South Italy / September

"Must" is too subjective, but this is what I might do: fly from Napoli to Sicilia and spend about half your time there. If this appeals to you, post again for details.

My "must" near Salerno is Paestum. If you can give a day and night to it, and like Greek temples, small museums, mozzarella farms and beaches.

Several nights on the Amalfi Coast, a few in Sorrento (for Popmei, Hercolaneum, perhaps Capri or Ischia. A half-day each in Capua (Roman arena) and in Cumae (ancient site of the Sybil).

In Napoli, definitely the Archeological Museum, among many other sights.

You can get to most places by bus and/or train, having a car in Napoli is a big pain, but it would be great to have in Sicilia.

Quiet spot in Roma: several, like the villas near the Galleria Borghese; but I like the Gianicolo across the Tevere, or the rose garden near Viale Aventino (if it's not open, go further up the hill to the terrace and little park near Santa Sabina church).

Are you talking about leaving THREE days from now?

Lavi,

As you'll be driving in Italy, I assume you're aware of the usual caveats......

It's important to note that for driving in Italy, each driver listed on the rental form must have the compulsory International Driver's Permit, which is used in conjunction with your home D.L. These are valid for one year, and easily obtained at any CAA/AAA office (two Passport-sized photos required, which may be provided by the issuing office). Failure to produce an IDP if requested can result in fines on the spot! Failure to pay the fines when requested may result in the rental car being impounded, and further charges for towing and storage. Have a look at https://it.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-services/local-resources-of-u-s-citizens/transportation-driving/ for more information on I.D.P's and driving in Italy.

You may also want to have a look at some of the other posts here concerning the dreaded Zona Traffico Limitato (limited traffic) areas that are becoming increasingly prevalent in many Italian towns & cities especially Florence, which is almost saturated with automated ZTL cameras. EACH PASS through one of the automated Cameras will result in a €100+ ticket, which you won't know about until several months after you return home! This website provides more information - http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/driving/traffic_cameras_speeding.htm

There's also the issue of parking tickets, high fuel costs, tolls and automated speed cameras including the devious Traffic Tutor system which measures not only instantaneous speed but also average between two points. Violate either or both parameter and expensive tickets will follow. You may also encounter automated fuel pumps that will only accept Chip & Pin credit cards.

A GPS along with a good Map would also be prudent. Be sure to give some thought to the question of CDW and theft insurance. In Italy, buying CDW from the rental firm is usually compulsory, so coverage provided by credit cards may not apply. Check the Car Rental section in Europe Through The Back Door for further information. You could also download the "Car Rental" PDF Guide from http://www.gemut.com/ (they have a toll free number if you have any questions).

You may find this recent thread an interesting read - https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/ztl-ticket-rome-over-1-year-later

Sicily is large and has wonderful sights tucked away in all parts of the island. You need to get hold of a comprehensive guide book and see what sounds intriguing to you. I spent 18 days there, traveling by train and (more often) bus, and it really wasn't enough time, despite skipping all the beaches and the Greek sites in the western half of the island. I think 10 days is painfully short, even if you have a car for part of the time. 2 or 3 weeks would be better.

I suspect your car rental company may not authorize you to take the car on the ferry.

To allow time for at least part of what you'll want to see on the mainland, consider Puglia + Matera rather than Sicily on this trip.

Thank you all for your insights! (and keep ‘em coming…)

Zoe: I’m renting a car from Naples, so flying to Sicily won’t be part of it…Paestum sounds great to me. I’ll check into your recommendations for Capua and Cumae (and Rome!).

Chani: (Shalom!) Yep :) I always like to keep a flexible itinerary, marking the beginning and the end and leaving the middle negotiable (Couchsurfing, random cultural events, staying put at a spot I find magical, etc.). I have an idea of spots I’d like to visit after Salerno (Lecce, Alberobello), but still feel I need more solid ideas for south Italy beyond Amalfi (not including Sicily), as it feels a bit ‘airy’ with no substantial points of interest. If I don’t find anything interesting to do in the south mainland, I’ll probably spend more time in Sicily as suggested by many members here (and from what I’ve read, Stromboli is something something, so now I know which volcano I’ll be hiking there).

Ken: Thanks for the great tips! Last year I traveled to northern Italy with an excursion to Tuscany. I also visited Cremona, capital of violins, and got 2 (!!!) ZTL tickets in the span of 10 minutes. The sign was a bit obscured and I was a bit distracted. I tried so hard to avoid ZTLs, and then I was hit by 2. Beware of Cremona!

Acraven: Yeah, reading your comment and others on the forum, it appears Sicily demands more attention than just 3-4 days. I’ll be sure to take that into consideration.

Re Puglia + Matera: where would you go there?

And a toss up: any vegetarian recommendations for south Italy / Rome? There are websites of course, but nothing beats first hand :)

If you decide to stay on the mainland, we drove from Naples to Puglia. We enjoyed Maratea which was south of Paestum. It's on a beautiful coastline, like an uncrowded Amalfi. We then drove to Matera, Lecce, Trani and around Puglia. We also don't plan ahead. We found this whole area an interesting choice. Sounds like Sicily warrents a chunk of time. There are always great vegetable options at most restaurants. Do you eat cheese? The buffalo mozzarella is amazing.

Lavi
Going to the middle (Matera) & Lecce area next year. Research Matera fascinating history of this place. Visiting Lecce and using it as a base for 3 days to explore the heel of Italy. Baroque architecture and influenced by the Greeks as well. Looks like a good 2.5 hours driving time to Matera. Maybe another possibility for you.

You can easily spend 2 weeks in Puglia and a day or two in Matera. Absolutely wonderful area of Italy. Monopoly, Polignano a mare, Martina Franco ,Ostuni, Alberobello, Bari Lecce. The list goes on and on. Enjoy

Also Gallipoli. And the Gargano Peninsula is scenic.

Having no car, I was thrilled to discover that the tourist office in Lecce puts together groups for day trips by van yo a lot of the surrounding towns. Many picturesque options, and a lot of the places are small enough that 2 hojrsmwill cover the town. A guide book will tell you which ones have trulli, which look Greek, which have significant churches, etc. That way you'll be able to put together a trip with a lot of variety. Matera is its own thing and a must if you are down in fhat part of Italy. And Lecce has lovely Baroque architecture.

Becky, Shelley, Joyce, acraven – your input is great. Sounds like I have my work cut out for me and I’ll see where the wind blows – either take it easy in the bottom of the boot and its surroundings, or hop over to Sicily for a week+- and skim past the boot. I actually think I can play around with it, as I have 21 full days before I return the car in Naples and head up to Rome. Ample time to enjoy most of what south Italy offers.

Re cheese, yeah I eat cheese, so buffalo mozzarella sounds potentially delish. Oh no, now I’m salivating :)

One last question for now - my aunt has asked me to bring over some 'good Italian spices'. Any recommendation of where I could get a pack of mixed spices, as authentic as they come?

For your aunt's spice concerns:

In late February/early March we stayed for 6 nights at a small apartment overlooking Rome's Campo de' Fiori market/piazza. That time of year, it certainly was 'chill', and quiet most of the time. Maybe not so much over the next few weeks--it still being high season--but besides the touristy stuff, there is a very, very good bulk spice blend vendor on the market daily that will shrink-wrap blends for you. I brought home a normal Italian blend, puttanesca, carbonara, and amatriciana. They are fabulous.

Even if you don't stay there, check these guys out.

Lavi, I meant that you see Napoli and then fly to Sicilia, rent a car for Sicilia, return it before you fly back (if the rental company doesn't permit taking the car to Sicilia), pick up the second car when you return to the mainland.

Jay - spot on!

Zoe - gotcha. I really hope the rental car company allows boarding to Sicily. Otherwise I'll just park on the mainland's side and use public transportation within Sicily...

Matera is fabulous and an as absolute must. Matera Been designated 2018 Cultural Capital of the EU. Be sure and read John Steinbeck's 1953 Harper's Bazaar essay "Driving to Positano. CLASSIC and has stood the test of time.

Have a blast! See you on the flip side!

Thank for the recommendation, sallymoxley :)