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Sorrento or Salerno or Positano - What is the best base to explore the Amalfi Coast?

Hello Everyone,
We have recently been relocated to Europe and have chosen Italy to be our first vacation destination. Here is the itinerary in short -

Dates - March 22 to March 29
Day 1 - Fly into Naples. Visit Pompeii and reach Sorrento.
Day 2- Take a SITA bus to A.C via Positano. Explore the coast and come back to the hotel in Sorrento.
Day 3 - Day trip to capri. back to the hotel in Sorrento.
Day 4 - Check out from Sorrento hotel, take the train to Naples and then to Rome. Reach Rome early afternoon. Sightseeing in Rome.
Day 5 - Vatican City.
Day 6 - Sightseeing in Rome.
Day 7 - Check out from Rome, take a train to Pisa. Sight seeing in Pisa.
Day 8 - Fly out from Pisa.

Questions -
1. Is a day trip to Capri worth in the month of March? Capri is the only reason we need to stay in Sorrento.
2. Would staying in Salerno make more sense if we are to skip Capri and explore only the A.C since it has a direct train to Rome? We can also think of covering Pasteum.
3. Is it worth spending a night at Positano or Amalfi? Given the itinerary, do you think it will be too aggressive?

I guess my only confusion right now is between Sorrento or Salerno. The ferries to Capri run only from Sorrento in March so it all boils down to whether visiting Capri in March is recommended or not.

Note:
We will be traveling with a 4 year old who is always excited about travel but this does seem a lot for a kid.

Posted by
2124 posts

My perspectives--

  1. We'll be staying in Sorrento in a couple weeks, and the daytrip to Capri is only a possibility, depending on weather, even though they say the ferries are running. Not a high priority for us. But over 5 nights we will be hanging around Sorrento, daytripping to Positano, Naples and maybe Ercolano. And best to plan for less than too much.

  2. We did base in Salerno two years ago for those same reasons you mention. It's a little city, very neat, the real non-touristy Italy. And yes, from the train/bus station you can go virtually anywhere. We liked it a lot.

  3. Positano or Amalfi in March can be beautiful without tourists, but a lot may still be shut down for the winter. But maybe that's a good thing.

I guess it's your choice here. We picked Sorrento because it had the most going on in early March than anyplace else on the peninsula.

Posted by
50 posts

Thank you Jay. I guess the last sentence in your reply clears my confusion a bit. We also don't like crowds but would like to stay in a little lively town in the evenings with a kid.

I think it makes sense to go with Sorrento and have Capri as an option at least. Salerno - may be next time :)

Btw, did you visit Capri during your last visit? What all did you cover staying in Salerno? do you mind sharing your hotel details in Sorrento for the current trip, I can do with some recommendations :)

Posted by
2124 posts

When we were in Salerno two years ago--just about this time of year in fact--the main reason we stayed there was because we did a genealogical daytrip about an hour SE of Salerno to the mountains to see the village where my great-great grandparents were born.

From Salerno, we also took a daytrip to Amalfi, which was about an hour by bus. Positano would've been another hour after a change of buses. As I stated, that time of year it's a little sleepy, but the scenery could not be beat and we loved it. Just don't know how great it would be to stay there in March, but I would definitely take it over staying there with tons of tourists about!

Also, besides exploring Salerno's Old Town on foot from our B&B, which was wonderful, we also daytripped it to Pompeii, about 45 minutes by train. Spent 4 hours, and are actually considering going back again on a daytrip from Sorrento. It's that good. But hire a guide, or do your homework because nothing is marked.

In Sorrento, we're staying near the Piazza Tasso square, which is supposed to be the liveliest area this time of year.

Posted by
15798 posts

I just left Salerno this morning, after 5 nights, for Rome. Several years ago I stayed in Sorrento in February to day trip to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples (archaeology museum). I haven't been to Capri.

The most scenic part of the Amalfi Coast is between Salerno (well, a few miles past the city) to Positano. You can get to Paestum by train or bus from Salerno. You can get to modern Pompeii from Salerno by train, then either walk or taxi to the ancient site. Pretty much all the shops, bars and restaurants were open in both Sorrento and Salerno. Prices are cheaper in Salerno, both for rooms and for food. Also, the old town of Sorrento is up on the hillside. There's an elevator from there down to the sea (and ferries) but in February it was closed. If it isn't working, then I guess it's stairs (lots) down and back up. I only got glimpses of the sea from the town. Salerno is at sea level. There's a wide, tree-lined promenade all along the shore and 2 short blocks up is a pedestrian mall with modern shops and a couple bars and cafes. There were hundreds of locals, all ages, walking up and down both strips all day. After sunset the sea promenade was pretty quiet, but there were lots of people out until late at night in the mall and the surrounding narrow, medieval streets, filled with open shops and restaurants.

I think there are more sights in Salerno - wonderful views from the castle, a beautiful duomo and not-to-be-missed crypt, several museums and other old churches.

Posted by
8077 posts

The OP's questions don't have absolutely cut-and-dried answers. For example, it sounds like (we slept 5 nights at the fancy Hotel Ambasciatori in Sorrento in May) Salerno is very attractive. But at a time of year when not all ferries run, and trips are less often, it is wrong to insist that Salerno is an equivalent TRANSIT POINT to Sorrento. I didn't think Sorrento was magical at all, but it is by far the best place to make quick decisions (looking at the sky, for example) about a daytrip. There is a big difference between a long-distance railroad that doesn't even stop near ancient Pompeii and a two or three per hour commuter railroad that stops right across the street from a huge entrance, Porta Marina, to Pompeii Scavi.

You go to the newsstand by the Circumvesuviana station, buy a transit ticket (train or bus, say bus to Positano) and hop on, validating your ticket. Busses were crowded and annoying in May. Maybe not so much in March. The Circumvesuviana is famous for crowding and annoying musicians asking for coins. But it delivers on the transportation. As it happens, Sorrento is much closer to Capri than is Salerno. I will also observe that denigrating Sorrento (I mean, as too touristy, package-toury, or Brit-touristy) is not too different from the shortcomings of Capri.

March is way off peak. I would hope for more specific replies about experiences in March. My own data reflect a time when the line for the bus to Positano was so long that all of the line would not fit on the next bus. (Don't forget that only half of them can see the one-side view of the water on the ride to Positano!)

I personally cannot imagine giving a day to Capri when there is only one full day in Rome! We didn't go to Sorrento until we had been to Rome (and other places in Italy) three times.

Posted by
50 posts

Thank you, Tim. Yes, if someone can share the experience of being on the Amalfi coast in March, it would be great.

Another option that is lingering in my head is -
Should we skip Capri and stay on the Amalfi Coast for a night?

Day 1 - Fly into Naples. Visit Pompeii and reach Sorrento.
Day 2- Take a SITA bus to A.C via Positano. Explore the coast and stay in Amalfi.
Day 3 - Go on a small hike/trail around A.C. Explore Positano in the evening and go back to Sorrento.
Day 4 - Leave Sorrento. Take the train to Rome from Naples.

We did not have much details when we booked the flights but now I do feel that A.C deserves a couple of days at least? If yes, why come back all the way to Sorrento on day 2. How wise an option it is to stay in Amalfi for a night? I understand we will need to hop hotels but am hoping it won't be a problem.

Staying in Sorrento will keep the option open for Capri and as you have mentioned, keeping options open at this time of the year is better. Am really confused, any help is appreciated.

Posted by
5 posts

I am going with a teen daughter in early April for 9 days and staying just in Rome, to see son at AUR, and Sorrento. I would say that the Blue Grotto (by boat) and Capri IN MARCH is going to be fairly bleak. I would skip. Instead, I would take an exciting thrill-ride bus tour down the Amalfi coast offered by Viator, etc..

Posted by
5319 posts

Day 1 - Fly into Naples. Visit Pompeii and reach Sorrento.
Day 2- Take a SITA bus to A.C via Positano. Explore the coast and stay in Amalfi.
Day 3 - Go on a small hike/trail around A.C. Explore Positano in the evening and go back to Sorrento.
Day 4 - Leave Sorrento. Take the train to Rome from Naples.

I don't see any reason to change hotels so many times. You could potentially stay in Amalfi all three nights. It is only a tad more cumbersome to get to versus Sorrento.

Posted by
50 posts

And how do I reach Naples from Amalfi early in the morning to catch a train to Rome? I read that there is a bus from Amalfi in the morning but does it run in March?

Posted by
5319 posts

"And how do I reach Naples from Amalfi early in the morning to catch a train to Rome? I read that there is a bus from Amalfi in the morning but does it run in March?"

From Amalfi, you can take a bus to Salerno and use the train station there. Not sure of the schedules, but you might try the SITA website.

Posted by
8077 posts

It does make more sense to use the Salerno station if you're going from Amalfi to Rome. I get the idea that you're a budget traveler, so it may be of no value to suggest a private car reservation for early departure from the A.C. But there's a reason people go to the AC and like it: It's ISOLATED. You can't have it both ways.

Posted by
2456 posts

I don't think anyone here has mentioned Ravello, which is a beautiful small town about a 30 minute bus ride, uphill and inland, from Amalfi. Beautiful estates with gardens, with views down onto the coast, plus restaurants, shops, ceramics workshops, etc. Not sure how open everything in Ravello would be in March. As I think about it, being based in Amalfi would allow easy travel to Positano, Ravello, and even the Salerno area, including the ceramics town of Vetri sul Mare and the wonderful Greek ruins and museum at Paestum.

Posted by
50 posts

Hello everyone,

Wanted to update you all on the final plan for the upcoming trip next week. After a lot of thought, we have decided to stay in Salerno :)

March 22 - 25
Day 1 - Fly into Naples. Visit Pompeii and reach Salerno.
Day 2- Take a SITA bus to A.C. Explore the coast and visit Ravello town. Stay overnight in a hotel in Amalfi.
Day 3 - Do a short part of the Path of Gods trail. Visit Positano late afternoon. Take a bus back to Salerno. Stay overnight in Salerno.
Day 4 - Take a direct train to Rome in the morning.

A few questions -
a) Is Ravello worth visiting in March? I guess the pictures we see online are of summers.

b) As of today, the weather for these dates is cloudy with occasional rains. Will we be able to do the Path of Gods trail in such a weather? We do not intend to do the entire trail but some part of it.

c) Any suggestions on things to do if the weather is not too good?

Thanks,
Komal