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Sorrento or Naples before Umbria Jazz?

We are first timers planning a two week 30th anniversary trip to Italy June 29-July 14, 2018. This trip is being planned around the opening weekend of the Umbria Jazz Festival because we are big jazz/music fans. While the festival dates have not been confirmed, we are fairly certain it will begin July 6, and so we will be in Perugia July 5-9. Seeing the ruins in Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the Naples Archeological Museum is important, and I would like to spend at least one day on Capri, if it makes sense.
Initially I was planning to make Sorrento our base for Naples because most travel forums say it is much nicer than Naples Metro. But the Pompeii, Herculaneum and Capri seem equally easily accessed from either location and traveling to Perugia from the city might take less time. We do not plan to rent a car for any of our trip if we can avoid it. We plan to use the trains a lot, but don't think we need a Europass.
Our itinerary so far:
Rome 3 nights (Fri-Mon)- arriving on Friday afternoon and doing the Vatican by Night tour
Naples 3 nights (Mon-Thu)- Rome to Pompeii to Sorrento day 1, Herculaneum Museum day 2, Capri day 3
Perugia 4 nights (Thu-Mon)-ballooning early Friday morning in Umbria (weather permitting) and the UJ festival
Florence/Tuscany 4 nights (Mon-Thu)

We are open to a small group tour in our first day in Naples to maximize our time, but are wondering if going it on our own is just as sensible. We also realize that July is high season for tourists, but that when the festival, and our annivesary is. We hope to mitigate the crowd issue with careful planning. We are ok with a fast pace on the first half of our trip, knowing that we will likely slow down in and after Perugia. We are also open to other iteneraries, and flexible with what we do, but Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Umbria dates are a must.
Thanks for your thoughts.

Posted by
11294 posts

No one is neutral about Naples - it inspires extreme reactions. If you have been to Italy before, and you like (or at least don't mind) Rome, Naples might be suitable. If you didn't like Rome or if you haven't been to Italy before, definitely stay in Sorrento and day trip into Naples.

My concern is that if you stay in Naples and hate it (and that's not too strong a word for how many feel about it), you'd be stuck - particularly since it's a busy time and you'd be very unlikely to be able to get an affordable room in Sorrento on short notice. If you find you like Naples, you can stay there on a subsequent trip.

Posted by
11613 posts

Disclaimer: I love Napoli.

If you stay in the Chiaia area, or near Piazza del PlebescIto, you might enjoy your stay there more than staying by the train station. Or check out Vomero, which is above the main part of the city, but it is more inconvenient for getting yo train/bus/ferry links.

Posted by
11294 posts

I see I forgot to put it in my initial response so it's not clear. I ended up liking Naples too. I always quote my Cadogan Guide on the subject: "The only thing subtle about Naples is its charm." It does get under your skin, but not before hitting you like a ton of bricks from all sides.

Even Palermo, which is often described in similar extreme terms, was not nearly as in-your-face as Naples. That high intensity is why I say that if it's your first trip to Italy, definitely stay somewhere else.

Posted by
3 posts

Wow. I didn't think of it that way. I figured being a Philly girl who spent a few summers in NYC, I could handle it. But it will be high tourist season, and if Napoli gives a New Yorker pause, I think I should stick with my original Sorrento plan. Just not sure we'll be able to see Pompeii, Ercolano, Capri and the museum in 3 days-perhaps we should try to see the museum enroute to Perugia? I have a feeling you both may have saved our trip and I really appreciate it!

Posted by
15798 posts

Can you switch Naples and Florence? Maybe even fly out of Naples? Naples will definitely be easier to take after more time in Italy. It's not all that bad, if you can avoid one or two neighborhoods. I happened accidentally to end up in one of the "worst" on my first evening there and it was definitely an "in your face" experience. Not bad, just "real" Italian life hitting you upside the head. I expect that Sorrento will be jam-packed with tourists in early July and not a very enjoyable experience anyway. I didn't quite love Naples but I certainly found it interesting and sometimes downright enjoyable. The food was great . . . and cheap. The metro is easy to navigate. And Rick's self-guided walking tour lets you see a lot of the positive that's in Naples.

Posted by
3 posts

That makes since except we would have to shorten our stay in Florence/Tuscany because we want to be in Perugia for the opening night of the Jazz Festival; the Perugia days are not flexible. Thanks for the advice though.