Sorrento and Amalfi Coast, here we come.

It has a time limit, 3 or 5 days, but there's a 5-site archaeology ticket that includes Oplontis.

In my opinion, it's unimportant whether you go to the Museum in Naples before or after the sites. Don't skip the Farnese Marbles in the same museum. Naples has a lot of history, but we only had half a day there. Look into whether you can stomach the Circumvesuviana.

The search function here will deliver lots of info on daytrips to the AC from Sorrento. Some outlying Sorrento hotels are heavily booked by bus trips, but that may not be an issue in April. We liked the high-priced luxury cliffside hotels in Sorrento, and stayed at the Ambasciatori, extra $ for Vesuvius view. This area books up solidly six months in advance. Make a list before you start trying to book.

Be prepared for lots of crowds everywhere. The last two weeks of April are very popular throughout Italy. Think Spring break from school, as well as a lot of Italian and other European tourists. April 25 and May 1 are major Italian holidays and people are out and about.
I would agree that it doesn’t matter if you go to Pompeii or the museum first, but there is much to see in Naples and you shouldn’t dismiss it.
I wouldn’t want to stay too far out of town unless you have your meals where you are staying.
I would split the time between Sorrento (or Naples) and a town on the Amalfi coast (Amalfi, Positano, etc.).

Be prepared for lots of crowds everywhere. The last two weeks of April are very popular throughout Italy.

I'm starting to think there might not be an off-season anymore. I'm in Rome now and it's very crowded.

Villa Cimbrone in Ravello was a definite wow for us.

We spent a full day at Pompeii. On another day, we spent a couple of hours at Herculaneum, followed by Oplontis and Stabiae. Definitely consider adding Stabiae.

We were there in April 2022, and had great weather, except for one drizzly day. Wish the same for you.

Archeological Museum in Naples. Before or After Pompeii?

IMO it makes more sense to go after Pompeii. But it will be good either way.

If you do spend any time in Naples, get pizza at Gino E Toto Sorbillo - waiting in line is worth it. The DOP Bufala Mozzarella was the best pizza i've ever had in my life. Also the place has a michelin star and it costs like 5-8 euro per pizza. You can't beat it!

We spent a full day at Pompeii. On another day, we spent a couple of
hours at Herculaneum, followed by Oplontis and Stabiae. Definitely
consider adding Stabiae.

Did you use a guide for your trip to Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae or do it on your own?

We loved staying right in Sorrento. Our hotel was on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples in the Villa Communale area. The sunsets over the Bay are gorgeous, and the lights of Naples in the distance look like jewels at night over the water. There is an elevator in the Villa Communale park that takes you down to the Marina where you can take a boat to Capri. The Centro Storico area nearby is charming and has great shops and restaurants and cafes. You will love Sorrento!

Did you use a guide for your trip to Herculaneum, Oplontis and Stabiae or do it on your own?

Allan - We hired a private guide through Askos Tours. It was around 400 Euros for the 2 of us, and worth every bit. We had a driver and a guide. Oplontis and Stabiae were so incredible, and so deserted, that I forget we also went to Herculaneum.

We went to Herculaneum first, and then Oplontis. After Oplontis, they dropped us off at a restaurant near the site for lunch. Nobody in the restaurant spoke English, but the guide walked in with us and spoke to the staff - on our behalf! Delicious food and impeccable service. That was the second best, and first cheapest, meal of our trip.

I don't often use the word "magical", but that's how I would describe Stabiae. Imagine having an ancient Roman villa all to yourself to explore with your very own guide. It was us, a security guard, and occasionally another person.

https://www.askostours.com/

With two full weeks in the area you will be able to do everything here and have plenty of relaxation besides. The accommodations question looms large for me. Staying at that place outside Sorrento sounds inconvenient. I imagine waiting for or planning around this shuttle bus will get old fast. If you were just lounging there all day sure, but you have plans! Also, with two weeks I would really look into splitting accommodations and staying some days in an Amalfi Coast town. It makes a big difference in your AC experience. Every night I stared at the endless traffic jam snaking it’s way past Amalfi and was grateful I didn’t have to deal with it. Plus, Sorrento is nice but imo in two weeks you’ll have probably eaten at every restaurant twice. A little variety would be a richer experience, you have enough time.

Highlights? A day in Naples, including the museum, is great. Don’t discount it. Ravello was perhaps my favorite place of them all. Capri is a touristy mess, but worth a day trip if you do it right. My morning in Anacapri and atop Monte Solaro are my favorite moments on the trip.

I’m pretty anti Path of the Gods, but you have enough days that I think it’s cool. Just be prepared, have good walking shoes, water, sunscreen etc. I do think it’s a stretch as a day trip from Sorrento though, unless you could hire a driver to get you to Bomerano fast and early.

Allan, is this a retirement trip? My husband is retiring early next year, so I was re-reading some old threads on this forum about retirement and one of your posts said you were going to retire on April 1, 2023.

I think my husband will give notice of retirement on March 17, 2023. Although, extended trips will not be possible for about 2 more years because of home front commitments. Sorry, guess I’m off topic, but we haven’t been to Amalfi or Sorrento, yet.

Allan, is this a retirement trip? My husband is retiring early next
year, so I was re-reading some old threads on this forum about
retirement and one of your posts said you were going to retire on
April 1, 2023.

Not quite yet. I finally gave my retirement notice this Fall, but left it open as "sometime" in 2024. I hinted that I may go see the Blue Jays in Spring Training in Dunedin, Florida in March 2024 and may not come back to work.

Allan, your early trip plan sounds wonderful, especially that you are allowing the time it takes to explore. My trip started in Rome, so I trained from there to Naples for a very brief day. My goal was the museum in Naples before touring Pompei. So, the Museum and a slice of pizza and I was off to Sorrento by Circumvesuvia train. I toured Pompei the following day - leaving from Sorrento. When I return to the area, I plan to give Naples more time.

For me, one of the highlights of that trip was a day on the island of Ischia at a thermal spa. If you enjoy relaxing like that, I suggest Ischia instead of Capri. I took a fast boat from the marina in Sorrento to Ischia. Let me know if you are interested and I will try and dig up more info for you.

Happy travels,
Linda

Linda, how did you find the train rides with luggage between Rome and Sorrento? We've got a direct flight to Rome and then we need to make our way to Sorrento. I'm wondering how challenging that will be after a 9 hour overnight flight. I've been checking car services, but prices are coming in at €550-600.

Most people book the Frecciarossa train service as far as Naples, which is faster than a car. But there is risk of missing your prepaid train because of transatlantic air travel. And you, usually, have to first take the Airport train to Termini in Rome. Then you take the gritty Circumvesuviana train in Naples, or a car service to Sorrento.

https://www.trenitalia.com/en/purchase.html

https://www.sorrentoinsider.com/en/naples-to-sorrento-train-schedule

Make sure you allow time to get to your flight home.

These may help with your research.

https://www.campaniartecard.it/campania-7-days/?lang=en

This card gives you 5 free sites. It will save $$. Use on Pompeii Scavi, Oplontis, Ercolano, Archeological museum, the Royal Palace
(Palazzo Reale) Caserta. Capodimonti, these are among the most expensive, plus many others Choose, then other sites are reduced price. Don’t download scroll down to 5 sites free. . Choose site for info.

https://www.italotreno.it/en The other high speed train.

https://www.travelmar.it/en/timetable-from-april-2023

https://www.ischiareview.com/things-to-see-in-ischia.html

https://www.ischiareview.com/things-to-do-in-ischia.html

https://www.ischiareview.com/getting-around-in-ischia.html

https://www.napoliunplugged.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Tariffe_taxi_2017.fixed rate taxied in Naples.

Path of the Gods for sure! Should also factor in a day to go over to Capri. I'll admit was initially one of those "oh, that whole thing looks like a tourist trap" types, but I'm so glad we went and especially glad we did the Blue Grotto!

One night for dinner from Sorrento (it's actually about 20 minutes up the hill from Sorrento in a little town called Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi), is a restaurant called Lo Stuzzichino, family-run, really great seafood and pasta, and well worth the effort to get there!

If you haven't booked a hotel yet, I suggest you book a place closer to town. If you're looking for a place to splurge for a couple of nights, check out Maison La Minervetta. One of the nicer places we've stayed in that area. The hotel service was top-notch and really friendly. They steered us to non-touristy restaurants, and even arranged with the restaurant referenced above to provide a free shuttle there and back for dinner!

You're gonna have a blast!

Allan, I don’t recall any problems with luggage on the trains from Rome and then the Circumvesuvia commuter train. I pack very light. Granted, my trip was at a much different time - September 2012 (my goodness, 10 years ago!!!). Time passes us by so fast. Our most precious asset is time. Use it wisely!

Thank you everyone for the information. Lots of homework this weekend to start prioritizing how to fill our days.

Allan, maybe check out having lunch in Atrani? Or Nocelle, if you do the Path of the Gods.
I am done. The end.

Path of Gods for sure! Unless you don't like to hike. But it was easy and gorgeous! But, I can't imagine doing the path of Gods from Sorrento. Definitely worth staying in one of the actual towns on the Amalfi coast. A great place to chill.

Allan, you might search for some past posts on the Circumvesuviana. We were the last week of May, not April. But the Circumvesuviana was as crowded as Times Square on New Years Eve. You don't have to lift your luggage, because it won't fit in the bus-sized overhead rack anyway. The problem is finding space on the floor within sight of your seat and without blocking doors or walkways. There are (hard to believe) strolling musicians to contend with, as well. It's not operated by the long distance train company, it's a local commuter service.

This is not possible at night, but the 99% paved walk back to Sorrento from Sant Agata Sui dui Golfi is quite scenic, 1.5 hours steep downhill. Don't wear sandals, because of the slope.

Allen, personal preference, probably, but I wouldn't stay anywhere so far outside of Sorrento that depended on a shuttle to get in and out of town. It is nice to be able to wander in and out at will, or stay as long or short at dinner without being as dependent on a transport schedule.

Capri: we enjoyed our treks about the island and wish we'd had time for more (had 2 nights there in an early October). Skipped the Blue Grotto and were never sorry we did. I don't know if it's the same now but even though it was very busy in the town centers of both Capri and Anacapri, we found quite a lot of breathing room away from those areas. What's unfortunate for you is that unless you stay on the island, you'll miss the golden hours before the day-trippers arrive and after they leave. The ferries do not operate after dark.

If you can't fly direct to Naples, there is a direct high speed train departing from Rome's FCO station at 9:38. Rest assured it's a train that never sells out.

Standing is forbidden on high speed trains, there are only reserved seats. I guess riding an high speed train isn't more or less Challenging that taking an intercontinental flight. Assuming, of course, you can all go up 3 narrow steps while carrying a suitcase.

Otherwise you'll have to ask some other passenger for help when getting on and off the train. Like thousands do every day, but packing light would make everything easier.

Be aware that April 25 and May 1 are both National Holidays in Italy.

Thanks for the warning about April 25th Dario. We will be in Sorrento that day and don't have specific plans yet. Do most things shut down that day?

I would stay right in the center of Sorrento. It is small, comfortable and has a lot of shops, restaurants.
WOW moments would be looking at Vesuvius across the Bay from our apartment all hours of the day.
We went go Pompeii from Sorrento on the commuter train.. There is a stop right at Pompeii so it’s very easy.
We did a day trip to the Amalfi Coast. Took a bus there, ferry back. We liked Ravello the best of the towns, awesome views, less crowded too.
It is the only place I would consider staying on the AC. Honestly, the AC did not attract us much at all except for Ravello. No interest in returning there.
We liked Naples a lot! We stayed in the Chiaia District near the water with nice hotels, good restaurants. We explored the city and, of course, had a pizza which was delicious.
Note: We like bring in the middle of big cities, urban environments.

We've been to the Amalfi Coast area twice since 2015, both times in late February/early March. It was fairly deserted on the coast itself, which was peachy keen for us. Once we based in Salerno, the other time in Sorrento. We've taken the SITA bus from Salerno to Amalfi & back, also from Sorrento to Positano and back. Great trans & dirt cheap, as is the Circumvesuviana. A real rogues' gallery during the day, don't ride it at night. But it's the best trans hands down from Sorrento to Naples or Pompei.

I thought Sorrento had, next to the variety in Rome, my favorite cuisine in all of Italy. Seafood, lemon, fresh. You will not run out of places to eat in 2 weeks, and will want to return again & again to your favorites.

We've booked Sersale Suites in Sorrento for the full 12 days. https://www.sersalesuites.it/ Our room has a balcony, but not an ocean view. It would have been nice but the cheapskate in me can't justify the added cost of a hotel with a Vesuvius view when we hardly spend time in our room on vacation.

My Mom gave us a generous cash gift for Christmas and asked us to spend it on a day to see something we really want to see. I was eyeing private guides for Pompeii, Herculaneum, etc, but having trouble find a good fit. I was eyeing one guide recommended in the RS guide but he wanted €820 cash and he wanted to set the time limits at each place we wanted to visit. No thanks. On the other end of the cash spectrum was the €20 Shared Tours also in the RS guide. But the timing doesn't work either. I'll think of something, after all, planning is as much fun as the trip.

On the other end of the cash spectrum was the €20 Shared Tours also in
the RS guide. But the timing doesn't work either. I'll think of
something, after all, planning is as much fun as the trip.

Allan--

Don't know whether this was mentioned upthread, but (at least in 2015) there are hawkers right by the Pompei Scavi entrance that will walk you around and hopefully provide some information for between 20-40 Euro. We did not choose one but it was an option for us. We had both our phones with the RS Pompei audio tour, and earbuds. It worked pretty well, and was free.

One caveat--Pompei is massive, more ruins since we were there 8 years ago. We allotted 4 hours, with a break in between where we sat by the open-air theater and had a picnic we had packed--it was awesome. At least then, that kind of thing was frowned upon for fear of visitors leaving trash & refuse, but we were clean & picked up. But watch the cobblestones and broken brick, not to turn an ankle.

Jay, we were in Pompeii in 2014 as a daytrip off of a cruiseship. The tour also included the Amalfi Coast and so we rushed to a lot of places but saw nothing. We will definitely meander through Pompeii this time. I am aware of the guides outside the gates-the Pompeii website even mentions them. It says to let the ticket person know you want a tour, and they'll point you in the right direction, but the site doesn't organize them. Waiting until we get there is plan B, but I'm wired to plan in advance,

We were hoping to see it and Herculaneum on the same day, but perfectly willing to add Herculaneum on a different day if it doesn't work out. The Shared Tours site has an 11:00 Pompeii tour, but that's awfully late in my mind. I contacted someone to ask if Pompeii had in/out privileges so we could get there early and then meet our guide outside and was told no. Then I contacted the tour company if I could meet them inside the gate and was also told no.

Personally, I would not spend two weeks in Sorrento. I would spend some nights in Amalfi or nearby. The Amalfi coast is different than Sorrento and we preferred it to Sorrento. Sorrento is very convenient for some day trips but we found a bit Disneyesque. It is a purpose built resort.
Things we loved:

Pompeii-we went on a group tour after we bought our tickets which was fine for us.
We hiked Mt Vesuvius which we enjoyed. We bought tickets for a tour at the Sorrento train station. Basically, it was a van that took us up further than cars could go and then we walked from there. We loved the views but walking in volcanic dirt is work.
We did the Path of the Gods from Amalfi one day. You can use the public bus. We took a bus down to Positano as well (no millions of steps that way) and then took ferry back to Amalfi. The ferry ride is gorgeous.
We loved our time in Ravello as well. It was a day trip from Amalfi. We actually walked back to Amalfi.

Beth, you have me intrigued about the walk from Ravello to Amalfi. When I look at it on Google Maps it appears you have to take that main coastal road back. Did you feel safe?

Walking from Ravello to Amalfi is down a steep walking path, no main road to worry about (just your knees!). Between Atrani and Amalfi there is a tunnel that also bypasses the main road.
The area is full of great hikes--there are a couple round trip ones out of Amalfi that offer nice shade. My favorite was Minori to Amalfi (path of the lemons). I did not get to Path of the Gods. Two books describe all of the hikes, available on Amazon.

Make sure you allow for walking time (uphill back to Circumvesuviana) at Herculaneum. It's not beside the station, as is Pompeii Scavi. Also, Herc has no food, and the restaurants in town are only open "meal hours." (And are "slow food.") Perhaps Oplontis pairs better with Pompeii the same day. But if it turns out to be hot and sunny, you may not want a second attraction after 4-8 hours at Pompeii. (Oplontis is not an unimportant place, it's loaded with monuments of art history. But it is physically much smaller. It also has better sun protection than either of the two biggies.)

If you can find the starting point, there is a nice 98% paved, steep downhill walk from Sant' Agata sui dui Golfi (SITA bus from across from the Sorrento train station) to Sorrento, 1.5 hours and scenic, including some lemon trees. Convent with views (limited hours) in Sant' Agata. Do not wear sandals to walk downhill for 1.5 hours.

We took the route described above. It was through farms and down many steps. We then literally walked through a restaurant in Atrani to a tunnel that took us back to Amalfi. We had taken a very crowded bus and elected to walk rather than replay it. It was July so hopefully it would be less crowded in April.

There are lots of hikes in the area. On a Sunday we took a hike from Amalfi to another town whose name I can’t recall. We ran into some other hikers who encouraged us to go all the way and then take a bus back. The Sunday part is relevant because while things were open in touristic Amalfi, almost nothing was in this town. We never did figure out the bus and ended up walking down another set of steps back to Amalfi!!

Allan,

I’ve not visited the Amafi Coast (yet)
but have a rough itinerary for a future trip.

If you have time, consider visiting Paestum.

You may be inspired by Zoe’s trip report: Paestum

Wishing you a wonderful trip, and looking forward to reading your report!

Edited to add:
You may also enjoy reading these reports by Zoe:

-Napoli (2016)

-Napoli (2017)

Path of Lemons=between Minori & Maori
I am done. the root

I've been looking at that lemon trail, thanks for the tip.