With only 8 or 9 days, your idea of sticking to either northwestern or south eastern Sicily is a good one. Allowing time for than a cursory glance at anything takes more time than you think it will. The good news is food, walks and sites are all over Sicily. Do the RS-suggested itineraries seem about right or too fast? Your travel style will make a difference in how much you can accomplish. Figure at least 1/2 a day to be used up on arrival and departure day. For changing base cities, I'd have to allow essentially a full day to leave one and go to the other, settle in and eat. Is the horse riding something you could do where you live? Maybe you could substitute something you can't see at home for that activity. Depending on what you actually want to see in and from Palermo (Cefalu, Monreale, Trapani, Erice?), realistically you could easily fill 3-4 days, if not more, allowing 1/2 to one day for each and a couple in Palermo. Since you're looking for good food, don't count on quick meals anywhere, except for the market in Palermo. Eating in a restaurant will slow you down wherever you are. Same thing for Syracusa. Catania could fill one day as a side trip. Mt. Etna, a vineyard and/or the train is another day. You mentioned Noto. Adding another small town near there, and you've got a full day. What sort of ruins experience are you looking for? Getting to and visiting either of the major sites for that will fill a day, too. I'm sure you get my point here. With a short time, maybe looking at it the RS way -- "plan to come back" would be your best approach for this trip.
