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Sicily Time Management

For mid-October of next year--6 nights on the east coast of Sicily before train, train/ferry, train to Salerno (2 nights), then train to Rome, 6 nights there. I pretty much know the lay of the land in Salerno & Rome, but it's in Sicily I really want to do the right thing. And I know that for maximum efficiency I should get a car. That's not going to happen this time--this is our 4th trip to Italy and I haven't driven yet; to me the possibility of a slew of ZTL tickets and/or a car break-in is a risk I'm not willing to accept.

Taormina was our first sight on our first trip to Italy, in 2010 on our 30th anniversary. It was magical, holds a special spot, and is our choice to base for our time on the island, even though Taormina is not really representative of Sicily itself. We have our eye on any number of picturesque AirBnB's, and we have a solid guide company I used in 2010, Sicily Life, that will handle driving, pick-ups, let-offs, and tours, either their own or one I'd customize. They aren't cheap, but it's total peace of mind. Good people. In the past with them we did the Godfather Tour to the movie sites in the ancient villages of Savoca, Forza D'Agro & Castelmola. That was fun, cool, but I don't need to do it again.

When basing in Rome for a week or more, I like to have a list of 'possibilities' but unless necessary for admittance, I like to let the flavor of the day dictate what we do. In Taormina, however, with a guide, advance plans to a certain extent need to be made. I like the sound of a gastro/wine tour on the slopes of Etna--we may book that. In contrast, a daytrip to Palermo (3 hrs each way) or to Malta (forget about it!) are not feasible. Sicily Life does offer a baroque tour of Noto, Modica & Ragusa, which is a maybe.

But I've been reading old posts by the forum's dear-departed Zoe (organized by Priscilla, thank you!) and Siracusa and her favorite--Isola di Ortigia--stick out to me. It's only a 90-minute ride from Taormina, and might be the ticket.

Any other ideas in east or southeast Sicily for an interesting daytrip or two? Happy Holidays to the most informative and least-snarky forum in travel!

Posted by
16650 posts

Jay!!!! Gosh, I sure wish I had ideas to offer - Sicily is still The Great Unknown to me - but I'm so happy for you that you've got this trip waiting in the wings! It will be lots of fun to read the suggestions from RS community folks who know SE Sicily well. Were she still with us, our Zoe would be overjoyed...

Happy Holidays!

Posted by
2825 posts

Why don’t you do three nights in Ortigia and three nights in Taormina? You could do as a day trip but seems preferable to not. From Siracusa you could even take a day trip to Noto, one of the baroque towns.

We are going to Sicily in May and will not rent a car until we leave Siracusa. The east coast seems very doable by public transportation.

Posted by
2108 posts

We are going to Sicily in May and will not rent a car until we leave
Siracusa. The east coast seems very doable by public transportation.

Yeah, Beth, that train line along the east coast looks dependable with frequent trains. And the train station in Siracusa looks to be situated centrally as well, easy to get over to Ortigia.

Posted by
7234 posts

We had a rental car our entire couple week trip back in 2018. I felt the ZTLs were well marked and I received no tickets. No car break in either. There are steps you can take to help minimize having a vehicle broken into, such as, leaving nothing in sight inside the car, park in populated areas, back in if possible leaving no room to be able to open the back end, and not opening the trunk/hatchback after parking to allow other to know there is stuff in there.

Siracusa is good for a couple days as is Taormina (if there are no cruise ships in port). We enjoyed going over to Noto for a few hours and with a car Villa Romana Casale could be a day trip. Since you’ve already been to Taormina, maybe Ragusa or Modica would work.

Posted by
733 posts

Yes, a visit to Siracusa and Ortygia are very worth your time. A daytrip is doable but there is so much to see and do there that an overnight or two in Ortygia is preferable. You could go by bus or train. Closer to Taormina here are a few ideas I can suggest. I very much admire the artistry and beauty of the traditional Sicilian carts. When I was in Taormina there was a display of them at the old church (now converted into an exhibition hall) Chiesa del Carmine near the Piazza Duomo and Porta Catania. The collection came from Trecastagni . The website of that collection, a facebook page, has not been updated for a few years so not sure if they still bring the carts for display to Taormina, but ask while there. Apparently it had been brought to Taormina for display on several occasions, at least before covid. If that kind of thing interests you there is an Italian cart museum in Bronte which is not too far away. The name is Museo del Carretto Siciliano “Gullotti” and it has good reviews. They have a website SIcilian cart museum in Bronte.

As you go down the coastal road towards Catania stop by Aci Trezza to see the Rocks of the Cyclops. If you get to Nicolosi, we enjoyed a good meal at L'osteria del Siciliano.

Posted by
693 posts

So Jay, you think you're so cool and....ohwait 'least snarky'. Sorry, thought it said 'most snarky' would get the reward. Never mind.

Would def not short-change Ortigia. Its one of those places with a j'en sais quoi' atmosphere that just works for most everyone. We loved it. Maybe check out the fish market? Sunrise strolls? Passegiata? Perhaps seek out raw sea urchin (Zebec, they're all 'raw'---editor) from the harbor areas. There's a very good couples massage near the bridge.

*Noto has a contender for 'Finest gelato on the Planet.' Better than the Bourdain-endorsed competitor nearby.
I am done. the end.

Posted by
2108 posts

So Jay, you think you're so cool and....ohwait 'least snarky'. Sorry,
thought it said 'most snarky' would get the reward. Never mind.

See what happens when I try to be nice?!

All kidding aside, Gregg, this is a group that's unlike any online forum I've seen. Chronically nice to the newbies, even those with simple(ton) questions. The info gotten here is critical to the do-it-yourself planner/traveler, with little kernels from personal experience, not generic like a tour book or website. This place has helped me shape every Italy trip I've taken. And I'm thankful for it!

Posted by
2191 posts

I agree with the others about Ortigia. It’s a great little town, easily worth 3 of your days. And to prevent backtracking I’d visit Ortigia first. Then Taormina. Then catch your train.

Posted by
11645 posts

We spent a wonderful week in Ortigia. As far as Taormina, we spent two nights there and were happy to leave. It was so packed with tourists, grid locked! Beautiful views though.

Posted by
2108 posts

We spent a wonderful week in Ortigia. As far as Taormina, we spent two
nights there and were happy to leave. It was so packed with tourists,
grid locked! Beautiful views though.

What time of year was that, Suki? And what year? We last did Taormina mid-October in 2010, and it was not-unpleasantly crowded then. We're doing the same timeframe in 2023, and I heard this last October Italy-wide had 30-50% more tourists than pre-Covid. Taormina's Corso Umberto is a spectacular stroll, but teeming with tourists, maybe not!

Posted by
1048 posts

Ortigia is an absolute gem, with my favorite piazza in Europe. You’ll want to spend a night or two there at least (the passegiata seems to go past midnight.) There are some worthwhile sights there as well. Spend a day at the archeological park and the excellent Museo Paulo di Orsi.