Sicily & Rome Planning Spring 2015?

We visited Sicily for a week in December 2012, and flew a cheap easyJet flight from Rome to Palermo. This was a quickie trip, on the move, wth lots of 1-night stays except for our agriturismo in the Madonie National Park over Christmas. We stayed in Erice and loved it, although the nearby town of Valderice had what might be the best butcher shop in the world, and while it's probably not big on a list of must-see tourist sites, it's probably a great place to live, and might be a good base. Not sure what the lodging options are in Valderice. Leaving Erice the next day, we passed thru Trapani, and it's a bigger town and flatter than Erice, so might be an easier base.

We used the Lonely Planet Sicily guidebook for most of our lodging on the go, and the recommendations were excellent.

Caltagirone could be a base more to the east, or Modica (wish we'd had at least a 2nd night there), or Siracusa/Ortigia. We stayed up in the old town of Agrigento one night, and while we haven't had problems with drinking water in Europe, despite being told previously in southern Spain that the local water wasn't fit to drink (a way of selling bottled water?), it was stressed at our hotel that the downtown water was bad, so we used bottled water to brush our teeth. They said the water lower down, in the surrounding town, was safe and fine, but they cautioned us against drinking the water up high in the old town. One night for us, no big deal, but what do they boil their pasta in?

I presume you're renting a car. Get the absolutely smallest car you can that will fit you and your luggage. In Sicilian towns, the streets are extremely narrow, twisty, and parking is at a premuim. Smaller is better.

After Sicily, we were in Sorrento for New Year's. A local chef said if he was visitng the Sorrento-Amalfi area (it's not Sicily, I know, but for what it's worth) he would pick April as the ideal time of the year - less crowded but nice weather. Considering how hot I imagine Sicily is in the summer, April could be more comfortable than May, but I can't tell you about water temperature.

For your flights: if you are using dollars rather than miles to buy the ticket, book it from Boston to Palermo or Catania, and then from Rome to Boston, all on one ticket (called "open jaw," or "multi city" on booking sites). This way, you're "protected" if your first flight is delayed, since they'll put you on the next available flight at no charge. I see that you read my trip report (which I will try to finish soon, BTW), so you know that I used separate tickets between Rome and Sicily. I only did this because I was using miles.

If you do book a ticket on Alitalia, you can enter your Delta FF number as part of the booking process on Alitalia's website (I did, and got credit for the flights FCO to PMO and CTA to FCO). And if you are booking a domestic Alitalia ticket, be sure to use their International site with the English language option; it shows much cheaper prices than the US site. Do book the domestic tickets as soon as you know your plans; my friend got a ~€50 fare, while I had to pay ~€75 just a day later, because the cheaper ones had sold out.

Trains and buses within Italy cost same year-round. I don't know about water temperatures, but I got the impression that April and early May, when I was there, was a bit too early for swimming. We did have lovely temperatures when we were there, but of course that's no guarantee of what you'll get next year.

I've been to Italy a number of times and Sicily Twice, and I have friends who live there. I'd vote for a May trip, since April can be unpredictable still. I was in Rome for Easter two years ago (week of April 10), and it was cold and raining sideways -- we froze. While this is not exactly 'normal' April weather, it's not that uncommon either. If your first destination is Sicily, I'd book a direct flight on Alitalia -- the fewer stops the better IMHO. The previous posters have better advice than I have re using DAL miles.

I've always rented apartments for stays longer than three nights, and on the East side of Sicily, Taormina makes an excellent base. Taormina has the Greek Theatre, incredible views of the Med., and is close to Mt. Etna, Messina, Catania, and Syracuse for touring. I rented through: legendofsicily.com He has a big inventory of apartments and even a villa or so. Some apartments also have the use of a pool. Contact name: Claudio Puglisi. We saved lots of $$ renting an apartment, and Taormina is chock full of excellent restaurants, pubs and the shopping is fantastic in all price ranges from the trinkets to the Very High End Designers.

The water will not be warm enough for swimming in either April or May in my opinion. (even late Aug/Sept) The Med is always cold!! At least to me, but the seaside cafes down in Isola Bella (take the ski-like tram from Taormina down) will all be open and you can certainly enjoy sunning! I've not yet done the West side of Sicily, so I would take advantage of the others expertise on this,

Thank for your tremendous imput. This is helpful for me to review airfares/schedules, and do a little more research.
The order of how I plan: I book the Air, then the lodgings, then the car, then any special tours or excursions if necessary.

Car rental: On the west side and to go south and back up and over to the west, we think a car will best serve us. On the other side we're thinking of using the trains and local buses along with any guided tours we book, and not use a car.

I think you're on the right track. Our next trip we're renting a car for the west side. You can return the car in Catania, and from there see most of the East side via tours. I absolutely loved the tours we got (twice with two different groups of friends) via legendofsicily.com We enjoyed touring Taormina by ourselves, but used them to get to Etna, a lovely vineyard, and Syracuse. Well worth the money, and we did NOT want a car on the East side, which is different than the West. You will NOT want a car in Palermo, either. We stayed in Palace Centrale Hotel in Palermo and loved that Grand Old Dam, a little worn, but so very elegant and in the center of all the sites of Palermo. Next time we'll enjoy Palermo for a few days, then taxi to Palermo airport and pick up the rental car and return it in Catania after we've seen Agrigento and all of those other sites.

My 21yo daughter and I spent a week in Sicily last May (arriving May 21) and loved it; we flew into Catania and took the bus to Agrigento where we spent 2 nights, then rented a car for one day to drive via the Villa Romana del Casale to see the fabulous mosaics then on to Syracuse where we stayed 5 nights in the old city of Ortigia. We were very focused on the ancient Roman/Greek sights; if I were doing it on my own i'd have gone for a bit more variety, and your plan of splitting your 10-11 days into two bases sounds good. But we had a great trip. We very much wanted to see a play in the ancient Greek theater in Syracuse; if that's of interest to you Google "Syracuse Greek theater" to find out when their season begins. It's in Italian but we saw Oedipus the King and were familiar enough with the plot that we had no trouble following. The production was a bit odd, but interesting. And we loved being in the theater where Aeschylus had performed.

No one said anything about bad water in the old town of Agrigento so we drank it and brushed teeth with it and had no problems at all. In fact we drank tap water throughout our time in Sicily.

Have a great trip1

I agree that the sea water will be too cold for swimming in either month, though you may be a hardier type than I. Most lodgings with pools don't open them until May. You should also be aware of the April 25 - May 1 holiday period (Liberation Day and Labor Day). Almost all Italians have those days off, so many take the intervening days and go on vacations then. I would get reservations as soon as possible, if you plan to be in any kind of resort area, like Taormina, at that time.

Regarding your Delta versus Alitalia question: I would book whatever is cheapest since the airline with which you book is not necessarily the airline on which you'll fly. Delta and Alitalia fly code shares. So my last trip from sfo to Italy, which was booked through Delta, did not involve one Delta flight. Most of my flights were on Alitalia.

Looks like you've had some good advice. Happy planning!

Thanks for checking in Laura and for the additional posters since I was here.

We've decided on May and Alitalia. Thursday night(July24), I put in departure BOS-FCO-PMO, return FCO-BOS. The price difference went up $700.00 since Monday. Monday (July25) I did a morning entry that was just BOS-FCO, FCO-BOS.
*I don't believe it costs $700.00 to go from Rome to Sicily if so I think we're swimming there!
My plan is to book the air tickets before August 1st. Does anyone have imput as to why the cost would be that different?

We just returned from a vacation in Calabria. We took a trip to Sicilty to the amazing town of Taormina. It is definitely a must see if possible. We took the train from Messina after crossing on the ferry.
Places in Italy which we have enjoyed immensely and the Amalfi coast by boat from Sorrento and staying at Positano. In the north Cinque Terre staying at Riomagiore.

Thanks for train tip to Messina. We don't have our bas yet for that side of Sicily but
will definitely use the train/bus sytsem along with tours to travel about.
Glad you had a great travel!

Update: Travel will be in May for 16 nights; Sicily & Rome, Sicily12N-Rome 4N.
We have traveled to Rome before but never Sicily.

Airfare booked w/Alitalia, non-stop BOS-FCO/FCO-PMO.
Lodging: Trapani 5N apartment rental; Agrigento 1N at Colleverde Park Hotel (panoramic view room).
East Coast lodging TBD: Still researching places. Villa prices higher than I thought (1200-1500 euros).
Car Rental # days TBD: Use Hertz

Itinerary so far: Trapani base 5 Nights

D1 Monday Arrival Palmero 410pm. Transfer to Trapani apartment.

D2 Trapani

D3 Guided Tour of Palmero w/visit to Monreael Cathedral

D4 Guided tour of a Marsala Winery, Wine tasting, and Lunch.

D5 Erice/Trapani OR switch Days 4 & 5 if we use a Rental Car for Marsala.

Need suggestions as follows:
1. Is above 5 days doable without a rental car? Thinking we only need a car to go to Marsala if we don’t go with a tour.

1. Best transfer from PMO airport to Trapani w/o renting a car on arrival day? At this point on arrival travel we’ll be popped, so money well spent is okay for us.

2. Recommendation of a private guide or local tour company for Palmero & Monreale Cathedral?

3. Recommendation of a Marsala Winery: Guided tour day or Rent a Car and DIY
   Reservation Arrangement?

Remaining Itinerary
Agrigento 1 Night
D6 Saturday: Pick up Rental car. Drive to Agrigento. Afternoon for ancient sites.

East Coast Base 6 Nights TBD: Acireale, Catania, something with an ocean view.

D7 Sunday: Drive to Villa Romana Casale. Visit. Drive East. Depending on time visit WWII museum in Catania. Continue driving to lodging.

D8-D12: Catania: WWII museum if didn’t see yet. Messina: Husband’s ancestry research; Siracusa: Guided tour of Archealogical Park; Mt Enna: Guided tour with a winery lunch; free Day(s) without a schedule.

Researching legendsofsicily.com and others for tour options on the east coast. We want to use tours and public transportation and not fuss with a rental car.

Rome 4 Nights Lodging TBD
D 13: Saturday, Fly from CTA 1135am- FCO 1255pm arrival

D 17 Wednesday, Fly home non-stop Alitalia FCO-BOS.

We were torn between 2nights for a Siracusa base area and give the remaining nights for an east coast base but decided that we only wanted to pack/unpack once more since we're also are staying over in Rome.

Hi again Diane- looks like things are shaping up and you're getting set for a great trip with lots to see and do. Since we had our Europcar rental from the moment we landed at the Palermo airport until we drove it onto the ferry at Messina, bound for the Italian mainland, and since we didn't hire any private guides during our visit, I'm afraid I can't offer much there. You may know, though, that you can ride the cable gondola up from Trapani to Erice, but you'll still have some uphill and downhill walking to do once you arrive in Erice. For the rest of the West, make sure you have all the train and/or bus schedules so you know your transportation options. BTW, be sure to see the Greek temple at Segesta, between Palermo and Trapani -- Cheers!

You can't beat the sea views in the apartments at Legendofsicily.com I've rented from them three times. Just make sure he knows you want a sea view, and this early, you'll be sure to get it. The views from Taormina are SPECTACULAR! They drove us all over the East side, including all the way to Siracusa. I have friends there right now and they're loving it.
For the East side of Sicily, I'd highly recommend using Taormina as a base. You can get so many places from there, either by private guide or train. If you're departing from Palermo to the U.S., there's a travel agent in town in Taormina, and you can buy your train ticket there. The woman speaks perfect English, and I think we only paid @eu30 for our tickets.

I honestly do not know about the West side. I'm doing that next year. You can PM Zoe. She's done the West side quite completely, I believe.

I'm a former DAL employee, and yes, they ARE in a codeshare w/Alitalia, and there is a direct flight from BOS/FCO. You can use your DAL skymiles. With a tall husband, DO get the economy comfort seats.

I usually only pay around EU40 to fly Alitalia to either Palermo or Catania. Palermo is slightly less expensive (and no airline discount for me) However, if your Sicily trip is ending in Taormina on the East side, there's an easy bus to the Catania airport. You can buy a ticket INTO Palermo from Rome and OUT of Catania on Alitalia.

RE Swimming in the Med: Biggest dream travel disappointment of my life! LOL! I've been to the Med in Spain, far South in August, and in Sicily in August/Sept, and in my Opinion, it's simply Never warm enough for swimming! She's a turquois blue beauty, though!

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. P.S. if Zoe recommends a "home base" on the West side, I'd love it if you'd share!

Donna, is that your review on legendofsicily? I read it. I can't find a tab that accesses lodging available. Could you send me the link or email for Claudio.
I found a Claudio Byron, is that him?

We do have EC plus seats both ways. Once I finalize our east coast base I can
look further into the tours and local transportation.

We're flying from (CTA) Catania to (FC0) Rome. Thanks for the tip on how to get to the airport.

East Coast:

So we'd like a place for 2 people, and will take a 2 bedroom if necessary. We'd ike a view of the sea, a private terrace/balcony, a pool would be nice, short access to the bus stop or where we can take a taxi to public transportation.

I just sent you my email via Private Message. I don't know what's wrong with the website that you can't access lodgings! Maybe that "Sun issue" that's been in the news? If you email me, I'll figure out how to connect him with you or you with him. My email is acting a little funny today too! He gets clients from all over the world and won a Trip Advisor award last year, and I can see why.

http://www.legendofsicily.com/usa/apartments_villas_rental_sicily.htm

Wow, it took a few tries, but I got it! Villa de Mare is where we stayed the first time, but it has 60 steps up to enter the villa!!
The next time, we stayed up in the town. Took the Funicula to the Sea when we wanted to go down, but we always had a view.

Donna, thanks for the extended information. Finally, I was able to access the lodging and located the e-mail. We are looking at that same villa. It's just 2 of us so going to check this all out w/ them. We're looking at 6N/5 full days which gives us days for tours and free days. You've been a tremendous help.

Don't forget those 65 stairs!!! The views from the rooftop are amazing, but it's a three story villa! We loved it, but I'm not that young (63) anymore! LOL!

Sending another Private Message. Sorry, but my email is 'broken' I can receive emails but cannot send emails. So please look!

Ok, I have everything now. Thank you Donna you've been so helpful.

Update on our trip with a confirmed Itinerary for 17 N/18D: May 10- May 27, 2015: Sicily and Rome.
This is our first time to Sicily, and 2nd visit to Rome. Our first Rome travel was October 2000. So this is opposite seasons and 15 years later!
Air travel by Alitalia, we secured Economy Plus seats.
May 10: Fly BOS-FCO/FCO-PMO
Overnights: Trapania, Agrigento,Taormina, Rome
May 23: FLY CAT-FCO
May 27: Fly FCO-BOS

Lodgings booked:
5N Trapania- Apartment by the Sea on Via Nausica (Trip Advisor);
1N Agrigento -Colleverde Park Hotel (Agrigento website);
6N Taormina- Apartment on Fontana Vecchia Street (Legend of Sicily)
4N Rome- Hotel Portoghesi (Rick Steves)
Cost average for Sicily was $130pn so I upgraded us in Rome to a suite in the Pantheon area.

Questions?
1. What is the best way to transfer from Palmero Airport to Trapani? We are trying to avoid a rental car for the first few days.

1. Does anyone have the names of companies for a half day or full day guided tour of Palmero highlights, perhaps with a stop in Monreale?

2. Would anyone have suggestions of places for a winery tour, wine tasting and lunch in the Marsala area?

3. Best company for a car rental in Sicily?

Itinerary Questions?
1. Friday, May 15 last day in Trapania: We’re thinking to rent a car for 3 days. Today we’d visit Marsala. Then have the car for two more days. We’d use it to travel down to Agrigento on the 16th. Then use it one last day to move to Taormina on the 17th. Is this a good use of our time when Trapani is our base?

1. Saturday, May 16 to Agrigento. Our thought was to arrive at Agrigento early enough to have time to see the Temples before evening dinner on the 16th. We have only 1 night here. If we wait until the next day to tour the Temples, it seems we’d leave Agrigento too late to enjoy the ride/stops enroute to Taormina?

2. Sunday, May 17 to Taormina. We like to go to early Mass then head out. We are undecided about seeing Villa Romana del Casale/Piazza Armenia. If so, how much time should we allow for our visit there? Any ideas for lunch here?

Is Enna worth a stop or another town/area to stop for a picnic lunch for hillside views of Mt Etna and countryside?

We’d like to stop in Catania to visit the WWII musuem before ending in Taormina and dropping off the car. Musuem closes at 5pm. Or would dropping the car in Catania be a good idea then take a train/bus to Taormina?

You may want to keep the car in Taormina, you can drive partway up to Etna. My friends and I did this a couple of years ago and drove through lava fields.

Zoe, what an great experience! Sounds adventurous for me but DH will likely want a guided tour if we consider Etna. On this side of Sicily we'd like to use trains, buses, guided tours, and time to soak just being there.

I'm not locating enough infornmation for the Marsala area wineries so I'll keep researching on the internet. From Trapania we'll go to Palmero and spend quality time in Trapania and Erice. The first day is taken up by arrival and transferring so we have 4 full days.

This is our first experience in Europe with renting versus staying in all hotels. We hope to just kick back a bit, stroll, take in the local vib, buy foods from markets and make some simple meals, plus eat out.