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Sicily, Mount Etna eruptions, and RS Sicily tours

Just got back from the Sicily tour, and wanted to let some of you know the impact of current (February 22, 2019) activity of Mt Etna on flying. Mt Etna has been spewing ash for several days which was going directly over the city of Catania and the airport there. They can't fly planes through the ash plumes. Many of not all flights were being cancelled out of Catania (where the RS tour ends). Our flight was cancelled the night before (not the last minute) but we found the airlines (Delta through whom we booked) and Alitalia (the flight operator) to be unable to help over the phone, and referred us to the overwhelmed and undermanned help desk at the airport.

The airlines on on the previous day were extremely busy, and busing people down to Siracusa, where I assume there is a small airport. Until that airport closed too. On our travel day (yesterday the 22nd), after waiting in a heartbreakingly long line at the Catania airport for help, we were re-booked on flight out of Palermo, but on our own expense to get there. That meant either a 13.5€ per person bus ride (>3 hours to Palermo train station) from the Catania airport, or a 340€ taxi ride to Palermo airport (Punta Raisa - be specific if you have to do this). There were four of us so we took the taxi, or we would not have made our new flight on time. It was worth it.

We made it home, and are still smiling about our wonderful Sicily tour, so alls well that ends well. However I wanted to warn folks who might be going on the tour soon that it might be a little more complicated than expected. I am confident that the RS folks will be monitoring and advising folks appropriately, so I wouldn't suggest changing plans or worrying about it too much based on this temporary situation. The tour was great even with this happening. And the views of Etna are worth it. Not dangerous - just a bit of bother.

Posted by
2375 posts

Interesting.
This current ash situation hasn't been in the news, but the eruption a while back was. I was on that tour last March, I think flight interruptions due to Etna are rare. I guess one could make arrangements to fly out of Palermo as a matter of course, but that wouldn't negate the need to take a 3 hour bus ride.

Travel is an adventure sometimes, glad things worked out, and a little jealous that you saw Etna in action.

Posted by
8440 posts

Liz, yes we took it in stride, and it actually added to the experience - some independent travel. We had interesting interaction with our taxi driver, and saw parts of Sicily very different from what was on the tour.

Posted by
11156 posts

Quite an experience! CTA is a challenge without problems, totally chaotic. PMO is much better. Glad you got home and had a tour of Sicily's countryside as well.
We spent a week in Ortigia, Siracusa in October and don’t think there is any airport there rather a helicopter pad.

Posted by
8440 posts

follow up: I heard from a couple of other members of our group that did get out on flights later that evening. All depends on which way the wind is blowing.

Posted by
115 posts

Hey Stan! Our family also did the great race across Sicily to get to Palermo to get to our connecting flight in Rome the next day. Gabe thought it was great fun. Our taxi driver was doing minimum 85mph (according to our conversions) and sometimes had no hands on the wheel while gesturing with his hands. Glad to hear you all got back home. The tour was amazing and totally worth Mama Etna being a bit naugtly. She sure made some amazing pictures! All the best- Kristin

Posted by
8440 posts

Hi Kristin. We saw two other pairs from the tour at the Palermo airport who had made the flying taxi ride as well - Linda and David, and Diane and LeeAnn. Yeah, I was sitting up front and watched the speedometer go to 180 km/hr sometimes. We passed the bus that left CTA an hour before us sometime before Palermo. I'm considering that as part of the "Through the Back Door" experience.

Posted by
25 posts

My goodness!! I have reservations to fly into Catania on May 8 and out of Palermo on May 28. How does one find out the state of the volcano as I get closer to my trip?

Posted by
15582 posts

It's a fact of life that if you are near an active volcano, you can't be sure. I was told it is not infrequent that flighs in/out of Catania are cancelled bbecause of Etna's ash. There's no way to know in advance. It's an active volcano! The only way to be sure is to plan to fly in/out of Palermo.

When I visited - on my own, no tour - I flew international into Palermo, via Rome, and left from Catania to mainland Italy for another week. I figured the worse case would be that I'd spend more time in Siracusa and less time in Bologna if Etna closed the airport.

Posted by
8440 posts

lynn, as we found out, the impact of the ash plume from Mt Etna on flights from/to Catania is dependent on which way the wind is blowing. Its unpredictable. You can only note that your booking airline should be on top of it, and hope they redirect or rebook you into Palermo if necessary. But they wont know if they need to do that until the airport authorities tell them the daily/hourly status. If you read lizthemadhatter's Trip Report on the Sicily tour, you'll see that some flights on our trip were cancelled in the morning while others flew on schedule. I believe the Catania airport maintains a website where you can see some current information on Etna impacts, but not predictive.

Posted by
76 posts

If you are up for adventure, instead of going all the way across Sicily back to Palermo, what about traveling up the east coast and taking the brief (20 minutes) ferry to Reggio Calabria and flying out of there? Cheap and easy way to see another lovely and relatively unknown part of Italy while still getting to your final destination.