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sicily itinerary this sept/oct

Hi all. We were to go to Sicily for 3 weeks in May but my mom passed so we have shortened our trip and are going spet 2-Oct 9. Would appreciate your feedback. We eliminated our visit to Lipari bc weather/wind concerns. It's me and my husband. WE have spent about 14 weeks in Italy but never Sicily. Not renting a car but have a private driver or 2 lined up.

We land Palermo at 1:40 on Sept 25. Was going to spend our first 2 nights in Cefalu as its an easy ride on train from Palermo Airport. However, some are suggesting I add these 2 days to Palermo, as weather might be iffy and not much to do in Cefalu in bad weather. Also better beaches in other areas. Thoughts?

So either 9/25-27 Cefalu and 9/27 - 9/30 Palermo or 9/25-9/30 Palermo with day trip to Cefalu. We have a full day tour with Francesca Lombardo, including a visit to Monreale.

9/30-10/1 Agrrigento. We are staying in a b&B that's walkable to the temples. Will arrive around lunch, viist museum and do 6 ish visit to the Valley.

10/1-4. Private driver will take us to Villa Romana del Casale and then to Ragusa for 3 nights. Modica day trip. Maybe Marina de Ragusa too

10/4-8 Ortigia. Boat trip to caves and Spaiggi SAn Lorenzo, maybe day at beach Fontaine Bianche, relax and enjoy

Oct 8-return to Palermo for final night for early 7 am flight back home next day

Appreciate any and all comments/suggestions

Posted by
46 posts

anyone? appreciate your help
General questions

is overnight and evening tour of valley of temples after crowds have gone better than day trip from palermo?

2 nights in cefalu to start trip-good idea?

any other suggestions?

Posted by
3156 posts

We day tripped to cefalu from Palermo. The advantage of this is can pick a sunny day. There are more things to do inside in Palermo.

Make sure you see a puppet show in Palermo. Great fun. There is one place near the cathedral. Another near the theater.

We spent one night in agrigento. We visited about 5 pm. It was wonderful. You will have shorter days than we did since we went in May and you are going in fall. And check the hours it is open. It may not be open at 6 that time of year. And if you don’t have time for everything, drop the museum.

We did a tour of a chocolate factory in modica. Great fun.

Can you fly out of catania rather than Palermo? It would keep you from back tracking.

Posted by
46 posts

thanks. our tickets are rt Palermo so can't change.

Was a day trip enough for Cefalu? I am worried that the one full day we are there won't be great weather. did you swim?

Posted by
592 posts

Based on our experience, I would say skip Cefalu — super crowded and unwelcoming. We tend to move around more than you plan to do, so it is hard to make helpful suggestions. But Valley of the Temples at dusk was a highlight for us. And, there are some lovely beaches near Agrigento so maybe consider spending more than one night there. Regardless, you will love Sicily! Have a great trip.

Posted by
1211 posts

I would just stay in Palermo 100%. It’s a great place to explore. Cefalu is nice, but small. Also, overall enjoyment is a little weather dependent. You’d be leaving a lot of the table. A day trip, if you’re truly bored with Palermo, is plenty for Cefalu. If you really want time in Cefalu to enjoy the beach, I’d take a day from Ragusa first.

It sounds like airfare is set, but if not I’d look into a flight out of Catania. Saves a lot of backtracking and it’s actually the “big” airport on the island. You’ll often see better or cheaper connections through Catania vs Palermo.

Posted by
46 posts

Hi. we won't have a car so not sure how we'd get aruond Agrigento and the beaches so that's why we have one night.

think I will eliminate our time in Cefalu as it's so weather dependent. Might do 5 nights Ortigia as there are beaches there.

Why would you eliminate a night in Ragusa? I feel that we are getting there pretty late in the day as we are stopping in Villa Romana on the way so really only 2 days there. One for Ragusa, one for Modica.

Posted by
628 posts

I spent about four days in a great B&B in Ragusa Ibla in 2023 and, in 2024, we spent about ten days at a rural hotel outside Marina di Ragusa. I am happy to give you any information from those stays.

Posted by
46 posts

Hi Ek! I remember you had a car (I don't) so the rural one won't work. I have Evoca B&B that looks wonderful so I am happy with that in Ragusa Ibla and owner has been so helpful.

What did you do in Ragusa Ibla? I remember it was alot of walking and steps...

Posted by
1211 posts

Hey OP, I’m not saying drop a night from Ragusa in general, just that I’d take a day from there versus Palermo if you wanted time in Cefalu. I’m not fully clear on how many nights you have where.

Ortigia is great, but five nights is a lot. Four is plenty. Any beach time is just as weather dependent there as it is in Cefalu. So, maybe that’s a day you can free up, or not.

Posted by
628 posts

.Yes, a ton of walking and steps in Ibla is about right!!
My partner was in bad shape, physically, so he spent a lot of time in the B&B. I walked around Ibla, went to the arancini place where you sit outdoors and have one of several great types of arancini. I also did some more food shopping, and window shopping.

I walked up to the upper town one day (no one knew when the bus would arrive, so I decided to be brave). Oh, my, lots of steps, and then more steps!!! They have a museum of Italy in Africa up there but it was closed. So I walked to a bakery I had read about somewhere--the name is Giumarra; aros the bridge from the main section of the upper town, but do go!! Really recommend--not a soul spoke English but they were as kind as can be about helping me pick out a good variety of the local savory pastry (sciaccia) with eggplant, cheese, tomatoes--or all of the above. They also sell home-made desserts. I brought lots of things home to cheer up my ailing partner!!!

I went to the Duomo in Ibla, and then did more walking around. I think I did the same thing a second day.
One day we hired a driver, Dario Caffiso, who drove us to the Modica outlook (not into the town) and to the area around Chiaramonte Gulfi, where a lot of good olive oil is made. We went to the Cutrera azienda and I bought (I am embarrassed to tell you the amount, but many) bottles of oil, and oil-based condiment (flavored with lemon, orange, red peppers) and some jams and flavored salts. (That trip was in 2023 and I am still working on the salts)

From Cutrera, the driver (Dario--we loved him) took us to Marzamemi and then on to Porto Palo di Capo Pessaro, where we had lunch at Ristorante Scala...spaghetti with lobster for me and spaghetti with tomato sauce for my partner. With a little wine, and water, I still remember that the bill was 40 euro for lunch. After that we drove to Noto,, where I just ambled along on the main street and saw only two churches, and had sweets at Caffe Sicilia.
My partner had to wait in the van with Dario because he could barely walk back then..

But those have to be done with a driver. Staying in Ibla, and even walking up to the upper town, which I liked a lot but is not so atmospheric or unique as Ibla, I think you could be ok with two nights IF you can cram a lot into one day. But you have a whole day in Modica, so three nights will be excellent. Also, it was very hot in May and my energy was lagging a little, so I did not do my usual running about everywhere and trying to cram in every last sight.

Please: If you like chocolate (the grainy kind, like Mexican chocolate) makes sure to buy at least THREE times as many bars as you think you want!! I thought I was going into some kind of withdrawal after I finished my bags of chocolate bars. We happened to return to Sicily the year later and I then bought an amount of bars you can barely imagine. Sadly, those are now all gone, with the last one being finished in May (bought this past September) You Cana buy these in Modica,of course, but they are sold everywhere in that part of the island and maybe beyond. And you do not have to buy only the most famous Bonojuato chocolate..they are all good, and I know this because I ate a LOT of those bars, from all different makers.

Oh, my, I've gone on and on a very long time and have not answered any of your questions..I'm sorry, but I am happy to offer any kind of advice at all if I can. I KNOW you will have an excellent trip. And then you will have to begin planning your next visit to the island, like I did!!

Posted by
45 posts

Late September weather can be a bit unpredictable, so I’d probably spend those first days in Palermo. Then, if the sun’s out, take a day trip to Cefalù from there. Your itinerary after that looks really well balanced, staying close to the temples in Agrigento is smart. If you have some extra time or want to switch things up, consider a quick day trip to Ustica from Palermo. It’s a small volcanic island with great snorkeling, and it’s a peaceful contrast to the mainland. For ideas you can have a look here: https://www.ferryhopper.com/en/blog/featured/palermo-ustica-day-trip-guide