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Sicily Itinerary Help

We are a group of 6 adults (in our 60's) planning a trip for next September/October. Looking to be in Sicily for about 10 days before going to one of the Greek islands and then Athens. We are not driving at all, but will use trains if possible, or a car service between cities if there are no trains. Interests....some history, of course....just wondering around town, Mt. Edna, and of course food is on the top of the list. We figure we will start out at Palermo and end in Catania. Does this sound doable....Palermo, Trapani, Syracuse, Taorimina, Catania. Or do we need more than 10 days to do this amount of traveling? Or, open to any other suggestions from people in the know. :)

Thanks in advance for the help...fellow travellers!
Diane

Posted by
6788 posts

Palermo, Trapani, Syracuse, Taorimina, Catania

5 locations in 10 days.
That gives you one day in each of these places. Not exactly a relaxed pace.

Keep in mind that public transportation in Sicily is limited and generally not super efficient.

I think you need twice as many days, or half as many locations.

Posted by
27212 posts

I always recommend an absolute minimum of two weeks in Sicily, and that's barely workable if you have your own car. If you can manage the additional time, I'd suggest closer to 3 weeks in your situation. I spent 18 days in Sicily without a car in 2015 and didn't get to everywhere I wanted to go. It helped a lot that I am not a fan of Greek ruins, so I skipped Agrigento, Segesta and Selinunte. I also do not do beaches.

When people have enough time to attempt to cover places all over the island, I usually suggest setting up a base for each of these areas. It minimizes out-and-back travel. Sicily has buses to supplement the limited train service. I found them generally reliable, but there can be gaps in the schedule and there's often no bus service at all on Sundays.

  • Palermo/Cefalu
  • Trapani/Erice
  • Interior (Enna, Piazza Armerina, Caltagirone)
  • Siracusa/Baroque towns (Ragusa, Noto, Modica, Scicli); or might have separate Ragusa base
  • Catania/Taormina/Etna
  • Aeolian Islands
  • Whatever you need to hit the Greek sites (I can't help there)
Posted by
8506 posts

Why not take a look at the itinerary on the Rick Steves Sicily tour offered on this website? Its an 11 day tour, starting in Palermo and ending in Catania, that could give you some ideas. You might not be able to match their efficiency on the tour schedule but at least gives you an itinerary of whats worth doing.

Etna.

Posted by
85 posts

I did look at Rick's Tours...that's what I worked from. He does a hop around a lot. I'm thinking we should skip the Greek portion and spend the whole time in Sicily. (2-2 1/2 weeks). Although, we don't have a car, we will be willing to get a driver if there is no transportation options. Acraven you think I can work your itinerary in 2 1/ weeks? A lot to mull over.

Thanks!
Diane

Posted by
6613 posts

I like the way acraven broke down the different areas. Not that you mentioned wanting to visit it, but if you see the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, you can skip both Segesta and Selinunte since those temples are pretty much the same as in the valley. Rather than staying in Palermo, we opted for Monreale since we had a car and didn’t dare drive in the city. The bus to and from Palermo was easy. We stayed in Erice and took the cable car down to Trapani. We visited both Siracusa and Noto in the same day, but again, we had a car. Follow acraven’s advice for public transportation. With two full weeks or 2.5, you should be able see the places you want.

Posted by
7049 posts

Diane,
The buses and trains work just fine. I wouldn't write them off. The buses are nice and modern; the regional trains are not "high speed" but they do the job. The only day to watch out for is Sundays.

Posted by
27212 posts

I did not go to the Aeolian Islands, but I spent a day in the Egadi Islands while I was staying in Trapani (not really recommended, though easier than the Aeolians). Otherwise, I covered all the places I mentioned. I went into the interior on two separate days while I was staying in Catania, which wasn't an efficient thing to do. So I think you an have a very good trip if you have 2-1/2 weeks. The more research you do, the more efficient you can be. Just be sure you plan to stay put or a take a train on Sundays, and check to see whether there is a holiday during the period you will be traveling. Holidays are also very problematic when you need to get to another town.

I'm glad you're willing to consider focusing on just Sicily this time around. I'm sure you won't regret it. Trying to combine Sicily and Greece would make both parts of the trip less than ideal.

Posted by
85 posts

Did some tweeking....but I'm sure I'm not done.

Wow...started this planning with 2 weeks between Sicily & Greece. After reading the books and these forums to find out I want to spend all the time in SIcily and looks like I will need even more time. So excited to plan this trip, but having a hard time picking and choosing what to see. We are 3 couples in our 60's and active - no one wants to drive. So we plan on bus, train and when all else fails a driver for the longer hauls between bases. Need some more guidance from this knowledgeable group. Probably can stretch the visit to 16-17 days. So here's my ideas so far and please any input would be appreciated.

Fly into Palermo

Palermo 3 nights (day trips? Cefalu & Trapani)

Palermo - Agrigento via train (2 hrs) - 1 night (Valley of the Temples)

Agrigento - Siracusa - via car (2 1/2 hrs. 365 Euro) - 3 nights (day trips? Ragusa, Noto)

Siracusa - Taomina - 3 nights via train (2 hrs)

Taomina - Catania - 3 nights via train (1 hr 15 mins)

Fly out of Catania

That's 5 bases - 13 days - so I can play around with another 3-4 days. Suggestions?

Also, I'm reading that Taomina could be very touristy and expensive, but sounds like it can't be missed. Should we base out of somewhere else & travel for the day there?

Much appreciated!

Diane

Posted by
11294 posts

I went to Sicily with a friend in April/May 2014 (hard to believe it was 4.5 years ago!). If you want a very long read with ALL the details, here is my trip report: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/sicily-palermo-caltanisetta-siracusa-taormina

Don't be afraid of driving in Sicily. As you'll see from the report, it worked out fine. On the other hand, people certainly visit Sicily without a car - you just have to allow more time to get around. Having heard the "horror stories" about Sicilian driving, we found them mostly unfounded. My friend later went to the UK, and said driving around rural areas there (on the opposite side, with the very narrow roads and the many hedges) was far harder than driving in Sicily!

We had 10 nights and ran around, and had a "tasting platter" of highlights. It worked fine, but I agree that more time is definitely better.

For me, Taormina was the absolute highlight, even with the crowds. Others don't agree, but I found it magic. And as with all such places, if you're worried about day trip and cruise ship crowds, the antidote is to spend at least one night there (although this is undoubtedly expensive).

Posted by
27212 posts

I think you're way short on time in Palermo. The first day doesn't count (jetlag and sleep-deprivation if you're arriving from the US/Canada), so you only have two days there, and you plan to make two day-trips. While in Trapani you'll want to see Erice, so that will make for a long day-trip. I think the bus takes 2 hours from Palermo to Trapani. I'd prefer to spend a couple of nights in Trapani and see the area at a more relaxed pace.

I thought Cefalu didn't need a great deal of time (some others like it more), but Palermo is certainly more than a half-day sort of place. So I'd put most of your extra time in Palermo/Trapani.

Catania and Taormina are pretty close together. I'd try not to set up separate bases for those two. In any case, I think your time allotment for Catania is rather generous. (I feel the same way about Taormina, but I know it has big fans.) I'd transfer one night from Catania elsewhere--maybe to Siracusa.

I hate to see you have to pay for a private driver between Agrigento and Siracusa, but it looks as if it will be a lot faster than dealing with public transportation. You might check on the extra time and money to include a diversion to the Villa Romana del Casale outside Piazza Armerina. Maybe eat lunch in that town, too.

Edited to add:

A Sicilian I met at Monreale recommended the coastal town of Acireale to me. It's between Catania and Taormina. I didn't have time to go there but have since checked some photos on line. It looks very attractive. That's not the same as having stayed there, obviously.

Posted by
5228 posts

Diane,

I traveled to Sicily this past May and relied solely on public transportation, except for the private transfer to Catania airport.

This was my itinerary: Palermo- (visited Cefalù as a day trip (one hour train ride) then Monreale (by bus) one afternoon) >> bus to Trapani (visited Erice, Segesta and Island of Favignana, on separate days) >> bus to Agrigento - visited the Valley of the Temples >> bus to Piazza Armerina with a change in Caltanissetta (B&B owner picked me up at bus stop) >> bus to Syracuse with a change at Catania's airport - stayed in Ortigia and took day trip to Noto >> train to Milazzo >> ferry to the Island of Lipari - day trip to Island of Salina >> ferry back to Milazzo >> train to Acireale - took day trip to Taormina >> private transfer from Acireale to Catania Airport.

If I had 17 days (18 nights) to visit Sicily, this is what I'd do:

  • Palermo - 4-5N - day trip to Cefalù &/or Monreale.
  • Take train to Agrigento - 2N - visit Valley of the Temples.
  • Bus to Piazza Armerina- 2- 3N - visit Villa Romana del Casale, and day trip to Caltagirone (if you love ceramics)
  • Bus to Siracusa ( stay in Ortigia) - 4N - day trip to Noto, Ragusa or Modica.
  • Train or bus to Taormina - 3N [Or train to Acireale (or Catania) with day trip to Taormina]
  • Bus or train to Catania -1N -Private transfer to Catania Airport.

I truly enjoyed my time in the Island of Lipari, but not sure about the ferry schedule in October.

Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
11213 posts

Take a night away from Taormina unless you plan a day trip to Mt.Etna. We ran out of things to do quickly after visiting the Greek Theater and taking a gondola down to the beach. It was our least favorite place in Sicily.
We had a car in western Sicily to see the incredible archeological sites.
We dropped the car off in Siracusa, very easy. As far as driving, do not assume anything such as expecting drivers to stop for red lights or stop signs. They drive into pedestrian only zones too.

Posted by
7049 posts

Also, I'm reading that Taomina could be very touristy and expensive,
but sounds like it can't be missed. Should we base out of somewhere
else & travel for the day there?

Try Giardini Naxos which is very close by. I'm sure it will be less pricy to stay there than Taormina. I took the bus from Siracusa to Taormina and it passed through Giardini Naxos, so it's not hard to get to and it's very accessible to Taormina.

By the way, it's better to take the bus (not the train) to Taormina. The train leaves you at the bottom of a steep hill a km or two away, while the bus drops you off minutes from the main town gate.

Posted by
85 posts

Thanks Harold - Read your trip report - sounds fabulous. We are not afraid of driving in Sicily, it's just that there are 6 of us. Would have to rent a van. So we are set on trains, buses and driver on other parts of the trip when it makes sense. Still looking over Taormina. Agnes has posted that I should look into Giardini Naxos (which I will). Half the fun is planning this trip out. Thanks for your help.

Priscilla - Glad to hear that public transportation is doable. Your itinerary sounds like something we would like. Except now we might look into Giardini Naxos instead of Taormini. Thanks for your input.

Back to planning with all of your help!
Thanks
Diane

Posted by
42 posts

Do not rely on trains in Sicily! Either rent a car or hire a driver. We drove from Syracusa all over the southern and central parts of the island and into Agrigento with no problem. Just don't drive in big cities if at all possible. We dropped the car at Palermo airport and relied on public transport/taxis in Palermo. Sicily is wonderful!

Posted by
27212 posts

I spent 18 days in Sicily in 2015 without a car. It can be done. I never had a train or bus not show up or be significantly late except for the night train I took from Rome to Catania. (Don't do that!)

Posted by
85 posts

We definitely will not be driving around (there are 6 of us). And thanks acraven for the advice no worries we are not taking the night train from Rome. I have read that's not the way to go!.

DIane

Posted by
11294 posts

If you do change your mind and decide to drive, just get two cars - much easier than a single large van. It also lets your group split up if needed.

Posted by
85 posts

Harold - I can't get one person to agree to be the driver....now you want me to get two.

LOL
Diane

Posted by
2455 posts

Diane, just a few additional ideas from my May 2014 visit to wonderful Sicily. I went first to Erice for two nights, with a rental car, then on to Palermo where I joined the RS Sicily Tour, which had a slightly different itinerary than it does now. My personal highlights included:
1. My time in Erice, especially early morning and the evening, when the ancient stone hill town was very quiet and misty, really magical. Great food and baked goods in Erice too. From Erice, I made a day trip to the ruins at Segesta and Selinunte. Wanted to stop in Marsala and Trapani on my way back, but never found a parking space in either town.
2. On the outskirts of Catania, the tour visited the excellent and unusual museum dedicated entirely to the Allies’ liberation of Sicily in 1943, the first liberation in Europe, the beginning of the end of World War II. I realized that I knew absolutely nothing about this part of US military history and Italian history. One memorable exhibit included passing through a replica of a quaint, small, beautiful Italian piazza; then a time in a replica of a dark bomb shelter, with bombs bursting around; then exiting into the same piazza, but now devastated by the bombing. Really a unique museum.
3. Up high above Taormina there is a very small stone hill town called Castelmola, which you can poke around for a while, lanes, shops, a castle too, but it was closed when I was there. Near the town is a “church of the rock”, a very unusual small and intimate church built into the rocks. From outside the church, there is a stunning view back down into Taormina, including the ancient Greek/Roman theater. A small group of us shared a taxi up there and back, about two hours in all. Seemed like it was a normal tourist fare for local taxi drivers.
Enjoy Sicily (and your travel planning)!

Posted by
527 posts

In 2016 my husband and I (in our 60s) spent 19 days in Sicily in early June using public transportation. We flew into Palermo for 3 nights which we surprisingly enjoyed. Then we took a very nice train to Agrigento for 1 night and the temples are unforgettable. Trained to Cefalu in another very clean train and relaxed in a little apartment for a few days and ate very well. Grabbed half of a round trip excursion boat from Cefalu to Lipari for 4 nights ( this may not be available in September). However our daughter visited Lipari and Salina for her honeymoon last year and loved Salina which is far less touristy. We then took the hydrofoil from Lipari to Messina and took the train to Taorimina staying above the town. Another train brought us to Ortygia which adjoins Siracusa (4 nights) and is very charming. We did do a day bus trip to Noto which for us wasn't worth the effort. We flew out of Catania and we were glad we only spent 1 day there. We did pass on Piazza Armenia as it was much more complicated by public transportation. If you go to Tripadvisor you will find the remarkable Vagabonda with thousands of postings. p.s. We are just back from 22 days in Greece which we loved.