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Sicily Itinerary

If you had a blank slate in Sicily (Early May) and were a solo female traveler...35, active, foodie, art, architecture, and nature lover, wine lover... what would you plan? What sites or cities would you visit? Which cities would you base yourself out of for easy travel? Any sites/cities you would skip?

I will be arriving by overnight ferry into Catania on Saturday early morning and departing on overnight ferry from Palermo the following Saturday evening ...so 8 solid days of sightseeing to work with...

I would like to visit at least one winery. I am leaning away from renting a car and relying on trains or buses...is this a horrible idea? Wasn't sure I wanted to deal with navigation and driving at the same time since I have no co-pilot. I will be coming from Naples/Pompeii/Amalfi and have seen Florence/Rome/Venice in a prior trip so if something will feel like a repeat/let down let me know that too.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations.

Diane

Posted by
16232 posts

As a solo female traveler, you should first plan about the possibility of meeting the Sicilian dream love of your life. That will probably affect your initial plans.

If that doesn't pan out, consider basing yourself in Taormina or Giardini Naxos for 2 nights (3 if you want an excursion on Mt. Etna). Then Siracusa for a couple of nights. And finally Palermo for the remainder. Without a car, it's best to stay in those places. If you were willing to rent a car, I'd recommend to stay in smaller places. From Palermo you can reach various locales on short day trips, such as Segesta, Monreale, Cefalu, Erice.

With 8 days I think I gave you enough to stay busy and maybe more that you can handle in the time available.

Posted by
11294 posts

I visited Sicily in April-May of 2014. My trip was different from yours in that we had 10 nights in Sicily, I was with a friend, and we had a rental car (he drove). However, I think you'll get some good ideas from my trip report: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/sicily-palermo-caltanisetta-siracusa-taormina

With 8 days and your start and end points, I like the idea of a few days in Taormina, a few days in Siracusa, and a few days in Palermo. Or, you could pick either Siracusa or Taormina and do daytrips; this means less moving around and changing hotels.

Posted by
336 posts

Active and nature lover?
You have to go to eolian islands to climb the Stromboli:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mD6cFEeK5E
We did this in 2015 and this is the most memorable day of all vacations in Europe, in 13 trips.
So I'd stay a couple of days for Etna and Taormina, then 2-3 nights on Lipari island for the Stromboli and maybe Vulcano(or Lipari)
on your way back, stop for a few hours in Cefalu, and then go to Monreale for the cathedral before finishing in Palermo for 2 nights.
I'd rent a car and make sure I have a gps.
Driving in Sicily is ok, Palermo is an experience though. :-)
The Ballaro market is a must in Palermo. Different and unique. Nothing like you've seen elsewhere in Italy. You'll feel like you are in an Italian movie.
Lots of good wines around Etna. Nerello Mascarese is the main grape.

Posted by
12 posts

Harold, thanks so much for the travel blog link. You have a great write up on the pros and cons and details of your trip. I will spend some time over the next few days dissecting it some. Thanks again for the info and recommendations!

Posted by
12 posts

Roberto,

Thanks for the suggestions! My plans may have to change upon arrival if I find the right Sicilian man! LOL

Posted by
12 posts

Roberto,

What would you recommend for traveling in the different areas to places outside the town? ie. Taormina to Mt Etna, Taormina to Syracuse, Palermo to Monreale, etc. Is bus or train better? Would you suggest a tour company for any of these? Any tips on the transit there? I've visited Prague, Krakow, and Budapest using a good bit of public transit, but any quirks I should be mindful of in Sicily?

If a garmin doesn't follow the roads really well, as Harold suggests in his travel report, I'm leery to drive and navigate on my own. I also only drive an automatic transmission car. Do you have a different experience driving in Sicily? Would you recommend driving for a solo traveler? Are you able to easily find parking nearby to most of the sites I'd be visiting?

Thanks!

Posted by
12 posts

Claude,

Stromboli sounds wonderful. I will have to take a look at going there.

Do you know if Garmin gps are better now? Harold had trouble in smaller towns. Is it better now or did you use a different GPS?

Posted by
336 posts

I have a 2009 tom tom that I upgrade from time to time with no problem at all. I'm sure it will be fine with your Garmin if you make sure you upgrade it with the newest roads every 3-4 years.
As far as the Stromboli, i really hope you can fit this in your schedule. It's such a unique experience.
This is one of the 2 official guide companies that are allowed to bring people up:
http://magmatrek.it/en/
Great guides. We go a group of 20-25 people, go up rather slowly and the show up there is just incredible.
If you stay in Lipari, the main Island, they strongly suggest to use their partner damassimo, you will find the info in the information section. This company provides transportation to go and to come back. You leave around noon, swing at some spot, stop for lunch on Panarea island, arrive around 4pm on Stromboli, then discussions with the guide and around 5-5-30 you start climbing.
You take the boat back at around 11pm and back in Lipari for midnight. Tired but your head will be full of unbelievable memories.
I write a personal blog in french, if you can translate, here's the blog at that day.
You can switch days on the right if you want to see the whole trip.
http://famillecyrstgeorges.blogspot.ca/2015/06/29-juin-2015-le-stromboli-l-d-vie.html

Posted by
16232 posts

My experience in Sicily is only with my own car. Driving in Sicily is not any different than anywhere else in Italy, but I know that some Americans, for whatever reason, don't feel comfortable driving in Italy or anywhere outside the US, and so I don't know if you would be one of them. Automatic cars are available in Italy, but they tend to be limited to larger models, and rarely come in the economy size models. Garmin works, TomTom works, paper maps and road sign work too (that's what I used in Sicily, since I didn't take my GPS with me).

Nevertheless public transportation is an option too. Train service and buses are also available, as well as boats to the smaller islands (e.g. Aeolian or Lipari islands).

Taormina to Mt Etna:
The best is an organized Jeep excursion from either Taormina or from the Rifugio Sapienza (which can be reached by car). There are several agencies in Taormina where you can inquire. Obviously there are no trains going up there and you will need an off the road 4x4 vehicle to get to some places.

Taormina to Syracuse:
Can do by bus or by train. Both work, but I think the train might be a bit faster (less than 2 hours).
The Taormina train station is down the hill in Giardini Naxos.
www.trenitalia.com
For bus service check below:
http://www.interbus.it/Home.aspx
As suggested above you could visit Siracusa from Taormina on a day trip, if you want to save yourself a hotel change. But plan on 2.5-3 hours each way, and that will cut down severely on your time available for visiting Siracusa, which is the most beautiful city in Sicily, IMAO (in my arrogant opinion). It's up to you.

Palermo to Monreale, etc. Is bus or train better?
No trains can go uphill. Monreale is on a hill overlooking Palermo. Take city bus no. 389 from Piazza Indipendenza (near Palazzo dei Normanni).

Would you suggest a tour company for any of these?
Mt. Etna (see above). Everything else is easy on your own.

Any tips on the transit there?
No particular concerns, just try to buy for the bus/train ticket. I know it's Sicily, but at least visitors should pay, since locals don't always do.
One more thing. When on crowded buses, be alert for these and these, and not only in Sicily, but everywhere.

Posted by
11294 posts

The only place where the Garmin really didn't work was the agriturismo. My friend went back the next year with a TomTom, and it worked fine there.

For everywhere else, the Garmin worked well enough (it did great in Ortigia). Or as Roberto says, you can use maps. So, for the destinations you have in mind, which are major places, don't worry that you'll get lost.

As you see, we had no trouble getting an automatic. You should be able to get one at the Catania airport or train station.

Posted by
12 posts

Roberto, you said if I decided to rent a car, you'd suggest smaller places to stay. What are your suggestions? I think I can handle the driving since its not that far and it'll allow greater flexibility. I will have one suitcase and one carry on so I should be able to hide the luggage in the trunk well while in transit. What itinerary would you suggest?