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Sicily in mid-November

A friend and I are in the preliminary stages of planning a fall (November) trip to Italy, beginning in Sicily and then working north to Rome or Florence. It’s a little complicated because we’ll travel together from NYC to Italy, but I’ll be staying about two weeks longer than she. We’ll likely fly JFK to Catania, spend about a week in Sicily (probably in 2 different base locations) and then fly to Rome where we will meet friends. Eventually, we’ll individually return to NYC, likely from Rome.

So, neither of us have been to Sicily and we naturally want to maximize our experience there. We’re young 60 ish, women who are very active and interested in being outdoors as much as possible. That being said, we love restaurants and hospitality and are very social. Museums and history are fine, but our ideal is walking, hiking and biking.

We aren’t opposed to spending $$, but are also content to eat some meals in our accommodations and will likely look at VRBO or Airbnb options. We could rent a car, if necessary, but we like wine at lunch and prefer to stay in a walkable area if that’s an option.

Sicily veterans - what are your favorite spots and suggestions? What two or three locations should we focus our attention on? Where should we avoid? Thanks for any advice you might offer!

Posted by
717 posts

Just be aware that in mid-November the weather may not be the best. I spent a week split between Trapani and Palermo, and we had several days of wind driven rain in Trapani. The vibe was New-England-beach-town-after-the-season-ends. Many restaurants were closed. Our driver who was to take us to Erice backed out. Palermo was better, grey days and not crowded. You are trading off the in-season crowds for unpredictable weather, so plan accordingly. Sicily is lovely, there is just more to do indoors in Rome when it rains.

Posted by
1088 posts

We were there late October and first part of November and I would absolutely and I thought it was awesome. Crowds were thin, prices were soft and people seemed kinda relaxed. It's true that some innkeepers and restaurants close Nov 1, but the tradeoffs are so worth it that I wouldn't give it a thought.

I'd just get small hotels. Sicilian food is ridiculously good and it's a bargain. And having an actual innkeeper will be less mucking about.

My favorite spots were Palermo and Ragusa; followed by the Randazzo/Northern Etna area. We also spent a couple nights in Agrigento and 3 nights on Ortigia. People love Ortigia so what about Ortigia and Palermo as your two bases? I skipped Catania and Taormina so I can't comment. I'll definitely visit Catania on my next trip along with the southern/southwest coast.

I honestly wish you had another 4-7 days for Sicily. It's really fantastic and there's so much to see. Even if you had 3-4 more days, you could add a stop in the baroque hill towns or just extend Palermo time. But this way you'll get a taste of Sicily and you'll be hooked.

Posted by
153 posts

Thanks so much for both of these responses. They were helpful. Since the flights I’m looking at land in Catania, maybe it makes the most sense to spend two nights in that area adjusting to the time difference and exploring Etna before heading south and eventually looping west to Palermo over the next 5 days or so. I understand and accept that the weather might not be ideal, but it should be better than upstate New York! 😊

Posted by
1088 posts

I think that idea makes sense. Some people love Catania, some people not so much. Maybe a lot of it has to do with whether you embrace a certain "grittiness" as character. I can't comment directly on Catania but I like Naples and people say the same about it. Catania has plenty to do and see. You can make a day trip up to Taormina and, like you mentioned, tours of southern Etna are another option.

The reason I mentioned Ortigia is that it's less than an hour from the Catania airport and people on the boards tend to love it. From there you have other day trips like the Baroque cities (Noto is 40 minutes away), and the Siracusa Archeological Park. We didn't do any day trips from Ortigia, we just explored the tiny peninsula, ate seafood, watched sunsets, saw the puppet theatre and the old jewish mikvah/bomb shelter.

3 Catania + 4 Palermo (Simplest and maybe best)
2 Catania + 1 Agrigento + 4 Palermo (Arrive agrigento late afternoon, see ruins next day, then hop train to Palermo)
2 Catania + 2 Ragusa + 3 Palermo (Burns a lot of time with connections to Ragusa?)
4 Catania + 3 Palermo (For Etna lovers)
- Or add a bus connection upon arrival and replace Catania with Ortigia in any of the above.

I will say... it sucks that Ponygirl above had so much bad weather. We had lovely weather. It rained three times in our almost 3 weeks on Sicily for a total of maybe 5 hours. But we not there during the last half of the month.

Posted by
47 posts

You can easily get a transfer to Ortegia or Taormina upon arrival and adjust to the time there in a more relaxing environment. Since you said you are interested in being active and outdoors, I think that is a better plan. Taormina is a good base for visiting Etna and enjoying hikes (weather permitting) and wine tasting. Maybe have these two towns as bases and possibly add a few nights in Ragusa too if possible, sticking to Eastern Sicily for this trip.

Posted by
8 posts

Also planning a trip to Sicily so appreciated everyone's thoughts. The OP mentioned they will work their way north after Sicily, which is also what we plan to do, and we're evaluating the ferry from Palermo to Naples OR the overnight train. Does anyone have experience to share with either option? Many thanks.

Posted by
1431 posts

With a week, I think sticking to roughly two bases is good. I would suggest heading straight to Ortigia from Catania airport, there are regular busses right outside the terminal. Three nights there will do. There’s some actual sightseeing with the Archeological park and Orsi museum, but Ortigia is simply a picturesque joy to wander about in.

The headline sights on Sicily imo are Villa Romana and Agrigento/Valley of the Temples. Skipping either would be a shame. Seeing both as you cross the island from east to west will require a car rental. It’s just for a couple days and the driving is pretty easy, mostly on the autostrada. Staying a night between here (usually in Agrigento) is probably necessary.

Finally, wrap up in Palermo. Palermo is my top underrated city. It’s got plenty of sights, and is a blast to explore. I found it largely the opposite of what its image projects, that it’s dirty or gritty, but pretty clean, active, hip and sophisticated. The tourist center is largely pedestrianized. Include Monreale cathedral as a day trip via public transport here.

Posted by
764 posts

Ditto to the insightful suggestions made by @awrzesinski.

Dusk at Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is magical and was the highlight of our time in Sicily. Ortigia is lovely but, in a seven day trip, two nights would be enough to give you a good taste. We stopped at Villa Romana del Casale en route from Ortigia to Agrigento, had a good dinner in Agrigento, and went to a lovely nearby beach the next day before visiting Valley of the Temples. It worked out great for us. We stopped at Monreale en route to Palermo where we dropped the car immediately on arrival.

So, perhaps consider:
Ortigia - 2 nights
Agrigento - 2 nights
Palermo - 3 nights

***Should add that we flew USA to Rome, then directly to Catania via ITA. Return was Palermo to Rome.

Posted by
8 posts

Hey @mml - where did you drop your car on arrival in Palermo? We want to do the same but hopefully avoid going to the airport.

Posted by
764 posts

@Wavemaker - No need to go to the airport. We used Hertz and dropped off the car downtown on arrival to Palermo. It was a short walk to our accommodation which was near the Cathedral. It looks as though (per Google) there are other rental agencies in the city as well.

Posted by
153 posts

Such great and valuable information, everyone. Thank you! The fares I’m seeing are very reasonable and despite the potential for wet weather (currently in Cape Cod where it rained for the past two days consistently), I think it’s a good time to get there. As a freshly retired teacher, I’m smitten with the idea of off season travel. 🙂

Posted by
1088 posts

@Wavemaker. We used Sixt. We picked up and dropped it off near the harbor. A short walk or very short bus ride from the main pedestrian core. It was easy coming and going.