Sicily

If you are visiting islands be sure to include Stromboli. You can hike to the top of the active volcano and watch it erupt. One of my favorite travel experiences ever.

Palermo is worth a couple of days, perhaps more if you are a very slow traveler. Driving there is a pain. Pick up the car when you're ready to leave. Cefalu is expensive and has lots of tourists. I wouldn't make it a base. Consider taking the train there from Palermo and getting the car afterward.

For the western coast area, I stayed in Castellammare de Golfo. I went as far as Selinunte and Mazara del Vallo on day trips (not the same day !!). Anywhere around there would be good, maybe an agriturismo. That was my first choice, but I ran into technical problems with the owner and arranging payment. Agrigento is probably good for beach time and Piazza Armerina and the Villa Romana del Casale are less than 2 hours by car. I loved staying in Siracusa - be sure to stay in Ortigia, the old city. Driving in and out for day trips was no problem. I didn't get to Taormina, not sure if that's a good place to day trip from or to have a car in.

isharms,

You may already be aware of this, but you'll require the compulsory International Driver's Permit for driving in Italy. These are used in conjunction with your home D.L. and valid for one year. They can easily be obtained for a small fee at any AAA/CAA office for a small charge. It would also be prudent to research ZTL (limited traffic) area, as there will be hefty fines for each pass through one of these.

I have not been to all those, but I wholehartedly agree with Palermo and Siracusa. Both are wonderful places to stay.

May I suggest the northwest coast, near the Zingaro reserve as another place to consider? This was a lovely natural area, plenty of beaches to hike to. It was not untouristed, but it was undeveloped - no beach chairs, snack stands, etc - just beaches that you have to hike to. The ones closest to the park entry are busier, as you walk in along the coast they get more quiet. We stayed near Scopello, which was a nice very small town.

Also, I did not get to the Aeolian islands but would love to. If I had 9 weeks it would be high up my list.

While in Taormina, I highly recommend a trip to Mt. Etna. You can drive to one of the base areas and get a cable car up the mountain. It's fascinating. While in Trapani, I highly recommend going up to Erice - by car, bus, or cable car. Get there early and it is almost deserted, very quiet.

I would not have the car in Palermo. I would suggest arriving into Palermo, visiting for several days, then picking up the car and heading on your way. Or ending in Palermo - drop off the car, go into the city, stay for several days, fly home. If Palermo needs to be in the middle of the trip, park the car and leave it in the garage for the entire stay in that city. Palermo is not an easy place to drive, or day trip from. You can easily get a bus or cab to Monreale, everything else is better seen from one of your other stops. Cefalu can be done as a day trip by train from Palermo, if you decide not to stay overnight there.

lsharms, when is your trip? If not soon, be aware that Rick Steves will be publishing a Sicily guidebook in 2019 that might be helpful to you. Anyone have more current info on when it will be available?

For Siracusa, stay in it’s historic area, Ortigia Island, charming. Easy walk across the short bridges to Siracusa. Parking located before you go over bridges to Ortigia or on north end of the island, large lot. We recently spent 3 weeks in Sicily and will return. The antiquities are amazing.

Sounds like a fantastic plan.
I agree with Carolyn on the first post. You have lots of time, make sure to spend time on the eolians islands.
A good base is Lipari.
From there you can indeed get to the Stromboli and climb what is an active vulcano.
Same here, probably my strongest experience ever.
You have to reserve as it's an organised and safe excursion with one guide, and group of maybe 20-30 people.
This is done at the end of the day(leaving around 5-5:30pm) to be on top on the volcano around 8pm.
Its about a 2700 feet climb, but done in a easy, slow pace. I think I could have done it in 2 hours easy.
They make sure everybody follows. You don't have to be in super top shape. Just being able to walk for 3 hours should be enough.
There was a 12 year old, 60+ year old, etc.
But when you get on top... To hear, to see, to smell, to feel an active vulcano, is something totally unique.
The stromboli has been spitting lava every 15-20 minutes for the past 10 000 years at quite a regular rate, this is why it's considered a safe adventure.
We did it with one of the 2 companies authorized, Magmatrek
https://magmatrek.it/en/
with transport accomodations(if you stay in Lipari) from a company called Damassimo:
http://www.damassimo.it/eng/index.html
They organise everything: transport, tickets, everything.

Another day, you could also climb an easyer vulcano, which is Vulcano Island, just 5-10 minutes from Lipari.
http://www.visitsicily.info/en/vulcano-aeolian-islands/
Another great experience.
Lipari is a great base, as it's like a big, nice village on an island to discover.
I regret not having spent more time on this island.

Also don't miss Villa Romano Del Casale In piazza Armerina.
It's a palace dating from 300 AD with some of the most incredible mosaics in the world.
It's a Unesco site.
We did it on our way from Agrigento to Syracusa.
Erice, a hilltop town is an absolute must, as well as the Segesta greek temple site. Such a peacefull place
Make sure also to see Monreale cathedral just outside Palermo and make sure to eat lots of Cannolis everywhere you go. :-)

Another vote to base some time in the historical island of Ortigia! In addition to Ragusa we highly recommend the other baroque towns of Noto and Modica. Please come back and share your journey. It sounds amazing!

I agree - when in Siracusa stay in the Ortygia island. Very close to the mainland - short bridge crossing, can walk across - but a different feeling. It’s just a wonderful place to explore, the sights of Siracusa are right there, and you can easily leave by car for day trips.

To me, the major omissions from your list of bases are somewhere in the Aeolian Islands (already mentioned) and somewhere in the interior from which you could visit places like Piazza Armerina (already mentioned), Caltagirone and Enna. If your trip is too early to make use of Rick's upcoming book (and maybe even if it isn't; we don't know how complete his coverage will be), you simply must get a comprehensive guide book to Sicily. Trying to plan a 9-week trip totally on the basis of input from this forum wouldn't be a good idea. I don't think any of us have been able to spend anything like 9 weeks in Sicily, so you'll have time to dig a lot deeper than the rest of us have.

As acraven noted, the RS book may not be super helpful in planning a very long and in-depth trip. His books tend to focus on the places his tours go to and leave out most of the rest, no matter how worthwhile. I would expect the book to be useful for detailed planning down the line and lots of hints for when you hit the ground.

In the last couple of years, I've found the Lonely Planet guides to be very useful. You can "look inside" on Amazon's website and see what it covers. For a trip like yours, I'd also consider a Blue Guide.

If you love cannolis, there is a walk up cannoli window on the edge of the Piazza Duomo on Ortigia, made for you while you wait.

Nine weeks in Sicily, what a glorious opportunity to both settle in and go exploring! Isharms, my very favorite place in Sicily, also my first stop, was Erice, where I spent just 2 nights. It is a wonderful small and ancient coastal hill town, once called Oryx to ancient Greeks, especially magical in the mists of the early morning and evening, when it is very, very quiet, without the day trippers. Some excellent restaurants and bakeries, the couscous de pesce was my favorite dish, leading into grilled lamb chops. I salivate just remembering that meal. Easy day trips to the wonderful Greek ruins at Segesta, on to Selinunte, and the coastal cities of Marsala and nearby Trapani, plus the coastal areas back toward Palermo. Yes, Erice is a hill town, so there is a curvy road leading up to it, also a cable car down to the outskirts of Trapani, when the weather permits. What a wonderful town to come home to!

If you love Arancini, don't miss Da Cristina in Taormina for the best in Sicily! AMAZING!!

My biggest thanks to all of you who replied and gave me such good advice and recommendations. I especially liked the idea of not driving in Palermo, as I remember what driving in large European cities is like (Athens, is a good example!). All of the places you all recommended below are on my list, so the only other thing that I am unsure of is, how to schedule visiting the islands. I plan on seeing the Aeolian islands and the islands east of Trapani. Do I take day trips back and forth to each of them from the mainland each day or do I stay on the islands and travel from one to another, leaving the mainland home base? Thanks again to all who replied and helped me. It is much appreciated!

For the Eolian islands, depends on which ones you do.
If you do Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli and Panarea, stay In Lipari.
If you do the Stromboli climb with Damassimo, they will bring you for lunch on Panarea island.
Vulcano is 5 minutes ferry from Lipari.

I don't believe you've told us what time of year you plan to take this trip. Sicily is extremely hot in the summer, so I hope you're going at a different time of year.

I am not a beach person at all, so it is probably not surprising that I was underwhelmed by the Egadi Islands. I would be very cautious about committing too much time there unless you're looking for a beach break. I believe there's a limit to the number of people who can go to the islands each day, and lodging may be limited mostly to camping--though I'm not sure about that. As of 2015 one had to book the return ferry at the same as the outbound ferry.

As for cannoli, if you see them in a bakery, skip them. If you don't see them, ask. Most (all?) bakeries sell them and they all make them for you on the spot.

Sorry for not mentioning when I plan to travel. Since I am a teacher, I will be traveling in the summer, end of June through end of August. Hot, yes but I'm ok with that and I do love beach time.

You will bake, but as long as your car is air conditioned, you'll have an easy respite in the middle of the day if you need it. I do recommend that you give serious thought to the location of your lodgings in the larger towns so that it is easy to take a mid-day break (when many things are closed) in your air-conditioned hotel room if you're not heading to the beach. Mid-summer heat for a week is one thing. To deal with it for 9 weeks is really draining. (I did it in 2015.)

My wife and I are planning on visiting Sicily for two weeks in April-May, including Easter week. We are thinking of seeing the procession in Trapani and would like to have a base at a BandB somewhere in the area. We want to spend about five days staying in each place in our route around the island.

Any suggestions on a good small town that is close to Trapani, that has stores and restaurants and also good access to the toads, as we will have a car? And has anyone experience with base towns and doing day trips?

tnash26170,

It's best to start your own, new thread. The OP gets an email when a new post appears on their thread.

Isharms -- Here's another vote for Lipari, and a recommendation to stay at Residence Acanto. Try to get room Malva 103. We were there last May and could have stayed for weeks. Very affordable. Lots of day trip options to the other islands, and a great place to just chill.

We also loved the tiny town of Scopello. From here you can hike the Zingaro nature reserve and take day trips around the area. We stayed at B&B Talia, in town, which was a little pricey but worth it. We had the deluxe double room, with amazing views. She served a great breakfast too,.

In making your plans, don't shortchange Ortigia. It's absolutely charming and another place we could have spent weeks.

Just had to come back and reiterate my former comment about Ortigia. It was the most magical experience we had in Sicily. We stayed in a lovely BnB and didn't want to leave. BnB La Via Della Giudecca was wonderful.