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Seeking feedback on food-centric Italy trip (mostly Tuscany)

Hello!

My partner and I will be in Italy this August/September (15 full days), and I'd love some experienced eyes on our itinerary. We had to cancel our honeymoon in 2020, so this is a do-over for us!

We are fairly experienced travelers, but it will be our first time to Italy. We like having 1-2 key things to do each day, with the rest of the time left to wander and take it easy. We also firmly believe that there were always be a next time for any place we go, so we don't need to see "everything" on a single visit.

We both love food (my partner is a huge carnivore and a fan of frozen desserts, so is super excited for Bistecca and gelato) and time outside. I'm into art and history, but I'd prefer one slow wander through a museum for four hours than try to hit three museums in one day.

Plan:
- 8/24: Arrive FLR airport about 2:30pm; taxi to airbnb in Oltrarno near Ponte Vecchio, wander around Oltrarno and get gelato and dinner
- 8/25: Florence walking tour (I'd prefer a guided tour if folks have strong recommendations, otherwise we'll do a self-guided one), afternoon tickets to Uffizi; picnic dinner at Piazzale Michalangelo. Better to flip Uffizi and walking tour?
- 8/26: Duomo group, climb the Campanile; Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio and lunch at Marketo Centrale; maybe shop in afternoon (I'd love to get a leather purse)
- 8/27: Check out of Airbnb, pick up rental car near SMN train station; lunch and a wine tasting somewhere between Florence and Pienza; check into hotel (La Moscadella)
- 6 full days at La Moscadella: in addition to some of the activities through the hotel (pasta making, olive oil tasting, etc), we'd like to do day trips to hill towns. I was thinking Cortona & Montepulciano one day; Pienza, San Gimignano, and Voltera one day (too ambitious?); a full day each at Montalpulciano and Siena. That would give us two extra days for hot springs (unless it's too hot to visit them in August--I'm concerned about that), relaxing at the hotel, and a bike trip and/or walk on part of the Via Francigena.
- 9/3: Drive back to Florence, drop off car, take train to Modena and taxi to Maria Luigia (dinner there--this is the B&B run by Massimo Bottura, and dinner is fixed menu from Osteria Francescana)
- 9/4: Taxi back to Modena, explore Modena for a few hours, train to Bologna
- Two full days in Bologna; we want to do a food tour in town and a production for parmigiano reggiano, balsamic, and parma ham. Will probably do self-guided old town tour
- 9/7: Train back to Florence. Probably just wander + long dinner this day
- 9/8: Pitti Palace and Boboli gardens; shopping for any last things we want to pick up
- 9/9: Fly out of FLR at noon

Particularly seeking advice on:

Trains
- I'm nervous about booking a train to Modena in advance, given we have to drop off the car. Tips on how much time to allow? If we plan to return car by 1, would a 2 or 2:30 train be okay? Not sure how long car return might take.
- I think the Modena -> Bologna train leg counts as regional. How can I tell? And if that's the case, can I avoid prebooking so we can take whatever train makes the most sense on the day?

Things to do
- Any feedback on proposed plan welcome!
- My Florence days might be light; should we add more?
- Suggestions on hilltowns, including if you'd sub any in.
- Hot springs in August--will we die? lol
- Would love recommendations for walking tours and food tours in Florence and Bologna,

Things to eat
- Always looking for food recommendations. We'll do our research, but love hearing about standout food experiences from others
- Wondering if anyone has taken this tour or has an alternative rec: https://www.viator.com/tours/Bologna/Italian-Food-Experience-in-Bologna-Parmigiano-Reggiano-Factory-Visit-Wine-and-Vinegar-Tasting-and-Lunch/d791-7174P1
- My partner loves biking; if you have suggestions for a bike tour or rental place in Tuscany or Bologna, would love to hear it

Posted by
7278 posts

On September 4, instead of heading to Bologna immediately, I would recommend taking a food tour in Modena with Caterina Schenetti Food Tour Experiences. You can even find her on FB, using that title and correspond with her directly. She returned my Messenger PM’s very quickly. No reason to go to Bologna and then have a food tour that you are describing that would be driving back to the Modena/Parma area.

Also, just a note that Viator is just a “middle man” company. They don’t run a tour company; they just sell tickets to other people’s tours. It’s always best to reserve a tour with the actual group running the tour and usually a better price deal for both you & the people providing the tour.

There’s lots of options for biking in your itinerary. One option is this one, which was located very close to my Montepulciano hotel near the top of the city. They have ebikes and lots of helpful features & info. I think they might have even offered some bike tours; check their website for current info.

http://www.urbanbikery.it/

Posted by
7278 posts

At the risk of adding a slightly off your itinerary idea, I will be back in several of the cities in that area in June. I am probably going to take the bike tour in Parma that goes out to castle of Torrechiara after stopping at a Parmesan factory & vineyard with lunch. Google the castle & interior fresco photos - looks perfect for part of a bike destination! If you’re interested, I will try to find the link to it.

Posted by
23 posts

Thank you both!

Jean--will definitely connect with Caterina, whose instagram looks great! Going to someone directly is ideal, but I wasn't sure how to find someone good and reliable, so I really appreciate this recommendation! I will check out your bike provider recommendation as well. If it's not too hard to find the link, learning more about the Parma bike tour would be great. I'll keep an eye out in case you post a trip report about it too :)

Thank you for the tour company rec, Sjs! That's exactly the kind of tour we were looking for. We might do that + a tour with Caterina of the markets and local shops in Modena, depending on what she recommends.

Posted by
27104 posts

in 2015 I took the walking tour of the historic center offered by the Bologna tourist office. It was good.

Edited to add: The Modena-Bologna trip is one on which you have a choice between regional trains and faster/more costly trains. In this case the distance is so short that you don't save much time by taking the faster trains. If you go to trenitalia.com and input your origin, destination and travel date, you can easily distinguish among the different types of trains. Check out the labels above the departure times. Regionals will be labeled either "R" (regular regionals) or "RV" (regionals that don't make as many stops and therefore cover the distance somewhat more quickly). The fast trains will be labeled either "IC" or "ICN" (InterCity/InterCity Night) or "Freccia..." (Frecciarossa or Frecciargento). Or, even easier, just look at the fare. If the fare is 3.85 euros, you're looking at a regional train. Most of the trains are regionals.

Always pay attention to the travel time. I see there's an InterCity train that takes 34 minutes for the trip; I don't know what's going on there, because the slowest regional trains take only 32 minutes. And you'd pay 9 euros for that IC train!

Posted by
7295 posts

I am not trying to change your plans, but I want to note that we enjoyed several wineries that have proprietary fine dining restaurants (some, only for lunch) that include tastings with the meal. We told our hotel to select and reserve them for us, and we saved our shopping for after lunch, so we could drink a modest amount of wine, not trying to get the "best value" out of the tastings! Our favorite was Avignonesi, but there are many. Had to reserve and pay in advance. We had a rental car. Our least favorite was Antinori. The food was fine, and the astounding property just like a modernistic James Bond villain's estate. But it was just too big, too crowded, and too pompous.

(We have our large meal at lunch, anyway.)