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Second thoughts about the Amalfi Coast. Opinions, please

Hi all:

We are a party of 4 (57,47,26,25) that will arrive at the port of Naples via cruise ship in May 2024 from 6:30a-4:30p. There will be three other ships in port that day for a total of 12,000+. My plan was to book a tour to the Amalfi Coast but with that information and some of what I have read on these boards I am reconsidering and am looking for a plan B.

Based on what I have read elsewhere, I had originally decided to forego Sorrento, however, it seems that many of you here are fond of it. My main concern is that a visit to Positano, Ravello, Amalfi for one day with that many ships in port will be gridlock, wall to wall people and an unpleasant situation, especially considering our limited time in port. Am I right in my assumption?

I would be extremely for any thoughts and information you can provide. We are not big on shopping. We are very easy going and are just looking for a beautiful day with lovely scenery, maybe a nice meal and some limoncello for mom. We are open to DIY or tours.

Thank you in advance,

Lisa

Posted by
4424 posts

I don't feel like Sorrento has the wow factor of the Amalfi Coast villages. People likely respond positively to it because they used it as a base for several days--sun and salt air can do that!
Any interest in Naples? A city can absorb crowds a lit better than a tiny village can, and honestly the transport logistics of the Amalfi Coast would be stressful to me with the time pressure, unless you booked a cruise excursion. and did not do it independently. No one should be susceptible to motion sickness if you are hiring a driver.
Early May is not like summer, so I would expect bustling but not overwhelmed. What are your options?

Posted by
18 posts

I can do a tour via a private company. I have researched several. I just don't want to be stuck in traffic for just a 40 minute stop in a few places. I don't want to spend most of my day in a car. I hate to miss it but it seems like it will almost not be worth it. I could be wrong.

I am not sure about Naples. I would be open to it I suppose.

Thank you for replying.

Posted by
4424 posts

I guess some people would consider the drive part of the fun (I would not, lol--I want to be in the hills, not driving among them). I think you should look on Cruise Critic forum and maybe see what people who visited in shoulder season say.
Naples is full of things to see (I leave out archaeological museum since you are not interested in Pompeii, but there is significant art--Caravaggio, Veiled Christ statue, the underground, the old town is fun itself), so it really just depends on what you want. The waterfront is pretty, and you may spot a glimpse of Vesuvius, but if you just want pretty/easy, then maybe Sorrento is the ticket.

Posted by
4750 posts

You are very wise and have done your homework! We were just in the area in May, and would not do the AC drive again. We had a private driver, but still the roads and AC towns were congested.

What about finding a walking tour of Sorrento, having lunch ( so many great options, almost everywhere, ) and gelato at David's ( by the Sorrento train station.) They're limoncello tastings in so many small shops that are all around. David's has gelato- making classes, perhaps check their schedule on line. A walking tour guide will have many suggestions for additional explorations.

Enjoy your day in Sorrento. I love just wandering around the town, and it's flat for easy walking.

Safe travels!

Posted by
4114 posts

I don't feel like Sorrento has the wow factor of the Amalfi Coast
villages. People likely respond positively to it because they used it
as a base for several days--sun and salt air can do that!

We spent 11 days in Sorrento in April and this is a good description. It's a hub to get to the blockbuster sites such as Capri, Amalfi Coast and Pompeii.

In 2014 we had a cruise stop in Naples and did a tour that included the Amalfi Coast. We don't regret it, but more than half your time will be in a car or bus. We did a full day tour from Sorrento in April and even from there, 4.5 hours of a 9 hour tour was in a vehicle. The best you can hope for off of a port stop in Naples is to understand that you'll get a taste of anywhere you choose to go that may give you a desire for a longer stay on another trip.

Posted by
18 posts

I don't think I want 4.5 hours in a car. The others in my group do not care one way or the other. A mixed blessing I suppose.

So, to explore Naples would I just get off the ship or is there transportation involved? How about getting to Sorrento? Is there a preferred method of travel?

Thank you all so far for your replies. I have lots to learn.

Posted by
4750 posts

Note- the AC towns were heavily congested this past mid-May, during the week, on a rainy day. May is no longer shoulder season for the area.
Sorrento, however, just had a pleasant buzz, not shoulder- shoulder crowds.
Safe travels!

Posted by
4424 posts

Check your cruise itinerary to see docking information. The historic core of Naples is very walkable.
There are ferries from Naples to Sorrento (see Sorrento Insider website for schedules). There is also a commuter train from the central train station, and a taxi there from the port would not be significant. (You can take the Campania Express or the Circumvesuviana train--ferry would be preferable).

Posted by
23281 posts

The above advice is good but you don't have that much time with a 4.30 departure. On our last cruise ship visit we took a cab from the port to the museum. IMO because i am a big history nut, the museum is great. Has all of the items from Pompeii. Loved the room that used to require special permission from the Pope to visit. We spent half a day, till early PM, in the museum and slowly walked back to the port. Along the way back had a pizza and later a beer with a little street watching. There are a couple of minor, historical building as you approach the harbor that are worth a peek. It was crowded but Naples, overall, is interesting. I think you could time it to hit the museum when it first opens and adjust you day to be back on board by 4pm.

Posted by
16 posts

Hi - I believe the Naples port, Molo Beverello, is where the cruise ships dock and it is also where you can catch the local ferries to Sorrento and Capri. It's been 8-10 years, but we just walked off the cruise ship and easily walked over to the ferry terminal area and bought tickets to Sorrento - 45 minutes across the Bay of Naples. Maybe purchase ferry tickets in advance online if possible?
Sorrento is a charming town to explore - you could easily fill your day enjoying the ambience, eating, enjoying the view of the Bay and Mt Vesuvius, and shopping for limoncello (everywhere). Sorrento is one of my 'makes me happy' places in Italy...

Posted by
7321 posts

You haven't discussed the danger of missing the "all aboard" time. Is the ship to be docked, or is it a Tender Port for you? What do the ship excursions look like? Do you hate the price, or that they are "ship excursions?" You don't mention Pompeii (which can be hot and sunny even in May - but you do mention greenery and landscape. In the end, Positano is also about luxury shopping, which you don't care about. I'm not as big on Sorrento as some are; It's a purpose-built, postwar resort town, mostly reinforced concrete low-rise buildings, plus some taller hotels. The true Amalfi Coast is much more attractive.

Just because it hasn't been brought up, I'd consider booking a black car for the day, to take you overland (not along the coast) to Ravello. There are at least two luxury restaurants there you could pre-book to make sure you have a nice lunch. You want Delizia al Limone (a desert), not so much Limoncello, which you can buy in any liquor store at home.

NOTE: Ravello is very small. This recommendation is also good for limited mobility, which is NOT your requirement. But it has a few things to see, and spectacular views, better than Positano. I think it's safer for returning in time because you won't be on the coast road. Just another idea. Read up on Ravello before taking my .... suggestion .... not "advice." I should admit that our black car (from Sorrento for 8 hours) did Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and two non-town view points, with an hour or more free time in each town. You don't have that luxury, I think.

EDIT: Referring to ferries and to Sorrento, one advantage of Sorrento (as opposed to the more remote Amalfi Coast) is that (cruise-wise) you have an alternative cheap trip back, on the gritty, crowded and hot Circumvesuviana commuter train, rather than by ferry - in case the ferry is full or cancelled by rough water. However, the Sorrento marina is far from the train station. Last option is a taxi or black car to Naples, probably 125 Euros or so.

Posted by
1625 posts

That is such a short time to be in port, by the time the Tinder hits land you could be looking at 9:30. I would book an excursion with the cruise ship if possible, to ensure they don't leave without you. If you hire a private driver and get stuck in the famous Amalfi coast grid lock you could miss your ship, or be worried that you will all day long.

Either way with that short of time you are looking at a lovely taste of the coast, like you mentioned some beautiful scenery, a nice meal and bottle of limoncello, which sounds like perfect port day.

Posted by
2304 posts

hey hey christiansmom1
my own opinion is spend the day in naples. we took a day trip from rome to naples, one of our favorite/fun things to see and do. it is gritty/dirty/old world architecture/fun street alleys to explore/many street food options/seeing different lifestyles around the city, lively food markets with local crafts & produce, lots of history, some may say chaotic but all worth seeing this vibrant city. you either love it or hate it, with people who've never been there and only listen to what others read about. go have fun
your time off the ship will not be that long with exactly what time off the ship (docked or tendered), so many people with the other ships in port (thinking many will want to do pompei in the heat, go to amalfi coast with many cars/taxis/buses on that crowded road and stressing out to get back to ship)
tours that may interests your gang:
culinarybackstreets.com
naples. click or search "state of the stomach 2018"
withlocals.com/naples
city highlights tour: naples city tour or off the beaten track: materdei tour
pick your guide and enjoy roaming thru some areas that may have less tourists. read the plans of what they do and see. funny story, we were in a street market, local woman up on balcony above shop rings bell, lowers basket with euros & list, owner picks her items into basket, rings bell and up goes the basket, now that's service with a few laughs.
getyourguide.com
look at what kind of tours are available, you have time to research and ask your "tribe" to look also.
toursbylocals.com
look what's available in town. lots of walking, people watching, stopping for a drink and goody. don't forget to taste their "known pizza and sfogliatella or baba pastry"
many shops around will be selling lemonicello, some in pretty bottles, small and large. be careful to wrap it well so no breakage.
years ago, never heard of it, went to a spirit store in rome and tasted so much, was so good but thank gosh our apt was near the shop. now my friend makes homemade with lemons from her tree for christmas gifts.
i know some are 3rd party resellers for some tickets. we have used a few of them in different european cities without any issues/problems and enjoyed the guided tours learning more.
be close to your cruise ship port if having lunch or drinks and a snack, many places close about 2-3pm for their rest time and reopen at 5ish or later. other cruisers will do the same thing or you'll see many rushing to get back on board.
hope this gives you and the gang examples of what you can see and do with having a good time
aloha

Posted by
18 posts

Amazing responses so far! I have a lot to think about. Now for a question totally off topic. Is there a way to reply to a specific post on this forum? My kids could probably figure it out but I'm embarrassed to ask.

Posted by
2304 posts

hey hey christiansmom
LOL don't be embarrassed here. if you don't ask you'll never know
click on posters name in blue. click send private message, write what you want then send.
they will get an email from forum "you have a message" easy peasy
aloha

Posted by
18 posts

Thank you again for all the replies. To answer a few questions, we are docking vs. tendering and yes, I have considered the short time frame we are in port and the "what ifs" of not making it back in time to the ship. That is something I have had literal nightmares about as I have seen people left behind in the Caribbean.

The ferry option is appealing to me and my husband as he loves all things water. I did look at the ferry schedule and it shows that the earliest to Sorrento leaves at 9am. I know I am not looking at my actual date and was just doing a mock booking but is that the norm or does it ever run earlier? With a 630 am docking time, it would be great to leave earlier if we choose this option. Will I need additional transportation once off the ferry or will we be within walking distance? Would it be the same for the return?

I am exploring Naples and Ravello as well, based on your great suggestions. Does anyone have a car service they can recommend?

Thank you,

Lisa

Posted by
1091 posts

Ravello is my favorite town on the AC. But it’s an hour and a half each way by private taxi. If you’re ok with that much time in the car, then by all means I would encourage it. These guys are fantastic and €140 each way
https://www.ravellotaxi.com/

Have you thought about Procida? It’s a 40 minute ferry from Naples and could be a fun alternative to trying to reach the AC.

Posted by
4750 posts

We used Aldo Limos this past May. Christina, in the office, is a Brit, so communication is easy. She actually accepted USD with a very fair exchange rate.

The only problem with ferries is the weather. If a storm comes in, they don't run.

Good luck!

Posted by
700 posts

Any thoughts about going to Procida? Does the cruise offer a trip there?

Posted by
5399 posts

Is there a way to reply to a specific post on this forum? My kids
could probably figure it out but I'm embarrassed to ask.

@christiansmom1

Princess told you how to reply to a poster not a post. I think you mean to ask how can you respond to a specific answer within a post.

With this forum, it is not possible to do that, you just have to add your reply to the bottom. That said, many people in their responses write a reference, usually the name with an @ (see above), to the specific post they are responding to.

Or sometimes people copy and paste the specific answer in their reply and then add comments to it. You can also highlight the pasted text and click the " above to make it appear in quotations, like I have done above.

Does that make sense? Is that what you are asking?

Also, to answer your original question, I would go to Pompeii for the day and then have a pizza in Naples.

Posted by
76 posts

Given your limited time, it would be a shame to try and rush through the Amalfi coast with one eye on the clock. It requires at least a 2 night stay with Sorrento as an excellent base. I have 2 suggestions:

1) Spend the day in Sorrento. It is one of my favorite small cities to get lost in the old center city area, and it has great views of the Bay of Naples.

2) If you have never been to Pompeii, it's a great half day excursion. Book a 2 hr personal tour, and then wander on your own for a couple more hours. I would then head back to Naples and find a 'nice' neighborhood to hang out. Rick's books has many options for Naples.

Posted by
258 posts

Will your ship cruise past Capri and Amalfi anyway? I am almost sure the answer is yes.

If so, I'd do as others have suggested - spend the day exploring Naples, and finding the very best pizza spot.
You will already have seen the most beautiful Amalfi views - from the water. Although I really did enjoy the public bus ride from Amalfi to Positano. Twisty turny and full of beautiful cliffside scenery.

Posted by
18 posts

@April @SJS Procida looks beautiful. The ship does not offer any excursions there but it looks easy enough to do on my own.
@Emily - yes, that's what I was asking and thank you. I'm happy that Princess shared a way for me to email as well.

I spent some time watching videos of Sorrento, Ravello, Naples and Procida last night and they all look like places we would enjoy.

With regard to the ferry and it possibly not running, would I have any options to grab transportation at the port to any of these locations (other than Naples - I know that's close) or would we be on our own? I am going to try to get my son and his wife to weigh in. My son is airborne Air Force so he travels constantly and I know he wants some chill time. This stop will be the second to last stop of our 10 day cruise with 2 days in Rome before and after so maybe something relaxing would be the best choice.

Posted by
18 posts

@Joan if that is the case, I will most likely be satisfied although I am considering a trip to Ravello. We port in Florence after this stop. Does this make it likely? Would this be on the incoming or outgoing? As you can tell, it has been well over 30 years since I have been in Europe. :)

Posted by
4424 posts

To complicate matters, you have three island options--Capri (probably loo long), Ischia, and Procidda ferries--I would check the schedules for all three. I am liking the Procida suggestion!

I provided the name of the two trains that go to Sorrento earlier--Campania Express and Circumvesuviana.

Posted by
656 posts

This thread has already covered most of my ideas. And while I LOVE Ravello & it would be my first choice along the Amalfi Coast, it is an expensive & time consuming one compared to just staying put in Naples. Having said that, sounds like your son might like a more chill atmosphere, have you asked your travel companions for their input? Very good point that you're going to see the Amalfi coast from the ship. And actually, for those who don't want to actually visit Pompeii, the Archeological museum might still be delightful & it's great you're watching some videos about the various locations. Here's an excellent thread on Sorrento, with some details about how to get there & back, might be helpful. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/12-nights-in-italy-jul-aug-2023-trip-report-part-2-sorrento

Posted by
23281 posts

I would be careful about depending on ferries when traveling on your own. In the summer there is always the possibilities of storms on the bay that can slow down or delay ferry's schedules. Your ship will not wait for you.

Posted by
16 posts

I have found the cruisecritic.com website very helpful when trying to decide what to do in port, how to get from here to there, tour guide suggestions, is there enough time to do this etc. Click on "boards" in the top right corner and then scroll down to "ports of call" and then click on the region/country you are interested in.

Posted by
352 posts

So many suggestions:
We spent 10 days on the coast last September. Amalfi is congestion haven, though they manage it very well. I do not recommend any driving. If you want scenery, I recommend a short ferry ride to Capri...do not go into Capri town but grab a taxi up to Anacapri and beat the crowd. There is a lovely small chapel with mosaic floor, see the Villa of San Michele and take the chair lift to the top of the mountain and walk down. I think it is the most beautiful spot on earth! It would be a lovely relaxing day and very different than Naples.

Posted by
27142 posts

If you decide to stay in Naples to see the excellent archaeological museum, you should be able to see the Veiled Christ at the nearby Capella Sansevero as well. It's not far away--and slightly downhill, as I recall. However, you'd need to get the Capella Sansevero ticket in advance. Those tickets do sell out for a week or more at a time. I won't try to predict how early you'd need to buy that ticket for a May visit. You can buy online.

Posted by
15585 posts

Check out cruisecritic.com !! I haven't done any cruising for over a decade, but back then . . . you can find your specific cruise (I think it's the "roll-call" section. There are sure to be experienced cruisers on your ship who are already putting together their own small tours and discussing other independent touring options for each port of call.

The allure of the Amalfi Coast is not in the byways of the villages themselves (with the exception of Ravello and hiking trails - neither of which you really have time for) but in the scenic beauty of the mountainsides and the picturesque-ness of the villages nestled on them. You'll have great views - maybe the best - from the sea on a ferry. So you may find that you can join one of those private tours or even put together one of your own by boat.

Naples itself is a very interesting place to wander, lots of art, history, and character. The RS guide has a good self-guided walking tour.

Posted by
2304 posts

hey hey christiansmom1
happy emily was spot on with helping on the @poster. didn't even think of it until she told you. yeah when you reply with @ may have few more posts before yours.
where does your cruise depart from and end at? make sure to check ports:
rome civitavecchia is a little over an hour from rome, we took a taxi (140 euros ouch) but had a protest in town with streets all blocked off with cops everywhere. many missed ship that day. not a pretty sight, they had to fly to barcelona OUCH
florence: either livorno or la spezia which is a 2+ hour train ride to florence. maybe look for a boat ride for your husband here
tripsavvy.com/10 top things to do in livorno
tourinbatello.livorno.it
we registered on cruisecritic.com years back, register, click boards, click forums, click roll calls then your ship.
you can post questions, with others onboard. we did a meet/greet in venice (departure city) at a local bar/restaurant with about 12 of us. it was fun, then next day we did a "sailaway party" on top deck. did a cabin crawl to see different cabins (even had crackers/cheese in room, they had their glasses of drinks), slot pull, martini tasting at one of the bars, shared private tours at ports, people signed up (we wanted small 4-6 only) divided costs, let guide decide where to take us and get us back to ship before sailing away.
the driver/guides are very familiar with times, we enjoyed what we saw. we were on a 7 day greek island cruise with a stop in split croatia and the rest was greek islands.
don't know what other ports you're at, may say "main city" (like venice is ravenna nowdays which is 2 hours train ride with connections). read and heard some friends complain about ports further than expected, and cost. just an FYI
check how many ships in port like you have, add all those people up, and how busy and crowded trains will be, lots of pushing/shoving, been there done that. so sad with the rudeness, i'm the kickback go with the flow and sometimes slow motion.
have fun, enjoy, get the family involved with what's available at ports and what will let them "kickback". always something different to do or see in each place
aloha

Posted by
3247 posts

My favorite place on the Amalfi Coast (circa 2022) was Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Your ship arrives at 6:30 and your next stop is Livorno, so I'm guessing that you will cruise past the Amalfi Coast in the darkness before dawn. Maybe you could do a tour that will take you to Amalfi by boat, and then provide private transportation to Ravello, and the reverse back to Naples.

We used Askos for tours from Pompei as opposed to Naples, but they offer a lot of options, and I highly recommend them.

https://www.askostours.com/page/naples-capri

Posted by
656 posts

First, if the group wants to stay in Naples, that's the easiest! IF you really want to see a bit of the AC without the hassles of treacherous roads, Villa Cimbrone is in Ravello is magnificent. You could skip the coastline's difficult navigation entirely & get a RT car service to Ravello via the A3, with tolls but only 1 hour 7 minutes from Naples, perhaps a bit longer from ferry terminal. Take a walk around Ravello, a stroll in the Villa Cimbrone to the parapet which has MAGNIFICENT views out over the Med looking down on AC, have a leisurely lunch & get back to the ship early.