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Sardinia + The Cilento + Castelli Romani = wish list

A friend and I are planning a return to Italy next spring for approx. 3 to 3-1/2 weeks. We've both visited Italy many times. Ideally, I like to base in a region for about a week and explore. We understand that April/May is not swimming weather, but we do love being by the sea. We like beautiful small towns and easy walks with great scenery. We're two active, retired women who have traveled all over the world. We don't need to see any more museums unless it's a supremely unique one. We speak Italian, love good food, good wine, good coffee, and train travel. We generally just wander and soak up the local vibe. I enjoy driving in Italy - my friend will not - so I would have to be our sole driver.

After lots of research, here's a summary of my Google map pins and my thoughts....please comment with your experiences and suggestions:
Fly from U.S. into Cagliari, Sardinia, stay 6-7 nights (where to base/see?). Neither of us has been here.
Fly from Cagliari to Rome Ciampino or Naples (depending on flight schedule), train to Acciaroli, pickup rental car.
Base in/near Acciaroli for 6-7 nights and explore the Cilento coast and mountains. (Also new to this area)
Drop off car and Train to Caserta for 1 night to visit the royal palace. (We visited Naples last year but couldn't fit in Caserta. Been to Pompeii and Herculaneum.)
Train to Castelli Romani (We did a day trip to Frascati last year and loved it there.). Where to base for 6-7 nights?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Posted by
69 posts

I feel like Acciaroli is a little far south for the Cilento Coast. We stayed in a great little town called Agropoli (on a train line) and then from there went to Paestum (by train) and then another day took a bus to Santa Maria di Castellabate. We also were able to visit Ascea by train, and there is a lovely beach there. Keep in mind that some of those mountains you want to visit are quite remote and don't necessarily have the "infrastructure" that you see in the United States. For example, we wanted to hike in the Diana National Park in the Cilento region, but it's not really a hiking type of area, more like a designated forest area without groomed trails, etc...We never found any way to get into a "park", but it was still an adventure.

I would be happy to share more of our experience with you, send me a message if you want. It's a lovely area and at the time we went in 2018 (first trip) and a return in 2019, it was off the beaten tourist route. There was only one guy we found in Agropoli that spoke english and he happened to work at the little supermarket near where we stayed. He and my husband made fast friends, we were there for 12 nights.

Posted by
769 posts

Not to make things more complicated for you, but I think I like Maratea more than the parts of the Cilento I've seen....(I've spent the longest at Villa Sirio in Sta Maria Castellabate... I just did not really feel the overall ambiance of the town.seemed very touristed and businesses all geared to tourists (Palinuro is much worse on that aspect)

But you should not take much from my comments..........I was only in SM Castellabate for maybe four nights...went to the beach adjacent, drove to Vannulo near Paestum for the cheese and buffalo tour, and their great eats.........important to know is that the couple I traveled with were not on the same travel wavelength as I was...this was about 2016 or so........flew into Lamezia and drove up the coast..more info if anyone requests..

Nothing and no place could be "bad" in Italy, in my limited opinion.

Just take a peek at Maratea......agree it's further of a drive but see what you think and if sea swimming is importnt.

Posted by
41 posts

Thank you both for responding. My friend and I made a slight tweak to our plans. We swapped Sardinia for Sicily. We'll spend 3 nights in/around Palermo to visit Cefalu and Monreale, then 4 nights in/around Siracusa (with a day trip to Noto). Then we'll take the train/ferry combo up to Agropoli. Yes, it's a long-ish ride, but we'll see some of Calabria's scenery along the way.
We booked 7 nights based in Agropoli with daytrips to Paestum, Santa M. di Castellabate, etc. Then a train to Caserta and overnight to visit the Royal Palace. Ending with train to Castel Gandolfo as a base for 7 nights. (My friend was very interested in spending time in the Castelli Romani as research for a longer stay in the future. It isn't particularly on my wishlist, but I'm happy to be anywhere in Italy....plus, I know the area is famous for the porchetta in Ariccia.)
@ekscrunchy - If it works out, I'd like to get to Maratea from Agropoli.
@susanking39 - thanks for the heads-up about the parks/trails.
Any other thoughts/suggestions?

Posted by
69 posts

@YoPhilly - Please do update how you like Agropoli, my husband and I both loved it. There is a winery close by that we went to and the woman of the house put up a fabulous feast for just the two of us. Really good wine and very nice people.

Vini Marino: Via Fontana Saracena N. 1, Agropoli Italy, 84043

+39 0974 821719

We called/emailed ahead of time and made reservations.

Posted by
511 posts

Great to see the Cilento Coast getting some attention. Its been a while since I was there, more than 15 years I think. Stayed in San Marco di Castellabate - much smaller than Santa Maria. At an hotel overlooking the harbour. Was just lovely.

From memory, we did a boat trip along the coast. Visited Paestum and Elia Velia (neither were great, just OK). Did a long day's road trip up to Amalfi and Ravello. Also, there was a buffalo farm, where there was terrific ice cream. And could do a long walk along the beach between San Marco and Santa Maria and get a local bus back. We wanted to go to Salerno, but just didn't have enough days.

I remember the food being great. Its an area I've been planning to go back to for ages as I think we only touched the surface.