My wife and I are both artists, avid walkers, culture enthusiasts, looking to spend about three weeks in Sardinia in May. We've driven in Greece and Sicily before. Found the Greek islands easy going. Wonder how Sardinia will be? Our plan: begin in Alghero, four days, rent car, do some hiking near Capo Cacchio. Drive coastal route to Bosa. Stay three days. Drive to a town near Oristano, stay three days for a coastal walk, bird watching, Santa Cristina Nuraghe. Drive to Nuoro, three days. Then Dorgali five nights, which w hope is a good base to explore west coast sea and mountains. Any advice about driving and places on our itinerary would be appreciated.
Gave some info in the thread below in the past.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/sardinia-a4b6bf34-12f0-4f41-aa46-cc7c08ab1f7f
Most roads along the coast are two lane highways. There are 4 lane freeways but mostly connecting the major cities and they tend to be in the interior.
Learn the European signs
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Road_signs_in_Italy
They are mostly self explanatory symbols.
Just keep an eye on the ZTL sign (zona traffico limitato) in historical centers. Those areas are permitted only to residents with permit and service vehicles.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_traffic_zone
Other than that, not a big deal to drive in Sardinia. You will be largely on country roads with not heavy traffic unless you go there in July and August when lots of tourists are there, or near Cagliari, the largest city. There will be occasional speed cameras, so keep an eye on the speed limits too. Speed is enforced by cameras and just because you don’t see a cop, it doesn’t mean the cops can’t see you.
Use Waze navigator, which warns about upcoming speed cameras.
https://www.waze.com/wiki/UnitedKingdom/Speed_Cameras
We spent a week in Sardinia last August. We stayed on the west coast, in a small village called Pistis. It was great for spending time on the beach.
We also liked Oristano and Bosa. What is the town near Oristano? San Salvatore or San Giovanni? Are you going to visit the Sinis penisula. There is a nice walk from San Giovanni to the lighthouse. Plus there is the Spanish Tower and the archeological site to walk around in.
As mentioned the driving is not too difficult. The road from Bosa to Alghero is a windy coast road, but very beautiful.
Just wondering, when you say you are going to spend time in Dorgali then explore the west coast, did you mean the east coast?
Here is the second part of my trip report. lt relates to the Oristano, Bosa and Porto Torres. You may find something use full there.
Thanks, read your posts with interest. I DID mean Dorgali and east coast, NOT west coast!
While you are based in Alghero it's worth visiting the coast in the Porto ferro and Argentiera area. From Argentiera beach you can walk north along the coast. It's quite wild so make sure you have water etc with you. This was our day there last year but a few years ago we did a longer hike in the same place.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com/2025/02/madrid-in-january-day-4-botanical.html
When you are in Dorgali, a little to the north is the Bidderosa Oasi nature reserve - it's spectacular. There are limited daily accesses so you have to book in the summer - not sure now in May. When we went a few years ago we parked at the entrance and then hiked to the beach.... we were the only people around, maybe busier now but not many people in May definitely.
https://www.oasibiderosa.it/en/
Do you plan on hiking just along the coast or also in the mountains?
We spent three weeks in Sardinia last May and are returning again this May for three weeks. Last year we as you are stayed mainly north and will again this time. A good resource for Sardinia is Jeff Biggers' book, In Sardinia, an Unexpected Journey in Italy, he spent a year traveling the island and getting to know its history and culture. He and his family lived in Alghero while there.
I think your itinerary is good. Here are some places to see if you are interested. The giant statues at the Mont'e Prama in Calbras near Oristano. They were only recently found, are fascinating. Sassari near Alghero has several small museums including one dedicated to artifacts of bronze age. Nuoro, which is considered the literary capital of the island, has the Museum of Man which is dedicated to art of the island and capturing its people, the home of Grazia Deleda's who won the Nobel Prize for literature, a walking tour of Salvatore Satta's story, The Day of Judgement. Lastly another resource I have found helpful is Claudia Tavani's website, Strictly Sardinia, she gives great insights into the culture and life of the island. Have a great trip!
Grazie mille, everybody! All of your comments and recommendations have helped us plan our May trip to Sardinia. Roberto's driving, parking, road sign information we found xlnt, as well as speed-camera caution. Liked the specifics in Lindstrom's post with trip report link. And Tinac, thanks for the Argentiera suggestion; we had considered that area. Might be wilder than the Porto Conte - Le Prigionette - Porto Ferro areas, which we thought could be ok for brief walks near Alghero after long flight from US. We hadn't heard of Bidderosa Oasi near Dorgali. Will check it out. Also wondering about hikes from Baunei. Ann, thanks for your spot-on advice. Those unique statues from Mont'e Prama! The Jeff Bigger's book we read last Christmas, wonderful sources in there. Thanks for bringing Salvatore Satta to our attention, too. The Deleda House and ethnographic (costume) museum in Nuoro have been on our list. And mask-maker villages around there. Recently, by chance (is anything by chance!?), we discovered Claudia Tavani's Strictly Sardinia site!
all of you, thanks again!
Two more questions:
Is it recommended that driver have an international driver's license for travel in Sardinia? During three trips to Greece in the last few years, we've never been asked. But maybe the policy is stricter in Sardinia?
are there any thermal springs in Sardinia worth visiting?
IDP is required in Italy; you will not necessarily be asked for it (but if an accident or traffic stop occurs, the fine for not having it is large). Some have reported being denied a car without it.
Can't wait to follow along on this one--hoping to get there myself!
We did get an international drivers license, but were never asked to show it. According to the car rental company you might be asked for it if you are stopped for a traffic violation. We will probably get one again this year.
Solid advice from both of you.
Thanks, we'll take it! It does seem like a traffic accident or stop by police cd have serious fines if no IDP.
Article 135 of the Italian Vehicle code requires an International Driver's Permit (IDP) or an official sworn translation of your license, of course together with your country's valid license, if you have a license issued outside the EU or the EEA (European Economic Area). The fine for not having one is a minimum of 408€.
I was never asked for one by the rental agency, but I was asked for it, when I was pulled over by the Carabinieri (twice) since I visited coming from the US (I was pulled over dozens times when I lived in Italy). I always had it, so no fine for me.
Unlike in the US, where the police has to have a reason (or a pretext) to pull you over, in Italy the police performs routine random stops all the times for no reason, just to check motorists. Usually the Carabinieri or the Police will be on the side of the road (usually behind a curve) and will pull you over by waving the magic red disk like in this photo. They will ask to see your driver's license, your car registration (Carta di Circolazione), and, in your case, the IDP or sworn translation. The Carta di Circolazione is much more than the Registration papers. It is a 4 page document which contains a lot of information about the vehicle, like owner, biannual mechanical revision, emissions information, mechanical information, etc. Make sure the rental company has included it in the glove compartment before you pull out of the rental place.
Greece no longer requires International drivers license if your license is in English. Italy does.
Good itinerary, leaving from Alghero. Definitely check out Jeff Biggers' book, IN SARDINIA, which Rick featured last year. Biggers also follows a similar direction and explores rarely seen places. Biggers was based in Alghero and is a historian and journalist. https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/720861/in-sardinia-by-jeff-biggers/