So. . .I'm reading Rick's book on Naples and the Amalfi Coast and he says "Perhaps the biggest risk of theft is while catching or riding the Circumvesuviana commuter train....For maximum safety and peace of mind, sit in the front car, where the driver will double as you protector." OK, this is freaking me out a little. My cousin and I will be traveling from Sorrento to Naples to go to the Archeological Museum. Should we take the ferry instead? Is it dangerous only IN Naples; is it safer between Sorrento and Pompeii or Herculaneum? Also, how safe is it to walk through Naples down the Spaccanapoli? Please advise. Thanks.
The Circumvesuviana between Sorrento and Pompeii will be filled with visitors like you. If you are there during term time it does get hectic at certain times with students going to and from school. During school holidays the young people going to the beach etc can be a bit lively.
It does change somewhat in nature after Pompeii but as has been said act sensibly and you should be ok. Have used the train over the last 30 years, last time a month ago, and have no hesitation in doing so.
It is a nice idea to go to Naples by ferry. Not so much from the safety angle but because you can't beat a boat trip on the Bay of Naples!
There is no need to sit next to the driver. The train is safe. No one will attack you. Just take the normal precautions to prevent pick pocketing and other theft.
As for getting to the Archeological museum, that's very easy too. The walk through the city, it's a very short walk, is easy and you shouldn't encounter any problems. Like in any other city, be aware of your surroundings and you'll be fine.
Donna
Don't be worried -- just be careful like everyone above says. I've read other warnings Rick has written like the one you mention -- maybe busy train stations -- I don't recall where. It's just a good warning of where not to be oblivious to your surroundings.
Our experience on the Circumvesuviana was no worse than some US cities. We didn't make it to Herculaneum, but we didn't think twice about it on our way to Pompeii.
Hi Kathy,
We took the circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento and as long as you watch your purse etc. you will be fine. The train get's quite crowded so my husband and I made sure that we were both holding our bags tightly and just watched each other. As long as you are aware of your surroundings you will be fine.
Have a great trip!
hi kathy,
i can totally relate to how you are feeling, i experienced the same anxiety last year on my first trip to sorrento via this train. granted, the train station in naples is a bit shady and waiting downstairs for the circum train i was worried..seen probably a handful of young men that you could tell had no business being there..but there weren't scary..very slight, tiny skinny guys, maybe 5'6 at the most..me being 5'9..i figured i would be ok..but you know what i did? started chatting to other tourists so they wouldn't think i was alone..and anyone that looked like a slim shady? i just stared them down...keep in mind, they don't want to acost you or be violent..they want to do it so quietly and sneaky that even you don't notice! so just look at them dead in the eye..trust me there are tourists a dime a dozen and if you are looking at them, as far as they are concerned, that is too much attn. they move on. when i boarded the train, i put my luggage on its side and propped my feet on it like a footrest..haha...try and take my stuff now! :)
i also used a cross front purse that had a ton of pockets zippers and clips..not the nicest looking thing (i think i bought it at walmart for $10) but it worked. half the time it was hard enough for me to find my own stuff in there so many compartments..good luck to any pickpockets. i figured if they could get through all those zippers, clips and pouches without me noticing-good for you, take it you deserve it!
don't worry have fun, i had the greatest time!
Rick warns people so they don't sail along without a care in the world and get their belongings stolen. But he paints much too dire a picture. I remember my 1st trip after reading all his warnings about pickpockets being common in places frequented by tourists, and that they could be dressed like businessmen or what have you. Sure enough on the train from the Rome airport to Termini I was sitting next to a well-dressed man who indicated I could put my bag in the overhead space instead of holding it tight in my lap. Sure that he was one of the thiefs I had been warned about I held it even tighter. And you know what? After several trips to Italy an d more familiarity I'd bet he was nothing more than a well-dressed man helping the dumb foreigner who didn't realize he could put the bag in the rack; it wasn't like he was going to grab it and jump off the train at 60mph!
I've taken the Circumvesuviana several times on 2 trips to Sorrento. Never had a problem, never saw a problem. Keep an eye on your bags, its better not to stand or sit right by the door where someone could jump off with them. But since you're going to the Archeological Museum you won't have bags; just wear a money belt and you'll be perfectly safe. We walked from the train station to the museum and its a nice walk; it reminds me of those old pictures of turn-of-the-century New York come to life. If you're concerned you could take the subway from the Naples train station right to the museum, but I'd suggest walking at least one of the ways (and stopping for pizza). In fact Ricks Naples stroll from his book is pretty nice.
After reading all of the horrible warnings about the Circumvesuviana, I was scared witless when I got on board. How wrong I was. It was fine.
This discussion always reminds me of our trip through the area. We actually started in Bari, taking a train to Naples and on to Sorrento. Over the course of the trip, we chatted with a couple of older American ladies, then a family from Canada, then another American couple, all who expressed the same concerns about the Naples train station and the Circumvesuvia, and carrying a certain book. In the end, all was fine, I did look a bit like tour guide, taking the group through the station, showing I duess that safety in numbers is always an option.
We fans of Rick sometimes tend to hang on his every word .. and sometimes read too much into it. A couple of months ago I was worried about his comment that visitors to Chartres would be looking at scaffolding when they viewed the interior -- due to renovation. Well there was some scaffolding, but the Cathedral is about as big as a football field, so it was entirely unobtrusive! Similarly I was freaked out the first time I went to Barcelona due to his warnings about the Ramblas. Never had a problem -- but then I was forewarned and was careful. When my wife and I stayed in Sorrento in 2007, and took the train to Pompeii, we had no problems. If you are standing, hold your backback in front of you. Wear a money belt. You will be fine.
Petting theft is the main prob. Just be wise of your surroundings do not engage in conversation with strangers. keep your belongings close to you. Actually taking ferry from Naples is lovely and a good option, then taxi to Arch. museum in Naples. Do not freak out just listen to RS and proceed wisely.
We took our exchange student & her friend to Fishermans Wharf in San Francisco (your neighbor). The girl was pick pocketed crossing a busy street. Same rules apply in Italy. We've had stare downs with young gyspies in Rome and an attempt at a bus stop in Siena. Never had a problem in Naples or Sorrento. But you have to not be a target by being distracted or allowed to be jostled and have your items secure. We put our suitcases under our legs on the Circumvesuviana but it was really filled with students and commuters. I was also suspicious of two Italians on the train until I realized we had missed our transfer in Pompeii and they were working so hard to tell us that. We took the hydrofoil from Sorrento to Naples for the day and really enjoyed walking to the museum and trying out pastries. Worse part was taxi back to the ferry with horrible cigarette fumes
We had no problems at all just be aware of surroundings as you would in any major city or transport keep money hidden at all times use money belt under shirt
Everyone, thank you so much for your responses! I feel MUCH better now reading all of your stories and advice. I was looking forward to walking through Naples and eating pizza and pastries, etc. but was beginning to wonder if it was a good idea. Now I will just take precautions and enjoy! Thank you all.
What everyone else has already said.
However, I will add that on our trip last year a pick pocket tried me as I was boarding the Circumvesuviana in Naples. I had spotted him while we were waiting for the train so I was on alert. I felt his hand brush my wrist as he tried to get to my pants pocket so I clamped down hard against my hip. He yanked away his hand and backed off the train. He would not have gotten anything anyhow because the pocket was empty and my stuff was in my money belt. This was the only pick pocket attempt that I was aware of on our two week trip.