Our long awaited trip to Italy is now one week away. We'll be passing through Naples twice, once on the way from Rome to Sorrento and a few days later on the reverse trip. We had planned to stop for "the world's best pizza", but I've read the area around the train station is seedy and dangerous. Any recommendations on what restaurant to go to (west of train station?) and the best way for 6 people to get there?
A group of six should intimidate (or at least outnumber) all but the most brazen criminals. Seriously, you probably want to go to Da Michele, you could take a taxi or two from the station (make sure it's a legit cab with a taxi sign and number on it, don't accept any "skip the taxi line" offers.
Wow. Somebody from the Baltimore metro area, probably the most violent city in America on a per capita basis, and with a crime rate which is many many times the one in Naples, is afraid of Naples. I've been to Baltimore and compared to some parts of Baltimore even the Sanita' district in Naples (one of the worst) is Beverly Hills.
helpful comment !! I'm actually from New England, live in the suburbs in Baltimore and don't go into town much for the reason you describe. Nonetheless, still looking for solution to Naples question.
There are lots of pizza places - perhaps you can look at Trip Advisor for recommendations (my trip was a long time ago so I can't remember where I went). I'm a short, petite, single female who wandered around Naples solo - had no problems getting espresso or pizza or anything else (caveat, I do speak conversational Italian so that helped relieve any worries). Got around by foot and the metro. You'll probably be better off picking a place that serves locals (i.e. no English menus)- it's worth wandering to an area called the Spaccanapoli and its side streets. It's a great place to see the havoc of Naples and I'm sure you can just select a place to eat by checking it out by foot. By the way, not sure why Baltimore gets such a bad rap - sure, there are bad areas and also tons of interesting ones.
Michele at Forcella area and Brandi at Chiaia area.
Rob, I liked Decumani pizzeria on via Tribunali. You can walk there from the train station, it is not very close but walkable, also check out the streets and little piazzas around there as you walk, esp. the parallel street, Spaccanapoli ( name changes several times- you should have a map with you) is very intersting, and if you have time, visit Cappella Sansevero (has Veiled Christ sculpture), Santa Chiara church and it's tiled cloister in the back. Also, this area has multiple small shops, cafes, and other intersting sites. Just check the opening times for the Decumani pizzeria on the internet because it might be closed in the afternoon. I was there at 7 PM, and it was open. It is very safe there, kind of touristy (but I didn't see many American tourists for some reason).
Get a map of Naples and you'll be fine!
Been through Naples a number of times. I will confirm that it looks seedy and is. But, unlike the US where seedy and high crime rate go hand in hand, that is not the case in Europe. There are a lot of seedy areas that are fine. In fact I find some parts of Rome kind of seedy but never troubled by them.
I'll just throw out there that if eating pizza in Naples will require having to store luggage while you stop for lunch - and it sounds like it will - I had some fantastic pizza in Sorrento. A whole lot easier...and not too shabby for ambiance ;-)
thanks everyone for your comments. Eileeen - it's funny you say that, my wife keeps saying there must be some amazing pizza in all the other great cities in Italy we're going to, why do we have to make a special stop in Naples for pizza?? What's the name of the place in Sorrento? We'll be based there for 3 days.
No one place in Sorrento; I might find a couple of places where we ate if I spend some time with Google Streetview... Always listen to your wife.
The pizza from Da Michele is not like any other pizza you will have in Italy. Also consider these guys are kind of the originals. If it makes you feel any better I was there all by myself walking the streets at night and although there was a lot of commotion on the streets I never once felt threatened. Do yourself a favor and visit Da Michele.
Pizza is only one - and I wouldn't even say the top - reason for stopping off at Naples...so, at the risk of not listening to your wife, you should give Naples a try. It has a flavor all of its own - plus an amazing array of sites to see. By the way, if you want to trek out to Arlington, VA (much closer than Naples) there is a darn good Neopolitan pizza place called Pulpaltella. Sure tasted like Naples to me (but with horrible suburban strip mall context that's nothing like Naples).
I love Naples and have never had any problems. If you want a good pizza, ask a local person. That's the best way to find the best. Enjoy your trip!