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Rome - Trastevere

Headed to Rome later this month. We have been to Rome before but somehow have always missed the Trastevere neighborhood (our bad). We will not miss it this time, so looking for tips on things to do and restaurants in Trastevere. We love the non-touristy, smallish, out of the way restaurants if we can find them, but are open to other restaurants too if you have had a good experience at one recently. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

Posted by
1639 posts

We did an Eating Europe Trastevere food tour. Our guide had grown up in the Trastevere and it was a great way to learn about that section of Rome and experience some of the small family owned restaurants. We were there in the Spring so you will unfortunately miss the fried artichokes.

Posted by
8915 posts

The Trastevere has long been discovered, and there will be tourists at any restaurant (you included), but there are still lots of great places.

It has been a few years, and things change, but if I were to head there, here are some places to consider:

Da Enzo al 29: A great small place for solid Roman classics, including Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, artichokes, and more. They received quite a bit of attention some years ago from TV chefs and travel shows, but they never really let it get to their heads.

Ristorante la Scala: Solid old place, good pasta and seafood, always have a seasonal menu.

For pizza: There are several places, Ai Marmi, right on via trastevere is an old favorite, as is da Ivo a few blocks away. Dar Poeta is another favorite.

Gelato: Gelateria Alla Scala, is small, but great home made gelato. Otaleg was our new favorite, both traditional and some wild flavors, all organic.

But generally, I suggest wandering around, the section near the river and Piazza Santa Maria turns into a very vibrant scene in the evening, get a bit away from that and wander the side streets, you will find smaller places, if they look good, they probably are.

Posted by
12119 posts

Paul gave two great pizza recommendations. Ai Marmi is bare bones, traditional, super fast and excellent Roman pizza. Dar Poeta is another thing entirely in ambiance and gastronomy. I hope you get to try them both,

Posted by
2743 posts

hey hey SC Traveler
it's been awhile since we've been to trastevere which was quieter back then. nowdays many people are exploring the area.
here's a few sites you can check out for walking tours:
guruwalk.com
highlights of jewish ghetto & trastevere free walking tour. it's better to have a guide to learn more. a tip in cash euros
discoverwalks.com
click rome and tours listed, look at what they offer, take your pick
gpsmycity.com/ rome
download app, choose your self guided walk, "trastevere walking tour (self guided)"
we ate at carlo menta (carlomenta.it) on via della lungaretta across the tiber river. sat outside on a long family table you sit with others, us friends shared a pizza, pasta but not our yummy dessert of tartufo.
eatingeurope.com is mentioned many times here for excellent food tour (trastevere and testaccio) with fabulous reviews
don't know how many days you will spend, another kinda "quirky" place is quartiere coppede if interested away from the crowdss.
mamalovesrome.com/ how to visit quartiere coppede: rome's best kept secret
can't remember restaurants we just walked down an off alleyway and found a family restaurant without people outside hoping to leer you in, didn't like to have reservations if things happened not to get there. some swear by and some don't, it's your perogative.
do something different crowntours.com (paint and sip: painting class with pizza and unlimited wine
good luck, have fun and have gelato
aloha

Posted by
29502 posts

I recommend both Santa Maria in Trastevere and Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. Santa Cecilia's crypt is heavily decorated; at the time of my March 2023 visit, it closed in the late afternoon, considerably earlier than the church itself.

Posted by
144 posts

Pop into the bakery mentioned in Rick's Trastevere walking tour and on his Rome TV show. Great handmade treats. The proprietor has a picture on the wall of her and Rick. I stopped in a few times and bought some goodies. I can find the bakery name for you, if you need it.