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Rome - Trastevere

Headed to Rome later this month. We have been to Rome before but somehow have always missed the Trastevere neighborhood (our bad). We will not miss it this time, so looking for tips on things to do and restaurants in Trastevere. We love the non-touristy, smallish, out of the way restaurants if we can find them, but are open to other restaurants too if you have had a good experience at one recently. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

Posted by
1696 posts

We did an Eating Europe Trastevere food tour. Our guide had grown up in the Trastevere and it was a great way to learn about that section of Rome and experience some of the small family owned restaurants. We were there in the Spring so you will unfortunately miss the fried artichokes.

Posted by
8964 posts

The Trastevere has long been discovered, and there will be tourists at any restaurant (you included), but there are still lots of great places.

It has been a few years, and things change, but if I were to head there, here are some places to consider:

Da Enzo al 29: A great small place for solid Roman classics, including Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, artichokes, and more. They received quite a bit of attention some years ago from TV chefs and travel shows, but they never really let it get to their heads.

Ristorante la Scala: Solid old place, good pasta and seafood, always have a seasonal menu.

For pizza: There are several places, Ai Marmi, right on via trastevere is an old favorite, as is da Ivo a few blocks away. Dar Poeta is another favorite.

Gelato: Gelateria Alla Scala, is small, but great home made gelato. Otaleg was our new favorite, both traditional and some wild flavors, all organic.

But generally, I suggest wandering around, the section near the river and Piazza Santa Maria turns into a very vibrant scene in the evening, get a bit away from that and wander the side streets, you will find smaller places, if they look good, they probably are.

Posted by
12141 posts

Paul gave two great pizza recommendations. Ai Marmi is bare bones, traditional, super fast and excellent Roman pizza. Dar Poeta is another thing entirely in ambiance and gastronomy. I hope you get to try them both,

Posted by
2778 posts

hey hey SC Traveler
it's been awhile since we've been to trastevere which was quieter back then. nowdays many people are exploring the area.
here's a few sites you can check out for walking tours:
guruwalk.com
highlights of jewish ghetto & trastevere free walking tour. it's better to have a guide to learn more. a tip in cash euros
discoverwalks.com
click rome and tours listed, look at what they offer, take your pick
gpsmycity.com/ rome
download app, choose your self guided walk, "trastevere walking tour (self guided)"
we ate at carlo menta (carlomenta.it) on via della lungaretta across the tiber river. sat outside on a long family table you sit with others, us friends shared a pizza, pasta but not our yummy dessert of tartufo.
eatingeurope.com is mentioned many times here for excellent food tour (trastevere and testaccio) with fabulous reviews
don't know how many days you will spend, another kinda "quirky" place is quartiere coppede if interested away from the crowdss.
mamalovesrome.com/ how to visit quartiere coppede: rome's best kept secret
can't remember restaurants we just walked down an off alleyway and found a family restaurant without people outside hoping to leer you in, didn't like to have reservations if things happened not to get there. some swear by and some don't, it's your perogative.
do something different crowntours.com (paint and sip: painting class with pizza and unlimited wine
good luck, have fun and have gelato
aloha

Posted by
29672 posts

I recommend both Santa Maria in Trastevere and Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. Santa Cecilia's crypt is heavily decorated; at the time of my March 2023 visit, it closed in the late afternoon, considerably earlier than the church itself.

Posted by
147 posts

Pop into the bakery mentioned in Rick's Trastevere walking tour and on his Rome TV show. Great handmade treats. The proprietor has a picture on the wall of her and Rick. I stopped in a few times and bought some goodies. I can find the bakery name for you, if you need it.

Posted by
24 posts

Thank you all SO MUCH! A lot of really good suggestions. Rick Steves travelers are the greatest. We have Rick's walking tour downloaded in our app, so I will find that bakery. Appreciate the restaurant suggestions too. We have a week before we leave, so if anyone has any other suggestions, bring them on!

Posted by
15 posts

If you want a bit more local flavor, I would head over by the Piazza San Cosimato area of Trastevere. This is about a 10 minute walk from the main square of Santa maria in trastevere, but you can still find some local flavor as far as restaurants and bars.

Posted by
530 posts

Hi SC Traveler,
Will echo some of the other posters. We took an Eating Europe tour through Trastevere and it was fantastic. We got the lay of the land at the beginning of our stay then went back to some of the other great restaurants. Some specific restaurants we loved were Da Enzo (delicious) and Spirito di Vino. Really some of the best food I've had in Rome was in this neighborhood (though I'm not a Michelin restaurant person.) Take some time to wander through the streets to see what you happen upon. Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
7 posts

La Norcineria di Iacozzilli is a food market that serves amazing pork sandwiches.

This was on a food tour of Trastevere we took last month. I am not exaggerating when I say it was the best pork I have had in my life, and I live in the Southern US.

It is not a secret so there will be a line. We went at 2 pm and it was about 15 min wait. There were locals getting their meat and bread as well as tourists for the sandwiches.

The tour included this pizza stop. There are a couple of Rome locations but this is not an American style chain. Each location is a scratch kitchen. It was traditional Roman pizza with a thin first bite crunch followed by a nice chew if you know what I mean. The Trastevere location has a small seating area. They cut the amount you want and heat it up. Pictures do not do it justice.

Alice Pizza.

https://www.alicepizza.it/en/

Have a great trip!

Posted by
187 posts

A couple of food items not to be missed in Trastevere...

A porchetta panini at
La Norcineria di Iacozzilli, Via Natale del Grande, 15
https://www.facebook.com/people/La-Norcineria-di-Iacozzilli/100080485780557/

The Pollo alla cacciatora trapizzino and the Polpetta al sugo trapizzino at
Trapizzino | Trastevere, Piazza Trilussa, 46, just across pedestrian Ponte Sisto, behind the piazza
https://www.trapizzino.it/en/trapizzino/trapizzino-roma-trastevere/

Posted by
8964 posts

I guess I can add La Ranella, a smallish bakery with great pizza al taglio,

Posted by
972 posts

If you search for 'Trastevere' in this article, you should find 14 mentions for food, lodging, shopping, etc -
Travel 101 - Your Guide to Rome

Trastevere
Across the river from the Centro Storico, Trastevere has maintained a village-like feel with its stone bridges, fountain squares, cobblestone lanes and ivy-draped old houses. This picturesque backdrop, along with popular outdoor restaurants and laid-back bars, draws throngs of expats, travelers and students from nearby universities.
Best for: Romantics, couples, college kids.
Where to stay: Relais le Clarisse ($).
Things to do: Santa Maria in Trastevere; Janiculum Hill.
Where to eat and drink: Trattoria Da Teo ($$); L’Elementare ($).