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Rome, Sorrento, Pompeii, Almalfi Coast- tweaking our plans, and welcome your recommendations!

We're arriving in Rome on May 24, heading to Sorrento on the 25th, perhaps visiting Pompeii on the 26th, then the Amalfi Coast (perhaps boat to Amalfi and then on to Positano) on the 27th, with a bus ride back to Sorrento at night, maybe Capri on the 28th, then back to Rome that night. We head to the airport late in the afternoon on the 29th.

The 24th is our 27th wedding anniversary, and we're finally celebrating our 25th anniversary (and 26th and 27th) as we didn't do much at the time. We realized that we're at the bucket list stage of life, and my husband has long wanted to visit Pompeii. I was happy when my husband said what I'd been thinking about Rome: we don't care about seeing the "sights" per se, as we've done that before (we last visited 11 years ago, with our kids). What we really want to do is enjoy Rome, which we both love, to soak in its vibrancy. We're staying in the Piazza Navona neighborhood (at a hotel recommended by a poster in answer to an earlier question). So, first off, any special things that you would recommend would be appreciated. I found a church crawl in Rome on this forum, which we may do, but we're open to other ideas as well.

Second, when we last visited Rome, we ate at L'Orso 80 (more than once), and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. The service was warm and the food good. We'd love some restaurant recommendations. I guess warm service, good food, and nice glass or two of wine sum up our criteria. I remember also loving my morning coffee at a little hole in the wall place near Piazza Navona, both because the coffee was excellent and the guy behind the counter friendly. (I used to know some Italian, and as I speak Spanish, I was able to communicate.... it's been a while, but I'm always up for trying.) Of course, those kinds of off-the-beaten track recommendations are always appreciated too.

I have already received a couple of restaurant recommendations for Sorrento, but of course, any additional ones would be great, and any other suggestions of places to explore there would be welcome. One poster recommended a lunch place in Positano with great views, so we hope to get there as well. Any other suggestions for Sorrento, Amalfi, and/or Positano would be great.

Anyone know if it's fine to get tickets for the train to Sorrento and then back to Rome when we return on the day of travel? And for travel from Sorrento to Pompeii, same question about travel arrangements.

Some posters recommended Mondo Tours for seeing Pompeii. Waiting to see if that will work. If you have other tour recommendations for Pompeii, I'd love to hear them.

And then Capri. I thought it might be fun to take a day trip there from Sorrento before we had back to Rome and then the U.S. Any suggestions for how to spend the day? Again, food and/or coffee places would be helpful too.

The responses that I've previously received have been just wonderful! And much of what we've planned thus far has been done with the help of generous posters. So, thank you in advance for your ideas!

Posted by
5697 posts

Circumvesuviana train Naples to Sorrento, or Sorrento to Pompeii is show-up-and-go -- kind of like a city bus. Same-day tickets are no problem. Rome to Naples can also be same-day, but prebooked can be cheaper. Last trip we stopped in Naples to see the Archaeology museum so did not prebook train to Rome since we didn't know how long the museum would take -- when we got to Napoli Centrale we just bought tickets on the next (local, not express) train back to Rome.

Posted by
7304 posts

Some posters recommended Mondo Tours for seeing Pompeii. Waiting to see if that will work. If you have other tour recommendations for Pompeii, I'd love to hear them.
And then Capri. I thought it might be fun to take a day trip there from Sorrento before we had back to Rome and then the U.S. Any suggestions for how to spend the day?<<

Mondo Tours does tours to Pompeii and to Capri. We are actually doing Pompeii on 5/26 and Capri on 5/28. I know those have spots and tours are confirmed- (you can check on their website under the dates to see if tour confirmed- already have number of required participants). Pompeii on 5/26 has 2 spots open. Capri on 5/28 has 2 tours going- one is full, 1 has 4 spots.

Pompeii is 15€ plus the 15€ for admission. We'll take the Circumvesuviana that am and meet guide there.

Capri is 90€- includes time on Capri, lunch, time for a swim and a boat ride around the island, plus Blue Grotto entry as optional.
They pick you up at your hotel and drop you back at your hotel. I think it's about an 8 hour day.

The Mondo tours get excellent reviews- Capri seems a bit expensive but it's not that much more than taking a ferry yourselves and you do get the tour around island, snacks, beverages etc
For both tours you pay cash on day of.

Anyway- join us if you can- we are celebrating our 40th!

Rome- we'll be there before our time in Amalfi as well. Staying near Pantheon. Last time we ate at a little place tucked away in that neighborhood- recommended by our hotel- Taverna Antonina- we intend to do the same this trip. It was very good.
http://www.tavernaantonina.it

Posted by
32 posts

Thank you for this! How did you like the archeological museum? I'd love to go, but when we pass through Naples, we'll have all of our luggage. You didn't happen to be traveling with luggage too, did you? If so, were you able to check at the museum?

Posted by
16687 posts

Anyone know if it's fine to get tickets for the train to Sorrento and
then back to Rome when we return on the day of travel? And for travel
from Sorrento to Pompeii, same question about travel arrangements.

As Laura posted, you'll take different trains to Sorrento: a "fast" train from Rome to Naples, and then the Circumvesuviana commuter or Campania Express train to Sorrento. Yes, you can purchase "fast" train tickets on the day you travel but there are often nice price breaks for buying them in advance. However because your trip is very soon, those bargain tickets may be sold out. Circumvesuviana tickets can only be purchased locally at the stations that train stops at, and MUST be validated before boarding the trains. I would guess that applies to Campania Express tickets bought at the station as well.

You will use the same Circumvesuviana or Campania Express trains to go to/from Pompeii and Sorrento. Some useful info here:

https://www.sorrentoinsider.com/en/naples-to-sorrento-train-schedule

https://www.sorrentoinsider.com/en/campania-express-train-schedule

https://www.seat61.com/places-of-interest/day-trip-to-pompeii.htm
(These are directions are for a trip from Naples but much of the info can apply to a trip from Sorrento as well.
The station you'll get off at for Pompeii is Pompeii Scavi - Villa Dei Misteri.

Posted by
32 posts

OMG! Christine, we are leading parallel lives (at least as far as our respective trips to Italy are concerned), and we will now meet on the 26th in Pompeii. (I've signed up for the tour.) Thank you for your recommendations. As for Capri, I see why you booked that tour... we're debating whether to sign up. Do you happen to know what time you return to Sorrento on the 28th (as we head back to Rome that evening). Looking forward to meeting you!

Posted by
32 posts

Thank you, Laura and Kathy for the travel info. There are various links to online train tickets. You mentioned possibly getting a better price with an advance booked.. If you were trying to book the Rome-Naples trip in advance, which link would you use? Again, grazie! Everyone has been so helpful!

Posted by
7304 posts

Oh! So you must be Ann? Looking forward to meeting you ;)

Use this link for train tix
http://www.trenitalia.com/tcom-en
Sometimes the purchase won't go thru- if so-try a diff browser or a diff credit card. Looks like the really cheap tix on fast train are gone now for 5/25- cost now is 35.90€- I think we paid 24€. You should book both trains now - To Naples and then back to Rome from Naples. (Circumvesuviana from/to Naples/Sorrento as described above. We opted for a private driver from Naples to Sorrento- got a bit giddy one night and started "splurging" on some things.
Using this company - comes highly recommended and they've been terrific so far
https://www.topexcursionsorrento.com/?portal_referer_id=46

We will be on the 9:50 train from Rome to Naples on 5/25- perhaps we'll travel together lol

You asked above about stopping in Naples for the Museum- I believe Napoli Centrale has baggage storage. Someone here can confirm that. Then you can take metro up to Museum- Rick covers this in his guide book.

You can take the Circumvesuviana or the Campania Express from Naples to Sorrento (if times work out- they did not for us)
Here is Campania schedule:
https://www.positano.com/en/campania-express-train-schedule
Here is link to buy tix:
http://ots.eavsrl.it/web/public/ots/ticket/index

Here is Circumvesuviana schedule- no need to buy tix in advance:
https://www.positano.com/en/naples-to-sorrento-train-schedule

Capri tour- not sure- we are being picked up 8-8:30- then I assume we'll be back by 5ish? You can email them and ask- they were very responsive to me when I had questions..
Pompeii- we plan to take the 9:37 train from Sorrento- meet tour guide at 11.

Posted by
32 posts

Thanks, once again, Christine! You have done all the legwork, and I am reaping the benefits! This is all so helpful.

Posted by
215 posts

And thanks to you both for helping me plan my July trip!! Travelite what hotel are you staying at in Rome? I booked 3 and need to cancel 2 obviously! I’d love restaurant recommendations did you find them here?

Posted by
7304 posts

Happy to help- just paying it forward. I have received so much great advice and help from this forum over the years.

Posted by
32 posts

Ownedby3, We are trying two different hotels in Rome, one, when we arrive, Albergo del Senado recommended by a poster here. (I understand that you can look out over the Pantheon while having drinks on their rooftop, which sounds just lovely.) The other hotel is Hotel Monte Cenci, and we are staying there at the end of our trip. I can't remember whether I received a recommendation for the second hotel, but I may have booked it because it popped up on Chase Sapphire rewards. Your question pushed me to pull up my itinerary. It looks like Hotel Monte Cenci has a higher star rating than Albergo del Senado, for what it's worth, and our rated included breakfast, but the stay is actually costing us less than that at Albergo del Senado.

Posted by
32 posts

Ownedby3, Christine, above, posted her restaurant recommendation for Rome. (I am vegan, and my husband and I both love pasta, which does not seem to be the focus of that restaurant, so I think we will probably not try it, but you should check it out.) We may return to L'Orso 80, because of fond memories. I also saw a recommendation for Il Cantuccio al Senato in another conversation (in which L'Orso 80 had also been recommended), so we may try that as well. I'll let you know how we fare. I have a restaurant reservation in Positano: Bruno, recommended by a poster. And I have these recommendations for Sorrento: Leone Rosso (Sorrento) near train (side street), Taverna Azurra in Grande Marina (Sorrento) seafood, Bagni di Delfino at (fisherman’s) Marina Grande (seafood) , Pizzeria Tasso (all kinds of dishes), from another poster.

Posted by
32 posts

Ownedby3, You prompted me to check out the reviews for Il Cantuccio al Senato. They don't look great, so perhaps ignore my suggestions for restaurants in Rome. (We were last at L'Orso 80 some 11 years ago.)

Posted by
7304 posts

Just wanted to mention that “star” ratings in Italy are not quite the same as here
Stars are given for various amenities like ac or elevator- not really given for quality of hotel as a whole.

Posted by
32 posts

Thanks, Christine. I didn't put too much stake in the rating. Figured it would be fine for a night, and if we're lucky, better than that.

By the way, does anyone happen to know whether it's easy enough to get to Capri via hydrofoil? Can you buy tickets on the day of or are reservations a must? Prefer a little more flexibility than the tour to Capri allows, but then again, I don't want to miss out on getting there, nor do we want to be stranded for the night once there.

Posted by
15798 posts

Much better to leave your stuff at the Naples train station to go to the Archaeology Museum (which is a wow). There is very limited storage space at the museum (mostly wooden lockers for day packs).

Evening bus from Positano to Sorrento. The schedule shows the last two buses at 20.40 and 22.00. Note that the bus begins in Amalfi and may be full when it gets to Positano. Maybe ask the locals what the situation is usually like before you decide which bus to take.

Posted by
32 posts

Just an update from Sorrento.

We took the express train from Rome to Naples. Per your recommendations, I bought the tickets in advance. I should have checked my email before we left for the train station: our train was delayed (first by 20 minutes, then by and additional 15), and there were emails advising me of the delays. Second, from Naples to Sorrento we took the Circumvesuviana train, and I saw a man whom I thought was trying to pickpocket my husband and then another man. At first, I wasn't sure, but then, as we pulled into one of the stations along the way, I saw him going for the other man's pocket. I was shaking. I tapped the would-bevictim, clearly a tourist, on the shoulder, and told him the man was trying to pickpocket him (the pickpocket had wrapped one hand in his jacket and held his fingers by the unsuspecting tourist's pants' pocket. As the train pulled into the station, the would-be pickpocket got off. The obvious advice: BE CAREFUL, hold your belongings close, and have nothing of value in your pockets. (My husband had a money pouch in his pants (with RFID blocking) attached to his belt and inside his pants. Still, he could have lost his cell phone, but for the fact that I insisted that he remove it from his pocket.)

Sorrento is lovely, though it's rainy here.

We tried David's gelato, recommended by Rick Steves, and it was delicious! I loved the coffee ice cream. We also tried the chocolate "nero," which is a sorbet. It's good, but the coffee is so creamy that one could die (figuratively, and given the fat content, probably literally too). (The guy who served us said that Rick stops in when he's in town, and he likes the Parfumo de Sorrento.)

We tried Pizzeria Tasso, recommended here. The restaurant is very willing to adapt their menu to suit your needs, and it's solidly good, but I can't say that I loved it.

We are staying at the Hotel Capodimonte, which I booked through Sapphire Rewards, and I have to say that we love it so far. We have a spectacular view of the water from our room; the room itself is small, but lovely; the pools (plural) are gorgeous. Sadly, the weather is overcast and intermittently rainy, but still, we are having a wonderful time. So happy to be here!

Do NOT make the mistake of taking a taxi from the train to your hotel in Sorrento if you can avoid it. We did (not realizing that with our carry-on bags (we brought no checked luggage), we could have walked to our hotel. (There are also buses.) The taxi cost us 25 Euros. A real rip-off! The concierge told us that if we had asked the hotel to book the taxi, it would have cost 12 Euros, still a lot given the distance, but not absolutely outrageous. If you want or need to take a taxi, ask your hotel what they can arrange for you.

More recommendations to follow if we have them. And thank you to all those who shared theirs!

Posted by
16687 posts

Travelite, glad to hear that you made it to Sorrento, and I hope the weather improves. :O)

Having flex time to work around the curveballs Mother Nature can throw (no, Italy isn't sunny and dry ALL the time) is the very reason a lot of us recommend more days versus less in "outdoor" destinations like the Amalfi Coast. Having more time increases one's chances of at least one dry day, if not more. Rain also isn't as big a deal in cities with lots of museums and other indoor attractions.

A note about the Circumvesuviana? The same precautions one should take with their valuables on this train should be taken on ANY type of public transport in ANY tourist-magnet destination in Italy. Keep your cards, cash, passport, phones, etc. where fingers other than your own can't reach them without your knowledge - such as under your clothing or in an anti-theft bag - and you'll be fine.

And yes, it's good to see exactly where a hotel is located in Sorrento as a fair amount can be walked to from the train station, as was the case with ours (Antiche Mura).

Posted by
32 posts

Actually, Kathy, the rainy weather gives us the opportunity to slow down. We'll see less, but maybe relax a bit more.

Posted by
16687 posts

...the rainy weather gives us the opportunity to slow down.

Spoken like a trooper! Good on you for making lemonade- or should I say limoncello? - out of the raindrops! ☔️

Posted by
32 posts

Another update from Sorrento and Positano.
If you are planning to take a ferry and the weather is iffy, make sure to check that the ferries are running before heading to the port. We wouldn't have thought that the ferries were not running to Positano because the showers were intermittent, but they were all shut down. As a result, we took the SITA (public) bus from Sorrento to Positano. The ticket, good for 24 hours, not just to Positano, but also to Amalfi (and possibly elsewhere, though I didn't ask) cost 10 euros per person. You purchase it at the bottom of the circle below the train station (near where you board), not at one of the indoor ticket booths (those are for tourist buses). Get off at the second Positano stop, not the first (as Rick mentions in his book). The road down the Amalfi coast is, as others have said, incredibly curvy, so for me, it was enough to visit Positano, recover from motion sickness, walk around for a couple of hours, have a delicious whole wheat croissant with honey and decaf express at the Collina Bakery (mentioned in Rick's book) before returning to Sorrento. (Collina's is NOT one of the cafes with a view of the water, and we ate standing up... but the snack hit the spot for us. There are other pretty places with nice views elsewhere). Positano was rainy when we visited, and that also influenced our decision not to travel on to Amalfi, I'm sure. Positano, while beautiful, is filled with tourists, and that made several hours of walking around quite enough. One of the posters recommended staying overnight because, she said, Positano is magical once the bulk of the tourists clear out, but, unfortunately, our schedule didn't allow for that. The same poster recommended Bruno's restaurant, near that second Positano, bus stop for lunch, and I made a reservation (online). Ultimately, I had to cancel our reservation as I knew the motion of the bus and a heavy lunch would not agree with my stomach. If you go to Bruno's on a nice day, the poster recommended one of the outdoor tables overlooking the water. Bruno's is not on the busy pedestrian walks leading down to the beach, so it's less crowded than other place, but still, from what I could see, I think a reservation is a good idea.