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Rome seems overwhelming....

I have been going through the guidebook city by city as I am planning my Italy vacation for this coming March and so far it's been pretty straightforward. The last leg of our trip is Rome and after skimming the guidebook my head is spinning ha. Here's the deal...

We have about 3.75 days in Rome. We arrive at Termini ~10am on 3/17 (Tuesday) and depart the morning of 3/21 (Saturday) out of FCO. On day 1 by the time we arrive at our hotel (staying in Termini district) and get settled it will be ~11am. My general feeling is that that is probably too late to fit in the ancient sites (Colosseum, Forum, Capitoline Hill, Pantheon) and should save those for a full day. This is my (not well hashed out yet) plan of attack:

Day 1: Maybe spend the day in Termini area (National Museum, etc) however is seems like this area is kind of devoid of sites...perhaps our time is better spent elsewhere??? Maybe North Rome (Borghese Gallery, etc???)

Day 2 (Wednesday): Vatican with maybe a Papal Audience. [Vatican worth a whole day?] Rick Steve's Heart of Rome walk towards end of day.

Day 3: Ancient Rome (Colosseum, Forum, Hills, Pantheon; Dolce Vita walk at end of day)

Day 4: Catacombs, South of Rome??? No idea really....

Would appreciate some input on a general approach to this 4 day stay in Rome. Thanks!

Posted by
11315 posts

Hi Doc.

I think you have time for the ancient sites on arrival day. we did that our first trip here years ago. met our guide at 13:00 and by 16:00 she deposited us at the back door to the Vittoriano where we took the elevator to the top for a late afternoon view. (Only do this on a clear day.) We did Colosseo, Forum and Palatine Hill. I highly recommend a private guide for the two of you for this. Saves a lot of time and very enlightening. Try Francesca Caruso (francescainroma@gmail.com) or her very able colleague, Sonia Tavoletta (soniatav@alice.it).

Day 2 - Weds - Generally it is recommended to NOT go to the Vatican on audience days unless you are going to the audience. Frankly I would only go to an audience if I had tickets. (You might contact your bishop to see if you can get them.) Instead, make this your Borghese Gallery day - go early like at 09:00 and then after lunch you can do something else. Maybe one of Rick's famous walks past monuments and to the Pantheon.

Day 3 - Thurs - Vatican Day. I like Walks of Italy and their Pristine Sistine tour. Again this would be a morning event, leaving the afternoon open for something else. I highly recommend leaving time to just walk around, maybe take in a church or two like Santa Maria Sopra Minerva or San Luigi de Francesi or San Clemente. and there's alway shopping....

Day 4 - Fri - A walk on the Appian Way is a nice idea, or make a list of museums you might like to see; National Museum Palazzo Massimo (near Termini), Palazzo Pamphilj, Castel Sant'Angelo, etc., in case of a rain day.

Posted by
715 posts

Doc,
I go to Rome every year. I love the city. Every year I add some new sites, but every year I always spend time in Trastevere and in the Centro Storico. I can't imagine not wandering the streets in and around the Jewish Ghetto, Campo de fiori, Piazza Navonna and the Pantheon. I have been to the Pantheon dozens of time and i go every year. Give yourself time to sit observe and absorb.

My two cents.

Posted by
7357 posts

Rome is so full of worthwhile sights that with an entire week 2 years ago, we still just scratched the surface, but you'll see plenty during your stay that you shouldn't feel shortchanged, and there's not any Tourist of the Year award for the person who sees the most things per day of their visit, so no pressure there. :-)

We arrived early one day for the Vatican Museums (walked right up to the door, no one standing yet in the long rope maze out front), exited the Sistene Chapel by the "secret" back door Rick describes, and toured St. Peter's and climbed the dome, and that took all day. We took our time going thru the vast museums (and still didn't see everything - they temporarily closed the Etruscan rooms just as we started looking at those exhibits), so that can affect what else you'd have time for. If you're scheduling a Papal Audience, of course, your intinerary could be different.

We visited the Colosseum one day (did a lower-levels underground tour), and the Palatino/Forum the next day. The Palatine Hill complex is big, we didn't even go into the museum there, and although we used Rick's Rome book to help us sort our way around, a human guide might've helped us find sites and provided information that could've helped.

We got Roma Passes good for 3 days, although a 2-day Pass is now also available. Be sure to have your Borghese Gallery reservations made, and ensure you arrive in time. If this doesn't make your head spin too much, and if it works with your schedule, consider visiting the fascinating Basilica of San Clemente (described in Rick's book), with an ornate church built on top of an earlier church, built on top of a pagan temple & ancient Roman houses. It's very near Colosseum/Palatine Hill.

Posted by
697 posts

Sounds like you have a good plan. I would recommend the Borghese, which is an easy walk from the Termini area, on Day 1. If you have some time left over at the end of the day, you might want to explore the National Museum, Santa Maria della Vittoria (which contains Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Theresa), or maybe the Barberini Palace or San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane.

I would reserve a whole day for Ancient Rome and the better part of a day for the Vatican, especially if you are interested in anything more than a cursory exploration of the Vatican Museum.

On the last day, it really depends on what you are interested in. You definitely will want to work the Pantheon and Piazza Navona into the mix somewhere. Maybe concentrate on the historic center, including churches such as Santa Maria Sopra Minerva or Santa Maria della Pace. A personal favorite of mine is the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, which has Velasquez' portrait of Pope Innocent and tons of other art --- and it is never crowded. South of Rome is another possibility.

Posted by
119 posts

Thanks for the great feedback so far. After synthesizing the above here's a rough plan I've come up with:

Day 1 (Tuesday) : North Rome (Borghese Gallery, etc.)...basically trying to do walking distance things

Day 2 (Wednesday; Purchase Roma Pass at beginning): Ancient Rome

Day 3 (Thursday): Vatican City, Pantheon and surrounding neighborhood (thinking we might skip the Papal Audience - would give us more time to see sites I believe. My only concern is that Vatican and Pantheon might be too ambitious for one day - thoughts?

Day 4: South Rome + Catacombs

Reasonable?

Posted by
11613 posts

The Pantheon is one small building, and its opening hours are fairly long. Go for it on the Vatican day, you can do it!

Posted by
635 posts

If you can, get to the Pantheon when it opens at 08:30, so you can have the whole place to yourself. It gets crowded at mid-day. If you arrive a little before opening time, pop in for a cappucino at Tazza d'Oro, a block to the northeast on Via degli Orfani.

Posted by
5697 posts

And don't overlook the very Roman "dolce far niente" -- the sweetness of doing nothing. Have another gelato. Watch people walking by. Savor the last days of an amazing trip.

Posted by
5211 posts

EmergencyDoc,

Laura B has an excellent point!

"the sweetness of doing nothing"

The first time I visited Rome, I was traveling with my mom (who'd been there the year before), and the first thing we did was walk to the Colosseum from our hotel in termini area. It was such a magical experience standing there, taking all it's history... truly surreal !
After we'd walked everywhere for a couple of days, we just boarded a public bus... had no idea where it was heading...we just relaxed & rode around Rome... to this day we still laugh about it, because we were so tired (going to all the "must see" sights) that we opted to take a real break and we just enjoyed the ride... in Rome! The bus actually got so packed that there was hardly any standing room! We finally decided to get off where most of the people got off. Somewhere away from the historic center, away from all the tourists. We found a bakery/gelateria & enjoyed a gelato & pastries, as we waited for another bus to take us back.

It was so sweet... just doing nothing!

Enjoy your honeymoon!

Posted by
7357 posts

The Borghese Gallery and the National Museum by Termini are both part of the Roma Pass while none of the Vatican sights are, so you might want to look at getting your Roma Pass right away, depending on what else you're planning on seeing, and what those sights would cost with/without using the Pass, and whether those sights would be one of your first two (free) sights.

Posted by
1501 posts

You MUST have a reservation for the Borghese Gallery. It will have an assigned time. Be there 30 minutes before your assigned time. You will need to check any bags in a very safe locked assigned locker. You will not be admitted if you are late. It's highly worth these little inconveniences as the art is amazing!

The Pantheon, as noted above, is open long hours, is one small building and stunning. I've done the Pantheon on two trips to Rome The first day after a late arrival. The surrounding piazza is a great place to unwind and have a drink and a little dinner. Lots of options there.

Posted by
11315 posts

Day 1 (Tuesday) : North Rome (Borghese Gallery, etc.)...basically trying to do walking distance things
Day 2 (Wednesday; Purchase Roma Pass at beginning): Ancient Rome
Day 3 (Thursday): Vatican City, Pantheon and surrounding neighborhood (thinking we might skip the Papal Audience - would give us more time to see sites I believe. My only concern is that Vatican and Pantheon might be too ambitious for one day - thoughts?
Day 4: South Rome + Catacombs
Reasonable?

Yes very reasonable, but do buy your Roma Passes on Day 1 as they cover the Borghese. Call the Borghese and make a reservation telling them you have the Roma Pass. You will still pay a reservation fee, but not the ticket charge. Your choices will be 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00 admission time. Note the Roma Passes also cover public transportation for three days (until midnight your third day).

You might even squeeze in the Pantheon on Day 1. Head down there around 17:00, see the Pantheon and then have an appertivo in a rooftop bar overlooking the square before dinner in a charming restaurant in Centro Storico. Take a cab back to the Termini area for about €12-14.

Posted by
15807 posts

One additional comment? Are you purchasing the Roma pass for 48 hours or for three days? If you're buying the three-day version, you'll want to move your Vatican visit to Friday so you can get the good out of the pass. It must be used on consecutive days so the clock will start ticking on Tuesday, Day 1 - if you use it for the Borghese - and run out on Thursday night. As you can't use it for anything at the Vatican, you don't want to waste a day of pass value.

Posted by
119 posts

I guess I need clarification on what the Roma Pass actually gets you. I was under the impression that it gave you free public transportation + free admission and line skipping at the first two sites you visit. Is there more that comes with the pass (more discounts, more line skipping)??? BTW we are going to buy the 72 hour pass. In any case we are changing our Vatican day to Friday anyway because (thanks to the guidebook!) I read that the Vatican Museum is closed on Thursday the 19th for St. Joseph's Day...who knew?

Posted by
11613 posts

The Roma Pass gives you two free admissions to listed sites, then discounts to many others listed. Line-skipping at all of these. Free transportation anywhere on the local systems. Pass expires at midnight, so most recommend using it on your first full day. First use on public transportation will start the clock. On buses, you don't need to re- validate after the first time, just be able to show it if asked.

Posted by
119 posts

Please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.

After reading about the Roma Pass on the official site, this is what I've learned:

1) Line skipping only applies to the first two sites one visits (where the free admissions are applied), after that discounted tickets may be obtained but you must wait on the traditional ticket buying line to take advantage of this.

2) The free admissions MUST be applied to the first 2 sites one visits. i.e. you cannot use a discount at your first site then use a free admission for the second. This is a minor bummer to me as I was hoping to have this kind of flexibility.

3) On the official website, it says there is a special turn style at the Colosseum that allows Roma Pass holders to skip the line regardless if they are using a free admission or a discounted admission; however another travel site I visited refutes this. Could someone clarify? Also, if one uses the pass for admission to the Colosseum, is Forum and Palatine Hill admission covered as well or do you have to get multiple tickets?

The situation I am trying to avoid is using up all our line skips before getting to the Colosseum. We are planning on going to the Borghese on day 1 (using our first free admit) and then the Colosseum first thing day 2 (using our second free admit). I'm thinking there probably isn't much else in the North that would require us using our Passes, thus freeing up our second use for the Colosseum.

Guidance appreciated!

Posted by
11315 posts

The situation I am trying to avoid is using up all our line skips before getting to the Colosseum. We are planning on going to the Borghese on day 1 (using our first free admit) and then the Colosseum first thing day 2 (using our second free admit). I'm thinking there probably isn't much else in the North that would require us using our Passes, thus freeing up our second use for the Colosseum.

Not to worry! Your first two admissions are free and all others are discounted, but ALL admissions are skip the line AFAIK in your 3 days. Perfect plan to use first for Borghese and 2nd for Colosseo et.sl.

Posted by
15807 posts

I am reading that you have to stand in the ticket lines to use the pass once you've used up your first two freebies: the only benefit after that (other than the transport piece) is a discount on prices.

The Colosseum, Forum and Palatine are all on one ticket so you only need to use the pass once for those. If indeed you have to get your discount via a ticket line, go to the Palatine to do that: lines are shortest there, and longest at the Colosseum. Once you have your ticket in hand, you can skip the long line at the Colosseum.

Posted by
11315 posts

Of course the major lines are at the Colosseo in any case....

Posted by
11613 posts

I didn't use the pass last summer, but in prior years I was always able to skip the line anywhere the pass was valid.

As far as I know, you can enter at the Palatine and find a shorter line, then go to the forum/Colosseum on the same ticket without standing in line.

Posted by
15807 posts

As far as I know, you can enter at the Palatine and find a shorter line, then go to the forum/Colosseum on the same ticket without standing in line.

Yes, exactly. That's what we did on our first trip to Rome (didn't use a Roma Pass) and it worked very well. However I would recommend being there at the opening hour as I also read that the Palatine trick has been discovered by a few more tourists! Just as many of them skip that one entirely, though. Sometimes the line at the Forum ticket office can be short-ish too.

Posted by
6 posts

Having been to Rome twice for short breaks, most recent was last year, I would start planning your trip by visiting Walks of Italy http://www.walksofitaly.com/ . This is a company run by an American and they are brilliant. The best way of seeing and understanding the main sights is by having an expert guide telling you about them. Check out the tours they offer and the timings of each which will help you plan in other things.
Last year we prebooked two tours, the welcome to Rome and the VIP Colosseum, Roman Forum & Palatine Hill tour. Definitely do the VIP tour as you get to see parts of the Colosseum that others don't.
We didn't use them for the Vatican but kind of wish we had.

They will also help you with advice and I truly believe this will take away a lot of the thinking from your point of view and you will benefit from their wonderful knowledge.

Regards
Gordon

Posted by
8141 posts

The best information you're going to receive on Rome is at RonInRome.com. He tells you about accommodations, food, tourist sights and nightlife. He also teaches how to buy train tickets and deal with cabs, buses and Rome's underground (subways.)

My best suggestion is to quickly learn how to navigate through the public transit system, as you can walk yourself to death in Rome. Buses are quick and efficient ways to go across town.

Posted by
1501 posts

David in Florence Alabama, you took the words out of my mouth! Roninrome is the first place he should go. Relax, ER Doc, you're going to have a great time!

Posted by
1878 posts

Rome is overwhelming, there is no doubt about that. Vatican including Castel Sant'Angelo are worth a day. Don't miss out on the major public places. Centro Storico, Piazza Navona, Campo DiFiori, Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo, Trevi Fountain. Some of those you might be better off going to earlier in the day. Every time we have been at the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, it's been at the end of the day when they are mobbed. Pantheon, Borghese Gallery are a must. You can do the ancient sites in 3/4 of a day and still have time to walk around. They used to close the Via Appia (where a couple of the catacombs are) to motor traffic on Sundays, and if you do make it out there, that is a nice day to visit.

Posted by
15582 posts

I suggest that before you leave, you have exact walking directions for the places you are planning to visit, including maps. I can't tell you how many times I walked much longer than necessary to get from place to place. One of my problems was that there were places without street signs, including large intersections.

Posted by
68 posts

Doc,
You're clearly a planner! I double-echo the comments above about just enjoying a bit and enjoying some down time. Don't overplan. I promise you, things will NOT always go according to plan. Things will fall through or get off track, there will be a train strike or something will be closed unexpectedly. And that's ok - you'll be in Italy and on your honeymoon!

You're doing lots of good research, and that's valuable, but my advice is to graph out a semi-rough plan and just get right with the idea that you may need to improvise on the spur of the moment. If that happens, smile, laugh, have some wine and/or gelato and revel that you're in the most romantic place in the world with your love. There's not much better than that!!
Have a wonderful trip,
Lori

Posted by
11613 posts

I don't use the RS maps. Streetwise has a good series of detailed city maps that are laminated. I like the Michelin country or region maps, but they take up some space.

Posted by
11315 posts

I agree with Zoe on using Streetwise maps. When going to a new major city I often draw my planned walks on them with a Sharpie. I also refer to the R.S. maps in his books, BUT I find them to be rather stylized and sometimes hard to decipher.

Posted by
2114 posts

We've only been to Rome three times, so some of the other posters likely have much more experience from which to draw. You've been given some great advice, to which I will just add the following:

1) If there is a site that is a 'must-see' in your mind, consider doing it early in your visit, so you have more time over the following days, should you run into a problem seeing that site.

St. Peter's comes to mind for me............it was on our THIRD trip to Rome that we finally got inside St. Peter's. First time it was closed for a private mass, and you can only imagine how long the lines were as more and more folks lined up waiting until it reopened for the public (picture busloads of nuns, busloads of tourists, etc.) The second time, the beatification was announced (after we had already made our trip reservations, etc.). While it was truly unique seeing all the to-dos for that event, no luck getting into St. Peter's due to all the related events. Finally, our third visit, I told my husband that if we didn't make it in, I might have to once again becoming an active Catholic.....maybe a message was being sent to me...LOL! But, I had my spouse take a photo of me doing the ole 'thumbs up' as we walked thru the door of St. Peter's on the third visit to Rome.

If you have Rick's book for Italy (mine is a few years old), there should be contact in for a guide named Francisca (sp?)....whatever she charges (within reason) definitely Hire Her for maybe two hours to take you thru the ancient sites...Rick uses her for his group tours, and she is absolutely incredible!!!! She makes the site come alive, her English is perfect, and she is a fun person, too (Likely others will chime in about how wonderful she is.) I assume she is still guiding...it's been a few years since we were in Rome.

2) For the Borghese, if you happen to arrive early, just politely check with the ticket office to see if perhaps you could enter a bit early. They allowed us to do that on one of our arrival days, when we booked tickets later to allow for late plane arrival, etc. I kindly explained we didn't want to miss it due to a late plane, but that we were also beginning to get very tired (jet lag) and the gentleman made a switch to our tickets and let us join the group that was leaving in 5 minutes.......despite signs posted that they were sold out and tickets were not available for something like three days later. We appreciate his kindness.

3) As another poster said, use the public transportation. The subway (or whatever they call it) is not extensive....Francisca explained that every time underground digging takes place in Rome, more great relics and discoveries of ancient civilization are found, so the subway will not be expanded in a hurry. But, taking that to the Vatican area (and then it's still several blocks of a walk, but very do-able) will save you gobs and gobs of leg time. In Rome, there is so much walking, you will want to save the walking for when you 'have to' walk. We walked all the back to our hotel (in general area where you will be staying) from the Vatican and I don't think we would choose to do that again...should have taken the Metro subway system.

4) ........and as a previous poster said, definitely have a plan, but also go with the flow....we've always had to make little alterations to our plans in Rome........and I am a 'planner' by nature. I usually nail down an itinerary by morning, mid-day, afternoon, and evening, and usually 1/4 to 1/3 of that gets wiggled around or changed once on the ground.

Have fun!! I hope you will also have time to get into the countryside, too.

Posted by
4105 posts

For an offline map, take a look @ the
Trip Advisor City Guide App.

Posted by
7357 posts

This won't help you until you get over there, but the Roma Pass comes with an outstanding, portable map.

Posted by
715 posts

Doc, if you have a iPad or something similar then try the citymapstogo app, it is free, or you can pay a little for the full version, Either one is great and u can use it off line, and it comes with a GPS which is really handy.

Posted by
10344 posts

Yes, Rome is overwhelming. One of the great ancient and historical cities of Europe.