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Rome Picnic Question

Hi all,

We're going to be in Rome in mid-May (four adults, 'kids' in their 20s and us 'rents). We're all in good physical condition, walking is fine and so is public transportation. One of our days is shaping up this way:

  • Get up ridiculously early by vacation standards and go visit St. Peter's Basilica, go up the Dome, marvel at the architecture and engineering, etc. The plan would be to be there NLT 8am. Figure we'll be 'done' by 10 or 11.
  • Buy panini and other picnic items from somewhere and then either make our way to Borghese park OR find somewhere else between Vatican City and Borghese Gallery to picnic (and possibly nap :)) and just chill. We're really good at long and lazy picnics. Also of course this is weather dependent....
  • Visit Borghese Gallery (we have tickets for 3pm)

I'm looking for recs on "good" picnic spots. I know we could go to the big park and find an area we like and it'll be great. But was wondering if anyone has a favorite or memorable place they've loitered somewhere between the Vatican and the park. The Castle grounds? Some other small parco? Or a particularly favorite part of Borghese Villa park?

This "agenda" also has the built in flexibility in that my son might rather visit some "fascist architecture" sites (like Olympic Stadium) rather than St Peter's and the picnic option let's us all meet up somewhere mellow before we go to Borghese Gallery. None of us really want to visit the Vatican museums, so that's not part of our plan (ok, it would be amazing, but we're really not major art people and the effort to visit just isn't worth the work and the crowds -- we'd rather picnic LOL).

Thanks for any BTDT suggestions!

Posted by
2817 posts

The three walking routes that google maps suggest all take about an hour so it would be nifty to break that up into two half-hour walks with a stop for picnicking in the middle -
BUT
all the hideaway greenery in the historic center is not around any potential half-way point.

SO
I think you should consider taking the high route and make your picnic stop in the piazza del popolo
at the Terrazza del Pincio overlooking the elliptical square, or take the low route and make your picnic stop on the Spanish Steps.

Make sure you keep track of the time and distance because the Borghese is always a madhouse and getting there early is a must.

Posted by
6552 posts

Avi, isn't it forbidden to picnic (or even sit) on the Spanish Steps? or has that been rescinded?

Posted by
2152 posts

Sitting on the Spanish Steps sets you up for a big fine. The same is true for other sites in Rome as well.

Posted by
2817 posts

Wow, I was distracted by something or other for the last 6 years apparently - you are correct no more sitting on the Spanish Steps.
I guess i have to dig out my morning-after photos from back before this was the rule -- the place would be covered in empty bottles and wrappers.

So, Carrie, if you take the lower route suggested by google maps, plan to picnic along the right side of the river on the embankment where you can look across at the castle santangelo and imagine Tom Hanks trying to keep it from blowing up and destroying the universe.

Posted by
169 posts

I would opt for a picnic in the park of Villa Borghese. I got to the gallery ahead of my time slot and had time to wander around. I thoroughly enjoyed it- what an amazing park in the heart of Rome. If you have time, you could rent one of those "bikes" for 2-4 people and see more of the park. They look like a lot of fun!

Posted by
795 posts

I vote in that park too! I haven't walked from Vatican City to the Villa Borghese, but I am picturing a map of Rome and that is the largest green space nearby!

Posted by
81 posts

Anyway, sorry to insert on a thread about picnics, but you can tell I share your son's interest in this era's architecture and design!

Ha! I was going to start another thread on this topic because I knew there would be other’s of you out there. I’m interested in this as well, but more interested in St. Peter’s and we only have so much time (we spent an inordinate amount of time in Milano Stazione because of the architecture :)). Thank you for the suggestions - I know the EUR is on his radar. It seems like the EUR and the stadium area are pretty far from each other so picking only one is probably the call, but it’s good to know that’s where we should be looking.

Posted by
28247 posts

St. Peter's requires you to go through a security check for which the line can be crazy long. People have said it's not bad at all if you get there around the 7 AM opening time. I don't know what you'll find at 8 AM. I have no clue how long the dome takes, or even the building itself, because I haven't been inside since the 1990s. I took one look at the afternoon security line last winter and punted on the whole idea. Next time I go to Rome I'm going to stay in Prati so I can get up at the crack of dawn and just walk over to the St. Peter's.

If you have extra time before you're due at the Borghese Gallery, I heartily recommend the Quartiere Coppede for architecture lovers not so much into the Fascist era. https://mamalovesrome.com/quartiere-coppede-rome-italy/ It's not terribly large, but I spent hours there just zigzagging up and down the streets.

Posted by
468 posts

No sitting on the Spanish Steps? We did that in 2005--or rather we sat at the top of the steps very early one morning. We were the only people there. I was amazed to have the area to ourselves. Can understand though if it became a litter problem.

Posted by
81 posts

If you have extra time before you're due at the Borghese Gallery, I heartily recommend the Quartiere Coppede for architecture lovers not so much into the Fascist era.

This seems AMAZING. I'm thinking it could be perfect after our visit to the Gallery -- to walk up there, wander, eat dinner, then make our way back 'home' (we're staying near Termini). It seems like a terribly long day, but a solid rest period during lunch/picnic should make it work. Plus we have 5.5 hour train ride the next day so we can sleep then!

Posted by
1105 posts

https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/travel-tips/getting-in-trouble-italy

Whether you know them by virtue of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in the classic film Roman Holiday, or have seen them yourself, the Spanish Steps are one of the most famous landmarks in Rome. But as of 2019, a ban has been introduced to prevent tourists from sitting on the 135 steps, spanning from the Trinita de’ Monti to the Piazza di Spagna. A hefty fine of €250 awaits anyone spotted using the steps as a resting spot, enforced by whistle-wielding high-vis-wearing officials patrolling the area by day. Should anyone do damage or create stains on the staircase, the fine increases to €400.

Posted by
81 posts

Thought I'd report back on our actual experience.

We did make it to the line at St Peter's by 7:30am. We all existed the cathedral by 11:30 (some were done earlier than others, but that was our final meet up time). We walked and got sandwiches/pizza from this shop and hopped on the Metro to the stop near the Spanish Steps (Barbarini?). We followed the exit signs to Villa Borghese -- do NOT recommend that as it dumped us out on the side of a very busy road with really no path to get into the park itself (so weird). Anyway, walked and made our way into the park and found shade/grass, etc and had a great picnic. And yes some napping.

Followed by a stroll through the Villa to the Galleria, then we wandered through the Copperte district AFTER before aperitivo. It was a really nice day :)