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Rome Experts Needed for 1st Trip Advice

Hi, brand new here! My husband and I have traveled all over the United States but this is our first trip out of the country so we're coming straight to the experts for help.

Our flight lands at FCO noon'ish on Tuesday, November 20th, then we have (only) 4 full days before we fly out on Sunday the 25th at 1:00ish for an overnight layover in Paris. We are staying just north of the entrance gate of Piazza del Popolo near the Flaminio metro stop.

We are thinking of this as a whirlwind "see as much as we can see, and find out where we'd like to come back to and spend more time" kind of trip. We plan on returning :)
We are empty nester's, late 40's/early 50's, in good health, and planning to walk miles and miles each day (in rain if need be) to discover nooks and crannies, but at the same time would love your advice on when to use the Metro to save our feet for the good stuff. Especially since our hotel may be a bit out of the way. Here's where our thoughts are so far:

TUESDAY/ARRIVAL: we should land at FCO noon'ish, we travel carry-on only so we won't have to pick up luggage but this is our first international flight so we are greenhorns at finding customs and knowing what to do when we get there. Handholding and guidance appreciated :)

Train to Termini if we're exhausted, or bus to look out the windows if we're not. Then Metro or bus to the Hotel for the same reasons.
Probably express train and metro after our long flights. Check in/Shower/freshen up then head out to explore!

Eat! We'll be starving but it appears many places will be closed until dinner. What does one do in such a situation?

Spend the rest of the day wandering and learning our way around. If it's not too ambitious and won't wreck our feet on Day 1 ideally we"d love to wander from Piazza del Popolo, up to the Pinzio Terrace to lookout over Rome, then all the way down to the Colosseum and Forum area -hopefully lit up by this time of day. Then make our way over to Campo de Fiori and from there start Rick Steve's Heart of Rome Audio Walking Tour that hits most of the highlights as we make our way back to our hotel area near Piazza del Popolo.
Now, I've plotted all that out on Google Maps and it seems walkable in theory, but I trust you all will let me know where the best spots would be to catch transportation, if it's not in fact a good idea. :)

Alternatively- take transportation straight to Campo de Fiori after lunch and start the Heart of Rome walk.
Find dinner as we walk or have a reservation?
STAY AWAKE till 9PM.

WEDNESDAY: Our 1st Full Day:

oh sigh The RomanForum/Colosseum/Palatine Hill.

Metro there to save our feet for the rest of the day, or walk?

Book a guided tour, or print out tickets online and use Rick Steve's Audio Walking Tours?

Afterwards, spend the rest of the day wandering old neighborhoods, seeing as many ancient sites as possible, and eating as much as we can hold. Still need to learn what highlights are nearby.

THURSDAY-SATURDAY Still up in the air because there's simply not enough time, but high on our personal priority lists:
*Wander neighborhoods old and new (Jewish Ghetto, Trastavare, Testaccio, around our hotel, take a metro to the 'burbs)
*See the view from a train to Naples/ Archeological Museum/pizza/Afternoon in Herculaneum/Overnight and morning glimpse of Sorrento
*See the views from a train to an Umbrian hilltown (Orvieto?) and just wander the city and look out over surrounding countryside.
*Vatican Museum to ogle the treasures. Book a guided tour? Rick Steves audio tour?

Hopefully that paints a picture of who we are and what we'd love to glimpse. If you can think of a way to fit in all the above in 4 and 1/2 days we're all ears:)
And I know I asked dozens of questions, I apologize! I don't expect answers to all of them, just trying to wrap my own mind around things.

Thanks in advance for any tips, ideas, or guidance,
Monica

Posted by
2871 posts

You'll be staying at the top point of the historical triangle area so your plan to walk through it down to the forum and maybe farther the first evening is a great one -- the Corso is pedestrian-only for a couple of hours in the late afternoon, perfect time to be strolling from the churches in the Piazza del Popolo down to the forum, with stops for small bites and gelato along the way.

As a first timer you'll be tempted by the restaurants right on the corso and right within the piazza navona and campo d'fiori, and you can find tasty food there, but wander a block farther afield and you'll find tastier food at half the price-- my favorite example is Lucifero, a few alleys off of the campo -- most tourists wouldn't walk down these alleys but if you do you'll find amazing food, especially steak and fondue (that's their specialties and locals get those). The Spanish Steps are on the eastern segment of the triangle, and best seen very early or very late, ditto the Trevi fountain.

My main advice, though, is to pick a guided tour that fits your interests and style. My favorite guide is Context Travel, which are like a graduate MFA seminar meeting on foot. The RS guidebook describes others worth considering.

In a relatively short first visit, I would probably stick to the immediate area, maybe adding Ostia Antica, rather than spend the time to get to another city.

Posted by
1103 posts

Congratulations on your first trip to Europe.

Many people will suggest that you may want to stay in Rome for such a short stay. Our first trip to Rome was for 10 days, and we have been back three times since. In Italy they have a saying: Roma non Basta una vita - For Rome one lifetime is not enough.

Posted by
560 posts

I'm exhausted after reading all of that... You'll have no issues with customs at the airport, follow the crowd, there's nowhere else to go. Pick-up your luggage and head out to the train station or, get a taxi. Pick up the RS guidebook and read that section.

3-days time is a good amount for a 1st timer, 4-days you'll cover quite a bit. Many of the top sites are around the Centro Storico (historic center), which in the grand scheme of things, isn't all that big. When it's hot and crowded, things seem bigger than they are. Bring solid walking shoes, you'll need them, you will be walking, just don't over-think it.

You've plotted the top sites, split each up per day. Most important reserve your tickets for the Vatican Museum in advance, going with a guided tour seems to be the easiest and least stressful option. The Metro works well, getting a 3-day Roma Pass gives you unlimited usage and will get you to all the necessary stops.

The first four-days of the RS 7-day tour will cover a lot You can eliminate Ostia Antica to give yourself some breathing room.

Posted by
174 posts

Having just spent 7 days in Rome plus a one day side trip to Naples/Pompeii, I would say save a trip to Naples/Sorrento for another time, same with Umbria. It’s just a really short amount of time to spend a chunk at a train station. There is plenty in Rome to keep you occupied for four days and then you are not wasting a morning/evening traveling rather than seeing the sites. I think someone mentioned Ostia Antica... that’s about as far as I’d go if you absolutely must go out of the city.

Since you are only there four days, consider getting the three day Roma Pass. It provides immediate access to the Colosseum/Forum if that’s the first place you use it Museum wise and provides unlimited access to the Bus/Metro/Tram line for the three days you have it. If you are truly staying at an out of the way hotel, it will probably come in handy, and it provides discounts to other sites as well.

Full disclosure, my mom and I just bought a 7 day transportation pass, not the Roma Pass, but it looks pretty handy and your time frame works better than ours. Familiarize yourself with a few bus lines or the metro. There was no metro that worked well for us so we used about 5-6 different lines for our needs. The Rome ATAC website actually has a great route planner. You just need to type the bus line and make sure to pick rhe direction you want to go. You can play with clicking on bus stops to see where they are in relation to you. I’d look every night and we’d have a plan for the morning... all that to say, my biggest advice for Rome is to pick where you want to be every day, use transport of some kind to get there, and walk that specific area. Saves your feet, saves your time.

If you don’t do the Roma Pass, absolutely book a tour or buy a timed ticket in advance for the Colosseum. Ours was for 8:30 in the morning. We got to the site at 7:45 and were still not the first in line even in the reserved line. We actually rented their audio video guide and found it serviceable but I’m sure the RS works well. If you’re up for it, I wouldn’t anticipate the Colosseum/Forum taking the whole day... definitely consider capping the day with the Capitoline Museums or at least exploring the Michelangelo designed square they are on.

And when you say, you want to wander old neighborhoods to see ancient sites, what exactly do you mean by that? Are you hoping for Roman ruins? Old churches? It might help to know what you are looking for to help better give you recommendations. For instance, the Appian Way might be fun if you want ancient sites, but if you want old churches, the heart of Rome walk brings you close to several amazing ones as well as those on XX Septembre. The other three Vatican churches are all in unique neighborhoods, especially St Paul Outside the Walls.

With the Vatican museums, they are amazing, but crowded. Even with the crowds, I could sit in the Sistine Chapel forever. If you go, get a guided tour or absolutely book for a timed entry (I’d recommend the audio guide too) in advance.

Tratestevere is great! I can’t speak to the other neighborhoods you mentioned but I’d skip a metro to the suburbs. Again, plenty in Rome to keep you occupied and the burbs are just that, burbs.

You might enjoy going up to the Villa Borghese Park. It’s absolutely beautiful and peaceful. The Galleria Borghese is there, which, if you love art, it was definitely my favorite, even beyond the Vatican. Reservations are a must but the sculptures alone are phenomenal. And the Appian Way is still one to look into... you could even rent bikes or take a bus out to the aqueduct park.

Posted by
5273 posts

Since this is your first trip, you might want to consider a private car service to get to your hotel. After a long flight, some jet lag, not being familiar with the area, there is nothing better than having a private driver meet you inside the terminal and whisk you to your hotel. No hassling with the train system, no fending off the privateer cabs, waiting in the regular taxi line, or just having a "lost" feeling. It is not the cheapest way, but it is definitely the best. We can not say enough good things about Rome Cabs. It is a private car service (not a cab company) but it only cost about the same (maybe a bit more) than a regular taxi. We always use them and have always been very pleased. Go to romecabs.com and see what you think. We usually send an email and they answer us with a quote within 24 hours. You do (or did) have to pay cash (Euros) and the end of the journey but not in advance. I think they might now accept credit cards.

With your limited amount of time my suggestion is to spend the entire time in Rome. More than enough to keep you busy.

Posted by
11673 posts

Comcentrate totally on Rome this trip. We have never used subways/metro in Rome whereas we always do in other cities. You will walk a lot! Hopefully you won’t have large crowds in late Novemebr. They weren’t too bad on our last visit, late October two years ago.
The Rome food Apps are helpful, Elizabeth Monichelli’s EAT ROME and Katie Parla’s Rome are worth the price!

Posted by
560 posts

If you have never flown international before be prepared jet lag can really get to you. Sometimes it is worse the second day. I would also suggest staying in Rome. The days will be short when you are there. Enjoy!

Posted by
136 posts

What everyone else said !!

Stick to Rome on this trip. You will be back. We have spent a total of around 15 days in Rome and still have things we want to see (or see again) in Rome. Stick to your plan to "wander neighborhoods..." Rome is a city of neighborhoods. We found that the subway was not too useful but that taxi's are available and not all that expensive. Very nice to get a quick ride back to your hotel after a long day on your feet. Read the RS guidebook for Rome in detail and repeatedly and then google the things that catch your interest. He does a really good job and there are a zillion things to see in the central area where you will be. If you really work it the heart of Rome walk could take 2 or 3 days. Strolling is good - there is something of interest in every block.

Make reservations for the Villa Borghese. It is well worth it. Reservations are given for 2 hour windows and therefore it is not crowded like the Vatican museum. Skip the Vatican Museum unless you have "must sees" there. It is a zoo and exhausting and difficult to enjoy. But do see St Peter's.

Robbie

Posted by
33 posts

Thank you all so much, both for first reading my "novel" and for getting back to me so quickly, You have put my mind at ease and given me direction. I'm heading over to google now to look up the tips and suggestions you've given me.

Posted by
11294 posts

First, I don't know if you're currently in possession of Rick Steves Rome 2018 edition. If not, get it immediately. It will be invaluable, both in pre-trip planning and while you're there. It will have the answers to questions you didn't even think to ask.

Next, while in the US we say "customs" to mean "customs and immigration," in Europe the terms are used correctly. If you are flying nonstop from the US to Rome, you will get off your plane and follow everyone to immigration (passport control). How long this takes cannot be predicted - could be 15 minutes, could be 2 hours (yes, really). Then you pass through the baggage reclaim area and go through customs. However, in Europe, this is merely a matter of walking through the Green Channel Nothing To Declare lane. Unless you're "randomly selected for additional screening" (possible but rare), you're done.

If you are flying from the US through Paris to Rome all on one ticket, you will go through immigration in Paris, as this is your point of entry into the Schengen zone. The Schengen zone is a group of countries that have agreed to abolish routine border checks between themselves, so you are only checked on entry into the zone; after that, travel between countries in the zone is like travel between US states. You will go through customs in Rome (again, customs is usually just a walk-through in Europe).

If you are flying from the US through Paris to Rome on separate tickets, you will go through both immigration and customs in Paris; your flight from Paris to Rome does not involve either.

At airports in Europe, you will use your passport as your ID; this is not the same as immigration.

Flying home, your flight from Rome to Paris will only involve security (no customs or immigration). Leaving Paris, be sure to get to the airport 3 hours before your flight; the airport is huge and busy, and some are reporting major delays (I had no problems in May 2018 and breezed through, but this won't help you if you miss your plane due to delays). You will go through security then passport control to board your flight. On arrival in your first US airport, regardless of your final destination, you will go through immigration (passport control), then customs. If you have further flights, you will have to go through security to get to them.

If your US arrival airport is one of the 24 that are currently using the Mobile Passport app, get the app - it has saved me LOTS of time! Here's the list: https://www.cbp.gov/travel/us-citizens/mobile-passport-control

As for transportation within Rome, Rick's book will explain how the metro is of some use for visitors, but is limited. Buses, on the other hand, go almost everywhere. They take the same tickets. If you don't get a Roma Pass, you may want to get a 3 day transit ticket.

Finally, I agree with everyone else. With just a few days (the first one likely a jet-lagged haze), just stay in Rome. Part of how to love Rome is NOT to run around trying to see "sights," and instead just slow down and soak it in.

Posted by
32 posts

I am going for 6 days early november. I found visitacity site helpful in planning. It gives you suggested sites and directions near each other. You then can remove ones you are not interested in and add in other places. It lets you know times the sites are open which is important for churches which may close mid day.

Posted by
16698 posts

I found visitacity site helpful in planning. It gives you suggested
sites and directions near each other.

Hi Monica -
One kindly caution? I would not use the site mentioned above to book the tickets or tours they're advertising or even check hours. You want to use the official websites for tickets to the individual attractions, and the websites for the attractions themselves whenever possible for hours/closures as those can change unexpectedly.

The site mentioned above appears to be an outlet for tickets/tours through Viator and they're a 3rd-party broker: you can usually get a better price from the official ticketing outlets. Example? They're asking $45.21 for a general-entry skip-the-line ticket to the Vatican Museums that you can purchase from the Vatican's own site for € 21.00 ($24.51 by today's currency conversion). Rick's guide should have a listing of official ticketing sites or we can help you here on the forum with resources for tickets and tours. :O)

Additionally I see that they're advertising the Omnia Card? By all means give that one a skip: not worth the excessively high price. The ho-ho bus ride it covers is also not a good way to get around Rome. We have used the metro a couple of times but central Rome is very walkable and more fun to see on foot anyway!

Lastly, I'll throw my vote in with the others to spend all of your 4 days in Rome or at least travel no further than Ostia Antica. There are a TON of things to see and experience in the Eternal City, and daylight will be short in late November.

Posted by
33 posts

I've had company tonight so I"m just now getting a chance to catch up but I'm overwhelmed by all of your detailed and helpful replies.
First off, we will take everyone's advice and STAY in Rome for all 4 days, how could we not when you allllll seem to be in agreement on that one :). We will also buy Rick Steve's Rome book that many of you suggested, and probably also follow RS 4 day plan, thank you zcorsair for sharing the link to that, it is VERY helpful.

We will definitely take your advice avirosemail to branch off from the main thorough-fares . You immediately put my mind at ease with your explanation of strolling down the Corso from our home base at the top of the historic triangle, and Lucifero looks ah-mazing, as does Context Travel tours, thank you so much for sharing your expertise.

iralbright21 thank you for sharing the ATAC route planner tip, that seems like it will be super helpful. I wonder if there's ever a time that the Vatican Museum isnt a zoo??? And thanks for sharing about the Borghese museum, we'll be next door neighbors with the Borghese Gardens and we both love sculptures, so the museum, and also the Appian Way, are going on our short list.

TC thanks for Rome Cabs info, its nice to know all our options! Suki, we are looking forward to checking out both of those food Apps- thanks so much. And LA thanks for pointing out that the 2nd day may be worse, we'll keep that in mind as we plan. Robbie, we will do exactly as you suggest and allow ourselves plenty of time to wander neighborhoods, connecting interesting points along the way, and just soaking it all in.

Harold, I can't thank you enough for your detailed explanations of what to expect at each airport, that's the kind of thing that is nerve wracking until you've done it once, but you have really put our minds at ease. Truly, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to explain it so thoroughly and yes! our airport works with the mobile passport app, so that's going to be a huge help too.

maryellenrosen I think your tip for Vistacity sounds super helpful for learning whats close to what, thanks so much, but Kathy, I will use caution when using the site so thanks for that heads up.

We are off now to google and learn more about everything you've suggested so far, thank you so much everyone for sharing your expertise!
Monica

Posted by
174 posts

I doubt there is a time when the Vatican Museums aren’t crowded. That being said, we went twice during our trip... once on a Saturday and once on a Monday. The crowd level was noticeably different from Saturday to Monday. I would shoot for a weekday if you can. I think RS lists Wednesday’s as the best. I would still consider them worth it.

If the Sistine Chapel is important to you, what you could look into is going on the Vatican Website and booking an early morning tour (ie before the museums open to the public). There is one where you have breakfast at the museum and then go directly to the Sistine Chapel. I believe they start at 7-7:30 am. Even with doing that, I would still say check out the museum but that’s one way to get around the crowds at the chapel.

And remember, the VM and Borghese absolutely require advance reservations. :) Go buy that RS book!

Posted by
33 posts

Going to buy the Rick Steve’s book tomorrow, what do you guys prefer, online version or hard copy?

Posted by
10 posts

I prefer the hard copy. And I wouldn't worry too much about second day jet lag. You're in Rome and too excited to feel sleepy!!! On first trip, I arrived about 8 a.m. Dropped bags at hotel and went for a walk. I did take an early afternoon nap, but went back out afterward. Went to bed about 9 or 10 and got up at 8. Just force yourself into Rome's time schedule from the beginning and it won't be a problem.

Posted by
34221 posts

what do you guys prefer, online version or hard copy

I think a lot depends on your reading style.

I've used both, in different circumstances. I find that reading at home, highlighter in hand, with little bookmarks, the book is great.

On the road, and for quick checks of things and online checks, I prefer the e-reader type. You can still highlight, but a bit less easy for me than a real highlighter, you can also un-highlight (try that with a book), and you can click through to webpages noted in the text (when it is up-to-date). I personally find it to easy to miss things in the e-book, especially on first readings.

Posted by
5577 posts

I won't add much to the extensive advice that you've already been given but one tip I will suggest and that is to visit the Colosseum via the Metro. The sight of the Colosseum as you exit the Metro stop is incredible and it's a sight that never fails to amaze me. Sure, you can approach it on foot but you won't achieve the same wow factor of emerging from the Metro and having it looming right in front of you.

Posted by
2124 posts

The crowd level was noticeably different from Saturday to Monday. I
would shoot for a weekday if you can. I think RS lists Wednesday’s as
the best.

Is that right? If memory serves, aren't Wednesdays the day when the Pope makes his appearance at the portico at St. Peter's? If so, that can't be good day to avoid crowds.

Good thing that you & husband are walkers. Utilize the RS Rome book and then please do a couple of other things--first, buy the Streetwise street map of Rome. Reportedly the company is out of business but I think you can still find them online. Then, first chance you're at Termini station, at the kiosk near the door to the buses buy a laminated transit map of Rome--it quickens the learning curve immensely!

You really should get a 2 or 3 day bus/metro pass, just a few Euro, and the beauty of it is that you only need to validate it at the machine at the front of the bus your first trip, then just hop on (at either door, front or back) from then on. The 'clock' will start when you validate. You can buy these passes at any tabacchi shop or at Termini. Just remember to hang onto your receipt of your purchase. Personally, I like using public transport unless I'm dog tired and need to go back to the hotel right now! Then a taxi makes sense.

Armed with those things, you can 'Rome-wander'--which is wonderful and intoxicating--to your heart's content and not even worry about getting lost. In fact, we would almost 'try' to lose our way, knowing there were so many cool things we'd find just by happenstance.

Enjoy your planning!

Posted by
5273 posts

My preference is the hard copy of the guide book. The one time we used an eBook version the maps left a great deal to be desired. But that might have changed by now. Perhaps the eBook to save weight and space and a good old fashioned hard copy map will give the best of both worlds.

Posted by
7955 posts

Hi Monica, scanning your very helpful replies, I haven’t seen anyone mention a side topic of money belts. It’s mentioned very briefly in the RS Rome book, and you might not see it. Be sure to purchase a money belt (available at RS store, REI, Amazon, etc.) that is worn underneath your clothes and holds your passport, credit cards/ATM cards, and majority of your Euros. Then you can enjoy walking all over, including the airport & train stations, and not worry about a pick pocket ruining your trip. It’s mentioned a lot in this Forum and on RS tours, but I see you are new to the Forum.

Be sure to walk over to the Pantheon in the evening and enjoy a gelato nearby. People are out late at all of the main sites, and the ancient buildings seem even more special with the night lighting.

If you would like to participate in an authentic cooking class, Chef Andrea at cookingclassesinrome.com was a half day we really enjoyed. We learned so much about the Italian way of cooking, etc.