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Rome, Abruzzo, Amalfi or Rome, Amalfi, Abruzzo? and any other helpful thoughts or suggestions? :)

Greetings! We are planning a trip to Italy in mid to late June 2022 for two weeks (give or take a day). We are planning on going to Rome, the Pescara province of Abruzzo and the Amalfi Coast area. ...and if that is not enough of a challenge ….. We will be a group of 8 or 9 and one member of our party needs to nap daily at about 2:30/3pm. The ages are 13 to mid 60's and only one of us speaks a little Italian, but we are working on it.
I have planned trips for 7 before to France and also to England but we were able to stay in one location and take trains and private transport to see other areas. This time I have 1 -2 extra family and we are covering a larger area. I have been able to find vehicles that hold 9 people and limited luggage, though I still need to crunch numbers to see if it will be cheaper (and/or safer and wiser) to hire a driver for certain areas and rent a car in others. We are looking at doing a few of the “must do’s” in Rome for 4 days and then we are heading out to the countryside on the 5th.
I am comfortable with our itinerary in Rome, but then the uncertainty begins…. Do we go to Abruzzo first or the Amalfi Coast? I was originally thinking we would rent a car or hire a personal driver (recommendations would be greatly appreicated ) to Abruzzo. If we hire a driver, then we will rent a car in Abruzzo. My husband’s family is from the towns of Corvara, Pescosansonesco and San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore. We wish to explore the towns that they are from as well as visit the museum in Chieti that covers the history of the people and also have lunch on a Trabocchi. We would also like to have a day for an outdoor activity i.e. horseback riding/kayaking/ziplining. The goal is to get a feel for the area and see the ancestral towns as well as spend some time outdoors, relax, eat local foods and drink wine. We are looking to locate ourselves in a central area of the Pescara province so that we only have to go about 30 min. one way or the other to get to the beach or to the family towns .
Including the day that we drive there, we are planning on spending about 4 days in Abruzzo. Then we would drive or hire a driver to take us to the Amalfi area. If we drive, we would drop the rental off in Salerno and either get a driver or take a ferry from Salerno, to a local town on the coast. We don’t want to be staying in the touristy areas and would prefer to be in a smaller town on the water. Our goals for our time in this area are to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum (hire a driver) one day, and then on another day we’ll take a ferry/boat ride to explore the other towns. Then spend a day checking out the small town and relaxing on the beach. The next day we would head back to Rome. I know that there is a train to Rome from Salerno and we were thinking that would be the easiest, but my husband and I have always wanted to visit the gardens of Ninfa. Providing that we could arrange to be there on a day that it is open, we were thinking we could hire a driver to take us from Salerno to Rome with a stop at Ninfa on the way, or vice versa if we go from Rome to Amalfi.

For the most part, our site seeing will take place during the day (hotter locations earlier in the morning) and stop for nap time. Then on a few days we might head out after nap, but for the most part, we plan on relaxing in the evenings. In the past, only a couple members of our family had the energy to go out at night. We are looking at renting apartments/houses as we go, as well.
All this said, I am wondering if we should go to Abruzzo first or to the Amalfi area first and then head over to Abruzzo? I am looking for town recommendations in Pescara and on the Amalfi Coast and in general am looking for any ideas to make this a better trip. All the places listed have been requested by family members and we have whittled it down to this and are hoping it is feasible. Again, any suggestions are appreciated.

Posted by
1072 posts

Wow, this sounds like a fantastic trip! San Valentino is just down the road from our little town, so I'll wade in with my two cents. Short story is I don't think one direction is more "right" than the other. I would base your decision on activities planned, with more active coming first, less active/relaxing at the end. I'm thinking of both weather patterns (later June may be hotter) and vacation rhythm (may be tired and need to relax before heading back to work.) Beach days and boat trips can be done even if it's sizzling hot. Hiking and mountain activities would be better in slightly cooler weather. This year, it didn't get really hot here until the very end of June. But there's no guarantee that will repeat.

Abruzzo activities: you'll be in the heart of the mountain national/regional parks so outdoor activities are plentiful. There are two local companies that run daily guided events, from hikes to e-bike tours to canoeing. Both are very good and responsible, we've done a few and intend to do many more. Check out Majellando and Majambiente for schedules, there is lots of choice. Another fun outing is a day on historic trains (Railroad of the Parks.) They depart from Sulmona and go to several destinations through the parks. We've got a rail tour booked for the end of this month that includes an overnight stay at a former hermitage way way up a mountain.

You talked about being halfway between mountain towns and beach in Abruzzo. We've been to a trabocco near the Vasto area and have been to the beach at Casalbordino. Both were fun. There's a new paved bike path along the coast for miles (and more being added) if that interests you. They are an hour+ from here, though. Pescara is closest, at 45 minutes, but is not as beautiful. But since you'll have beach time at Amalfi, I would vote for more mountain time and I also would not stay any further east than San Valentino - it gets hotter, drier and more industrial the closer you get to Pescara/Chieti.

I haven't been to the Amalfi Coast yet, I have a trip booked for late September. All I know so far is it's an 8+ hour drive from here, so I am breaking that up with an overnight stop. Conveniently for me, Matera is almost exactly halfway and it's been on my wish list for years. Whichever way you go around your circuit, I would consider daily travel times. Maybe you do want to push through in one go and relax once you arrive, or maybe you want to plan shorter travels and half day sightseeing. Rome to San Valentino is 2.5 hours and a gorgeous drive.

That's all I have to offer at the moment. Feel free to ask if you have other questions.

EDIT: the 8 hour drive from Amalfi to Abruzzo was based on a longer trip plan I made for my relatives, where we plan to swing down the Adriatic coast first. Sorry if I misled you, I forgot we deliberately chose a longer route.

Posted by
4105 posts

Is it necessary to start in Rome? Are you flying R/T Rome? If so, keep all your Rome days for last and avoid an extra hotel transfer.

There's a bus that leaves Fiumicino Airport several times a day for Pescara, times seem reasonable.

https://www.prontobusitalia.it/index.php?option=com_prontobus&view=orari&Itemid=104&layout=lista&lang=en

Rent your cars there to head SAN Valentino.
You're better off with at least 2 cars. It will cost you less than a large van.

Nelly has recently moved to the area and has some great suggestions for things to do in the area.

After Abruzzo head to Salerno. Car makes the most sense and will save you 4 hrs. compared to train.

For a layed back town on the Amalfi Coast look at the small fishing village of Cetara.
Has easy access by ferry to/from Salerno.

https://www.travelmar.it/_download/orari-travelmar-1-luglio.pdf

Or stay in Salerno. Visit this great little garden.
https://www.livesalerno.com/minerva-gardens

You could even take the ferry to Salerno and train to Pompei, 1 mile walk or 5 minute taxi ride to Pompeii Scavi. Go as early as possible as there's no shade. I definitely would not try to do it and Herculaneum in the same day.

Train Salerno-Rome.

Edit: Cetara

https://www.e-borghi.com/en/village/Salerno/540/cetara

Posted by
3 posts

Hi Nelly,
Thank you so much for this wonderful information! I had a moment to check out the first touring service that you suggested and couldn't believe all that they offer! I am looking forward to looking into the other two websites!
Thank you also for sharing that it is more industrial towards Pescara and Chieti. I'm thinking we will focus most of our time in the mountains, but one lunch in a Trabocchi. :) You also make a great point about the travel time and need to rest. That said, I am wondering why it takes 8+ hours from your village? Does traffic or construction work double the time? I have been using Google Maps to get ideas about the times between the areas and I have no desire to drive 8+ plus hours to get to the Amalfi Coast, so we may need to approach this from Rome. Thank you again! This is so very helpful! :)

Posted by
3 posts

Hi Gerri,
This is great information! I don't know if everyone in the group can handle a flight and then the bus ride, but I am definitely going to look into it (as you make an excellent point regarding hotel transfers) and run it by the group. Also great point about the cars,but only one of us can drive manual. I am going to look into the cost of one manual and one automatic. No, we are not set on R/T Rome and I was also considering arriving in Naples and leaving from Rome or vice versa, depending on cost. I am so happy you referred to Cetara! I have been eyeing Cetara and am happy to learn that there is a ferry from Salerno. As for Pompeii and Herculaneum, that is very good to know. We also have to keep an eye on the heat factor so I will definitely look at this again. Thank you for the garden rec. in Salerno too - this is all so helpful! :)

Posted by
4772 posts

I can attest that Cetara is lovely, small and pretty, with great seafood. We enjoyed it without having ferry service, and I am sure with a ferry it will be more convenient. Home rentals may be harder to come by there just because of the size. There is a hotel on the sea. We stayed in a b&b up the hillside above Cetara.
I wish I could advise on how to fit Rome, Abruzzo, and the Amalfi coast into one two-week trip, but good luck! If Abruzzo is anything like Marche, the driving inland is slow, but you can zip up and down the coast fairly quickly.

Posted by
397 posts

@Palmer

My daughters-in-law’s grandparents emigrated from San Pio delle Camere area, which is about 25 kms to the west of the area of your husband’s heritage.

In Jan 2020 I wrote a small treatise about our time in the area.

Try "Gran Sasso Area of Abruzzo" in the search box.

More specifically as you are probably meeting up with distant relatives, I happily share the following experiences.

The girls in my family selected some likely accommodation and then my daughter-in-law had the Italian cousins check them out and recommend the best ones. It worked.

Took along with us local craft, particularly indigenous wood items, and jewellery from an international renown artist and other items as gifts. Also found out one of the cousins was partial to quality red wine. Took along three of my best bottles from the Margaret River region. Contacted the Italian embassy in Canberra, and also spoke with the local chargé d'affaires to confirm what we could and could not take.

On our second night in San Pio, we were taken to a local restaurant to meet the relatives and their friends, and locals. A bit like being in the monkey cage at a zoo. We were the attraction for the night. The menu was their selection of local food and wines. Olives, pecorino cheeses, salami, wild boar, and lamb dishes. Cannot remember what was for dessert. I was particularly fond of the wild boar salami. Questions about where we lived and what we did. Lots of laughter when my daughter-in-law tried explaining in her broken Italian, and me in my rubbish Italian. The teenager relatives, who spoke quite good English acting as interpreters. After that, most people in the village gave us a wave and ciao. I was overwhelmed by the people.

Had a great night and the organisers refused to let me pay. Remember you are there to enjoy their country not to compare it with yours.

If you can/should make contact with your relatives, no matter how distant, they are most likely to be your best resource. Also, from my experience, they will be over the moon to hear from you and then meet you. Easy-peasy these days with email and other social applications.

You might have a big win and find one or two relatives are into preserving Italian motor history. Maybe an Alfa or Fiat spider from the 60/70’s. It is fun being driven through the countryside on a warm summer’s day.

Do not forget to invite them to your home and country, and if you have been financially successful, offer to help in sponsoring them. A heart-warming experience. This is an important part of your husband, children, and grandchildren’s DNA, make the most of it. For me infinitely more enjoyable than 3 or 4 hours at the Colosseum or 2 or 3 days in Venice.

Try the following in your browser: Italy unexplored Abruzzo. Should take you to a you tube site for a Sydney chef with roots in Pescara. Also, try: Silvia Colloca. Cook, actress, opera singer and author. From Teramo in Abruzzo. Made a series for our Special Broadcasting Service TV channels about cooking in Abruzzo show casing its towns. Maybe region restricted.

Just between you and me, always ask for the menu in Italian. Usually, more choices and better prices. Do not get upset, it is just business. Helps add more words to your vocabulary.

Cannot help with your car questions. I enjoy driving in Italy, in fact I find it a pleasure. I find the drivers confident and competent and have no problem understanding the signage. Many others have the complete opposite view.

I miei migliori auguri. Godere.

Ron