on our recent trip to Capri we followed the RS itinerary which suggests
- taking an early ferry (8am or so) to beat the crowds
- doing the circle-the-island boat tour
- Anacapri
- Capri Town
We got to the ticket office shortly before 8am as suggested and by 8:30am were standing on Capri, nary a crowd to be seen. Yay Rick!
Unfortunately we continued to follow Rick's advice. First off the boats around the island didn't leave until around 9am so we got to stand and inhale exhaust as they warmed up while time rolled by. The trip around the island was indeed wonderful, but by the time we got back and made our way to the line for bus and funicular tickets (two adjoining lines, each selling only one type of ticket) any advantage we had over the crowds was long since gone. Burned easily 20+ minutes just buying the tickets (apparently every bus ticket purchaser is required to have a lengthy discussion with the agent about buses, where they go and how to ride them, plus an optional topic of their choice) and the bus line up to Anacapri easily takes another 45 minutes of standing. We ended up splitting a taxi up with another couple after 10 minutes in line, figuring vacation time was more valuable than the 50E with tip taxi ride up.
Here's our advice: take the early boat as RS suggests. Then buy tickets and head directly to Anacapri, taking note of the ferry return times to Sorrento (sold next to the bus and funicular tickets. Ride the chairlift in Anacapri up to Monte Solaro for the great view; even if the line stretches across the piazza they load a person every 5 seconds or so, the line takes less than 15 minutes. After visiting the towns up on the hill it will be the afternoon and at that point return to the port via the funicular and take the boat trip around Capri if it fits into your plans (eg. ferry return times).