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Returning to Rome & Orvieto

In early March, I will visit Rome (4 nights) for the 5th time - so excited! This visit is the first leg of a trip that includes Florence and Cortona. I'm looking to try a few things I haven't tried on previous visits. Would love to hear thoughts on:

  1. Museo delle Mura - thinking of spending a few hours there on a Friday morning. I'd love to hear from anyone who has been there.

  2. Dinner in Testaccio - do you have a favorite restaurant in this neighborhood? What about a place for aperitivo time? Anyone know if Tram Depot is open in March? Hard to tell from their social media accounts.

  3. Adding a stop to Rick's Heart of Rome Walk - thinking about a detour into the Galleria Sciarra. Anyone been there? Worth the detour?

  4. From Cortona, we will take a day trip (by train) to Orvieto. Does anyone have a favorite lunch spot?

Thanks!

Sharon

Posted by
338 posts

In Orvieto, I recommend Trattoria del Moro Aronne for lunch.

Posted by
1106 posts

I have not been on the Galleria Sciarra. However, in the vicinity of the RS Heart of Rome walk, I went to the Galleria Spada. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit. There were only two other visitors, I even had one of the employees give me a personal tour!

https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/galleria-spada

Posted by
217 posts

Hi Sharon,
Elizabeth Minchilli, a well respected Italy expert and food blogger, recommends a restaurant in Testaccio called Perilli. I have not personally eaten there but plan to this spring. She chose this restaurant as where she would want to eat "her last meal before the rapture, an earthquake or the end of days." Here is a link to her piece: https://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2011/05/last-meal-before-the-raptureearthquakeend-of-days-perilli/

Posted by
291 posts

Marco - Thanks for the Orvieto recommendation! Do you think we should make reservations for a weekday lunch in March?

Mary - I will for sure check out the Galleria Spada - sounds like a true backdoor experience.

joeandrose - I love Elizabeth Minchilli (her daughter Sophie helped me plan my trip to Puglia!). I will definitely look into Perilli.

Appreciate all the help!

Sharon

Posted by
28247 posts

Galleria Sciarra is worth a reasonable detour. I think it depends on how committed or overcommited your time in Rome is. I will chase down Art Nouveau anywhere, and I had 20 days in Rome, so... The architecture of the Quartiere Coppede is much more impressive (to me) than the frescoes in Galleria Sciarra, but you're unlikely to be close to Quartiere Coppede in the course of your other sightseeing.

Posted by
291 posts

acraven - Thanks for the suggestion. We are staying in Termini neighborhood (The Beehive). Can you suggest a way to get to Quartiere Coppedè via public transportation?

Thanks!

Sharon

Posted by
79 posts

Unfortunately Hostaria Postarula appears to be permanently closed - at least under that name. There is a restaurant with another name in that space as of October 2023. We enjoyed Hostaria Postarula in 2019 and were looking forward to visiting again, but sadly not the case. We like Antico Bucchero, La Pergola and Charlie’s, as well as Moro Aronne.

Posted by
28247 posts

I used CityMapper to research weekday transportation options from Termini to the area of Quartiere Coppede. These may be the best:

  • Take Bus 38 (toward Porta di Roma), which runs every 15 minutes. It appears you're looking for the MA-MB-FS stop (I don't use CityMapper a lot.) Get off at the Trieste/Trento stop and walk 7 minutes.

  • Take Metro A to Barberini, walk to Barberini (MA) bus stop and take the 63 (toward Rossellini) or 83 (toward Largo Valsabbia) bus to the Tagliamento/Clitunno stop, then walk 3 minutes.

  • Take Metro B or B1 to Policlinico and take the Viale Regina Margherita exit. Find the Viale Regina Margherita/Morgagni bus stop and take Bus 88 toward Labia. Get off at the Trieste/Trento stop and walk 7 minutes.

I think I walked from somewhere else in Rome (maybe Galleria Borghese) the first time I went to Q.C., then the second time I used the third option listed above, doing some wandering off to the east along the way.