Please sign in to post.

Report from the ground in Italy

I’ve been in Italy for almost two weeks now and I thought I’d give a little report about what things are like. My first week was in Bologna and this week was Florence.

Museums/Sights- almost everything is open. A few places that are too small to follow the current government max occupancy rules are closed. For instance, the Orsanmichele church and the State Apartments at the Pitti Palace in Florence are currently closed for that reason. Guidebooks such as RS and Lonely Planet aren’t very reliable with the current Covid rules. That’s not their fault, they couldn’t possibly keep up with all the changes in rules. Check everything!! Research is what is going to make a trip possible this summer. Don’t trust Google or any guidebook for opening days/hours. You have to look at every website or go by the place if you’re already there.

Reservations- in the major tourist cities (Venice, Florence, Rome) assume that you need to check to see if reservations are required. According to the Italian government Covid rules, all places that sell tickets must be reserved at least one day in advance if you are visiting on a weekend or holiday. Now, in practice that wasn’t required at some of the smaller places. But be aware that is the current rule. For instance, today in Lucca (Saturday) I walked into every place I went with no reservation. Each place is deciding whether to enforce that rule or not.

Transportation- trains are running at 50% occupancy, which is actually very nice. You never have someone sitting beside you or across from you. However, with some more popular routes, trains can sell out faster now. Once they sell 50% of the seats, that train is no longer available. Just plan ahead. That’s usually only an issue on the high-speed trains and some Regionale Veloce trains during morning and late afternoon rush hours. Buses don’t seem to have any rules about max occupancy. Or at least no one was enforcing them.

Restaurants- when I arrived the only option was outdoor seating. On June 1 indoor seating was reopened across the country. That makes it much easier to find a place to eat without having a reservation.

Tourists- because things are opening back up, there are definitely people visiting the tourists sights. In Bologna it was almost exclusively Italians at tourists sights. In Florence there were a lot more foreign tourists (Germans, Russians and Americans in that order), but still many fewer than normal. I got a picture of the David statue with no one in front of it. There were only about 15 people in the room.

Prognosis for summer- currently most of Italy is still in the “yellow zone” which means you can travel between regions and restaurants and museums, etc. are all open. The hope from the Italian government is that the whole country will be in the white zone within a few weeks. That doesn’t mean that much for us, but supposedly there is talk that the outdoor mask mandate may be dropped on July 1. Nothing definite yet.

Hope this helps. I’m happy to answer any specific questions you guys have!!

Posted by
3250 posts

An excellent update!

It makes me feel hopeful...

Grazie Bill!

Posted by
4614 posts

Really appreciative of you taking the time to share you experiences.

Posted by
3812 posts

Now, in practice that wasn’t required at some of the smaller places. But be aware that is the current rule. For instance, today in Lucca (Saturday) I walked into every place I went with no reservation.

Since May 19 the mandatory reservation system has been restricted to the museums and the archaeological sites who had more than 1,000,000 visitors in 2019. I doubt there are many in Lucca.

To avoid nasty surprises on the ground, do not plan your visits on the assumption that "Each place is deciding whether to enforce that rule or not". Civil servants working in museums strictly live on a "always cover holy a**s" basis, so they never freely decide anything.

Posted by
3847 posts

It's really kind of you to take some time from your trip to let forum participants know what things are like in Italy. Thanks for the update!

Posted by
15807 posts

Terrific report, Bill! That point you made about not trusting guidebooks/random googles for certain information was so spot on that I quoted you in the "COVID-19 & Travel" forum under "Tips & Trip Reports." Keep us posted as your adventure continues!

Posted by
401 posts

Dario,

Thanks for your clarification. I’m just reporting on my experiences and am in no way an expert on Italian government regulations. My comment about some places not following what I believed to still be the rule for weekends/holidays was based on the fact that almost every website I looked at during the last week of May and the first week of June had a reference to that requirement for weekend reservations. Maybe some of them haven’t updated their websites since May 19. I am also certainly not suggesting that anyone take the regulations lightly. I just meant that you might need a reservation and you might not. Be prepared for anything. In reference to Lucca, every place I went to today clearly had a sign outside saying reservations were required. I had no reservations and got in everywhere. I’m not suggesting people follow my example, I’m simply relating my experiences.

Posted by
338 posts

Thank you Bill for the excellent update! I hope you’re having a great time and eating lots of wonderful food.

Posted by
7357 posts

What about restaurants, in Bologna and elsewhere you’re going, Bill? Many people dining, and are most places open? Reservations recommended, or mandatory?

Thank you so much for your reports - enjoy your vacation!

Posted by
401 posts

Cyn,

Everything in regards to restaurants seems to be normal. What I mean is that they’re all open, lots of people are out eating. Places that usually would need a reservation because they’re popular, or because it’s the weekend, still need a reservation. The only difference is that there are fewer tourists, so that makes things easier. I’ve not had a problem getting a table so far, but I go early when they open and I think sometimes the fact that I speak Italian helps.

Posted by
116 posts

Thanks again for an excellent update Bill. Very, very generous of you to inform us of what's happening live and on the ground. Do you think you could post something when you fly home, specifically about getting your PCR/Antigen test before you board? I've checked out "TestforTravel.com" and they list two companies - Bianalisis and Synlab - in the Florence area that allegedly offer turn around results within 48 hours.
Best regards,

Posted by
401 posts

John,

I’m not flying home for awhile, but when I do I’ll be certain to post what coming home is like!

Posted by
9570 posts

Bill, thanks for taking the time to put together this report on your current experience. This is really helpful.

Posted by
260 posts

Thanks for the report! In Florence is the Firenze available and if not do they have a timetable? We’re planning on being there in October

Posted by
15807 posts

In Florence is the Firenze available and if not do they have a
timetable?

edryer4356, did you mean the Uffizi or some other museum (Firenze is Florence in Italian...but pretty sure you knew that) ? :O)

Posted by
647 posts

Curious about masks: Are masks required in museums/indoor sights? Are people wearing masks while walking on the streets of cities and small towns?

Posted by
15807 posts

Ah, you mean the Firenzecard, edryer4356. You can check the current status yourself on the website. Pretty sure our friend Bill won't know anything more than has been posted there, and may also be moving on from Florence soon (Bill?)

http://www.firenzecard.it/en

At this moment, the Firenzecard Circuit has not yet been reactivated
in order to allow the completion of the reopening plan of the
participating museums and sites, and the Firenzecard cannot be used
for access to the museums.

http://www.firenzecard.it/en/news/firenzecard-work-progress-museums-are-opening-and-card-work

....in compliance with the provisions implemented to contain the
spread of COVID-19, the Firenzecard Circuit has not yet been
reactivated in order to allow the completion of the reopening plan of
the participating museums and sites. And the Firenzecard itself, at
the moment, cannot be used for access to museums. All our staff is
working to ensure that Firenzecard soon becomes again your key to
access the infinite beauties of the city and give you those emotions
that only art can give you live. We remind you that the information is
constantly updated. Therefore, continue to follow us by consulting our
site and following our social channels.

So as instructed, keep your eyes on the website to see what happens with the card. :O)

Posted by
401 posts

Carol,

I didn’t say anything about masks in my original post because I didn’t want it to be taken as political or risk getting the post removed. I’ll say what I have seen. Masks are required on all public transportation and indoors everywhere. I have seen that being followed 100%. On trains and in museums people are reminded that the mask must cover both the nose and mouth. Outside is a different story. Of course while eating or drinking, masks are not required. In general masks are required outdoors (for now) although there are exceptions for exercising and other activities, but what I have observed in Bologna and Florence, as well as several other smaller cities I’ve day tripped to, is about 50% of Italians are wearing their mask outside. Another 40% wear them, but completely under their jaw. Then about 10% aren’t wearing them at all. I’m not judging or criticizing any choices. Just reporting what’s going on in the cities I’ve visited. It may be very different in other parts of Italy. And as I mentioned in an earlier post, it’s possible that the outdoors mask mandate may be lifted entirely next month.

Posted by
1161 posts

Bill, thanks so much for this update. Are you staying entirely in Italy? We were wondering what it would be like to cross over into another country, ie France, or if it's best just to do one country at this time. We are still trying to search COVID flights from Houston. Most anything we try has layovers in London, Frankfurt or in New York. Wondering how that will affect getting in to Italy, or for that matter, anywhere else.

Posted by
401 posts

JR,

As you can see, I’m from TX too!! I’m staying all in Italy for this trip. I didn’t want to bother with rules for crossing borders and possibly getting tested twice or more. It certainly is possible, just more complicated, unless you end up going from Italy to a country that only needs a vaccine card. As for Covid flights, they do not have to go nonstop from TX. You can connect on Delta in JFK or Atlanta. You’ll have to do your antigen test in a different place once there but they were making numerous announcements for passengers who were connecting to the Milan flight. Delta was also very good about explaining all the different scenarios depending on whether you were checking in at JFK/ATL or starting your travel elsewhere in the country. I tried to find a flight on Delta from IAH or DFW to Milan (through JFK/ATL), but the only options the website would offer me were through Paris or Amsterdam, which doesn’t work right now. That’s probably because I used miles for my ticket. So I paid for a separate ticket to NYC, spent the night, and then flew JFK-Milan. Supposedly American is also doing Covid-tested flights to Italy. I wasn’t able to figure out how to find them, but maybe you’ll be able to.

Posted by
125 posts

Bill - thank you SO much for sharing these reports and details!!
Currently deciding between a trip to Italy at the end of August (Rome and one other place as a base TBD) vs trip to France at beginning of September. Your "on the ground" updates are so appreciated and look forward to seeing what July 1 brings.
Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
100 posts

Bill, thank you for your original post and updates. Much appreciated.

Posted by
1161 posts

Great info Bill - quick question
Lufthansa/United is having a fare sale in August nonstop to Frankfurt, then connecting flight to either Rome or Milan. They do not specify they are a covid specific flight. Since it's not non-stop directly into Italy, do you know if we will have to quarantine? We are still very confused on this issue. The fares are phenomenal and would hate to miss, but don't know what would happen when we arrive in Rome/Milan.

Posted by
401 posts

JR,

The current rules are the flights must fly nonstop from the US to either Milan or Rome. Delta has options for these Covid-tested flights and supposedly so does American. The flights may not stop anywhere else in Europe. However, it is likely that by August, passengers that are fully vaccinated may be able to take any flights into Italy (or other European countries) and not have to quarantine. July 1 looks like the beginning of this new option, but there are no specifics for Italy yet. The best bet is to keep watching for articles/news about the July 1 new rules. Hopefully in a few weeks we’ll all know more.

Posted by
1161 posts

It's still quite confusing. This was on the Delta site.
On or after July 1, flights from Italy to the United States will again become standard non-Covid-Tested flights. Customers will be required only to meet the U.S. Entry Requirements to fly from Italy to the U.S. There will be no additional testing requirements. So fly a covid tested flight on the way out, but not back in?

Posted by
401 posts

I believe that is reflecting their assumption (or direct knowledge?) that as of July 1, Covid tested flights won’t be necessary anymore due to Americans being allowed to arrive if they’ve been vaccinated. The return flight would only need to meet the US current requirement of a 72-hour PCR test. Things will probably be a bit unclear until the Italian government announces exactly what will happen on July 1. This does make planning kind of difficult, since you don’t know what to expect, but it’s better than not being able to come at all. Obviously, please no one take my posts as hard facts about entrance requirements as of July 1. I’m just passing on what I’ve heard locally. Always refer to an official government and/or airline website. For now I know they may not be very clear about what will happen next month.

Posted by
1161 posts

Note taken. You have provided us all with some very solid information through your travels. Hope you are having fun!

Posted by
104 posts

Thank you for the update. We hope to be there at the end of July. Hoping the current trend continues! Enjoy the rest of your travels.

Posted by
9570 posts

For return entry into the United States, the US will accept either a PCR or antigen test.

Posted by
647 posts

Bill,
Thanks (from a former resident of Lubbock many years ago) for your objective report on masks in Italy. It's great to have an American "on the ground" in Italy reporting on your observations and experiences. A little envious of you to be there without a lot of tourists.

Posted by
4402 posts

speaking of masks, what I've noticed in watching walking-around videos from Europe is many people are "wearing" them on their elbows! Not sure how that works

Posted by
15 posts

Great to hear an on the ground report, appreciate that.

Regarding the high speed trains, is any testing needed in order to get on a train?

Posted by
401 posts

May,

Tests are not needed for train travel. As far as I know tests are also not required to fly within Italy (just as they aren’t in the US).

Posted by
19 posts

(In response to the mask around the elbow)

Mindset seems to be that you have to carry a mask on you, not necessarily wear it, so around the elbow is easy way to show it. See this often at parks where social distancing is easy and masks not really necessary.

Posted by
293 posts

speaking of masks, what I've noticed in watching walking-around videos
from Europe is many people are "wearing" them on their elbows! Not
sure how that works

Depends where the videos are from, but in my part of Europe (Germany) at least, masks are not required on most streets or outdoor places, only in the inner city area where there is a lot of congestion, and inside of all buildings and public transportation. So, I usually have my mask on my wrist or on my bike handlebars, and then just put it on when I go in those types of areas. But every country obviously has its own rules (or in Germany, also every state and Landkreis, depending on the incidence rate).

Posted by
501 posts

Probably could be helpful the official website of the Italian Foreign Office (Ministero degli Esteri) to know who and under which condition can travel in Italy: https://infocovid.viaggiaresicuri.it/index_en.html Is well done and usually updated as soon there are official changes.

About masks at the moment in Italy is mandatory use them everywhere in Italy (both outdoor and indoor), except outdoor if you can keep a physical distance of at least 2 meters from anybody else (except your family). So if you are walking in a city probably is better keep it on, because often you pass very close to other people, but if you are at the beach under you umbrella (far from anybody) you can remove it. Indoor must be kept in any moment, except while you are eating or drinking (has been very discussed the matter that, for how has been written the law, you should lower the mask to introduce the food in your mouth, then rise the mask and chew, then lower the mask for the second piece of food and so on. We like very much create tricky laws impossible to be respected! :-D ).
Is under discussion to change this law after the 15 of July, but at the moment is still applied.

Posted by
15807 posts

We like very much create tricky laws impossible to be respected!

First belly laugh of the day, Ricky! 🤣
A sense of humor helps manage the complexities of dining out, eh?

Posted by
3812 posts

Sometimes I think that Mr Draghi rolls his eyes any time he thinks he is surrounded by a country of wannabe lawyers who are too stupid to understand their own language. If you look carefully, you'll notice that he is developing a way of rolling his eyes without actually doing it. For instance when he had to explain that a calculated risk is a risk seen as tolerable because of the calculations that were made.

The law (page 7) says that "in restaurants customers must wear a mask to protect nose and mouth any time they are not sitting at the table".

Since the law is about the best way to stop a pandemic and not about fashion, wandering if "wear" means "covering eyes and mouth" or not is just ridiculous. Ridiculous, but Not surprising since 90% of Italian journalists would be unemployed if they did not write about silly controversies they have with other journalists. That plus the free and unlimited access to Law Schools...