We have taken this train on several trips, different times, different days of the week, usually April or May, and it always been uncomfortably crowded, standing room only, and almost dangerous. The regional train ( no seat reservations possible) pulls into Varenna already packed. Then crowds of folks get on, and usually the only space available is around the doors. Each time the train lurches, everyone standing ( shoulder to shoulder) also lurches, trying not to fall over luggage , baby strollers, each other, etc. The route is an uncomfortable hour plus- and usually hot!
Has anyone taken this train in the spring when it wasn't so packed? (BTW, coming FROM Milan Cental has never been a problem.)
Obviously, we could hire a private driver,(if we were going to the airport), but that hardly seems sensible when we are connecting to other trains in Milan.
Any wisdom here, or better experiences? Have you found times/ days that aren't packed?
I appreciate any insight, and safe travels to all!
Posted by
Irving
3113 posts
I took that train in Mar '08 from Milano Centrale to Verenna-Esino and back and it was not crowded.
Posted by
TX, USA
4546 posts
Hi, Pat. I took this train Varenna to Milan about a week and a half ago 10:35 am on a Friday. While there was quite a line up to board, it wasn’t at all like this. When it was ok to cross the track, we headed toward the end of the train (people do seem to bunch in the middle) and had no trouble getting a seat. I guess we were just lucky - or maybe not so many people there that day. No one was standing in our car leaving Varenna.
Posted by
OP
San Diego, California
5349 posts
You all are giving me hope! Thanks so much.
Posted by
Firenze, Italy
1612 posts
I wonder why all the people have to go to Varenna. Varenna has the convenience of an easy ferry to Bellagio, but if you do not need a ferry immediately, it looks to me that Bellano would be more spacey (and, on the train back to Milan, you will be coming from a station preceding the Varenna rush). The problem with overtourism is that everybody has to be exactly at the same place at the same hour.
Bellano is home to Andrea Vitali, one of the better Italian writers. A retired MD, Vitali says that almost all the plots of his book begin with him sitting on a bench of the Bellano public park, pretending to read a newspaper, and trying to overhear what passers-by say. Apparently, ordinary people of Bellano have an endless reserve of novel plots.