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Recommendations, please, from Rome to Sorrento

I'm going in February, want to travel slowly, enjoy sightseeing and just being in Italia for 17 days. Venice (3 nights), Naples (4), Sorrento (5), Rome (5). My tentative budget is €50 a day for sightseeing, local transportation, snacks and dinner (full breakfasts at all hotels), but after looking at admission prices in Rome, I'm starting to think that's a little on the low side. Any good, inexpensive dinners you know of?

Day 1 (Friday) fly to Venice via FCO (70 minutes transfer time), land at Marco Polo at 15.35. No jetlag.
Day 2-3 (Sat-Sun), first weekend of Carnevale.
Day 4 (Mon) 5 hour train ride to Naples, arrive 15.35
Day 5-7 (Tues-Thurs) in and around Naples, including a day trip by train to Paestum
Day 8 (Friday) Circumvesuviana some time during the day to Sorrento
Day 9-12 (Sat-Tues) day trips to Amalfi Coast towns by bus
Day 13 (Wed) train to Rome some time during the day
Day 14-16 Rome, Rome, Vatican Museums
Day 17 More Rome, 21.35 flight home from FCO

I'd like recommendations for sights in Naples and the Amalfi Coast, neither of which I've been too, and off-the-beaten path Rome, plus any travel tips. Especially where to get the best cannoli in Naples.

I've booked a hotel in Rome that I've used before. It's close to the Barberini metro station and reasonably priced. If anyone has a hotel in another central area with good transportation, I'm open to it, up to about €80/night.

Posted by
46 posts

Just curious - Will this be your first time in Italy? Where is Florence on your agenda?? I'd scratch Naples for that (and day trip to Naples from Sorrento).

Posted by
7054 posts

For Naples:
- Certosa e Museo di San Martino (monastery overlooking the Bay of Naples - wonderful views, my favorite thing to do in Naples)
- Spaccanapoli (narrow street; atmospheric, but watch your purse and belongings)
- Archeology Museum
- Cloisters of Santa Chiara (Complesso Museale di Santa Chiara)
- Many beautiful, old churches (Museo Cappella Sansevero - Veiled Christ, Gesu Nuovo, etc.)
- Walk along the waterfront, Chiaia and Mergellina districts
- If you like to take in neighborhoods, then take the funicular up to the Vomero district and wander around (not too far from Certosa di San Martino)

I don't think you can go wrong with any pastry, cafe, or pizza place - no need to go to any particular one, whatever looks good and is frequented by locals will turn out just fine. Try the sfogliatelle and baba rum cake - I think they're more of a Neapolitan specialty than cannoli.

I think it's worth taking in an island like Ischia or Capri, although I don't know about ferry frequency. There are two ferry landings (from what I remember) in Naples - one called Mergellina.

Posted by
11613 posts

Yes, cannoli are Sicilian, sfogliatelle are the pastry of Napoli.

Looks like a great plan. From Amalfi, be sure to stop at Sal de Riso pasticceria in Minori.

Posted by
2124 posts

MsMaroon, this is hardly Chani's first rodeo. She's an experienced traveler with great advice but likes to fine-tune on a reasonable budget, which sounds pretty good to me.

And, Chani, the best cannoli in Naples are in Taormina, Sicily... :)

Posted by
15798 posts

I know that cannoli aren't "local" but I've been told that they have crossed the water. I will try the other goodies, including sfogliatelle which sound very tasty, but Ive had a special love for cannoli since my first one some 45 years ago. I have put Minori on my schedule.

Now I'm going to google Agnes's recommendations.

Posted by
3373 posts

I'm envious of your time to roam around Naples. It's still on my bucket list... Whenever I feel I've been living above my budget, I have my large meal at the included hotel breakfast and work with 2-3 healthy snacks the rest of the day. I do have digestives in my luggage just incase I planned incorrectly and awake starving in the middle of the night so I can sleep. In Italy, my healthy snack might not be so healthy...piece of pizza from a deli (forgotten Italian name) and something from the bakery...

Posted by
2124 posts

Chani--

I don't know which it was--Maiori or Minori--but we were riding back to Salerno on the bus from Amalfi, late afternoon, sun starting to descend, and we stopped at what looked like a park which was actually between the road and the sea, on the passenger side of the bus where we were sitting. Not a huge expanse, but for the couple minutes we were stopped, I saw an idyllic setting. Couples walking their children in strollers, children playing with a ball, men talking on a park bench, with the stunning vistas as a backdrop. I wanted to get off and stay there.

Hope it's Minori, for you!

Posted by
11613 posts

Yes, Minori does have that parklike small promenade, as do most of the other towns, but Minori's is so nice because locals use it, too. Last time I was there I saw children "selling" all kinds of little things, kind of a 1-centesimo store. They were 4-10 years old, getting an early start on entrepreneurship. Nonna was just a bench away.

Posted by
15798 posts

My plans are coming together nicely. I will have 3 full days in Naples, then 5 nights in Salerno instead of Sorrento.

In Naples (all plans are somewhat weather-dependent)
Monday, arrive at 3.30, drop luggage at hotel, have a walk around in daylight maybe in Vomero (Certosa e Museo di San Martino) and stay for the view after dark (sunset's at 5.30), dinner or pizza there
Tuesday, RS self-guided walking tour. Looks like it will take all day, with stops.
Wednesday, day trip to Caserta
Thursday, Napoli Sotterranea underground tour, other sights that I passed on the RS tour but didn't visit, archaeology museum if there's time.
Friday visit the archaeology museum and/or any other sights I think I've missed. Then take the train to Salerno.

Next is planning for Salerno, then Roma. 7 weeks to go.

Posted by
11851 posts

Chani,
A couple of budget recommendations for you in Rome and Venice.

Rome
- Dar Poeta in Trastevere not only has one of THE BEST pizza in Rome, it is inexpensive and they have huge, reasonably priced salads.
- Da Remo in Testaccio is also among THE BEST for us in pizza, and very inexpensive
- Li Rioni near the Colosseum, Via dei SS Quattro 24. We ate for 30 Euros for two of us, suppli, house wine and pizza. Not the best pizza in Rome, but good, and at least wood-fired.
- Near Piazza del Popolo is La Campana at Vicolo della Campana 18. Great antipasto buffet where a reasonably full plate was 8 Euros. Good pasta. Two of us had house wine, pasta and the buffet for 58 Euros.
- I have always loved Antica Taverna near Piazza Navona at Via Monte Giordano, 12. You can get pasta for 8-10 Euros, secondi for 10-14. They have had great lamb, roast chicken, and favorite melanzane al forno.

Venice
- Alla Palanca on the Giudecca. Lunch only and worth the trip. Very small. Go early.
- Trattoria Bar Pontini near the Ghetto is small, partronized largely by locals, with home cooking and great prices.
- We had a lovely meal at Bottega ai Promessi Sposi, too, paying 58 Euros for the two of us.

Without wine, any of these will be less expensive. :-)

Posted by
15798 posts

Thanks, Laurel. I've noted all your suggestions. I'm not sure if I'll enjoy the Neapolitan pizza. I like really thin crusts, so if I don't overdose on pies in the south, Roman pizza will definitely be welcome.

Posted by
11851 posts

If you like the Roman thin crust pizza, Da Remo has got to be on your list! Have a suppli for me.

Posted by
5 posts

Grano in Rome (not far from the Piazza Del Popolo also has fabulous pizza.