Random Sicily questions

I am going to address #5. Since you will have a car coming from Ragusa following the coast I recommend visiting the archeology ruins at Selinunte rather than those at Agrigento. I am probably not in the majority on my opinion, but I much preferred Selinunte to Agrigento. Both were beautiful and worth a visit but I found Agrigento to be absolutely packed with tourists, all vying for that perfect pose and photo. Very crowded. I was there in September 2019 so maybe in your April/May timeframe it is less crowded. Selinunte is expansive and it was almost empty. It sits right next to the sea and is very scenic. There are multiple ruin sites and you are free to roam. There is a small museum on the grounds but it was not impressive. In Palermo there was a smallish archeology museum called Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas that had better displays and information all about Selinunte. I also liked Segesta. it is a much smaller site, one temple and one ampitheater and some old village ruins. I was there in April once and it was filled with wildflowers. Segesta is quite close to Trapani so both Segesta and Selinunte would fit your route but for me Selinunte was the most impressive. Also since you plan to visit Trapani, go to nearby Erice. Since it is so high, there is often rain or drizzle or fog and it gives it such an eerie medieval feel. Very pretty. I have only driven through Trapani but it looks beautiful and it is on my list for my next Sicily visit.

I did go to Villa Casale in the interior but for me, and again most folks on this forum would probably disagree with me, I personally would not return. I know many people consider it one of the highlights of their visits to Sicily. The major attraction there are the lovely mosaic floors depicting scenes from Roman times. Again, for me it was filled with busloads of tourists in September. To protect the mosaic floors there are narrow scaffolded platforms and everyone is funnelled onto them and everyone has to follow the same confined pathway going forward in one direction. Maybe in other months it is not as crowded but it was packed with hundreds if people and hard to even stop for a few moments to observe and admire the mosaics because of the movement of the crowds surging forward and trying to get to the railings for better views. I know that the crowds combined with the heat influenced my opinion that day.

One small town on your coastal route, right beyond Selinunte, that seems like a living museum is Mazara del Vallo. That would make a good overnight stop. It has lots of narrow alleyways and an old casbah area all filled with Tunisian, Jewish and Christian influence. It was probably my favorite place on my last trip to Sicily.

I have been to Palermo twice and neither time did I fit in a visit to the Palazzo dei Normanni, (Palermo royal palace) and its Cappella Palatina. I do regret that. I don't know how many days you have in Palermo. There is so much to see and do in that area so prioritize. Are you going to do a daytrip to Monreale and Cefalù?

We were in Sicily in October, and for the first time we hired a driver instead of renting a car. We used one company that operated throughout the island, so when we moved from one location to the next, they'd send a local driver. Then, from our home bases, we took a bus or train for day trips. At first I thought it was an unnecessary luxury, but for the month, the cost of the car and driver was hundreds of dollars less than renting (including gas, insurance, one-way drop off charges, parking and tolls). We also enjoyed the added bonus of my being able to enjoy the scenery as we drove (especially in the interior of the island where the roads are winding and narrow) as well as the driver's company and local knowledge. I doubt I'd rent a car again anywhere. But, if you do, consider dropping the car at the airport and either taking a taxi, bus or car and driver into town. The drive from the airport into and around the train station was, well, I wouldn't say hair-raising exactly, but I was glad I wasn't doing it. On the palazzos and museums, they all are pretty similar, but don't miss those with mosaics, as they are extraordinary -- especially at the Palazzo dei Normani in Palermo. I wouldn't recommend one museum over another as it's a personal preference issue. Reading a few guidebooks, some internet research and considering your itinerary should narrow down the options for you. On the water, I get it, all the waste of bottled water is problematic, but many times it is served in glass, which of course is recycled. If residents don't drink tap water, there's a reason. For a couple of weeks, I'd stick with the recommendation of bottled water, even if it is environmentally distasteful. Beats lead poisoning.

1. The website does not say it is closed.
2. To my knowledge there is no reason to refrain from drinking tap water in Sicily. More than half of the locals drink it. Water is safe everywhere, unless a specific fountain bears the sign “non potabile”. It’s just that Italians, for cultural and traditional reasons, like to buy bottled mineral spring water (400 Italian companies produce it). You can buy bottled water everywhere, which are also very convenient to carry around while sightseeing. Be aware that restaurants in Italy do not serve tap water. They serve bottled mineral spring water (sparkling or natural). Since bottled spring water is abundant and cheap in Italy (it costs under 50c a liter, or about 2€ at a restaurant), there is nothing to worry about. If your concern is plastic pollution, plastic in Italy is recycled or properly disposed of in landfills. Only about 1% of plastic in the oceans comes from industrialized countries. Most of it comes from developing nations which do not have the infrastructure or the technology to properly dispose of waste.
3. Rental cars are expensive everywhere now, because of the pandemic. I’m paying $1,100 for a 9 day rental in Kauai (HI). You don’t need a car while in Palermo, and from Palermo you could easily visit Cefalù by train. There are also buses that can take you to the temple of Segesta. Catania and Siracusa are other cities where you wouldn’t need a car. Renting a car only for the periods you need it (while visiting small towns and countryside) is a good strategy.
4. Don’t know much about scooter rentals or private drivers in those areas, but I’m sure you can find stuff online. Just be aware that riding a scooter in Italy may not be a great idea unless you are an experienced motorcycle rider.
5. Segesta, Selinunte, Archeological park of Syracuse, Villa Romana Del Casale, Valle dei Templi in Agrigento, are some of the highlights. Check https://www.visitsicily.info/en/

@Roberto Thank you, Roberto. I had some difficulty finding a website for the museum and it sounds like I got the wrong one. What website did you use? I am also going to Kauai this winter (March) I ended up renting from Turo. Still costly but not $100. It is like an Airbnb for cars. They do get favorable reviews and I've had friends that have used Turo. I am paying $630 for 10 days. Rates have been dropping in Hawaii. More so on Oahu, but I would monitor your rental. I have a daughter that goes to graduate school in Hawaii. I've been there three times in the last couple years. Generally, for Oahu, anyway, rates drop as your vacation date nears.

My husband used to drive a motorcycle, a lot. However, I'm only considering a scooter for Lipari and Randazzo.

I am definitely going to all the outdoor archeology parks--Selinunte, Segesta, Agrigento and Siracusa. I'm wondering about the indoor museums that many of the cities have, off the top of my head, Palermo and Siracusa

@Wanderlust. To return at Palermo airport is about $200 more. Could you tell me the name of the company you used for a driver? In regards to the ruins, we are definitely going to all (or most) of the outdoor ruins. It's the indoor museums I'm trying to whittle down. And, trust me, I research and read guidebooks (ad nauseam, some would say, haha)

While in Trapani on the RS tour, our hotel had signs advising against drinking tap water. Our guide said the city's water system was being affected by sea water. I don't think I recall that being said in other locations.

@ Pat, we will day trip to Monreale from Palermo and are staying two nights in Cefalu. We have almost 4 weeks. We are basically going all the way around the perimeter of the island. From Trapani, we will day trip to Erice and another day trip to Marsala and Mazara.

I don't know why my experience at the Villa Romana del Casale was so different; I encountered few other tourists there. The date of my visit was Friday, June 19, 2015. Perhaps not being there on a weekend helped. I believe I arrived in the afternoon; perhaps it's quieter then.

I'd agree that the Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo is top-flight. I don't have specific memories of the archaeological museum in Siracusa; I'm not big on that type of museum except for mosaics and metal work, but I'd remember if I'd been totally bored. However, I believe the museum in Palermo is considered the best on the island, so I don't see any reason not to choose that one.

It's odd that I didn't run into any warnings about the tap water in Sicily before my 2015 trip. Perhaps my research was careless. I generally drank tap water except in restaurants. However, it's easy to stop at a bar and get cold water (no more than 1.50 euros in 2015). It will probably come out of a single-serving bottle, but at least there's a hope the restaurant will recycle the bottle.

https://www.cittametropolitana.ct.it/il_territorio/Informazioni_museo_sbarco.aspx

Ann, You had the disadvantage of there not being a RS guide for Sicily when you went. I often use multiple guide books, but for Sicily, the RS guide has been especially helpful in terms of public transportation, but that is where I've been reading in several sections to not drink the water.

It sounds like we definitely need to get to the Norman Palace in Palermo!

@Roberto, Thanks for the link! We had been so disappointed.

When we checked into the hotel in Palermo for our tour several years ago we asked the gentleman at the front desk about the water issue. He was adamant-don’t drink the water!. We strolled around and saw many folks, clearly locals, buying 4 to 6 packs of large bottles of water. We joined them. I can’t answer the question about the filters you use. I’ve got a very sensitive GI tract and did not wish to risk being disabled for this very active tour.

We drank local water all over Sicily. All of Europe has been fine. Buy a gallon of water at local store and refill your own bottles to solve the little throw away flimsy bottles problem.

Driving in Palermo was a nightmare. The car was picked up at the train station. We survived without incident and eventually got on the road towards Erice. The driving service described earlier sounds like a good solution to a rental car. We used buses for Taormina, Catania, Syracuse, and to get to Agrigento ruins from our hotel. Buses also for trips to/from the airports. Walking is the best way to enjoy the towns and cities. The occasional taxi works too. A rental car is perfect for exploring the interior of Sicily and a stay at an agritourismo.

We visited the ruins in Syracuse and Taormina in one trip. Then the other big three on our second trip (it was almost too much). Villa Casale was a highlight. Also enjoyed the “bones” underground in Palermo. Didn’t visit other museums. Walking, eating, watching the world go by, and talking to locals filled much time. Getting lost off the main tourist areas is lots of fun.

Your trip is long enough to really enjoy all of Sicily. It is one of our favorite areas in Italy. Looking forward to a trip report.

Jules, almost a month in Sicily during springtime sounds wonderful! I was there in May several years ago, and will just add a few random thoughts.
I was there on an RS Tour. With a little extra time at the beginning, I chose to spend my first 2 nights in Erice, which the tour did not visit at all that year. Erice turned out to be my most memorable stop on Sicily, especially in the evenings and early mornings, when the ancient stone town was misty and mysterious, and totally devoid of tourists. Food was wonderful there too, both dinners and pastries. With a month in Sicily, I would certainly encourage you to spend a night or 2 in Erice.
From Erice I took a day-long drive, first to wonderful Segesta, then on to less-wonderful, for me, Selinunte. Then I drove back to the west coast, with a plan to visit both Marsala and Trapani, which I thought were relatively small towns. Turned out both were very congested small cities. I drove into each, never saw a place to park, started happening onto dreaded ZTL signs, then headed back home to Erice without even stopping in either city. If you drive into those cities, I would certainly encourage you to have street maps and identify parking lots. BTW my apartment host in Erice cautioned me about using the cable car between Erice and Trapani because sometimes the wind picks up, the cable car stops running, and people get stuck without a ride back. Maybe the system is better by now.
Also I found the Allied Landing Museum on the outskirts of Catania to be very well done, highly informative and memorable. I just now looked at its website and it looks to be open every day but Mondays plus a handful of holidays.

Sicilians do not drink bottled water because tap water is not safe, they drink bottled water because 20 generations of Sicilians have been thought since they were children:

• not to trust anything coming from the Government. Never.
• that if you ask for tap water at the Restaurant everybody will think that you are a cheap guy whose family can't afford even a 2 € bottle.

If I were a concierge in Sicily I'd also avoid any possible problem telling US tourists not to drink tap water. Sorry, but Why not covering my a*s? For Greta?

Just to clarify, I am not specifically talking about restaurant water. In the RS guides for several cities (trapani and siracusa, for sure) it says, "Tap Water Warning: Because of old pipes, it's not advisable to drink the tap water in XXXX"

@Roberto, thanks for the info on Italy's work to recycle plastic bottles.

When we were in Sicily, we were advised specifically in Trapani, not to drink the tap water, and the hotel was providing two bottles of water per person per day. Not something a hotel would do for free if they didnt have to. At the time I was interested enough to do some googling, and although I couldn't read Italian, what I found were some newspaper references to Trapani being cited by the EU for having inadequate water treatment facilities, and the city asking for EU money to do the upgrading. Of course locals said they used it anyway, but perhaps that was the situation in other places as well.

In regard to driving in Sicily, I've driven all over Europe including Rome, and the UK shifting a stick in the left hand while driving in the left lane, but Palermo is the one place that has given me fright, the drivers in Palermo are truly aggressive in every sense of the word, it is almost a game of chicken every moment behind the wheel, and Palermo has one of the more difficult ZTL zones to avoid in any Italian city I've driven in, you really need to know where it is and how to stay out of it, because the traffic is moving fast and you have no time to stop and make decisions. We basically plotted our exits and entries into and out of Palermo daily on google maps and followed the way points. That said, outside of Palermo, all the rest of the entire island is very easy to drive around.

I would definitely recommend the full coverage insurance if driving and parking in Palermo and avoid any street parking (you will see how scratched and dented everyone's bumpers and fenders are) park in the lots even though you will have to deal with the amateur mafia sponsored 'valet' parking attendants with their hands out.

We drank the water everywhere, one of the things we enjoy traveling in Italy is the ability to drink the water from fountains in the villages and cities.

Thank you Stan for the water info. Makes sense.

Mike, thank you. Palermo is sounding like a place we do NOT want to drive! A few years back, when I drove out of Sevilla, Spain, I was going out of my mind. It was the first time I'd driven a stick in about 35 years so there was that, but not fun. I haven't driven in Europe since. I much enjoy my role as navigator. I think Palermo would put us over the edge. Pat (see above) has recommended a driver from Trapani to Palermo. He seems to be just what we need. This allows me to return our car three days earlier so the cost of the driver is about a wash with rental car prices and it will be more efficient. I'm guessing/hoping he will not get lost as we sometimes do.

I still am not making any headway on a car/bikes/scooters for Randazzo. So still hoping for some suggestions. I do come up with local rental car places, but my preference would be a company that people have some experience with.

I'll amend my previous post, in Palermo, The Museo Archeologico Regionale "Antonio Salinas", which is near the opera house, has an excellent collection of artifacts from Selinunte. If your itinerary doesn't include Selinunte, I'd make time to see the exhibit here. It was nearly empty late in the day, which made it even more enjoyable.