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Ragusa/Modica must-see/do sites

Staying 3 days in Ragusa, including a day trip to Modica. Staying in small apartment in Ragusa Alta, near to buses. Owner Marisa will meet me at stazione. Looking for must-see/do ideas in Ragusa and Modica that don't require a car. Not too crazy about museums--1 or 2 is OK. I'm a foodie-writer (I love markets, would like to prepare 1 or 2 dishes--pasta or pesce or both)and shopping.

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