Questions for those who DO love Naples (not those who DON'T; lol!)

The archeological museum was one whole day for us.

Castel Sant’Elmo and San Martino (funicular from Via Toledo).

The presepi street with its incredible supplies for making nativity scenes was lots of fun

Cappella Caraffa and other chapels in the Duomo.

Via Toledo street market.

Via Caracciolo and Via Partenope for walks by the sea.

Caravaggio’s “The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula” and “The Seven Works of Mercy.”

Museo Cappella Sansevero's marble sculpture of Christ under a sheet, plus other rather bizarre sculptures and things.

Galleria Umberto vintage shopping mall.

Castel dell’Ovo.

We did not visit the Capodimonte museum, but would have with more time.

The Ospedale delle Bambole on Via San Biagio dei Librai was closed but looked cool.

The street food was great --- I can't remember the name, but we especially liked a place selling fried pizza.

Obviously, we loved Naples, but we were there right before Christmas rather than in the summer --- I can imagine that it could feel less wonderful in the middle of the summer heat and crowds.

Nancy; thanks for your wonderful suggestions! Yes, it will likely be HOT! We are used to that; we can only travel in summer.

I was there in July as you plan to be. It was hot and the Archeological Museum is not air conditioned. For that reason, we were only there for two hours.

We did an underground tour because it was hot but it turned out to be fascinating. I would highly recommend. I think we found the details in Rick Steves' book on Naples and the Amalfi Coast.

We bought our daughter and husband a wonderful nativity set in "Christmas Alley" as a wedding present. It is really a fun area to explore.

We stayed in the pedestrianized area by the Castel dell' Ovo (egg castle) which we really enjoyed and would recommend. We had several good meals in that area, although I don't recall the names. We liked how calm it was and found that we enjoyed the craziness of Naples more with some break from it. There are some hotels with roof decks where you can get a drink and some food that you might enjoy. You can see the sea and the Castel dell' Ovo. When we were there, we saw fire works (all white) from it which was a treat.

Thank you Beth! We will definitely go to the museum 1st thing in the morning! I chose an apartment with a terrace and an outside shower (oddly) so that I can get wet and stay cool while enjoying the Naples views! Here's the link...it's between the waterfront and the historic center. Although, having the views you experienced was and is still tempting! I can't get over the outdoor shower and terrace though!

https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/dimora-augusteo.en-us.html?sid=a0763fcccda9dd347993517c046eda34&aid=1250365

I don't have any Naples recommendations, but popping in with a hearty recommendation for Herculaneum. I visited 11 years ago, after having been to Pompeii a couple of times in the 90s. IMHO Herculaneum was just as fascinating & fulfilling as Pompeii, and much less crowded.

Check out the Banksy Madonna painting. Just Google Naples "Banksy"

There is also a shrine to former Naples soccer star Diego Maradona in the downtown area, complete with a vial of his tears.

For exceptional (world class) pizza in an upscale restaurant, I recommend 50 Kalo, with an amazing menu of wonderful treats.

The terrace is really lovely! We stayed in a hotel. I was there first for a conference for a week and my husband joined me after. I did notice that those who stayed in the area where we were liked Naples. The rest did not seem to. I think it is important to have some peaceful place to recharge and that terrace fits the bill. Enjoy!

My colleagues were laughing at me because I insisted on sitting in the front of the bus transporting people to and from the conference site because I wanted to experience the traffic maneuvering as close to first hand as I could.

Another vote for the underground tour. I seem to remember there were a couple of places you could take it, but the link below is to the one we enjoyed and thought was very interesting. It is just off of Via dei Tribunali near Via San Gregorio Armeno.

https://www.napolisotterranea.org/

And for food we LOVED the restaurant Tandem on Via Sedile di Porto

https://tandemnapoli.it/tandem-sedile-di-porto/

I've spent two vacations where I was in Naples for a few days each, and I love it!
I did not feel unsafe at any time.
The only thing you need to beware of are fast scooters and cars in the tiny streets of the Spanish Quarter....look both ways twice before you walk across an intersection.

The people are friendly and helpful, and I thought the food was better there than in Tuscany and Umbria.
Both times we stayed in apartments just off Via Toledo, just a bit further up the hill from yours, and I would again.
Plenty shops, restaurants, and so much to look at.
Your apartment looks fantastic...an outdoor shower!

We took an evening street food tour last time, and that was great...all through the Spanish Quarter.
I think it was through Viator.
Be sue to also visit the Cloisters of Santa Chiara, with the lovely enamelled pillars.
It's near the end of the Spaccanapoli street.

I only spent a pair of long afternoons in Naples, and regret I had so little time there. I sense you have the right attitude to really enjoy what makes Naples special, and it’s that “street activity mania” that can overload folks. To me, wandering around may have been the best part. I’m jealous. But onto your sights:

I thought Herculaneum was awesome, and very different from Pompeii. I recommend both sites equally. Herculaneum is also open until sunset which in the summer will be quite late. Seeing it in the late afternoon/evening out of the sun would be a great move.

The Pompeii exhibits in the Archeological Museum are great of course, but do not skip past the Farnese marbles!

If you’re an art (paintings) lover, Museo Capidomonte is overlooked. It’s not easy to get to (taxi recommended.) It’s a big place, so be selective. There are some phenomenal canvases there, particularly by Parmigiano.

hey hey kerry
like you said people either love naples or they hate naples. my first trip to italy was years back, staying in rome for few days before our transatlantic cruise. was determined to ride the "fast" train. we decided on naples haha. it was crazy and fun. got off train at the busy station and taxi to a pizza house and shopping streets, it was "christmas alley" with so many shops, stalls, street food.
yes it was dirty and gritty, garbage all around but didn't bother us. that's what makes this city. lots of other good points, saw a woman dropping down an empty basket from her window to outdoor market below, owner filled it up with products and pullied it back up to her, loved seeing this unusual delivery service.
la sfogliatella mary galleria umberto I 66
known naples pastry
damichele.net via cesare sersale 1/7 naples
friend looked it up, suppose to be oldest pizza shop, small place ate outside and enjoyed it
walked down to a piazza near water, did people watching and enjoying the atmosphere. took a bus down the main hiway a few miles along coast and gorgeous homes/apts looking up the hills. coming back, saw many "police" in their tanks, standing out of the cover, holding uzis, rifles, guns, standing at attention in front of their vans and at street corners. it was a WOW moment and of course i took a picture of it all. guess it's a normal sighting, got off and taxi back to train station to rome, we laughed so much going back, what a crazy and enjoyable day. i would go back in a minute. i want to see for my and determine if i like it or not, not someone else's opinion.
withlocals.com/ naples
different tours and activities to chose from, an off the beaten track tour
eatwith.com/ italy, napoli
lunch, dinner in residents homes, food tours and cooking classes. click on event type
streaty.com
tasteatlas.com/ scaturchio
scaturchio pasticceria pastry shop. scroll down to bottom with more places to check out
piazza san domenico maggiore 19
cookly.me/ naples
limoncellodinapoli.it piazza san gaetano 72
visit the factory that makes lemoncello with tastings
until this trip years ago, never heard of lemoncello. tasted probably every bottle at a wine shop in rome, thank god apt around the corner of pantheon where we were. bought souvenir bottles at campo de fiori. now my friend makes this every christmas for gifts and i'm on the gift list. yeah
doeatbetterexperience.com/ naples food tour
street food tour in the vomero area.
napolike.com
under what to do: shopping, clicking streets and handicrafts
the different artisans of home made products and craftmenships with streets they are on.
hope this helps you, go with your great attitude to enjoy this city, lots to see and do, wear elastic waist pants!! LOL
aloha

Wow; fantastic responses from all of you! Thank you and feel free to keep your comments coming! I'm getting so excited to explore Naples!

hey hey kerry
you are so so welcome. my last trip to europe was october 2019 to paris-geneva-annecy-paris-USA. that was my 8th trip to europe with friends. that was a crazy time, annecy was fabulous on the lake for 6 days then back to paris for 8 days then back home.
it was fashionista week, past president cheraq passed, photographers/high political dignitaries from all over the world for memorial service, techno musical festival parade on main road at seine river, residents of france waiting in long lines to honor cheraq, more tourists than ants everywhere, bistros and cafes full, emergency vehicles, police at every street corner with their guns and rifles, limousines with high uppity ups, champs de elysees packed with "free entertainment".
i loved it, a sight to see and enjoy. some people had no patience. i have been to enough museums, churches, art establishments that i wanted to see the outside world. i'm from a small country town on big island of hawaii with 4,000 population so this was all new to me, was on a mission for "best" eclairs, souffles, baguettes, charcuterie platters with wine and prosecco, hole in the wall restaurants.
fabulous time, so just enjoy your italian naples city and what if offers.
aloha

The RS city walking tour is very good and will take you through the best parts of the center. It starts across the street from the archaeology museum. Allow time to visit the sights it passes. I was disappointed with the pizza in Naples (though da Michele is an experience and pretty good pizza, just not the greatest), but dear departed Zoe gave me a restaurant recommendation that was so good, I went back. Da Carmine on via Tribunale. Check the hours before you go! The food is authentic home cooking.

The hardest thing is learning to cross the street! Rome is child's play in comparison. My advice - cross in the middle of the street so you can see the cars and scooters coming. Corners can be treacherous. Until you get the feel of it, try to cross along with locals. And go at a steady pace so drivers can avoid you. It's a skill, but easily acquired.

I love a quote Harold used often: The only subtle thing about Naples is its charm.

Herculaneum is amazing. It is much more intact than Pompeii. You can see a wooden dining table in one apartment, outdoor food seller’s shop with the counters and holes for the pots still intact, the public restroom, and a lot more, so much more than Pompeii.

Not to disparage Herculaneum in the least but there are thermopolia (take-away food stands) at Pompeii as well as the remains of a public latrine (been there, seen those). Many houses had private privies, some of them on 2nd floors and connected to downspouts. Both cities also had sophisticated running water systems involving aqueducts, cisterns, reservoirs and lead pipes which are visible here and there. Anyway, while the volcanic event affected them differently in some ways, there are similarities in others; do both if at all possible!

Note that while Herculaneum has more shade than Pompeii, it's a 15-minute unprotected walk downhill from the Circumvesuviana.

Do not overlook the important Farnese Marbles at the Arch. Museum. Pizza restaurants will have lines for seating.

Thank you for all your continued comments; they are all so appreciated!

I just would like to add my voice as a Naples lover, too. You have already received the information I would have posted, the Underground, the alleys with all the small crafts, the Archaeological Museum and my all time favorite sculpture “Release from Deception” in the the Museo Capella Sansevero (“Sansevero Chapel Museum”) . I bet I stood in front of it for at least a half an hour, marveling at the intricacies and delicacies of the art. “The Veiled Christ” also there, is equally as beautiful. There are a few other noteworthy sculptures there, too. It’s not very big. I really, really enjoyed Naples and I bet you will, too.