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Questions about eastern Liguria & the Italian Riviera

We are about to spend the fall there, basing in both Santa (Margherita Ligure) then Lerici. If you have been there to the Italian Riviera, then Mrs Z and I would like to hear your impressions.
We seek input about each of those bases, plus any additional daytrip destinations that you enjoyed. We welcome tips of any sort.

Specifically: anyone been to the October religious fest in Bonassola? Is the Boccadese area of Genoa worth the effort? Ditto Recco? Does the beach in Sestri Levante have public areas or is it entirely lidos?
​​​​​​​I am done. the packing

Posted by
18146 posts

I’ve been to the eastern Liguria many times, however generally in spring or summer, as late as September but I don’t remember if I’ve ever went there in October.
All those locations are nice. Besides the Cinque Terre I have good memories of Moneglia, where I used to go often. Any place is fine and every town and village on the coast is easily accessible by train. The Lidi or Bagni (beach concessions, or concessioni balneari) are generally closed in October, so the beaches will be largely free. Even in high season a portion of the beach must be left free to bathers and that portion is determined by each Regional government. In Liguria 40% of the coast in every municipality must be “freely accessible” and not occupied by concessions. In any case, the first 5 meters from the water must be left free of umbrellas and chairs and are accessible by anybody.

Posted by
7024 posts

You’ll have a car some? Near Lerici, Tellaro is lovely and quite easy to get to without one, but the land around Montemarcello is waiting to be discovered. I barely scratched the surface. Sarzana was cute and might be nice for a lunch and wander.

Posted by
37 posts

I lived along that part of the 'Riviera di Levante' some years ago.

Boccadasse is nice enough, but not worth a special trip IMHO. You can always stop off there if you decide to go to Genoa for the day.

Recco is easy to get to from 'SML'. It's hardly worth a special trip on its own, but nearby Camogli is a must. Be absolutely sure to sample the local dishes: 'Focaccia col formaggio di Recco', and 'trofie al pesto'.

Both Portofino and Rappallo are just a few minutes' bus ride from Santa Margherita Ligure.

Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, Recco and Rapallo are all on the main train line from Genoa to Le Cinque Terre and beyond.

San Fruttuoso is definitely worth a visit. It can be reached by boat 'battello' from SML (via Portofino), and from Camogli. Be sure to check the timetables, which vary according to the season.

Posted by
2 posts

One experience I can highly recommend is a trip with the Alegria catamaran. We sailed from the La Spezia in the Gulf of Poets, with spectacular views of Portovenere, Palmaria and the Ligurian coast. The atmosphere on board was fantastic. Definitely something we would do again !
https://www.alegriacatamarano.it/en/tour/tour-serale (we choose one of the sunset tours)

Posted by
2680 posts

I've based in both, for short periods. Lerici was in 2017 for three nights. We went to Tellaro one day and really enjoyed that. I had hoped to visit Sarzana but didn't make it.

In 2023, I spent nine nights of September in Santa Margherita Ligure with my goal being to visit many of the other nearby towns. I went to Rapallo, Monterosso, Recco, Camogli, Portofino, Chiavari, Zoagli, Nervi, Boccadasse, and Moneglia. I had stayed previously in Camogli and loved it so wanted to return there. My favorite spot of this trip was Zoagli: so unique and beautiful. I think Boccadasse would be worth a visit later in the fall. It was so hot and crowded when I was there I didn't really enjoy it. Camogli still has my heart (we had stayed there previously). Chiavari seemed much less touristed and I enjoyed going there. I felt like Nervi was overrated. Do visit Bonassola even if not for the festival you mentioned. I went to Recco (I was nearby anyway) for the focaccia but... meh.

I've visited Sestri Levante but at a time when at least one of the beaches was covered with seaweed and not at all pleasant. I'm sure there are public areas there, however.

Happly planning!

Posted by
2191 posts

We stayed in Porto Venere for several days and visited around the Gulf of Poets area some and I have a coworker who lived in San Terenzo for several years. You don't mention whether you will have a car but all of these places will require a bus to reach from La Spezia. There is also an occasional ferry that runs between Porto Venere and Lerici from the CT ferry area. A taxi from La Spezia to PV is a posted but crazy fee of 40e (a few years ago) while the but is about 15 minutes from the city center.

My pictures of PV will make you want to book a trip there but ultimately I found it way too small for the CT ferry traffic that regularly landed there. When the ferry stopped and crowds of tours people spilled out into the little shorefront area it was simply too much. Away from the port frontage are some charming streets and restaurants but it was overwhelmed.

Lerici has a marina and is the more 'resorty' and upscale area on the southern coast. There are some great little shops and places to eat although all the seafront places seemed questionable for the price, but this is pretty standard in beach areas. San Terenzo maintains some of it's quiet ex-fishing village vibe and feels calm and small compared to the more popular towns and it is connected to Lerici by a 1.5k long walkable seafront promenade passing all the little coves and blue beaches. Lerici has a restored castle to explore that contained an art exhibit while we were there and is connected to the footpath only neighborhoods on that hillside.

Tellaro is reachable by bus from Lerici is kind of a CT town before the tourists, but keep in mind that also means fewer places to eat or shops/services geared toward tourists. I didn't get to Sarzana but I've heard good things - especially about shopping and eating in the old city center - and the old section looks charming. It is about 15 minutes by bus from Lerici over the hill.

We had limited exposure to La Spezia itself and it is something of an 'everyday Italian town' there is a largely pedestrian shopping zone that, while not fancy, I found somewhat charming. I'm not here to champion La Spezia but I think it might be worth a bit more time than people rushing to other places give it credit for and it is certainly more charming that modern built Italian towns I've visited.

I'm really interested in visiting some of the towns on the coast - especially Chiavari, Moneglia, and Sestri Levante. I heard one that more local say they felt Chiavari was the perfect Ligurian town. Coming on the train we met and English couple who had stayed in Sestri for a few days and were in the process of planning to come back for 2 months the following year.

AS I said I'd love to explore this area - especially with the time to hike between the various towns which is completely doable but always require more time than I have.

My $.02, enjoy,
=Tod