My wife and I are planning our 4th Italy trip (this coming May/June for 45 days), but our first to Puglia. We are going to Vieste, Trani, somewhere in Valle d’Itria, Polignano al Mare , Matera (I know, not in Puglia), and somewhere in Salento. We prefer smaller towns to big cities, but I've heard we can't miss Lecce. I went on Google Earth to Gallipoli, Galatina, Leuca, Lecce, and Otranto. Otranto and Lecce are my 1st and 2nd choice to base ourselves while we visit the others. Has anyone spent time in Salento? I hate to just do a day trip to Lecce and wish we had based there. But the same thought for Otranto.
thanks for any input,
Frank
Posted by
4363 posts
Lecce is the only place approaching city size/feel in the Salento, but it really does not feel like a city in the old town. With 45 days, even someone who does not like changing bases much could probably swing both.
In case you are still pondering, I just found this great resource about smaller places in the Salento:
https://www.salentodolcevita.com/blog/en/8-bellissimi-borghi-del-salento/
A major consideration in Puglia is that a lot closes down mid day. For that reason, I would want to be IN Lecce for ease, and I prefer to be somewhere at night with restaurants I can walk to.
Now that I have been to Lecce twice, I would probably choose somewhere like Galatina if I am lucky enough to return.
Posted by
Washington DC
27104 posts
There are many wonderful small places in Puglia, but I was glad to be staying in Lecce. I get antsy spending multiple nights in tiny places (Otranto's population is under 6000), and I don't like changing hotels frequently.
Posted by
Boise, ID, USA
2173 posts
We stayed in Lecce and did Otranto as a daytrip, which was plenty for me, as was a daytrip to Gallipoli. Plus staying in Lecce gives you many more daytrip options than being farther out in one of the smaller towns.
Posted by
Centennial, CO, US
2126 posts
I agree that Otranto might be too small for a base. We visited as a day trip in October, when it was pretty dead, but even in season it will not offer a lot of options for restaurants, etc.
We also did a day trip to Gallipoli and enjoyed it much more. It's a gorgeous little town with a busy fishing harbor. We wished we had stayed there.
Instead, we stayed in Lecce and were frankly disappointed in it. I know we're in the minority, but Lecce takes the Puglian "closing at 2 pm" thing very seriously. Everything closes. You can't even get a gelato. It's like a ghost town. Shops and offices begin reopening at 6 pm but restaurants (even sandwiches and pizza) are firmly locked until 8 pm. As long as you realize that, and are prepared with food in your room in case you get hungry, you may be fine. Lecce is full of beautiful baroque churches, but we burned out on them fairly quickly.
So I don't know what to recommend for the Salento. But for the Val d'Itria, I'd base myself in a masseria. There are lots of them, and it can be a wonderful break in your trip. We stayed at Masseria Montenapoleone near the seaside village of Torre Canne. All the trulli villages were just a short drive. There were several restaurants nearby; but one night we purchased some supplies and cooked in the communal kitchen which was stocked with olive oil, herbs, all kinds of essentials, plus some fresh produce from the masseria. It was wonderful. And it had a pool. And lots of clotheslines outside to dry your clothes, if you're a light packer like we were.
Posted by
lexington, il
4105 posts
Frank, take a look at Nardo, beautiful quiet beach town. A plus for the men out there is the Porche test track is located there.
Posted by
1 posts
We just returned from Puglia 2 days ago. Totally loved it, even more than Amalfi coast. Spent our time staying in two places: Lecce and Polignano al Mare. Would do the same again and just take day trips. Both places are quite reasonable and have gorgeous old towns and are well located and provide easy access to all the surrounding smaller towns which I would think are just too small for longer stays. If we had more time perhaps add a Masseria for a country feel. Good luck!