We are researching our first visit to Napoli.
Think of staying in the Quartiere Vomero.
Have you stayed there?
If yes, what were your impressions?
If yes, was it easy to get “down the hill” to the old part of Napoli?
Would you suggest another Quartiere?
I was hoping someone else would respond, because I have only walked around Vomero a bit, not stayed there. There's some very nice Art Nouveau architecture up there. If you zoom way in on Google Maps, you'll see that walking down the hill can be time-consuming because of the winding streets. I'd want my lodgings to be near one of the funiculars (but check on their frequency). I see bus stops marked, but the buses have to follow the curving streets.
Note in particular that there is evidently no simple, direct path eastward. The Certosa di San Marino is on quite a hill. I made the mistake of walking up there from the area around Via Toledo. It turned out to be one flight of steps after another, and in some areas there was a lot of broken glass on the steps. Falling could have meant a trip to the local equivalent of an emergency room.
Naples is extremely hilly. I don't normally use Google for walking routes; I just look at the map and head in the right direction. That is a risky technique in Naples, because streets that seem to intersect do not always do so. The cross street you plan to turn on may be twenty feet higher than the one you're on, which means trying to find a set of stairs somewhere, or a lift. I did a lot of doubling back as I ran into dead ends. Checking walking routes on Google Maps is a good idea.
We stayed in Vomero for two nights in May 2019. We drove into the city (always a scary adventure) and went directly to our rented apartment, which had a gated parking lot. Once out of the car and on foot, I thought it was a very nice place to walk around, lots of restaurants, shopping etc We took the funicular? to downtown/water front and spent the afternoon and evening exploring. Our only problem was that when we tried to take metro train back, it was closed before 11pm on a Saturday night. It seemed to take others around us by surprise too and there was a scramble for taxis. Our ride back to the apartment was ~30euro and a bit of a wild adventure, but we made it safely.
In 2022, we stayed 3 nights in a hotel in the center, just a block or 2 from the central train station in early June (I believe it was a holiday weekend). The location was very convenient for really getting to see the city and to the train station but it is a 'gritty area'. I never felt unsafe, we walked a lot in the day and evenings, although not too late at night. It's definitely more hustle and bustle than Vomero but so central you really get a feel for the city.
We stayed in Vomero for 17 nights from mid March through early April in 2023. Our apartment was high up in a Liberty style villa just under Castel Sant'Elmo. The apartment and property had spectacular views over the whole bay and out to Capri. Those views are available all over the Vomero area and particularly so at the Sant'Elmo monument. Otherwise the area is a quiet nineteenth century upscalish suburb, a sanctuary from the intensity of the City below. As such it lacks some of the gritty interest of the Centro and its plethora of sites, museums, churches and other cultural and touristic interests including the best restaurants. But it is well enough served by all the required amenities for a comfortable and particularly a longer term stay. Everything is available and suitable for an immersive local experience. And the major sites at Sant'Elmo and the Certosa di San Marino bring plenty of tourists up and a few discreet clubs bring young people up on the weekends. So the area itself is not without interests.
Access to the rest of the city is easy and even fun with all four funiculari, including thankfully the Chiaia now, all in operation. Easy 10 minute rides to various parts of the centro. The main Piazza Vanvitelli has a very handy L1 Metro Station and taxi stand and there are plenty of busses. And the Montesanto funicular descends next to a L2 Metro station and there are also connections there to Ferrovia and other municipal trains that cover the whole bay. We also enjoyed walks down the historic stairs with the distant views and the fascinating local residential enclaves. We saw some locals braving the ascents but we left that to them.
If you have only a couple of days, perhaps an area below might be more feasible but with more than that Vomero is a worthwhile choice.
These 3 replies have great!
Thank you for taking the time to write them