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Puglia Itinerary Ideas

I'll be travelling to Puglia end of June/beg of July with my husband and our 3 young kids and we had planned to base off the trip we originally planned for summer of 2020. We have a few more nights to play with so am looking for any ideas for other places to base and would love any sample itineraries from anyone who has been or plans to soon! I had been considering adding Alberobello/Locorotondo (but thinking this too close to Polignano to base here) and somewhere south of Otranto like Santa Maria di Leuca. Thanks for the input!

We had originally planned for 4 nights at each of the following and would have a car for day trips from each base:
Polignano a Mare or Monopoli - 4 nights
Near Otranto - Masseria Prosperi
Near Ostuni - Masseria Cervarolo

Posted by
691 posts

was there in oct 2021
i preferred monopoly over polignano
ostuni is great, i would not stay in alberobello or locorotondo, daytrip is enough
otranto is a good base for nearby beach towns

did you think about going to Matera?
it was the highlight of our trip

Posted by
4434 posts

Polignano/Monopoli and Ostuni are somewhat close together also, but I think are different enough with one being seaside and the other being a masseria stay. So, it just depends on what you wanted to do while in each place. I would make a list, look at drive times, then decide if you are positioned well.
On my two visits, I stayed in Bari, Matera, Lecce (those first three twice), Monopoli, Giovinazzo, and Cisternino. I used a car after Bari and did a rough loop, starting in Matera and ending in the town closest the airport.
Do you now have extra days you are looking to fill? That was unclear. Also, where do you fly in/out?

Posted by
1392 posts

I've posted versions of this list here before, but tried to tailor this one to traveling with kids (we took our grandchildren to Puglia one spring).

The search on this forum isn't the best --- instead try Googling on "Rick Steves Travel Forum Puglia" to see lots of recent posts.

Alberobello — Do see both the touristy side (just try to imagine it without all the shops!) and the other side. Rione Monti is crammed with shops selling trulli knick-knacks displayed out in the streets every few feet and really spoiling the look of the place. Walk through and try to imagine it all gone. Go to the Aia Piccola rione for a less commercialized experience and to the terraced public gardens across the main street for the best view of the Rione Monti. Eat somewhere else, like in nearby Noci. You will see trulli everywhere in this area while driving around, ones both un-used and fixed up.

Bari --- Quartiere delle Orecchiette. Also just explore the maze of the old town generally. Cathedrals, of course.

Ceglie Messapica — piazza was fun in the evening, several good places to eat.

Cisternino — cute little town.

Lecce — we stayed 5 nights in the old town but near a large parking lot, has maybe my favorite church exterior (and kids like the animals, mermaids, dragons, eagles, etc), many places to eat, Roman ruins in the central piazza, great gelato, a fun and lively town to stay in (maybe the best?), visit the transportation museum!

Matera in Basilicata —- Try to walk all over the sassi area —- there is nowhere like it. Sasso Barisano (being renovated, some shops and restaurants) and Sasso Caveoso (wilder, more like it used to be). We enjoyed a little museum full of stuff collected from the old cave-dwelling way of life. Great for kids.

Nardò — small town with great bread and focaccia. Piazza Mercato, Piazza Antonio Salandra

Ostuni — we stayed 6 nights in the old town, great places to eat, LOVE Ostuni. No cars in the oldest part of town, so nice for kids. Our apartment held the 6 of us nicely and I can look it up for you. Can be tricky to find a place to park.

Otranto —— maybe nicer and more interesting than Gallipoli if you have to choose one . Mosaic floor of its cathedral (wild & crazy people and animals and mythical creatures).

Polignano a Mare — a couple hours was enough for us, tiny medieval center on the edge of the limestone cliffs. Small pebble beach. (Crammed with people in summer and seemed rather tourist-focussed even in March, compared to other towns!).

Trani — we stayed here for 4 nights, harbor, cathedral, places to eat, fun passeggiata by the sea, with fishermen unloading their wares. Really interesting old town, including medieval Jewish section.

Two B&Bs we loved (we now rent apartments in towns or a trullo in the countryside)

Locorotondo ----- Masseria Aprile (one of the nicest places we’ve stayed at in Italy)

Matera ---- La Corte dei Pastori B&B (in Basilicata but so easy to visit from Puglia)

Pugliese restaurants we especially liked

Osteria Monacelle (favorite place on this trip, very very small) in Ostuni

Vicolo 45 in Ostuni (it's in a cave)

Osteria del Tempo Perso in Ostuni

Trattoria Fiori di Zucca in Lecce (outside the walls)

Pizzeria Doppio Zero in Cisternino (different ancient grains used in the dough)

L’Antica Locanda in Noci

Towns in Puglia do tend to close up for most of the afternoon, maybe noon to 4:00pm, even the churches. We like it that people prioritize family and eating meals at home over being convenient to tourists. We spent this time exploring the old town centers before and after lunch, and eating long restaurant lunches from 1:00pm to 3:00pm. Always order the house antipasti!

Posted by
55 posts

We’re headed to Puglia after RS Sicily tour. Fly into Bari, then public transportation. One night Polignano a Mare, 4 nights Lecce (Florence of the South), 3 nights Grottaglie (town known for its beautiful handmade pottery, 100’s of artisans), 5 nights Ostuni (day trips planned to other villages).
Puglia; food, wine, beauty, history, and often overlooked - therefore, less crowded.

Posted by
37 posts

Thanks, Martine, for the helpful feedback! And I have read good things about Matera so it sounds like we should consider adding it with the extra time, thanks so much!

Posted by
37 posts

Thanks valadelphia! Sounds like we should add Matera to our itinerary as a few have mentioned it now! And Lecce too! I haven't booked our flights in and out of the region yet, but likely will be Bari so we can get non-stops both ways. Still finalizing our plan, but I think we will have 17 nights in Puglia. Here is our complete trip plan:

Flying into Amsterdam - stay about 5 nights + visiting friends in Belgium for a couple nights
Fly to Bari - stay 17 nights in Puglia area
Fly to Barcelona - 5 nights - then back home

Posted by
37 posts

Thank you nancys8, this is incredibly helpful! I've pasted all your suggestions into my planning document which will come in super handy ;) - everything sounds so amazing + I'm sure our kids will love it as well! I'll look into those B&B recs as well + let you know if we need the apartment rec - I think we'd like to do a mix, so both options will be helpful!

Posted by
37 posts

Thanks grostmanburrill for your itinerary details, super helpful to see what others are planning! I think we will definitely add a stay in Lecce now as everyone seems to love it and perhaps stay in town in Ostuni as well instead of a masseria nearby. Hope you enjoy your time in Sicily and Puglia!

Posted by
15090 posts

Staying in Lecce is a great idea. It's an interesting city but central to many spots in southern Puglia.

I suggest visits to both Otranto and Gallipoli. I like both for different reasons.

BTW, the clearest water I have ever seen in my life was in Gallipoli.

Posted by
29 posts

Good info from all! I’ll be in Puglia for 2weeks end of September-early October. Plan to home base in Monopoli and Lecce with day trips from there using public transportation. Traveling solo so I would prefer hotels but can’t find many. Can anyone help me to feel more secure and not so isolated in B&Bs? That seems to be mostly what is available in the center of the cities. Thanks!

Posted by
55 posts

Monopoli. Great visit for us. We stayed at Allo Zefiro. Maybe 6 rooms. Great breakfast. Very kind host Elisa. Plus beautiful terrace. Highly recommend.

Posted by
55 posts

Lecce.
Dimora San Leucio. 1500’s building. Maybe 5 rooms. Flavio and Carla are wonderful hosts.
Close to everything.
We traveled two weeks around Puglia. Used public transportation. My favorite was Grottaglie.
A creative ceramics town. Absolutely my favorite.
We used the Trenìt app for train travel.

Posted by
29 posts

Thanks for those tips, grostmanburrill... My reservations now are at Palazzo Indelli near the old port where the fishing boats come in -- I hope that's a good and safe location to use as a home base for 3-4 nights. Would it be better to stay closer to the Porta Vecchia beach? I can't really tell on the maps where the middle of the downtown areas are. I'll go from there to Lecce -- staying at Agape Rooms. I'm trying to stay in the old parts of the cities so I can walk everywhere. Glad to hear you liked Grottaglie -- I do pottery, so that was on my radar. Is that a place to stay for a few days? Glad to hear that you used public transportation too. In Thanks again for the info --- more?

Posted by
55 posts

@jho1313. Monopoli is very walkable. Your stay is close to Cala Porta Vecchia. Here’s a tip, if you like finding beach glass. That beach is full of beach glass! I enjoy, at home, viewing my Italian beach glass.
A great place for lunch is Tamborr.
Grottaglie - we spent three nights because of the many pottery studios. Our apartment host also took us on a hike in grotto outside town. Most amazing experience was Casa Vestita. Look it up, it’s quite the story - discovering medieval church when digging for garage foundation. The owner/artist gives tours. He created a museum.
A lot of ceramics shops/galleries have similar pieces, but there are some galleries with quite unique creations.