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Puglia in December

Our family of four, including two teens 13 and 16, will be traveling to Puglia by car from Naples in mid-December. We will have four nights, and want to see the trulli, tour a cave, visit Lecce, and stop into Matera, among other things. We have been debating our options and are seeking advice. Should we:

  • Use Alberobello as a base camp for four nights and do day trips from there?
  • Split the nights between Alberobello and Matera (3 and 1 or 2 and 2?)
  • Do some other combination? Stay somewhere else?

We are intrigued by staying in an unusual accommodation, like the trulli or the sassi in Matera. Most information I've read only discusses Puglia in the warm months, and because it will be December, we wonder what might be closed for the season (I notice that none of the masseria are open this time of year) or what additional concerns we should pay attention to (like heat in the lodging). We need to return our rental car to Naples before heading by train to Rome, so that factors in to how we plan things out as well.

Thanks for your help!

Posted by
3812 posts

Can't you return the car in Salerno and take there the train to Rome? Driving up to Naples seems a waste of time and calmness.

Seaside villages like Polignano will be very quiet, but not deserted. Cities like Lecce and Bari are open all year.

The Trulli area in Alberobello isn't that interesting after a couple of days. Once you have seen 5 cone-shaped houses made of stone...

I guess that some masserias are still farms and farms are not the most entertaining places where to stay during the winter. What would you do there?

Fake Masserias, i.e. luxury hotels in the countryside, probably take their holydays around Xmas since they work in Summer and they must be ready for the beginning of the new Season before Easter.

Posted by
1394 posts

We prefer to go to Puglia in November and December --- check out where we stayed once outside of Locorotondo in a trullo: https://www.masseriaaprile.it/en/home/

One March, we also stayed in this rented trullo outside of Cisternino: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/14569303?source_impression_id=p3_1625002238_AYtOdpzTmhrLhiA7 From either of these places, you could easily do a day trip to Lecce. And to lots of other towns that are nearer.

Highly recommend Lecce as a town, but our B&B was nothing special.

Alberobello, in our opinion, is not interesting after two HOURS, and the many shops on the commercial side are so overflowing into the streets with tourist trinkets that it kind of spoils the look of the trulli. If you have a car, just driving around the area you will see plenty of both abandoned and fixed-up trulli.

Puglia is tied with Liguria as my favorite region for food in Italy.

We stayed in this cave B&B in Matera for two or three nights (I forget which) and wished for one more night, but it is true that you can see the whole place pretty well in less than a day: https://lacortedeipastori.com/ So, you could arrive in the morning, check in, explore the sassi, spend one night, and then see some more the next morning, if you want to, before moving on to Puglia.

Can you return your rental car to Bari or Foggia and take the train to Rome from there?

Posted by
15131 posts

The first thing I thought of when I saw your headline was...I wonder what will be open. It is definitley off season in December.

I would not base in Alberobello. I've stayed there for a night and that was plenty. My suggestion is:

Day 1-Naples to Matera. It's only 3-3.5 hours depending on the route you take. Tour Matera. Sleep in Matera. Many hotels have been built into the caves. You just have to see what is open

Day 2-Drive to Alberobello (a little over an hour.) Tour the Truli. A few hours is more than enough time. Drive to Lecce (under 90 minutes). Sleep in Lecce

Day 3 & 4: Tour Lecce, perhaps day trips to Otranto or Gallipoli.

Day 5--drive back to Naples. You could stop in Polignano al Mare for a couple of hours detour to see the town.

You really have to see what is open in December.

Posted by
3812 posts

Can you return your rental car to Bari or Foggia and take the train to Rome from there?

The train from Bari to Rome takes ages. I keep on thinking that returning the car in Salerno is the only option if one wants to save time and nerves. There are many direct trains from Salerno to Rome.

Posted by
6 posts

These are all intriguing ideas, and just what I wanted: to challenge my thinking about where to go and how to get there.

About the Trulli Valley: We were thinking about using this area as our base camp because it looks to be fairly centrally located to other intriguing places in Puglia, not necessarily because the towns are particularly interesting for long visits. That said, I see the attraction of Lecce as a base of operations, especially in winter, and it may be advantageous to stay in a more vibrant city and explore the full heel of the boot.

About Naples vs. Salerno for 2 nights: We've had the debate about whether to stay in Naples or Salerno. Ultimately, we decided on Naples, because we will be so tired by our overseas flight, and because we could see both Pompeii or Herculaneum and the archaeological museum and other sights easily from the city. Plus, its Naples! We only have two nights, and despite what Rick Steves thinks about Naples, it is one of those great cities of the world. Salerno just seems like a touristy place to sleep. Perhaps I'm wrong?

About the rental car: This has been the topic of much discussion in our house. If we are staying in Naples, does it really make sense to take an hour plus train ride to Salerno to get the rental car? Would we actually save time? My husband is a very confident driver, and has driven in central Athens and London, as well as in several other big cities and countries. And I am a good navigator. But I do see how Salerno to Matera or Lecce is a nice straight shot through potential interesting countryside, and the return would certainly be easier. We definitely want to take the bullet train to Rome, and Bari/Foggia looks to be very slow.

About winter in Puglia: Is it worth it to visit in the winter, especially with kids who are less interested in wandering towns and eating great food and more interested in visiting ruins and cities that they've heard of? Should we simply spend more time in Naples/Salerno, check out Pompeii, Herculaneum and Paestum, and then spend a night or two in Matera?

Your responses are so helpful! Thank you!

Posted by
3812 posts

I am afraid I wasn't that clear: stay in Napoli a couple of days, pick the car in Naples, drive out of Naples if you want, but return the car in Salerno. Traffic is chaotic in Naples, you could enter a ZTL by mistake while looking for that specific address where to return the rental car.

I think your kids may like Castel Del Monte more than Lecce's baroque facades, but I am sure none of you will prefer spending your evenings in Alberobello rather than in Lecce, or Monopoli or Polignano. Even in winter, staying in a lively place where you can walk around after dinner is better than driving back (sober) to Hobbitville.

Posted by
152 posts

I too am considering an itinerary similar to yours.. except ours will take place in Sept or Oct...
After much research, the best solution I came up with is spend 2-3 nights in Naples (day trip to Pompeii etc..), then onto AC... Spend 3-4 nights in Sorrento or Salerno (not decided yet which town is best). figure if I spend time in Sorrento, I can take a Ferry to Salerno and Rent a car in Salerno.. head to Matera.. spend 2 days in MAtera and then onto Puglia for 5 nights..

Matera has some crazy ZTL zones, so I am not a big fan of driving to Matera... but I just didn't see any other choice.. If I get a ticket, I'll just consider that part sunk cost of vacationiing in Italy...
After Puglia, we will be dropping off the car in Bari airport.. and fly to Rome... The local flights are cheaper than trains.. $30/pp apprx...

Posted by
1707 posts

Gene, Matera's not bad to drive in. Much of the area around the Sassi is relatively modern. We found free street parking near the Castle Tramontano on Via Gramsci on our first go round. A trick for your smartphone app: search Google Maps for 'matera italy parking' and all the pay and public parking facilities will be shown. Pick one to aim for and either park there if it looks good or use it as a starting point for a better spot.

Posted by
152 posts

Thanks for the info,Mike...
I looked at the map of Matera with ZTL drawn in.. see link..
https://www.accessibilitacentristorici.it/ztl/Basilicata_en/matera/mappa

There are some pay parking lots just outside the ZTL..
If I park there, and my hotel is the other end of the map, can I walk to the other side?? or is there a shuttle bus??
Can I leave my car in the parking lot for 2-3 days or so?? Any idea of cost associated with that??

thanks Mike..