Puglia in 6 nights

How are you getting around?

We will have a car.
I missed a night so we will be staying 2 nights in Alberabello with day trips to Martina Franca and Polignano a Mare.

We have just finished 10 days in Puglia and based on our experience I would suggest a slight modification. It is worth a visit to Alberobello to see the trulli but I would definitely not stay there for 2 nights (or even 1). Stop in Taranto on your way to Lecce. From Lecce visit Brindisi (although I would recommend Ostuni instead or in addition). Continue on to Polignano a Mare and finally return to Bari.
Night 1 - Arrive in Bari Stay overnight
Night 2-3 - Stay in Matera (visit Alberobello on your way to Matera).
Nights 4-5 - Stay in Lecce ( Stop in Taranto on the way. Visit Ostuni or Brindisi from Lecce.)
Night 6 - Stay in Polignano a Mare
Six days is short but you will at least get the flavor of the place.

I am surprised. I thought it would be great to stay in a Trulli. I wonder if we do one night there and one night in Polignaro. Thank you.

It IS great to stay in a trullo, but they are everywhere in this area --- you can rent one yourself or stay in one at a B&B (like Masseria Aprile outside of Locorotondo where we loved staying). The issue with Alberobello is that most of the trulli on one side of the road are now souvenir shops displaying their trinkets out on the "streets" and it's pretty heavily touristed during the day. Big parking lot right in front, tour buses, tourist eateries, etc. We have visited Alberobello in both March and November --- I can only imagine what it's like during tourist season.

Maybe someone who has actually spent the night in Alberobello can tell you if it's still worth it in order to wander the town in the early morning and late evening. I can believe that it is, but I just wanted you to know there are other ways to stay in a trullo.

Just a little more to confuse you. I rented a trulli in Cisternino (LaFogliarella) for 1 week and was able to do day trips to the entire area. I personally am not a fan of fewer than 3 nights in any one accommodation. You will be wasting time checking in and out. I would fly into Bari and pick up the car and drive to 1 or 2 locations and day trip . Alberabello can be toured in a few hours. Lecce is beautiful but almost everything was closed when we went on a Sunday. Just a FYI.

Enjoy

Lorie

Oh thank you both. This is great information. I am going to look into your suggestions. I did not know there were Trulli everywhere and I should have guessed Alberabello would be very touristy. I will keep you posted and ask for more advice!

I wouldn’t stay two nights in Matera, rather give that night to more time in Puglia.

I would suggest 1 night Bari, 2 nights Matera, and 3 nights elsewhere. If you want to stay in a Trullo, either Cisternino or Locorotando would be well located for day trips. I’ve also read of a nice one around Ostuni (another great base).

We stayed in a masseria (it’s similar to an agriturismo) near Torre Canne, called Masseria Montenapoleone. Loved it. It was a working farm and had a pool to relax in after day trips. There are lots of masserias in this area of Puglia.

Whatever you do, do not day trip into Lecce. Everything there closes starting around 1 pm. Shops & offices reopen around 6. Restaurants (including pizza and gelato) do not reopen until 8 pm. Plus driving in and out of Lecce can be stressful. There is plenty to see in the Val d’Itria without driving all the way to Lecce.

We actually would like to NOT stay in Bari overnight because why drive into the city just to leave early for Matera. Does anyone have any ideas where we can stay right outside the airport on the way to Matera?

We will go to Lecce - and thank you for that advice. It's very helpful. We will go out during the day to Gallipoli and Ostuni for day trips when things are closed.

So glad you guys warned us about Alberabello.

We just booked a great looking place in Modugno which is close to the Bari airport. It's called Pietrabianca Suite.

The hotel Parco dei Principi is literally walking distance from the Bari airport --- I know because we walked it.

We've never been to the seaside town Giovinazzo just northwest of Bari, but it's a 15 minutes drive from the airport and is very much on our radar as a place to stay next time we go to Puglia. I don't know how jet-lagged and/or exhausted you'll be, or how confident you are about driving in Italy, but if you know you'll be fine, that's an option.

Alberobello is actually cool to go see, despite what I and others said above. Across the road from the section popular with tourists is a nice viewpoint from which all the knick-knack shops blend into the scenery and the town looks amazing, and there are plenty of non-commercial-looking trulli over on that side and it's fun to walk there.

Do stay in a cave in Matera and inside the city walls in Lecce.

Hi Nancy,
Thanks so much. We are booked in Modugno which is 15 minutes from the airport. It's on the way to Matera.

When we stay in Locaratando we can also go visit Alberabello so that will be great and it's also so close to Martina Franca. I used to sell handbags from Italy and one of my companies is there and I have always wanted to go.

We will stay in Lecce and as I said, will do either Gallipoli or Otranto and Ostuni from there.

If there is anything else that stands out please let me know. I wish we had more time but this will be a good beginning!

Sounds like a great trip. Good that you are keeping Martina Franca in the mix - it’s a lovely town, especially at night.

Oh that's great to know. thank you.

I would recommend Gallipoli for a day trip from Lecce. It’s a really pretty little town — we had fish fresh off the boat in a restaurant at the harbor there. In fact we wished we had stayed there instead of Lecce.

Otranto will be fairly deserted in October. Not much to see.

Here's some relatively recent restaurant recommendations (from our March 2018 trip). Even in October, you will probably need reservations.

Osteria Monacelle (#1 favorite place on 2018 trip) in Ostuni (it's a tiny place, literally a hole in the wall)
Vicolo 45 in Ostuni (it's in a cave and more upscale)
Osteria del Tempo Perso in Ostuni (maybe a bit more upscale than Vicolo 45, but still well within the kind of places we like best)

Trattoria Fiori di Zucca in Lecce (just outside the walls) it has odd food like wild poppy greens

L’Antica Locanda in Noci (interesting vegetables like wild grape hyacinth bulbs) (where we've eaten twice after visiting nearby Alberobello)

I hope these restaurants still exist!

Oh this is awesome, Nancy. Thank you!

As you walk around Lecce you will probably be overwhelmed with the many restaurants to choose from. For us it came down to where we were staying. Our apartment was near the Porta Napoli and Osteria da Angiulino was recommended by our host. Great food with very reasonable prices. Reservations are strongly recommended. The first time we stopped during lunch and made plans for that evening.

It's so great to find that place. It adds to the trip so much!

We will be there September 15-23. So excited! Our plans are booked, but it is fun to read all these posts. Folks are so helpful. Hope you have a great trip!

Everyone has really given great advice! Let us know how your trip goes!

So we have decided that we will not stay in Bari when we land late. We are staying in a great apartment in Modugno and will get to Matera early the next morning.

2 nights in Matera and staying in a cave!
2 nights in Lecce, stopping in Taranto along the way with day trips to, at least Gallipoli and maybe Ostuni
2 nights in Locarotondo with day trips to Monopoli, and Martina Franca and maybe Ostuni then and Alberabello.

Sound ok?

Thank you all!

Ciao..just spent 6 nights in Puglia..I stayed in Lecce all 6 nights..I loved it..I day tripped to Ostuni..Otranto..Alberobello..Locorotando..Martina Franca..Gallipoli..and on the way a couple of seaside towns for lunch..and in between an olive oil masseria and a lunch and cheese making farm. I was the only person at the olive oil and cheese making demo. 2nd week of June..not too crowded..I liked not changing hotels..altho I would have been fine w that. I loved loved Lecce..wandering around..very easy beautiful town. I swam at the Lido in Otranto and Gallipoli. This all might seem like alot of driving on a couple days but it worked..I was back to Lecce usually by 5..most of the small towns I would not have chosen to spend the night..but I def see the charm of after hours wandering. The food was great everywhere..there are many ways to see Puglia and for personal reasons I chose not to have a car..I was solo with driver. With a companion I would have a car. I think all the advice and experiences here re Puglia are good..I see the the value in each now that I have been there..and I really believe you will be happy with day tripping or moving around for several nights. Puglia is charming..slow pace..lovely helpful people and history that might have escaped some of us. Enjoy...ps..all roads are excellent.