Puglia fine tuning

We enjoyed visiting the two cities on the inside of the boot, Taranto and Gallipoli. Much easier for those with a rental car, as the trains are rustic and slow.

Otranto (from Lecce)
Gallipoli (from Lecce)
Polignano (from Monopoli)
Castellana Grottoes (from Monopoli)
Alberobello and Locorotondo maybe, if you have time, Martina Franca and Cisternino (from Monopoli or from Ostuni)

As you plan your time keep in mind that in Puglia most shops/churches/museums close about 1pm until around 5pm and restaurants close by 2pm for the riposo. Tourism mainly happens before lunch or in the evenings and the afternoon is spent out of the sun or at the beach.

Lecce has The Awaiting Table cooking school. I have not taken one of their classes but have read good things about them.

I don't know of any market days in those towns..there are some, but much of the goods are underwear, socks and cheap household equipment, you are better off in shops--are you asking about buying food to bring home?

With a car there are some great returns you could visit....no need for the car in Matera, of course...

Are you keen on finding great restaurants?

I have read that food markets and antique markets are held in many of the small towns on different days, and that it's a fun thing to see to get a taste of the local life. This is what I was asking about.

Any restaurant recommendations in any Puglia towns would be very much appreciated! It's always good to have a list of places that others have vouched for.

I kind of hate to give restaurant recommendations from years ago (and these are from 2018), but on the other hand, whenever we've gone back to a restaurant in Italy years later, it's always been as good as we remembered.

Osteria Monacelle (favorite place in town) in Ostuni

Vicolo 45 in Ostuni (it's in a cave)

Osteria del Tempo Perso in Ostuni

Trattoria Fiori di Zucca in Lecce (outside the walls)

Pizzeria Doppio Zero in Cisternino (different ancient grains used in the dough)

L’Antica Locanda in Noci (interesting vegetables like wild grape hyacinth bulbs in spring)

ANTICA LOCANDA in Noci
MASSERIA BARBARA near Minervino
ANTICHI SAPORI in Montegrosso, near Andria
CIBUS in Ceglie Messapica
IL PURITATE in Gallipoli
FARMACIA DEI SANI in Ruffano
LOCANDA DI MARTUME in Fasano

I could go on and on; here are comments about our two meals at Cibus last fall:

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/ceglie-messapica-three-nights-outside-an-untouched-jewel-of-a-town/45394

If you will be near Fasano I can give you a lot of info on where to eat in that town and in Savelletri....we returned last week.

Here are photos of ANTICA LOCANDA, MARTUME, and some other, from last month:

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/puglia-2026-fasano-savelletri-valle-ditria-towns/47923

@ Steve

Alberobello has a market on Thursday morning. Wandered around early May 2024. Rented a trulli for a week in the countryside toward Martina Franca. There was a mixture of local and imported fruit and vegetables in season. Mid spring so I suspect that tomatoes and others requiring heat to mature probably came from South Africa and west African countries.

Signs out to alert that the town was closed to cars. We parked in an olive grove where a local farmer made some extra monies, with a sign out. About €4 and 500 metres from town boundary.

Combined an attraction and food to consume at the trulli etc.

Regards

Ron

Hi Steve, I took the Awaiting Tables Fish & Market 1-day class in Lecce in 2024. Salvestro runs a cooking class that focuses on the Salento philosophy of food.

I rented an ebike in Alberobello from Allways. Very nice owner, and I had a fantastic time riding out in the small stonewall lanes between there & Locorotondo. Yes, you could ride some of them with your car, but there’s an extra layer of exciting discovery on a bike!

I did an olive oil tasting at a farm last year outside Monopoli. There’s probably larger, better ones, so I won’t name this one,

For Polignano a Mare you will want to take one of the boat rides that go into several caves, plus hear the “Volare” song - LOL!

I’ve been to the Puglia region three years in a row and won’t be going next year, so I can share my favorite restaurant. It’s very small - 6 tables for 2, 1 table for 4 in a tiny cave-like intimate space. Amazing vegan & fish creative dishes! I have eaten there three years in a row and always leave with a happy smile on my face! Mint Fresca at Polignano a Mare. Reserve several weeks ahead by WhatsApp.

I was usually “go, go, go” on past trips in Europe, but the Puglia region really taught me to slow down, savor the location, the feeling from just being there. I bring a sketch book now when I’m there, take time to wander & discover with no agenda, etc. Give yourself some time to try it. I’ve always loved traveling in Italy, but Puglia intensified those feelings to a much greater degree.

Glad to see these posts and comments. I've added to my notebook for our all-September visit to Puglia. Like one poster noted, we, too, are adapting the go-slow approach to travel and will linger in five different bases on this trip - Bari, Trani, Lecce, Ostuni and Barletto - with day trips when the mood hits. We'll need the break. We'll have eight-year-old grandson here in Washington, DC, with us for two weeks and then two weeks with him and family in Lithuania before heading to Italy. If you make it to Puglia before us, save us some wine.