I thought I'd post my answers in the Thread for others to read.
First, I have to say this was an AMAZING trip to Italy. My fourth time, but first time in Puglia. LOVED IT!
1) what time of year did you go? How were the temps?
We were specifically in the Puglia region from September 23 - October 10th. The temps were perfect!! Upper 70's & lower 80's. We had a tiny bit of rain on one day only.
2) best places you visited?
MATERA!! Technically Basilicata area I believe. Lots of walking uphill, but this town has it all. Breathtaking views, the most ancient buildings and in the newer town, shopping and strolling with the best of big towns. The history of this place fascinates me. I definitely want to get back here.
Alberobello - yes, very commercial......but, because we stayed here for 4 nights and used it as our base, we really got to love the vibe at night. Again, you can walk up into the newer part of town and it's very different from the heart of the Trulli area. We stayed in a Trullo and I would definitely do this again! Just because it's unique. There are other towns to stay in - Polignano a Mare was beautiful and would be a good choice as well. I thought Martina Franca was the dingiest little town. Sorry....but every place we went was bursting with flowers - not one SINGLE flower in the whole town! Boring! We had a car and found Alberobello to be very convenient as a base.
Our Itinerary:
1 - Flew into Bari - got our car and drove to Alberobello
Alberobello 4 nights - during this time, drove to: Polignano a Mare; Locorotundo; Martina Franca
2 - Drove to Lecce - on the way to Lecce we stopped in Ostuni - stayed in Lecce for 3 nights and visited: Roca Vecchia and the Cave of Poets - breathtaking!! Must see. We also visited Otranto after Roca Vecchia.
3 - Drove to Matera - stayed 3 nights. Bus to Parco Murgia with amazing views of Matera
4 - Drove to Paestum - again, so glad we did this! Just stayed for one night.
5 - Drove to Salerno - dropped our car - stayed 3 nights. Used this as a base to go to Amalfi Town (too touristy) and Ravello - great views. (we had stayed in Sorrento on a previous trip and explored the Amalfi Coast ie Positano, Capri and Pompeii, etc.) Not too much to do in Salerno, but a good place to get rid of a car and get a direct train to Rome (bypass Naples)
6 - Train to Rome - 3 nights - we love Rome and this was just our relaxing 4th time to revisit sites and restaurants. Had a fabulous 5 hours of roaming the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill - I think there's much more open than in 2012 when we went there. So, really a good addition this time.
Definitely need a car!!!
Driving was pretty easy. Be sure to have a GPS. Parking is always tricky, just go slow and don't freak out! LOL! Follow signs and you'll be good.
In hindsight, probably one less night in Salerno - just because we had visited the area previously for a week. Maybe 2 nights in Polignano a Mare. (one less in Alberobello & one less in Salerno to make it work) But, it was so close to Alberobello that it's not like it was really necessary.
So, all in all, the timing was really good for us. We like to relax and unpack. I like being in a place 3-4 nights so that we can re-visit restaurants/bars that we liked, so that we actually remember where things are, etc. I don't like to rush through and "see" a bunch of things, but not really "feel" them.
We are not beach people.....depending on what time of year you go, this is a great area for beaches! So much more accessible IMO than the Amalfi Coast and I think even prettier. We like sightseeing, ruins, sitting in Piazzas with drinks, shopping and meeting people and chatting.
I hope that helps! There's a LOT of information online in various blogs, etc. about this area. I just started reading and making lists of what I wanted to see.