We spent a week in Tuscany with Castello di Verrazzano as our home base. It's just outside of Greve, ~20 km south of Florence. We were there two weeks before Christmas, 2015.
Pros:
- Home base. From Verrazzano, most of central Tuscany was within and hour's drive. Also Greve is on a bus route. We parked in the free public lot and caught an early bus to Florence, arriving at 8:00am and catching a 7:30 PM bus back home. We unpacked once and didn't waste time moving from one location to another.
- Wonderful staff. Marco and Isabella became friends. Because of the time of year, we were the only guests for most of our stay, therefore they doted on us. Breakfast became an impromptu language class, with Marco teaching us Italian and us helping him polish up his English. I feel that even if they were busier, the caring exhibited by them would have been the same.
- Food and wine. Since it was a winery, we enjoyed great wine. We decided to make Monday a "down day", exploring the agriturismo in the morning, then taking a winery tour followed by a food and wine tasting later in the morning. The tour of the winery was fascinating. The highlight, though, was the food and wine tasting. It started with Prosecco and an appetizer, then we sampled in order their Chianti Classico, Chianti Reserva and their Super Tuscan. The accompanying dishes were fantastic. We also sampled their amazing (and expensive) Balsamic vinegar, aged 12 years. Desert was biscotti and Vin Santo, a wonderful desert wine. We sat down at 12:30 and finished at 3:30, a true relaxing Italian meal. The good news is we didn't have to drive after tasting all that wine. We also ate dinner there one night, joining a Christmas party of tour bus drivers, making new friends and having a fun filled evening with exuberant Italians.
- Price. Our stay was quite reasonable, less than $100 per night, including breakfast. Peak season rates are higher.
Cons:
- A Car is practically a must. As mentioned, most agriturismos are off the public transportation path. Of course, I think to have a true Tuscany experience a car is required whether you stay at an agriturismo or in a town.
- Convenience/Lifestyle. If you are a party person and enjoy night life, you may feel a bit isolated. Since this trip, we spent a week in an apartment in Loches, France. We were a 3 minute walk from the heart of town. It was great to be able to walk to town and buy pastries for breakfast and at night walk to one of the nice restaurants in town. A couple of days we just explored the town, not using the car to get anywhere. I'd love to go back to Italy and spend a week or so in Siena or Lucca or even Florence as home base.
- Minimum Stay. Many, if not most agriturismos have a minimum stay requirement, especially in peak season. It is often Sunday-Saturday. This is something to consider based on your plans.
As you can surmise, we had a wonderful time. We have done the hopping around type of travel in the past and feel fortunate to have had the experience. We have seen many of the major tourist spots in Italy, France, Germany, England and Scotland. Now that we are older, we seek a different kind of experience, one at a slower pace, with more relaxation and connection to the people where we visit. We are working on embracing "Dolce far Niente", the Sweetness of Doing Nothing. If this is your travel philosophy as well, staying at an agriturismo will be heaven.