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Positano - here or there?

Hello everyone,
This is my first post, so please bear with me! I can't find a "search" function on this site, so I'm sorry if this is redundant.

Will be visiting Italy for my first time this fall and am very excited. Planning 3 days in Positano (I know it's probably not everyone's favorite place to stay, but has long been a fantasy of mine :)

Looking at two places and wondering if anyone's stayed at either. One is the Albergo California, and the other is Casa Albertina. Looking at "superior" (ocean view) rooms. Main interests: views and a nice area to sit outside and relax. I was also looking at a place called Villa Rosa, but they don't have any availability during our time frame.

Also, this may sound petty, but does anyone have a preference between places facing south vs. those facing north? Just curious if the view is different or pretty much the same.

Appreciate any thoughts from my fellow travelers!

Marlene

Posted by
2622 posts

I know - there's a lot of talk about staying in Sorrento on this site but I too wanted to stay in Positano and so I did! I loved it there. We stayed at the Hotel Eden Roc so I can't comment on your hotels but I will say that we enjoyed our balcony so so much. We looked out to the water and over the village itself...not sure if that's south or north. But it was beautiful to sit outside and see the light come up over the buildings and then to see evening over the same view.

Posted by
353 posts

Hi Marlene,

Positano is my favorite town on the Amalfi coast. I stayed at Albergo California 2 years ago and loved it. I can't remember if I had a North or South faciing room, but the view was beautiful. I've also stayed in Amalfi town as well as Sorrento and like them also. It all depends on what you are interested in. For doing day trips to Pompeii, Naples and Mt. Vesuvius, Sorrento is my preferred town, but if you want a beautiful spot to enjoy the sheer beauty of the Amalfi coast, Positano can't be beat!

Posted by
11294 posts

How to search on this site:

1) If you're on a horizontal (landscape) screen like a desktop or laptop, on the top near the center is a light grey magnifying glass with the word "Search" in very light blue. The light colors make it very hard to see, but it is there and does work.

2) If you're on a tablet or phone, or you're using a vertical (portrait) format window, there will be a bunch of horizontal bars at the top left. Click those, and the top option above "Logout" and "About Rick" is the Search window. Again, not easy to find.

3) My favorite way to search is to go to Google and put in my terms (for instance, "Positano hotel" without the quotation marks). This of course gives an avalanche of responses - which I ignore completely. Then I click the gear icon on the upper right, and select "Advanced Search." Under "site or domain" I put in "community.ricksteves.com" for the Forums or "ricksteves.com" for the whole Rick Steves site (again, without the quotation marks).

Posted by
9420 posts

Rich said it very well, Sorrento is best (and beautiful and charming) if you want to go to all the wonderful places nearby. Positano is wonderful if you want to do little or nothing. That's the difference and why Sorrento is recommended so often.

Posted by
1829 posts

I stayed in both Sorrento and Positano and definitely prefer Positano
Also stayed at the Eden Roc and all of the rooms have balconies with amazing views.
Have not heard North vs. South before so guessing north is to the direction of Sorrento and south to the direction of Amalfi?
I am not sure if my description better describes east and west but assuming the coast road travels north to south.
If so prefer the view looking north, but mainly want to make sure I would see the church's dome in the same direction as the view if that makes sense. If I was on the other side of the church I would want to face the south.
Main thing for view is how far up you are from the beach, higher up the better the view but some will prefer to stay at the lowest point possible for other reasons so there is not right answer on best placement.
From high up at main road level like where the Eden Roc is you can view both directions.
The town at the bottom has a beach and a ferry dock and promenade, from their you climb up stairs to the church and then stores as the town winds up to a partially restricted car road and then to the top of the main part of town where the main road and bus stop are. There are hotels in each section. If you stay at the main road level your hotel will have a better view than if further down into the town you will be also have a much easier time taking the bus or any taxi. Conversely you are not very close to the beach, the ferry, the church, and the shops are not far but down a little.
Hotels in the middle are usually closer to shopping and may still have a great view or could have a restricted view.
Hotels at the bottom don't have as good a view but are closer to the water, some are right at the water and/or may even have beach access and easier to catch ferries from, on the other hand you have to climb up to get to the main road for buses, taxi's, etc...
It is a vertical town and quite unique in that way.

A poster above referred to Sorrento as charming but I think when it comes to charm and character Positano has that in spades over Sorrento.
Everywhere you look and turn in Positano is beautiful, it is really tiny but because of the hills, winding roads and way shops are tucked into alleys it can actually take quite some time to explore all of it.
It is definitely laid back and good for relaxing but also most of the year is convenient for catching the ferry to Capri for a full day trip and has good bus access for easy travel to Sorrento and in the other direction to Amalfi and Ravello. If you mainly want to see the Amalfi Coast it is actually well positioned in the middle and makes a good hub/base.

Sorrento is much, much larger and has a more resort, sterile type of feel at least it did to me.
Sorrento does make for a better hub/base for daytrips especially if they include Naples, Pompeii, has more transportation options and easier to reach from Airports, more varied shopping and in the case of the hotels above town overlooking the small fishing marinas below, the panoramic views over the bay of Naples can actually be even superior than any single view in Positano.
But not everywhere in Sorrento has a great view, like Positano does and walking around Sorrento does not have the same charming feel.
Sorrento was beautiful and I would return in a heartbeat but Positano leaves an impression on you that stays with you and calls you back.

Just my personal observation and has nothing to do with which town is nicer but Sorrento we were the only American guests with most everyone from England, we were also the only guest not on a half board plan ; while in Positano our hotel was filled with mostly all Americans and I didn't even see one hotel in Positano that offers half board. Talking to folks that worked at both hotels they implied that was true of the two towns main tourist base.

Posted by
9420 posts

mreynolds, we'll just have to agree to disagree about which town is more charming. It's all very subjective. I happen to like Sorrento much more and would not describe Sorrento as you did. I could explain why, but this isn't the appropriate time or place since Marlene knows where she wants to stay. I think both towns are beyond wonderful, in different ways.
I do have to say though, I shudder at the thought of staying in a hotel "full of Americans" when I'm in Italy. We stayed in a wonderful hotel in Sorrento (3 times, a week each time) with a large private terrace with an amazing view of the Bay of Naples (with Capri, Mt Vesuvius, Sorrento, and Naples) filled with Italians and other Europeans. Never saw any British there, but would have been happy if I did. And our hotel did not offer half board. Although it did have a fabulous restaurant where locals came to eat.

Posted by
32202 posts

Positano is a beautiful town and certainly worth a visit, but if you're planning on doing a lot of touring in that area it's not as convenient for transportation (although the boat trip to Capri is easy from there).

Do you have the details on how you'll be getting to Positano?

Posted by
1003 posts

On our 3 visits to the AC we have always stayed in Sorrento for logistic purposes (had a car & needed pkg) and love it here but Positano is charming as is Amalfi town & Ravello. If you want to be near a bus stop, I know the Hotel California is not far from the Sponda bus stop in Positano as I remember walking by it but not sure about the location of your other choice. You will have a wonderful time no matter where you choose to stay. Buon viaggio!

Posted by
3 posts

Hello all,

Thank you so much for your valuable insights and opinions. I know that some people prefer Sorrento, but for as long as I can remember, I've pictured myself in Positano for some reason, so I think I just have to go with that.

Since we only have 3 nights there, and will be there after time spent in Rome, I'm fine with a little R&R. And, I'm interested in a boat ride over to Capri, too. I know the time will go by quickly! I'd prefer to be higher up on the hill, rather than down at the beach, and mreynolds, I love the idea of gazing on the beautiful Santa Maria dome, too.

As far as how to get there, not sure yet. Maybe drive, so we have some flexibility? I've read that it's a pretty crazy road, but we drive Hwy 1 in Northern California pretty often, which I think has a similar terrain. Then again, it would also be nice to arrive by ferry and be able to see the coast line from the water. Will figure that out later!

Mreynolds, thank you for your detailed and thoughtful response. I really appreciated it.

I think I'll take David in Brisbane's suggestion and live it up at the Hotel California. Kind of fits, since it shares the name of our state :)

Thank you all again. I will share any interesting trip notes when we return!

Marlene

Posted by
32202 posts

Marlene,

Driving may not be the best idea, but it's your choice. There are some potentially expensive "caveats" to be aware of, both when using public transit as well as using rental cars.

A few points you'll need to be aware of.....

  • Each driver listed on the rental form will require the compulsory International Driver's Permit which is used in conjunction with your home D.L.'s. The IDP's are easily available for a small fee at any AAA office and are valid for one year.
  • You'll need to be vigilant to avoid the dreaded ZTL (limited traffic) areas which exist in many towns in Italy. Expensive fines will result, which you won't know about until several months after you return home.

One of the easiest methods to get to Positano is to take the high speed train from Rome to Naples, and then hire a private service such as the Monetti Taxi listed in the guidebook to take you from there to Positano. Using a Ferry from Naples is a bit more "awkward".

Posted by
1829 posts

Marlene,
Keep in mind if renting a car you will have to pay to park at the hotel if they even offer it and likely won't use it during your stay so it is usually not recommended.
The coastal road can be fun to drive (at least for a passenger), the views sure are beautiful but you need to pay attention and forced to driver slower than would allow a driver to enjoy.
Rt 1 in California in the Big Sur area which I consider to be the best driving road I have ever had the pleasure of being on is much different. That road is my perfect test car road and just a dream to be a passenger or driver on. There is a side road off of Rt. 1 though in that area that maybe you have been on and I consider that road to be very similar to the coastal road.
That road is Nacimento-Ferguson Rd. and was equal parts fun and terrifying to drive.

All of the other towns on the Amalfi Coast can easily be visited via bus from Positano make sure to see both Amalfi and Ravello ; definitely preferred Ravello over Amalfi ; there are other smaller towns you can stop by as well via the bus and then also make sure to plan a full day for the ferry day trip to Capri which is a must see while you are there.

Susan: I did not mean my statement of which town has guests from which parts of the world in any way to be a positive and negative and agree it sounds more like a negative to me as well ; if I were to choose a place in Italy would not want to be in the all-American one, just was an observation I made that Positano seemed to be largely American tourists and well known here while Sorrento seemed to be more European tourists with very few Americans. It likely has to do more with advertising or press coverage in respective areas.
We also stayed at a hotel with an amazing view in Sorrento (Hotel Bel Air) above the town and had a large room with good sized balcony and one of the best views of my life right from the hotel room looking right out over the Bay of Naples. The single view was honestly better than any single view in Positano but as stated much preferred the town of Positano.
I did not think that highly of the town of Amalfi, seemed to lack charm but could be because we did not stay overnight there or multiple days there.

My opinion is shared even more so by my wife who still has perfume we bought in Positano and a favorite pair of sandals that was made to fit her feet by a little sandal shop in town as well. She has still saved our shopping bags and business cards we picked up there as well and stays in touch with places there via FB. I know she wants to go back.

Posted by
353 posts

Marlene,

I find the easiest route to Positano is through Salerno. From Rome, there are direct, high speed trains every 2 hours to Salerno (more involving a change in Naples). See www.trenitalia.com for schedules and ticket prices.

From Salerno, you can take a bus, ferry or taxi to Positano. See this webpage for details on getting to Positano from Salerno: http://www.lifestylepositano.com/en/arrive_in_positano_from_salerno

I find taking a taxi from the Salerno train station to Positano the easiest option. You can arrange one ahead or find one waiting at the station in Salerno. The fare should be about 50 euros, so be sure to confirm the price with the driver before getting into the cab. The above website lists a shuttle service you can arrange ahead. The hotel in Positano may also be able to do this for you.

Posted by
3 posts

Ken and Rich, thanks for the suggestions about the train and/or driving. I had thought to take the train from Rome to Naples, but since my husband wants to go to Pompei, thought it might be easier via car. Also, give us more flexibility in exploring the coast. But, I've made notes about what you said. Rich, appreciate the suggestion about the route through Salerno. Have written that down.

mreynolds - it sounds like you like a "good drive" as much as my husband does. I, on the other hand, love beautiful views, as long as I'm not on the ocean side of Hwy 1 on the North Coast. Then my palms get a little sweaty :) I told my husband about your suggestion of the Nacimento-Ferguson Rd. in the Big Sur area, and I know he'll want to check it out the next time we're down there. Which is not often enough. It's one of my all time favorite areas.

Thanks again to all of you. I appreciate your advice so much!

Marlene

Posted by
365 posts

Rented a villa in Positano for a week. You dont need a car, nor do you want one. Buses are always available.
Lorieann