So, as time approaches for our grand trip, we're beginning to think we won't have time (based in Florence) to see Rome, Assisi, some Tuscan villages - and Cinque Terre. But I'd love a flavor of the sea - has anyone been to Portovenere, and is it a direct train ride from Florence? Or, better yet, are there charming seaside villages near Lucca, Pisa and not so far from Florence? We will be traveling entirely by train and/or bus. Thank you...
Marjie, Portovenere is a bit of a "challenge" to get to, as there's no rail station there. You'll have to travel by train to La Spezia and then walk down from the station to the Bus stop (it's a bit of a hike). The easiest solution (and the one I'd suggest) would be to visit the five towns of the Cinque Terre. Riomaggiore provides the same type of distinctive pastel-coloured buildings as Portovenere, and Monterosso has a beautiful beach and both a "new town" and "old town" sections to explore. You can easily reach the towns by train by first going to La Spezia and then taking the local trains from there (distances are short). The trip from La Spezia to Riomaggiore is only about nine minutes. Visiting that area as a day trip from Florence will be somewhat of a long day. Happy travels!
Portovenere is reached by bus from La Spezia. There aren't really any charming seaside villages near Florence, heading north the first are Tellaro and Lerici.
If you are short of time, the Cinque Terre are going to be the quickest as you can get there directly by train. Don't try to see everything - you need motivation to return!
My wife and I spent a day and a night in Portovenere. We loved it. Small, quiet and extremely friendly people. The Bay of Poets if beautiful and the fortress and church are cool. The real bonus for us was to take a boat to 5 Terre. It was wonderful to see the towns from the sea. If you stay there consider taking the boat. Weather permitting it stops at the towns. Most don't get to see Italy from the Med.
You can go to Lerici and take a boat from there to Portovenere. We then took the boat from Portovenere along the CT to Liverno. Liked Portovenere a lot - only place I have ever seen a vending machine selling pesto!