Pompei from Salerno

I see one problem and one "warning" about seeing Pompeii and Herculaneum on the way to Rome. The problem is what to do with your luggage at Herculaneum. It's been reported here that there is storage at both the Pompeii site and the Circumvesuviana train station. I don't believe there is anywhere at Herculaneum for luggage storage. The "warning" is that is a really long day and you'll be out in the heat and sun for long hours - there's little shade at either sight and and lots of walking. To get from Salerno, you'd take the train to the Pompeii city station, then a taxi for the short ride to the excavations. From there, the Circumvesuviana to Herculaneum. From there to get to Rome, you'd either take the Circumvesuviana on to Naples or you'd have to return to Pompeii by Circumvesuviana (to pick up luggage) and then back to the city train station for a local train to Naples, then fast train to Rome. On the other hand, if you go straight from Salerno to Rome, there are trains that don't even go through Naples and others that stop but don't require a train change. The only other solution I can think of is to hire a private driver. You'd avoid all the wait time for the Circumvesuviana and leave your luggage in the car with the driver. A guide for Pompeii could be a really good idea, especially if you have kids. A good guide will always add to the experience.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't switch the Pompeii day with one of your Amalfi Coast days. If there's no luggage storage at the Salerno train station, you could leave your luggage at your hotel for the day.

Are you taking an organized tour to Vannulo and Paestum? If not, how are you going to Vannulo? That's not a long day. Maybe switch that to the 17th?

Chani

Your "warning" and concern was also weighing upon me hence my initial post. I was torn between the direct train from Salerno to Rome and having to cut short one of my AC day trips . In anycase - thank you for confirming my suspicion - the only reason why i still had it on the original plan was i was not sure how else to tweak my itinerary.

1.) Would you suggest doing Pasteum and Vanolo on the 17th and then head back to Salerno to take the Italo Train at 3:30pm to Rome.
2.) With regards to a private tour for Pompei enroute to Rome. Any recommended ones? Would you know how much would it cost?
3.) I havent plan to book a tour for Pasteum and Vanolo - i was hoping to Train from Salerno to Pasteum and then perhaps take a local cab there? What would your suggestion be?
4.) With regards to Pompei - would think hiring a local guide there directly might be the most economical option for a guided tour?

Thanks!
LSD

First off, there's an Italo train at 6 pm to Rome. And there are later trains on Trenitalia. If you want to get a train that early in the day, I don't think you should plan to go too far.

I drove from Salerno to Vannulo and then to Paestum. I'm don't know about a taxi, Vannulo is in farmland, close to the highway but not to anything else, so you'd have to go round-trip by taxi from Paestum and maybe have the driver wait while you visit. Even if you could order a taxi to pick you up, you may have to pay for the driver's ride from wherever he gets the call (Paestum?) to the farm. Weekends are especially busy at Vannulo (locals go to buy the cheese which sells out pretty early). The gelato and cannoli are very good.

I don't have personal experience with private drivers or Pompeii tours, just what others have reported on the forum. If you don't get responses soon, try using the search function.

Thanks Chani,

I just got a reply from Vannulo - they dont do farm tours on the 17th of Sept. Have to find a weekday.

Was wondering any possibility of squeezing 2 of my AC day trips into 1 day? Perhaps a day tour of Amalfi/Ravello/Positano?

Then i would be able to keep 17th Sept as my travelling day.

Thanks!

I think combining your Amalfi/Ravello and Positano visits into a single day trip is very realistic. If ferry schedules don't fit perfectly, you could supplement with the frequent bus service between those towns and Salerno. Combining those 2 day trips would leave you free to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum from your Salerno base on the other day.

Note: Pompei is the name of the new town which is on the Salerno-Naples train line while Pompeii is the name of the ancient ruins which are on the Circumvesuviana train line. The two train lines are only a couple of kilometers apart at that point.

Note: Pompei is the name of the new town which is on the
Salerno-Naples train line while Pompeii is the name of the ancient
ruins which are on the Circumvesuviana train line. The two train lines
are only a couple of kilometers apart at that point.

Thanks, Frank--never knew that! On the train line and also the Circumvesuviana line, it's 'Pompei', and I had thought it was the Italian spelling and I was using it exclusively.

First off, LSD, kudos to staying in Salerno. I have stayed there for 5 nights and recently Chani did as well. Great base as you'll find out, very chill and in my opinion the 'real Italy'. Try Pizzeria Trianon for true Napolitan pizza. It's a dive but cheap & great.

We did Pompeii from Salerno in March 2015. Took the Trenitalia route to the Pompei-town stop in about 50 minutes, and there was no taxi to be found, but it was a nice day so we walked the approximate half-mile to the southern entrance. That time of year, did not see any touts asking to be a guide, but if there are, and the cost is not prohibitive--no more than 20 Euro--why not I say? The brochure they give you upon admission is pretty much worthless, and nothing is marked. You can also hire a private guide in advance, at quite a bit more money. Either way, plan on spending a good 4 hours there, and you will have still only seen maybe 70% of the ruins.

Speaking of, if you are really into the archeological aspect, I don't see Naples on your itinerary but all the art from Pompeii is at the Archeological Museum there, has been since the mid-1700's. It's a 50 minute train ride from Salerno, then a 15 minute taxi ride. Well worth it if you get the chance.

Finally, I would combine Ravello/Amalfi/Positano in one day, and for this one I would recommend the SITA bus from Salerno station (55 min), only because it's a real 'trip'. Hopefully it won't be too crowded that time of year--sit on the driver's side and hang on--the cliff dropoffs out the bus window are something else, and it's really cheap entertainment! You will have to change buses at Amalfi for the 45 minute continuation to Positano. Then maybe take the ferry back to Salerno for a nap, then a nice dinner after 8:00, because that's when the Salerno restaurants start serving dinner--that's a great day of touring!

Enjoy your planning!

Jay, while I always see the ancient ruins referred to as Pompeii in English, you could be right that Pompeii is just an anglicized version of Pompei. Now you have me curious.

Frank--on the CV train the neon sign for stops said 'Pompei', and I believe the station sign spelled it that way too. Who knows?

This is the Herculaneum storage description from Rick Steves' Italy (p. 1007):

Baggage Storage: Herculaneum is harder than Pompeii for those with luggage, but not impossible. Herculaneum’s train station has lots of stairs and no baggage storage, but you can roll wheeled luggage down to the ruins and store it for free in a locked area in the ticket office building (pick up bags at least 30 minutes prior to site closing). To get back to the station, consider splurging on a €5 taxi (ask the staff to call one for you).

There is a city bus from Salerno that goes to the Pompei Scavi main entrance. Stops at the tourist port, as well as other stops along the way (it's a regular bus).

Jay - It appears that Pompeii is the anglicized name for Scavi di Pompei. Even the English version of the official website uses Pompeii to refer to the ruins, whereas the Italian version uses only Pompei, including variations such as Scavi di Pompei that appears on the Circumversuviana sign. That's what I love about Italy; there's always something new to discover or learn, even if it's just something small like this.

Frank: Thank you! And i will most certainly do that! My preference would be to do a combination of Ferry and Bus - but as my other 4 family members are in their fifties/sixties - not sure squeezing on a SITA bus in Mid September might not be the wiser thing to do.

So best way to get to Pompei - (Trenitalia) Salerno train Station to Pompei Station? And then walk from there.
I have been reading there are "multiple" entrances to Pompei.
How should i plan my entrance and exit to Pompei - would that affect which train station i arrive and depart from Pompei?

Jay: I am excited to stay in Salerno! Was initially considering Vietri Sul Mare - but have been advised that basing in Salerno might be the more practical option for day trips. We unfortunately do not have time for Naples - its for our next return trip!

As mentioned to Frank - a combination of Ferry and Bus would be the best. With regards to Ferry rides and Bus rides - do i need to pre-book? Or can i just buy it on the day or day before?

If you have any advice on (entrance and exit Pompei) that would be much appreciated.

Any good Salerno restaurants to recommend?
Thanks! Been working on this 3 week italian trip for almost 2 months...i hope i dont get burnt out before i go! Planning a trip from scratch is fun..but tiresome..especially for someone who is OCD! lol

Laura: Appreciate the info! As with Chani- advice - i am concern/reluctant to have a long tiring day with 4 older folks and having to lug my luggage all the way to Rome. Private driver might be an option but i would rather pay for a guide to explain a nice site then expensive transport. Thank you for responding!

Zoe: Would you know how long would the bus take? Would the route be picturesque? Thank you for responding!

Thanks friends! I really appreciate the advice and enthusiasm! Its been such pleasure to be on this forum! I hope i can still come back with more questions!

Blessings,
LSD

Haven't been but friends of ours said Vietri sul Mare is beautiful, great views, known for its pottery. Easy bus ride too--maybe 20 minutes from Salerno. Just not sure how crowded the SITA bus will be in September (still technically high season)--in early March as a rule they were half-full at most, making it a very efficient and cheap mode of transportation to ride up and down the Amalfi Coast.

And Zoe's comment about a bus from Salerno to the Pompei Scavi (main) entrance is definitely worth investigating--I hadn't heard about its existence. But as I said upthread, it's not a bad walk from the Trenitalia station in Pompei-town to the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance, actually it was very pleasant for us. We walked by the Pompei City Hall where there was a monument with two actual beams from the 9/11 Twin Towers. When we left from the Scavi entrance, however, we cabbed it to the Trenitalia station to get back to Salerno. The 'dogs' were tired by that time!

In Salerno, Angolo Masuccio in the Old Town is a small, boutique-like restaurant, very different and fascinating. Maybe holds 20 people. Check it out while walking around. For something different (and even though I'm Italian through & through, on a long trip I occasionally want 'something else'), Mythos is a great casual Greek restaurant, with kebabs and the like. Excellent.

Don't get freaked about the planning, as exhausting as it may seem. It's fun, but up until the day you leave--if you're like me--you're constantly fine-tuning your plans, which can make you quasi-crazy. Here's the thing: you never know what you'll encounter on a daily basis over there, especially dealing with logistics, so have a Plan A but with a Plan B at the ready, just in case. Because...inevitably during an Italian do-it-yourself trip, there's always a 'just in case'!

It seems to me that someone staying in Salerno would be better off with Pompeii, for transit reasons. I happen to prefer Pompeii, but you can find people on this board who prefer Herculaneum. While Google Maps can show you the mileage from the Circumvesuviana station to the Herculaneum excavation, a map doesn't show the steep downhill grade which you'd have to lug your baggage back up, in the heat, on the way to Naples, if you chose that option. I would not do Herculaneum from Salerno, with or without luggage. A small factor for Pompeii is that I think Pompeii has more interesting places to duck out of the rain if you happen to end up with a wet day. Also, you can eat lunch inside Pompeii, but not at Herculaneum.

Note that if you take your luggage to Pompeii from Salerno, you will be checking the luggage at the luggage-check 1/2 mile from the Trenitalia station, not at the luggage-check just 200 feet from the Circumvesuviana station. That's not necessarily a deal-breaker, but you need to make sure you understand the difference.

There are some minuses to ferries, like possible crowding, and the pressure to buy a particular departure home, in advance, to be sure of space at the time you want. I find your proposed schedule to be very busy, but certainly do-able. Make sure you have seen the ferry schedules - they can be hard to find, confirm the year and season (i.e. high/low, etc.) and download. There are multiple ferry companies in Sorrento, I didn't stay in Salerno. I don't know if you can pre-book ferries at all.

I don't often hire a guide or a formal tour, so I can't advise on those choices. Be sure you allow two to four hours for Pompeii.

The fastest (and least expensive) route from Salerno to Pompeii is to take the 30-45 minute regional train ride to Pompei station. From there you could walk, but taxi is quick and not that expensive. There's also a bus, but I think it only runs once an hour. (Note: Trenitalia schedule shows 1 hour buses in lieu of trains during August, but shows the trains running again by early September.)

You'll first pass the Piazza Esedra entrance which is generally less busy than the main Porta Marina entrance, but it will bring you into Pompeii near the theater instead of near the forum. Porta Marina would be the better option if you want to hire a guide or store luggage.

If you decide to continue on to Herculaneum, the Porta Marina exit is closer to the Circumvesuviana station. If you decide to skip it, then you also have the option to end your visit near the theater and exit there.

Jay: I have pencilled in Angolo Masuccio!

I totally understand where you are coming from .."fine-tuning your[my] plans" - being a detailed oriented person can both be a bane and boon especially when planning for a 3 week trip in italy for 4 slightly older folks in their late fifties/early sixties.

But thank you for your encouragement! I guess my Plan B will be "dont sweat it! Its a blessing to be in Italy and just whing it"

On a separate note - have you been to Tenuta Vannulo near Paestum? I got a reservation for the 15th at 9am. But i am wondering whats the best way to get there from Paestum train station. Tenuta Vannulo gave me taxi numbers - i am just assuming i am going to call and arrange the day before i arrive. Any ideas?

Tim: Thanks for responding! I have decided not to do Pompei enroute to Rome. Too much hassle and "transfers" and not to mention just tiresome a day its going to be.

Frank: Your recommendation would be the Trenitalia ride from Salerno Station to Pompei Station?

I have decided to do Pompei as a day trip from Salerno - so no luggages. phew!
Would you recommendation then be to just enter through the Piazza Esedra entrance?
With regards to tickets - i am assuming its best to either use the Artecard or prebook tickets?

Can i just convey all my thanks to all of you. It has been a pleasure to hear such enthusiastic advice. To be honest - in some other forums i have visited - there are often snide and often uncalled for remarks which i felt was unnecessary. But i have not encountered it at Rick Steves' forum! Kudos to all of you!

Oh...

If you guys would help me with an additional question...

16th Sept (Saturday) - Should i do Pompei, Capri or Amalfi/Ravello/Positano?
Which would be more "palatable" with the hogs of cruise tourists descending on a weekend?
I would have done Paestum the day before...

Thanks!

All's I'm saying, LSD, is that you can fine-tune to the nth degree, but until you get over there you just don't know. We expect Italian websites to be constantly updated with changes for strikes, weather issues, etc., and that's often just not the case. And sometimes, through no fault of your own, they contain bad/inaccurate information.

And since you're the planner for four other people, you've got to have info at the ready in case something falls through. Yes, you're in Italy and everything's great no matter what, but you want to make the best and most efficient use of your time. So be knowledgeable about transport schedules and other attractions available to you. Lots of unexpected, story-to-tell-worthy nuggets right around almost every corner.

No, never made it down south to Paestum or a buff mozzarella farm. And I would not do Paestum and then Pompei the next day. Pompei's worth a whole day, it's fantastic and frankly if it were either of the two I'd definitely pick Pompei over Paestum. And although I've never been to Paestum, I'd pick the Archeological Museum in Naples over that as well. Just sayin', although Paestum is a short ride from Salerno--I have heard it can be done back & forth in a half-day from there.

Yes, I recommend you take the Trenitalia train between Salerno and Pompei. It's called the Metropolitano on their website, but it equates to a regional train (45 minute trip) or regional voloce train (30 minute trip). I believe the train is covered by the transportation card that comes with the Canpania Arte card, but it's best to verify that point as some changes may have occurred in June when a new company began administering the card.

The Piazza Esedra entrance will likely have shorter ticket lines. I used that entrance last time I visited. You could use a Campania Arte card or buy tickets at the entrance. I doubt pre-booking is necessary, but others with recent experience at Pompeii can weigh-in if they feel differently. The one plus to using the Porta Marina entrance is that it takes you right to the forum, which is a dramatic way to begin your visit.

I am very sorry we could not do Paestum from Sorrento. It's an important site I'd have loved to see.

The way to pick successive days might be by the exertion required. You don't know yet how many steps there are in Positano, or how much walking there is on Capri. Ravello is primarily a pedestrian location too. I'll bet that Paestum has less walking than Pompeii, but you could easily walk two miles in four hours at Pompeii. We certainly walked five miles on Capri, and there is no bus for most of the excursions you could take, and the lines for the tiny busses are impossible. Like the other post said, you can overplan and miss the big picture anyway. There are some superficial similarities between Capri and Positano. You haven't mentioned whether the lengthy Blue Grotto excursion is a must for your group. We skipped it.

There's a lot of time sitting on the bus (or even in a private car service, but 5 is too many for that) for Positano/Amalfi/Ravello. Because we stayed in Sorrento, I was surprised to see just now that the fastest ferry to Capri from Salerno takes over two hours. That's a lot of bumpy sitting and time away from touring. However, I'm sure the water views of Positano and Salerno are magnificent.

Jay: Thanks! That is very good advice! I will make sure i will have a "gap day" in between Paestum and Pompei!

Appreciate your help!!

Frank: Thanks Piazza Esedra it shall be!!!

Tim: Thanks! Appreciate your advice on exertion needed..thats certainly a consideration i overlooked. Will definitely factor that in.
Nope i have heard horror stories about the lengthy Blue Grotto exercusion..hours long wait for a brief 2-3 minute entry. I am sure it is extremely beautiful but i am not sure my elderly folks and aunties can handle waiting on the boat for such a prolonged period of time.

Would you or any of you have suggestions for tours to Capri or to Amalfi/Ravello and Positano? Or would a free and easy, self booking of ferry and just walking around be adequate to visiting these places.

Thanks!
LSD

I think the city bus to Pompei took about an hour (Pompei is the last stop). I just happened to see it one day and took the ride.

Zoe: How was the ride! Was it a scenic ride? Would you recommend it over the train?

Thanks!
LSD

I will let Zoe speak for herself, but I can't imagine the Salerno/Pompei Scavi bus being that scenic. When you leave Salerno, the bus will not turn west to head out onto the scenic A.C. peninsula so the main value is the directness Point A to Point B.

Personally, I think your idea of 'free and easy' travels of Amalfi, Ravello & Positano is the way to go. Sure, there is some history that you might find interesting from a guide's backstory but the main draw of the Amalfi Coast venues are the spectacular views, some of the best on Earth. Again, however, know your transport options up, down and sideways so you can zig & zag at a moment's notice if need be.

The appropriate, and relatively common way to take elderly relatives around Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello is to ask your hotel to recommend a partner who provides air-conditioned vans for 8 hours with an English-speaking driver (not really "a guide", you don't need one, and you might not have room for him) who can "show them around". We paid about 250 Euros for that, from Sorrento, a few years ago and got exactly what we wanted. We also avoided waiting for the arrival of overcrowded busses and sitting on the side of the bus with no view. It makes the difference between a relaxing day and an exhausting one.

We could not avoid all traffic on the single two-lane road through Positano. And we could not avoid about 200 stair-steps to see a good cross-section of Positano. We also got drive-bys of two additional towns. When our driver offered a pottery shop, we politely said no thanks, but do they have tourist bathrooms. The answer, of course, was "Yes, we'll stop and use them." We had "free time" for a drink in Positano and for lunch and dessert in two different places in Ravello.

I think Capri for elderly guests requires special planning that I am not qualified to do. They may have to settle for a less comprehensive visit than we had. They certainly can't walk back to town down the Phoenician Steps!

Hi guys,

i am back from Italy - just wanted to convey my thanks for helping me plan what was a wonderful trip. Unfortunately, i didnt get to capri..but positano, amalfi and Ravello was amazing.

Thanks Folks
I hope to be back in Italy soon!
Blessings,
LSD

Thanks for posting again, glad you had a great time.

LSD was there anything you could have done without?

Hi Jamiev,

None! On the contrary - my itinerary changed (my mom fall sick) and we wouldnt make our way to Capri and we missed Tenuta Vannulo. So - i could have done more! But we opted to take one day off (the planned day to Capri) to rest and recuperate before the last leg of our italy tour...which was Rome :)

LSD

Hi LSD - where did you stay in Salerno? Would you recommend for a family of 4 (incl 2 college kids).

Also, is it a good idea to go to Amalfi coast in december or should one avoid going there in winter?

thanks

Raj

Raj,

I would recommend staying in the Historic Old Town.

The apartment i stayed is an Air B n B https://www.airbnb.com.sg/rooms/18441534 . It has 3 bedrooms and a very modern and wonderful apartment.

I would not be able to advice whether december would be a good time as i went in late september. But Salerno is a wonderful place - small and less touristy and convenient to travel to Amalfi, Ravello, Positano and Capri.

Cheers,
LSD

Thanks, LSD. The apartment looks very clean and nice and would work great for my family.

One of the reviews said "Neighbours made it clear they were not happy with us which the owners had warned us about. They were quite in our faces." Did you have any issue with the neighbours?

Raj

Raj,

Ah. SGD = Singaporean Dollar. You can change the currency on the bottom of your air b n b page. Do you already have an air b n b account? If not - i can recommend you and you can get a discount i believe.

I was similarly warned about the neighbours, but i had no issues at all. In fact - i met with some friendly neighbors. The apartment is really wonderfully located with an amazing view. I highly recommend it. Good restaurants within a 5 minute walk too.

Cheers,
LSD

Hi LSD - I figured out it was Sing $ and edited my message :-) I have an airbnb account.

One other question. Would it be better to fly into Naples or Rome to go to Salerno? Or doesn't matter.

thanks
Raj

Raj,

I would think it depends on your overall itinerary.

Are you only going to Salerno? Or are you thinking of spending some time in Rome or Naples?

I trained from Florence (bypassing Rome) to Salerno.
The train ride (italo) was very comfortable.

Hope the trip goes well!
LSD

Hi LSD - itinerary is not made yet, still planning. Thanks for your help.
--raj

Raj,

Awesome. Feel free to chime back in if you have more questions.

LSD