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Pleading Ignorance: Your Counsel on a Week in Southern Tuscany/Umbria

Need your expert help, please. While we've traveled much of Italy in recent years, Tuscany for a week in Dec-Jan via public transport isn't something we've experienced, and the RS books are still leaving me a bit confused on the plan. What do you think about this itinerary?

-Nonstop flight Chicago to Rome late Christmas Day
-Train Rome to Orvieto
-3 nights Orvieto
-Bus Orvieto to Civita
-3 nights Civita (including NYE '10)
-Train back to Rome (via bus to Orvieto, then train to Termnini)
-1 night Rome
-Fly direct Rome to Chicago

We're looking for a pretty slow-paced week in warmer climes (compared to Chicago, mind you), with direct flights and some small-town charm for New Year's--after the absolute (but fun!) madness of Madrid last year. Appreciate your help!

Posted by
10344 posts

Hi Gio: It sounds like a well planned 7 night trip! (and if there aren't a lot of posts here, it may be because you've demonstrated, on these pages in the past, that you know as much about travel in Italy as any of us!):) yes, that was intended as a compliment!

Posted by
1317 posts

The train from Orvieto to Florence is a regional (or Intercity--shoot, I can't remember), and it was about 2 hours and 10 or 12 stops. Certainly doable as a daytrip and you might find some other cute towns along the way you want to visit.

Unless you want to actually spend some time in Rome, I would probably just book a week's stay in Orvieto and train in to visit whatever I was interested in (and train back and forth to Rome for the flights obviously).

One caveat about Orvieto's weather. I'm sure you know it's on top of a hill (cliffs really). We had decent, partly sunny, partly cloudy weather in late November, but it's noticiably colder than Rome, though I'm pretty sure it'd be warmer than Chicago at that time of year! When you are out along the walls, the wind can be pretty noticable, not so much on the main streets.

Wish I could come too--I adored Orvieto, and the people were among the friendliest I've encountered in Italy. :-)

Posted by
1317 posts

I believe that's technically all Umbria, not Tuscany. That's about as much critique as I have. ;-)

The only real question I would have is, having been to Orvieto (not Civita) that based on what I've heard of Civita it might be a little too slow-paced in winter. Plus, you can easily get between Orvieto and Civita in one day, so I'm curious why you would switch locations rather than just stay in Orvieto the entire time?

Just my two cents...

Posted by
586 posts

Thank you both so much! Appreciate the kind words, and the help. If Orvieto was a base for 5 nights, along with day trips to Civita and maybe even Firenze, and then we did 2 nights in Roma before departure, might that make more sense? You raise a great point: certainly no need to change sleeping arrangements more than necessary. And I think Civita is actually Lazio, neither Tuscany nor Umbria, so you're right, no Tuscany on this itinerary, unless we toss in a day visit to Florence.

Posted by
3250 posts

Hi Gio,
I agree with Liz, I think that Civita would be too quiet--especially for New Years Eve. I like your idea of spending a couple of nights in Rome in addition to Orvieto.
It sounds like a great trip!

Posted by
1288 posts

Just to add to what has been said: There is an express train from Rome to Florence. I believe the only other stop it makes if Orvieto. It is faster (but more expensive) than the regional train.

Posted by
75 posts

I would include Rome as I think your original itinerary is a bit too reserved and quiet, unless that's what you want. That bridge to Civita will probably feel like Chicago! Warmer climes? I don't know about that....

Posted by
586 posts

Thanks to all! We've changed our minds, based on your help. We're going to try something new, and stay in one hotel/town for seven days, but add some spice with three day trips over the course of the week, trying to balance some serious relaxation with places we love:

-7 nights Orvieto as a home base, with day trips to Firenze (via express train, 1 hr 43 min), Civita (via bus, 1 hr), and Roma (via train, 1 hr) - maybe two visits to Rome if we want more action. We'll stay home in Orvieto for NYE. Will be refreshing to unpack once, and since we're located in between Firenze and Roma on a main train line--with a wonderful hill town as our home base--we're comfortable now that we've got good balance and a practical amount of movement for a trip of just one week. Grazie!

Posted by
3601 posts

I'd join the naysayers on Civita. According to your info, you'd devote one of your days and 2 hours of bus travel to what doesn't even qualify as a town. Hamlet, maybe. The area you're planning to visit is loaded with charming towns. Montepulciano, Pienza, and Todi suggest themselves for starters. Another consideration is weather. While it will probably, but not necessarily, be warmer than Chicago in December, you need to think about that long walk on the bridge in cold wind and/or rain.