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Planning trip to Italy - appreciate tips

My husband and I are planning a trip to Italy in September. It is his 1st, my 2nd -- but the first that I am planning entirely on my own, without benefit of a travel agent or being on a tour. Our air reservations are made. I have all of our accommodations reserved thru Airb&b. Our itinerary is loose -- 6 days in Milan, 3 in Brescia, 6 in Florence, 6 in Sorrento, and 3 in Rome -- using those as base cities to take day trips (train) to nearby cities.

Any recommendations on what to see/do in each of these places? Guidance on trains/busses? Things to look out for? I've read RS's recommendations on wearing a money belt to carry ID, credit/debit cards, money -- but am getting conflicting advice on whether to carry our passports with us or leave them in the room.

My husband wants to see the Vatican (St Peters & the Sistine Chapel) and the Colosseum. I've read that no tickets are needed for St Peters. Do we need to purchase tickets for the Museum/Sistine Chapel in advance or can they be purchased at time of entry? Can we get Colosseum tickets the day of or the day before? Can these be purchased at the Colosseum? I'd rather not be tied to a tight schedule if we don't have to be.

I'm sure more questions will come up as I read your suggestions, but I think that's it for now. I'm also sure I'll have a story or two for the "blunders" section when we return.

Posted by
32704 posts

I have some really serious questions about the spread of your days - but before I pile in, are you saying that all the dates are set and all the lengths of stays are set in stone?

Posted by
32198 posts

mary,

I have the same questions as Nigel mentioned. Is this all "written in stone" or are a few changes possible. Six days in Milan would be about four too many for me.

Posted by
15576 posts

Hi Mary. My first impression is that you're spending a lot of time in Milan and very little time in Rome. I haven't been to Brescia, so I can't speak to that. 6 days is rather a lot for Florence, unless you really want to immerse yourselves in Renaissance art and architecture. If you want to enjoy other towns in Tuscany, maybe spend some of that time in Siena instead.

Passports - there have been long discussions about that question here. There is no definitive answer.

Reservations:
Florence - Uffizi is a must. Academia is highly recommended. Without reservations, you could waste hours in line.
Rome - Borghese is a must, and you need to be there an hour before your entrance time.

There are no tickets for St. Peter's. Entrance is free. The line to go through security before entering can be long, so it's usually better to plan to go early in the day. If you want to climb the dome, best to be there when it opens, to avoid long lines. The entrance to the dome is after the security check. From there you can enter the church without needing to go through security again. The Vatican Museums have a separate entrance - about a 10-15 minute walk from St. Peter's. They're closed on Sundays and most museums in Rome are closed on Mondays, so Monday is the most crowded (and thus the worst) day to visit. There is usually a long line in the morning, after that it's hit or miss. I think it's worth the few euros to make a reservation and not take a chance on standing in line for an hour.

Posted by
7249 posts

Hi, I also have questions regarding why 6 days in Milan, 6 in Florence, but I'll answer your question. If you have some flexibility in your locations & accommodations, also remember to think about how much time each day you will be spending on a train to get to each day-trip location. I'd rather be 3 days in Florence and 3 days in Siena, for instance.

Milan: Lake Como & Lake Maggoire (Stresa) are nearby & accessible by train.

Florence: Siena is easier & quicker to access by bus. The bus station in Florence is very close to the train station.

it would be a shame to miss Venice. It's 2 hours by train from Florence. Of course, you'll miss the best times of the day to be in Venice - early morning & evening.

Purchase a RS Italy guide book for more thorough suggestions.

Posted by
29 posts

The dates are pretty much set in stone due to the room/apartment reservations. For each city, I tried to schedule a couple of days with nothing preplanned so we can play it by ear -- and because my husband does NOT like to rush around and HAVE to be somewhere -- so some downtime for him. He also likes to get 1 place and settle in. If I had him moving every 3 days he'd have a fit.

While in Milan, we are staying in Navagli (sp). I was thinking 2 days to wander around Milan (with or without the hubby -- I like cities; him not so much) 1 day to either Lake Como or Lake Maggiore, 1 day to Genoa, and the other 2 for whatever strikes our fancy -- Portafino, the other lake (Maggiore or Como), Torino, whatever.

Brescia got added at my husband's request. He had wanted to go to the Beretta Museum, but we found out it is not open to the public. We found out there is an arms museum in Brescia, so that is a substitute. I have read that it is about a 2-hour train trip from Brescia to Venice, if we decide to do that. The train goes thru Verona and Padua, so those are also options. I love Venice, but there is only so much time and he didn't mention wanting to see it, so . . . Originally I had thought about 3 days in the CT, but that got cut for Brescia.

Florence -- pretty much the same idea as Milan. 2 - 3 days in the city, 1 day to Pisa and maybe Lucca (depending on how my husband is holding up), possibly a day in Sienna. There is also a neat little town called Montecatini Alto that we stayed in when we toured.

Whoa -- just looked at the clock and I have to be somewhere in 1 minute! Time flies. Will have to finish this later.

Posted by
29 posts

I'm back. Anyway, I loved Florence when I was there before and felt that we spent so much time at the Academia and a walking tour that we didn't really get a chance to just roam around the city and explore, which I am looking forward to.

I could easily spend 2 weeks on the Amalfi Coast. Only got to spend a couple of hours in Sorrento before, and am looking forward to spending some time exploring the town, as well as trips to Capri and Pompeii. Then there's Salerno, Ravello, Positano, Herculeum, Paestrum, Ischea (sp) and Naples. I'm debating about Naples -- it scares me a little, so would appreciate advice on that. Originally I had planned to end our trip here, spending the last day/night in Naples before flying home. I spent 3 days in Rome before, and felt like I had really seen most of what I wanted to see, though there were a couple of areas I wouldn't mind visiting again. But my husband wants to see the Vatican and the Colosseum (guess I can't blame him -- I'd want to too if I hadn't been there before), so an extra 3 days got added to the trip for this. I'm figuring we could wander around the area nearest our apartment and see the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navone, Pantheon, etc, our 1st day there (a Sunday). The Travesteri area also looks interesting if we hae time. I'm thinking on Monday we can go to the Colosseum and forum (do we need advance tickets?) and Tuesday for the Vatican. I was reading some site called RonRome (or something like that) that said there are generally no lines on Tuesday afternoons after 1:00, so wondering if we'd be safe to go that route.

The main thing I'm worried about is getting around on trains -- getting on the right one, getting off at the right stop, buying the right tickets, making connections -- basically finding my way around without getting too seriously lost. From what I understand, in most cases you don't need advance reservations -- you can buy your ticket right before you want to leave -- just be sure to punch your ticket on the train. Also seem to remember reading that you just keep your luggage with you. True? And I've gotten the impression that when the train stops you don't have very long to get off so you have to be at the right door and be ready when the train stops. That kind of has me worried -- that I'll miss an announcement and miss my stop, or won't make it to the door in time. Anyway, if anyone has tips on riding the trains they'd be appreciated.

Posted by
32198 posts

mary,

Regarding your questions about riding the trains......

To begin with, you might find it helpful to have a look at both the Man In Seat 61 and another look at the Ron In Rome websites. Both sites provide a LOT of good information about using trains in Italy.

Here's a brief summary that may also help.....

When travelling by train in Italy, there are a couple of VERY IMPORTANT potentially expensive "caveats" to be aware of.

When travelling on Regionale trains which don't require reservations, it's ESSENTIAL to validate (time & date stamp) the tickets prior to boarding the train on the day of travel.  This includes the Leonardo Express which travels between the airport and Roma Termini.

The validation machine will either be yellow or green & light gray with a digital display on the front.  These are easy to find and located near the tracks or in transfer tunnels.  If the machine is not working, writing the time & date on the ticket may be acceptable (ask the Conductor as soon as possible). If using the small "theatre style" tickets, these are inserted on the left side of the validation machines.

Those caught with unvalidated tickets may be fined on the spot! The fines start at about €40-50 per person and if not paid on the spot, they DOUBLE and increase from there!  The same fines apply to those travelling via Bus or Metro in Rome and other places (in that case, validation machines are often located on board the Bus).  Conductors are now carrying portable debit/credit card Terminals for speedy processing of fines.

Those travelling on the "premium" trains such as the Freccia (high speed) or InterCity trains MUST have a valid reservation or again may be fined on the spot! These fines also start at €50 per person, PLUS the cost of the reservation which is currently ~€8-10.  Reservations are compulsory and are specific to a particular train, date and departure time. It's NOT POSSIBLE to simply buy a ticket with reservations and then board any train.  The ticket or reservation will specify the train number (ie: ES-9718), so it's important to verify that before boarding. Reservations will specify a Car No. (Carrozza) and a Seat No. (Posti).

Yes, you do keep your luggage with you on trains. Any larger items are placed on the luggage racks which will be located at one end of each car, while smaller carry-on items can be placed on racks over your seat or even on the floor beside you. If you place luggage on the racks, be sure to watch it during the trip!

Regarding knowing when to get off trains, you can check the departure and arrival times on the ticket or online. When you arrive in stations, you can also check the sign boards that will be mounted on each platform, which have the name of the town or city. You'll also have to do some homework on the aspect of "train changes", as that process usually involves going down through a tunnel (with luggage) from one platform to another.

It is a good idea to be ready to disembark promptly as if the train is continuing on there will be people trying to get on and off at the same time. Be sure to note the method for releasing the door, which may vary on different trains.

One other point to mention is that you'll have to do some research on which stations you'll be using for each trip. Many cities have more than one station, and it's important to know which stations you'll be using when buying tickets.

You may find THIS short video tutorial very useful (about 8 minutes).

Hope this helps!

Posted by
15576 posts

When you are traveling to major cities, the train stop is usually obvious. The trains pull into stations fairly slowly, so you have time to get up and move along (with a lot of other people) toward the door. I found the best thing when traveling on the regionale (local) trains is to find out in advance the stop before mine. If you are traveling on the local trains, or if you have decided on a specific faster train, you can buy tickets days ahead of time, when you aren't rushed. Otherwise be sure to leave enough time at the station. In the larger cities (most of your destinations), there can be long lines at the ticket sellers and even at the ticket machines. Some machines take both cash and credit cards, some only take one. There are symbols on the top of the machines at the right that indicate which. If you are traveling during peak hours (for instance, early morning when there are commuters or Friday afternoon) the fast trains sell out. It's best to either get tickets in advance or travel at other times.

Posted by
11613 posts

Chani's idea works very well, know the stop before yours and start getting ready to leave the train. I sometimes take an iPad photo of the train departure schedule, as well. As Ken said, be sure to validate your regionale ticket before you board the train.

Posted by
29 posts

Thanks guys.

Ken, I will check out those sites you recommended. So, if I understand correctly, I will be using mostly premium trains. (Is this Trenitalia?) Where do the regional trains go? Or is it just that these are the slower trains? Can I get reservations on the premium trains the day I want to travel? Just go to the station and buy a ticket for (hopefully) the next train? From what I understand, trains run frequently -- every half-hour or so -- so if we arrive at the station 30 min before we want to leave, worst case scenario would be maybe waiting an hour? Do reserved tickets have to be validated? Is it better to buy round trip tickets for the day trips -- or can we just purchase return tickets when we are ready to return to our base? If luggage is put on racks at the end of a car, is it checked somehow or just left there? I'm not sure I'm comfortable just leaving it.

Chani, good suggestion about knowing the stop before yours so you can start getting ready to exit well before your station. I'm nervous about getting the bags at the end of the car (can't I just keep them all with me?) in time to make my exit.

Posted by
29 posts

Oh, what are your recommendations about Naples? On the good side, it will be near the end of the trip, so I will have some experience getting around -- but how hard is to to find your way around the town? And if we do go, what are the main things to see/do?

As to to carry or not to carry passport on day trips -- is there any occasion where we are likely to need them on us?

Posted by
3592 posts

Hi Mary,

Your last post gets right at the heart of one thing I hated about Naples. There is excellent public transport, but there were no schedules or maps to show us what went where. Also, people referred to stops, as in, " get off at _ _ _ ," but the bus didn't actually go there. That was simply a well-known (to Neapolitans) location; and, in one case, it wasn't even the official name of the piazza. The stop might actually be 2 blocks away. I felt as if we spent more time trying to reach places than really enjoying them. People at the TI office were fairly clueless. Also, the streets were full of trash, and there were lots of beggars. Our visit was quite a few years ago, so maybe things have improved. I suggest you look at tours on the Golden Tours website. They might have one that includes Naples' Archaeological Museum, imo, the only really must-see. If you want to do it on your own, take the Circumvesuviana from Sorrento and get a taxi.

Posted by
32198 posts

mary,

So, if I understand correctly, I will be using mostly premium trains.

Not necessarily. Many routes have both premium trains (which is my term) as well as Regionale trains, so which one you'll be using depends on which ones you decide to use. You may be using both types on some trips.

Is this Trenitalia?

You'll most likely be travelling via Trenitalia in most cases, but difficult to say without a list of which routes you plan on travelling. Italo may be a possiblity for some routes, but I'd suggest "keeping it simple" and just stick with Trenitalia.

Where do the regional trains go?

The Regionale trains go to the same locations as the premium trains, and some places the faster trains don't go.

Or is it just that these are the slower trains?

Yes, they are slower, especially as they make many stops and don't travel at high speed. They're somewhat the equivalent of a "bus on rails".

Can I get reservations on the premium trains the day I want to travel? Just go to the station and buy a ticket for (hopefully) the next train?

In many cases you can buy a ticket on the day of travel for the next train, but there are exceptions. If it's a holiday or other occasion when a lot of people are travelling, all seats may be sold-out. As each passenger has an assigned car and seat, when all the reservations are gone, anyone else is out of luck. AFAIK, there's no "SRO" on premium trains. I generally prefer to buy tickets the day prior to travel, as that avoids the problem of arriving at the station and finding huge queues at both the ticket office and Kiosks, which could possibly delay my departure.

From what I understand, trains run frequently -- every half-hour or so -- so if we arrive at the station 30 min before we want to leave, worst case scenario would be maybe waiting an hour?

Not necessarily. Trains on some routes run frequently, but that's not the case on all routes. You can check the TRENITALIA website to determine the frequency and departure times of trains you're planning to use.

Do reserved tickets have to be validated?

No, tickets with compulsory seat reservations do not have to be validated, since they're only valid for ONE specific train, date and departure time.

Is it better to buy round trip tickets for the day trips -- or can we just purchase return tickets when we are ready to return to our base?

In most cases, I prefer to buy round trip tickets for day trips, as that means I don't have to waste time buying tickets for the return trip. However, if the journey will be made on a "premium" train you MUST be sure to use ONLY the train specified on the ticket for the return trip. If the journey will be via Regionale train, you MUST validate the ticket prior to boarding the train. DO NOT validate both tickets at the same time, as they have a "shelf life" once validated (usually about 6 hours).

If luggage is put on racks at the end of a car, is it checked somehow or just left there? I'm not sure I'm comfortable just leaving it.

No, luggage is not "checked". Passengers just find an empty spot on the rack and drop the bag there. If you place bags on the rack, watch them closely. At times the racks can be full, which means that some luggage is left on the floor, somewhat protruding into the aisle. With luggage it's often necessary to adjust to conditions at the time. If the train you're using has compartments, it's sometimes possible to keep larger luggage items with you in the compartment (with smaller carry-on size items on the rack above your seat in the compartment). If the train doesn't have compartments, it's sometimes possible to place larger items in the "A" between the seat backs. You'll have to "play it by ear".

Posted by
15576 posts

If you have tickets for a specific train, then you don't have to validate. If you aren't sure, then validate - it doesn't hurt. The different between trains is speed and number of stops. The regionale (locals) go much slower and make many stops. They are also much cheaper.

If you are traveling at a busy time, then getting to the train station 30 minutes in advance may not work. Last month, I was going from Bologna to Florence on a Friday, mid-afternoon (I thought I'd miss the heavy traffic). I had to wait for about 15 minutes in line to buy the ticket at a machine, mostly because of a couple of tourists who spent a lot of time trying to buy tickets. (If you aren't sure how to use the machine, then just ask the next person in line to help you.) The line for for the ticket counters was much longer. Anyway, the next train was sold out, and the one after that had only 1st class seats left. I spent the extra €€ rather than hang around the station for over two hours, instead of less than one.

Don't worry about collecting your bags before getting off the train. The luggage racks are near the doors. If you are uneasy about leaving bags, bring a bike cable and a small lock.

Posted by
2252 posts

RE NAPLES: We spent a few days in Naples at the end of our trip to Italy last September. Didn't use public transportation so can't speak to that-walked everywhere and didn't get lost once! Besides the (to me) very impressive Archaeological Museum, don't miss Capella Sansevero and two truly awesome works of art: "Veiled Christ" and "Release From Deception".

Posted by
16893 posts

Don't over-worry about the train tickets. You'll be buying many and the procedure and the stations will become familiar. See more rail travel tips under the "All Aboard" heading and see also the Appendix of Rick's Italy book, if you're bringing that.

Both departure and arrival times will be printed on reserved tickets, but if you want to get more info about train schedules before you go, you can preview/print most at the DB site or Trenitalia.com. If you fail to get off at your stop, you'll work it out, especially since you're allowed yourself time to be flexible.

Colosseum tickets can be purchased on the spot, but the ticket lines can be long. You can skip the ticket line if you buy a Roma Pass (sold all over Rome) or buy a Colosseum/Forum/Palatine combo ticket either at the Palatine Hill or online; entry to the Colosseum is not timed.

Posted by
7328 posts

Mary-

Chani's description about long security lines to get into St. Peter's is right. We were there just before Christmas in 2013 and saw the long lines as we were leaving. We actually toured the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel first (definitely get a reservation), and used the "secret" exit to the Sistine Chapel, intended only for tour groups but described in Rick's guidebook, to save ourselves a long walk and a wait in the security lines, and got right into the basilica from there. It's sad that the actions of some destructive people in the past make security screening for a chuch necessary.

Laura mentions the Roma Pass just above. Rick's guidebook also describes this, and if you wind up visiting more than just the Colosseum (which is on the Pass) and the Vatican (which isn't), you can save some time and money. It also covers your bus and metro costs, and comes with a great folding Rome map, so you might consider it.

Restoration work on the Trevi Fountain just started, so it may not be at its viewing best for your visit. Definitely check out the fountains at Piazza Navona and elsewhere, though. The Borghese Gallery was spectacular for the building itself, as well as the art within.

We made Naples a day trip by train from the Sorrento area, then used a taxis to get around. We made a pilgrimage to L' Antica Pizzeria da Michele, but were surprised by the mob at the front door at around 4 PM. They handed out numbers, which were called as tables opened up. It took about 2 hours! After awhile, we walked around the neighborhood (broken glass and furniture, including most of a piano, dumped on the sidewalk) for something to do while waiting for our number to be called. I'm pretty sure we wound up at the exact table where Julia Roberts ate her pizza in Eat, Pray, Love.

We've always carried our Passports in our money belt or neck wallet - you always know where it is!

Posted by
29 posts

Gerri, thanks for the maps/schedule. I'm putting all these bookmarks in my tablet, which I am taking along. Also intend to make hard copies of some of these.

Cyn, still debating about Naples. A part of me really wants to go. My last trip we were there for about 30 minutes at some sort of scenic lookout and then in town about 15 minutes to use some public bathrooms. Looked like it would be a pretty city, but then we drove thru the outskirts and that area was very crowded and seedy. I think my niece was there a few years ago so I will have to ask her. Her mother said Hannah was a bit frightened/overwhelmed by it, and what I've read about it so far has me a bit scared. But I'll have to do some more reading/research and then it will probably come down to whether or not I can talk my husband into it. Fortunately, it's at the end of the trip so maybe I'll feel braver by then. Right now I feel like if I don't go, I'll wish I had later.

Another question about trains. I kind of doubt we'll use a dining car, as our longest trip will be Florence to Naples -- about 3 - 3 1/2 hours, if I remember right -- but if we do, should we take our luggage with us or just leave it? I probably will get a bike cable and lock as someone suggested. The plan is to each have a carry-on and 1 larger suitcase if we can't manage go pack light enough. (I'll probably do a test pack a month before the trip just to see if all of my "necessities" fit. Believe it or not, it will be harder to convince my husband to pack light.)

Posted by
15576 posts

I've never seen a dining car - though there may be some. Expect a snack bar, decent coffee (it's Italy after all) but a very very limited selection of food and drink. Many train stations have cafes with take-out of all kinds, certainly no more expensive than on the train. Or you can get something in town before you get to the station. It is perfectly okay to eat and drink in your seats on the train.

As for Naples, I'm sure there are many great sights. I think anyone who's been to Italy would have trouble naming a town that didn't have many great sights. No matter how hard you try, you won't ever be able to see everything, so relax and plan on enjoying everything you do see without regrets.

Posted by
7328 posts

Hi Mary-as with other large urban areas, Naples definitely has some sketchy parts. Even in parts of downtown, the seediness factor was at the high end of the scale for us, but the Archaeological Museum is fantastic, and it's worth going to Naples for that (and some foldable pizza from a local pizzeria), even if you never return.

These days, most trains seem to come with airplane-style fold-down tray tables in the seatback in front of you, or many seats face an actual table that allows 4 peopel to face each other and have a table in-between. If the seats require reservations, the tables may all be off-limits or already claimed, but you may be able to convert your seating area into your own "dining car."

Posted by
15797 posts

The others have pretty much covered all the info on trains (they're really very easy once you get the hang of them) but no, I've not seen a dining car. Your routes are short enough not to need one anyway so just bring a snack and beverage from a shop at the station and you'll be fine. I don't remember if this was mentioned (long thread) but I'll also advise always buying second-class train tickets as there's not enough difference between those carriages and first-class to warrant any price differences.

We do have a retractable cable - not a huge, heavy one but a deterrent nonetheless - that we secure our bags with when they must be left in the front or rear of the carriage. If it's a really sketchy-looking station, I sometimes stay with them until the doors close and the train starts to move. And don't nap with an unsecured carryon.

Passports: we always leave the originals in the hotel safe and just carry a copy. Neither my husband nor I wear moneybelts as they're just too hot, uncomfortable and hard to access (that last point IS the point of them, I guess). For sightseeing, we have small pouches we pin to the inside of our waistbands for our daily cash and a credit card: virtually invisible and easier for out fingers but no one else's to get to. The bulk of the cash, passports and extra cards stay in the safe. When transferring cities, we also have a slash-proof Pacsafe bag with locking zippers that the most important stuff goes into, and which my husband wears with the strap across the chest (never on a shoulder). It's sort of whatever works for you.

I HIGHLY recommend pre-reserving your tickets for the Vatican Museums. Based on the length of the lines I've seen there, I wouldn't even take the chance. I also would not count on being able to take the 'secret' stairs from the Sistine down to St. Peter's: it's very much up to whatever guard is on duty and what sort of mood they're in whether they'll let you wiggle through without a tour-group badge on. People have been turned away, and it's a 30-minute walk back to the entrance/exit so it's just something to be prepared for. They were checking badges last we were there.

Yes, you need reservations for the Borghese but we only had to be there 30 minutes in advance to pretty much check everything on us, as is mandatory. Great museum, though - we like that one much more than the Vatican for crowd control and the interesting building itself.

A ticket to the Colosseum also includes the Forum and Palatine, and is good for two days with one caveat: you may visit the Colosseum one day, and Forum/Palatine another but not Colosseum combined with either Forum or Palatine, if you want to split up your time. But as you know, they're all right in the same area, and can all be done in one day so you probably wouldn't make two trips anyway. Best thing - if you want to purchase same-day tickets - is to go to the Palatine ticket kiosk a little before the opening hour and buy your tickets there: lines are shortest at that one. Choose or not to see that site while you're there, or just head over the Colosseum.

Posted by
32198 posts

mary,

I'd recommend at least a short visit to Naples if possible. As mentioned in the Guidebooks, Italy becomes more "intense" as one ventures further south, and that's certainly true in Naples. I've heard it described as "gritty" (whatever that means), but the description seems appropriate. It may seem chaotic and unkempt, but for me that's part of the charm.

There are some great sights there, including the Archeological Museum and the Veiled Christ, and of course some great Pizza in the place where it was invented. If you decide to include that in your trip, be sure to read the cautions in the Guidebook on using Taxis and other things to watch out for.

Posted by
4105 posts

Mary,

Naples is the city with the most World Heritage sites. It's not frightening, just different than what we are

used to. Use your money belt and be aware of your surroundings.

There is a card available, much like the Rome Pass

http://www.campaniartecard.it/artecard_Regione.cfm The site is a little tricky, but gives you every

attraction, description and link to website, how to get there, and operating hours.

The one you would want is the 3 day tutta la regione. This gives you access to 2 free sites plus

transportation along the Amalfi coast and in Naples proper. You then get 50% off remaining sites.

If you plan on visiting Pompeii and the Arch. Museum, then the pass pays for itself if you figure in 4 rides on

The Circumvesuvian.

Forgot to give you bus schedules

From Sorrento-Amalfi http://www.sitasudtrasporti.it/public/tpl/campania/5070.pdf

Amalfi-Salerno http://www.theamalficoast.net/orari_sita_bus_timetables.html

Ferry schedule http://www.theamalficoast.net/amalfi/english/amalfi_coast_ferries.html

Posted by
29 posts

Thanks guys

Leaning more and more toward trying to go to Naples for a day -- but I'm thinking it might be easier and more relaxing to take the ferry from Sorrento and avoiding the train station there.

Definitely have to find somewhere to buy a retractable cable or two with locks -- just for my peace of mind with the luggage.

Also think we'll probably leave the passports in our rooms while touring the cities we are staying in. Still undecided about taking them on day trips. My husband is saying that he WILL NOT wear a money belt as it will be too bulky and uncomfortable. That is still under debate. He is pretty heavy, so there is no way it would be noticeable under his jeans. I'm thinking of wearing mine in the small of my back -- will have to try it out and see how difficult it is to bring it to the front to get things out (hopefully won't need to often) and then get it tucked back in.

I know hotels have to take your passport temporarily to register you with local police, but what if you are renting an apartment from an owner? Same thing or do we bypass that?

Posted by
23241 posts

Just a couple of random comments as I believe your best learning is from experience.

...somewhere to buy a retractable cable or two with locks....

Any sporting goods store, bike shop, Wal-mart, etc., will have cable. Get the combo so you don't worry about a key.

....leave the passports in our rooms ....
It is personally preference, but we always carry our passports. Who knows when you may need them.

.... My husband is saying that he WILL NOT wear a money belt ....

Sounds stubborn. But make sure that he is not carrying anything in his pocket that he cannot afford to lose. And you don't wear a money belt under your jeans, anyway.

.....I'm thinking of wearing mine in the small of my back -- will have to try it out and see how difficult it is to bring it to the front to get things out (hopefully won't need to often) and then get it tucked back in......

That is the proper way to wear a money belt. And you NEVER, NEVER,NEVER EVER bring to the front to get something out unless you are in a bathroom stall or your room.

....I know hotels have to take your passport temporarily to register you with local police, but what if you are renting an apartment from an owner?....

If it is a legal rental they will ask for your passport, probably prior to your arrival.

Posted by
29 posts

I thought you were SUPPOSED to wear a money belt around your waist, under your jeans/slacks -- front, back, or side - wherever it's comfortable. And if you need to get something out -- more cash or credit/debit card when in a store or at a ticket booth, how do you avoid getting into it then? Guess we'll just have to make sure we have enough cash for the day and one debit card in an accessible (for us) place. My husband plans on carrying his cash, debit card, and driver's license in his front pocket (no wallet) -- but no way the passport will fit there.

Our rentals are thru AirBnB, so I'm not worried about them being legit -- but since we won't see our "landlords" til we arrive in town, there's no way they'll have access to the passports before then unless we email a copy. Don't know if that's a good idea or not. Will have to look into it if it comes to that.

Posted by
7328 posts

One of us prefers a neck wallet with a cord that goes around your neck, and the wallet hangs inside your blouse, and the other (not heavy) puts the money belt down the front of his pants, for access in a discreet place when needed. Different approaches work for different people. Your husband might get a money belt and try it a home for a day or two to see if there's a workable technique for him, but having and using one has been a Golden Rule for us.

When you check in, your landlord may just need to see your passports and complete some paperwork when they hand you your keys.

Posted by
32198 posts

I'm thinking of wearing mine in the small of my back..... That is the proper way to wear a money belt.

That's not a method I advocate or will ever use. I've seen people wearing the Money Belt in the back and especially during hot weather with only very light clothing, the Belt often becomes visible. I prefer keeping the Money Belt in the front, as it's much less likely to be pilfered in a location where I can see it. Of course, YMMV.....

Posted by
29 posts

I got the idea for the small of the back from a packing video by 1 of Rick's guides. It would still be under my jeans, I think. I'll have to try it at home to be sure. It's just that there is a lot less room in the front under tight jeans and I don't want the extra bulge. I'll also try the around the neck under the shirt thing, but I think it would show under most of my shirts -- basically knit t-shirts and tank tops. I'll have to try wearing the different methods around home - loaded - for a few hours to see what works best for me. I could put cash and credit cards in my front jeans pocket, but need to figure somewhere to carry the passport.

Posted by
29 posts

I got the idea for the small of the back from a packing video by 1 of Rick's guides. It would still be under my jeans, I think. I'll have to try it at home to be sure. It's just that there is a lot less room in the front under tight jeans and I don't want the extra bulge. I'll also try the around the neck under the shirt thing, but I think it would show under most of my shirts -- basically knit t-shirts and tank tops. I'll have to try wearing the different methods around home - loaded - for a few hours to see what works best for me. I could put cash and credit cards in my front jeans pocket, but need to figure somewhere to carry the passport.

Posted by
23241 posts

Unfortunately a money belt should not be called a money belt because it makes people think it should be worn as a belt. Call it a money pouch. Second a lot people, especially males, wear it outside the shirt, and behind the belt buckle, which provides easy access during the day. That is fine and better than nothing. But, remember, if it is easy for you to get to, then it is easy for someone else. Third, the money belt should be consider like a safety deposit box which stores the most important things. You don't go to your safety deposit box when you want to buy an ice cream cone. Unless it is an emergency you should not need to access the money belt during the day. I carry one credit card, my passport, and a money clip with about fifty Euro or so, in three separate pockets secured with zippers either on my shirt or pants. Everything else is in the money belt. We wear our money belts fairly high above our waist in the small of our backs. Wife's is just below her bra line. Even in the hottest weather we had never had a problem with the belt being seen or obvious. Just back from a week in New York city and wore them each day.

Front pockets are only slightly safer than the rear which means near zero. I would be glad to forward to you a dozen postings from this site where billfolds and money have been taken from deep front pockets of tight jeans and one example from a bra. No one felt a thing.

In all likely hood you will not have any problems regardless of what you do because the majority of tourist do not have any problems. And your husband will say, "See, I told you so." But if you make it just a little more difficult, then the probability is very low. Pickpockets are smart and practiced. They only go after low hang fruit. So climb the tree a bit.

AirBnBs are not necessarily legitimate rentals. The are coming under fire in a lot of areas. Big issue in New York City and I think some action was recent taken in Paris.

Posted by
15576 posts

There's nothing wrong with the Naples train station. If you want to go to the archaeology museum (I loved it), the RS book has a clear, detailed explanation of how to get to the museum using the metro, very easy.

I found it more comfortable to wear the money belt in back than in front. Most of the time, I feel comfortable leaving valuables in the hotel, so I only carry what I need with me for the day, in pockets.

Posted by
1633 posts

Personally, I would pass on Genoa. It is a large harbor/port.

Posted by
29 posts

Spent the morning wearing my money belt. It wasn't fully loaded -- no credit cards or cash -- but I did put in a notebook that is slightly large (thicker) than my passport. I wore the belt just under the waistband of my pants and just to the side of my navel. It was both comfortable and invisible. Anyone wanting to get to it would have to go under my shirt and pants, and possible a belt. I will also be carrying a cross body bag (purse or day bag) that I can put over the area and then keep my arm/hand on (which is what I did the last time I was in Italy and seemed to work well -- of course the only crowd I was in was the tour group) so that is a further obstacle.

I want to try this with other pants that are a tad tighter, but I think this option will work.

Will have to look up Genoa again. Quite some time ago I saw a video that made it look interesting, but at the moment I can't remember why. What about Portafino? Anything worth seeing there or is it just a large ritzy tourist trap?

Posted by
667 posts

speaking of dining cars, I have actually used one! But it was only because of the fact that I got stuck on a really long train from Florence to Salerno (because I was planning on walking up and buying tickets last minute but my friends found out that all were sold out the time we needed to leave, so we had a mad dash to the station for the earlier train haha) across all time that one might think a restaurant might be open in my starting point or destination (like 6-10:30 on a Sunday night maybe?).....it was ok food, but it was like 15 euro for a primi, so it was cost of convenience....we took our small bags with us, since it was just a weekend trip for us....most shorter trips will allow you to eat before or after at some point.....

you will be a pro at trains after like the first day and a half....

Lessen the days in Milan, but make sure you get reservations to see the Last Supper, and maybe spend a couple of those instead in the Lake Como area. 6 also seems like a lot in Florence, perhaps a day or two exploring some tuscan hilltowns such as Orvieto and Volterra instead. You could spend a week or more in Rome, so I'd up the nights there instead of Sorrento. Also, from Sorrento, I've never been to Capri, but my mother-in-law said it is a must see with the blue lagoon.

I carry my passport with my and am absolutely paranoid about protecting my valuables.

Posted by
7737 posts

"Will have to look up Genoa again. Quite some time ago I saw a video that made it look interesting, but at the moment I can't remember why."

A video can be made to make just about any place look interesting. Benefit from the advice of others and take a pass on Genoa.

Posted by
11 posts

Mary,

There is a long list of posts so forgive me if i repeat what some of the others have said. ROME: Get a ROMA PASS. Its 25EURO i think and it gives you access to the rome metro trains and busses for three days. It also counts as your admission toward three museums. That will at least make some things easier. Look on Ricks' Youtube channel for more information and videos on train travel. As a matter of fact, I would say watch his "European Travel Skills" series on youtube. Florence: Make sure to call ahead for tickets. You will see the line of people a hundred yards long that you get to simply get to pass up at the uffizi. Europe through the back door book by RS has sooo much information that will save you time and help you be more confident in your travels.

Posted by
23241 posts

Derek's info on the Roma Pass is out of date. The card is 36E and allows free admission to two museums and discounts for other major museums. There are also some minor or smaller museums that are free outside of two free major museums. And it is good for three days. There is also a Roma Pass 48 hrs for 29E which has one free admission plus the minor museums. AND there is a Roma Card for about 100E that is really a tourist package of hop on/off bus, and a bunch of other stuff. It is a private company card. The Roma Pass is sponsored by the local government.

Posted by
10344 posts

Has anyone in this thread recommended Genoa?
A perfectly ok place, but given all the other choices you have in that part of the country....

Posted by
29 posts

We only have 3 days in Rome and 1 of them will be at the Vatican. Another day will be at the Colosseum and the Forum, and I didn't think the Forum required admission. When we were there before we just walked by it and saw it from the street when we left the Colosseum. Also thought the Pantheon was free. Please correct me if I'm wrong. So is the Roma pass still worthwhile?

Also looked at Genoa again. The Musea del Mar (sp) and Aquarium sound great, as does the Old Town. I don't really care whether or not there is a big museum there. With only 1 day, I'd rather explore the town than walk thru a museum.

Posted by
26 posts

Hi Mary,

I traveled around Italy alone for a month last summer. I spent much of that time in Siena. I highly recommend it as a great side trip from Florence. It is my favorite at night so maybe it is possible for you to get a hotel? You remember the burnt siena Crayola crayon from when you were a kid? At night the buildings really kind of glow that crayon color and the sky turns this rich shade of blue after the sun sets that I haven't ever seen in the states. Have a drink on Il Campo and soak up the awesomeness. By the way, take the bus to Siena. It drops you off much much closer to the city center. But I digress…

My real reason for posting is to offer some advice:

1) Italians (and everything in Italy, including trains) move so much more slowly than Americans so you will have no problem getting on and off trains. I didn't realize how slow it moves the first time I was in Italy because I was on a tour but traveling solo, this will become very obvious. You are American I assume, so you will have very well orchestrated plans. You should have plans for your own sanity but be prepared for them to blow up (mine did several times). There are strikes, ticket offices close for random Saints days, the schedules online may be different than what you see at the station (this only happened one time). Local trains are NEVER on time. It is ok! You will get to where you need to be. I promise!!

2) This is a BIGGIE…. When I was in Sicily I was late getting to the train station and didn't have time to buy bottled water beforehand (Remember how I said Italian plans can go awry …..) It was lunch hour at the station and the cafe was closed. There was no vending machine. The 3 hour local train had no dining car and no place to buy water. For a good 4 hours I had no access to water other than the little bit that was left in my bottle and it was hot. ALWAYS have a couple of spare bottles of water with you just in case you are running late and don't have time to buy at the station or it is not available to you.

3) Learn a little bit of Italian if possible (especially in Naples). I forgot to get my ticket validated once and I apologized profusely in Italian and the woman basically let me off. I think she felt bad for me. Ordering gelato in Italian will also get you a bigger sized serving. I'm not kidding.

In Boca Al Lupo e auguri!! (Good luck and best wishes!)

Posted by
7328 posts

Pantheon is free. It's a church, in addition to being an ancient Roman sight.

Roman Forum requires admission, but it's included in the combo admission for the Colosseum & Palatine Hill . There's also Trajan's Forum in Rome, a separate sight.

Doing a trial run with moneybelt was a good idea, to find what will work for you over there.

Christopher Columbus was from Genoa, but he left it to do some traveling :-)

West of Positano, we were in Sorrento for New Year's 2013.Took a day ferry to Capri, but the sea was too rough that day to get into the Blue Grotto. Still, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast to the east are popular, scenic, and have many charms. Sorrento was a good base from which to visit ancient sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Posted by
11 posts

I personally like the Roma pass because I used the metro a lot and it was a seamless boarding. There are no buying tickets every time u get on. Same thing with the busses. The museum deal is just lagniappe

Posted by
23241 posts

The Forum now requires paid admission. Believe it is included or can be combined with the Colosseum. This was changed a couple years ago and we have not been in Forum since that change.

Posted by
11 posts

When we went to the colosseum the admission included the forum. But the forum did require admission. The Roma pass covers that, I believe. But not totally sure. We had used a guide.

Posted by
29 posts

Thanks everyone.

I do plan to visit Siena as one of the day trips from Florence. Don't know how late we will be there in the evening. We already have an apartment in Florence, so depends on what time the last bus/train goes back. Thanks for the tip on taking the bus.

Also plan on several side trips from Sorrento -- Capri and Pompeii are definites, plus probably a day in Naples. I want to spend a full day or 2 in Sorrento. I fell in love with it during my way too brief 2 hours there a few years ago. The rest we will play by ear. (I think if I only could visit 1 place in Italy, it would be Sorrento and tha Amalfi Coast, followed by Tuscany.)

I have been playing Italian language instruction tapes while I take my shower every morning since sometime in March. If spoken slowly, I can understand quite a bit -- WAY more than I can speak (can't think of the words fast enough) -- but of course Italians don't speak slowly. I have to practice saying 'Parlare lentamente, per favore'. And as Rick says in his book, playing charades can work wonders. I'm sure the Italians who speak English do much better with my language than I do with theirs, but half the fun is trying to communicate. They will probably smile and try not to laugh at my attempts, but I hope they will appreciate the effort.

Posted by
11 posts

The inn bufalito restaurant is great in sorrento :)

Posted by
7328 posts

Mary-k, maybe you'll do better with your Italian language tapes if you wave your hands around in the shower while you speak ;-)

Posted by
52 posts

Re SIena from Florence: well worth a day trip. As others have pointed out, bus is the way to go, but be sure to double check the times and perhaps go for the penultimate rather than last possible bus of the day. The website-
http://www.mega.it/ita/not/sita.htm
shows the last one at 20.30, so you'll be pushing it to have your evening meals in Siena (most restaurants won't open until 7.30pm at the earliest). Taxi for those who miss the bus will be over 100 Euros at that time of night.

Try and get out and see the countryside in Tuscany, rather than just the cites, great as they are. I took a day trip with a company called Slow Days from Florence http://www.slow-days.com/ - it was a few years ago now but such a memorable day.

Passports tend to get kept by the hotel- there is little need to keep them on you while sightseeing. As for carrying cash, there are still many places in Italy which don't accept credit cards- always good to have a few euros on you.

Buon Viaggio!

Posted by
870 posts

I kind of stopped reading after some of the moneybelt discussion, so sorry if repeating/missing.

My moneybelt has the belt loop action, so I loop it in my belt, and it actually does flip over and rests on the front side of my hip directly under jeans/pants. I find it more comfortable than around the waist since there is no "string" touching my body. I know you are not to reveal the moneybelt in public, but I can very easily access it without it being reached by others and I don't have to lift any clothing. It almost looks like I am reaching into my front pocket, but nothing there for others to grab. It works for me, but you do need to wear clothing with belts in order to use it, which again works for me since any jeans/khakis/skirts I wear have belt loops, and I wear belts almost every day (they are part of my accessorizing!).

If your husband is not willing to wear a moneybelt, then insist upon carrying the valuables in yours, and let him have some cash on hand in whatever he chooses to use. And, I am one of those that carries my passport with me at all times.

Posted by
703 posts

My husband didn't want to use a moneybelt either on our recent trip to London & Paris but I bought him one & insisted for my own peace of mind. He complained a little but he did use it. Have a great time on your trip BTW.

Posted by
29 posts

Thanks Maryam. I think my husband may have the wrong idea of what a money belt is and how light and flexible they are. Someday soon I will have to show him the actual belt and talk him into trying it. If he refuses to wear it, I'll probably do as you suggest and carry everything, making mine a little bulkier than I would like, since I'd also be carrying his passport. What I'd like is to split the extra cash so we'd each carry some, each have a credit card and bank card, and each carry our own passport plus a copy of the other one.