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Pienza agriturismo, Lucca, and…Siena?

Hello,

I’m imminently embarking on a couple of weeks in Tuscany. We are booked Orvieto (2 nights), agriturismo near Pienza (5), Lucca (5), and Siena (5).

We need to switch lodging in Siena because I have a knee injury and all the reviews at our place mention the terrible stairs. Walking is great but endless stairs to reach my bed are not. I’m also worried it’s going to be hectic there.

Of course now everywhere is $300 a night. I’m wondering if we should switch the base for those five nights to an alternate quieter, more affordable city. Got any recommendations?

Posted by
269 posts

Hello,
When will you be in Siena? We have been in Siena for almost two weeks now and yes, it is a bit hectic. Not so much with adult tour groups, but with students at this time of the year. Most of the day and early evening, until about 6:00 the main streets (Banchi di Sopra, Via di Citta, Via Delle Terme) are very crowded. This will also be true for the rest of the summer. Once you are off those streets, which is easy to do, it is very pleasant. We have problems with stairs and have always used VRBO or Airbnb to find accommodations. We contact manager and ask questions in regard to our needs specifically how many stairs or do you have an elevator. We have found the replies to be very honest. We also ask if they can provide a better price; and usually this answer is positive.
How will you be travelling in Tuscany? If you have a car your options for accommodations are vast.

Posted by
10 posts

Charlylm: we will be there April 22-27. We currently have two places booked, just waiting to hear back about the stairs at one (I asked a question on Booking). I was mostly wondering if we’d be happier, cheaper, and less crowded if we went to another town entirely and just daytripped to Siena. We are in Dubrovnik this week and have definitely been planning around the cruise ship crowds, and after being packed into Seville a couple of years ago we are slowly waking up to the fact that we like a slow pace and greenery when we travel. We will have a car so if there’s a town you recommend, I’ll take it! Really just need a place big enough to feed us dinner 5x.

Posted by
269 posts

Hello naomirp,

Understand what you mean by cruise ship crowd. You will have some of that during the day in Siena. A few of places that you might want to look at would be Radda in Chianti, Greve in Chianti or even Arezzo. I have done a fast search on Airbnb and found a number of accommodations which appear in your price range. Maybe Roberto or others on the forum, will have other recommendations, but those would be my first recommendations on a short notice. Please keep us informed on you decision and experience. Enjoy!

Posted by
1891 posts

Hello naomirp,

We will be in Italy in May/June for 5 weeks, and we have 3 nights scheduled in Siena. We are staying at the Palazzo Ravizza. You could contact them if you wish. However, I wonder if at this late date they might not have availability. But it's worth a try.

Also, for an alternate quieter place, you could try Pienza. I have not been there, so I don't have firsthand experience. However, a friend of mine loves Pienza and told me in retrospect she wished they had stayed there instead of the city/town they stayed in.

Good luck with your search!

Sorry, I just realized you are already staying in Pienza. Don't know how I missed that.

Posted by
1381 posts

You could look at Arezzo which is across the valley from Siena. As old as Siena but it was never as populated through out history so the historical center is smaller. The area around the train station is modern and then slowly blends with older parts of the city as you head uphill. It has an amazing main piazza - most famous for its use in "Life is Beautiful" - and a lot of other smaller more "people's piazzas" as well.

It is less dramatic as visually stunning as Siena but that also means less tourism and more chances to eat alongside locals. The local government works to bring in lots of activities and events so it might be worth checking our what is going on while you might be there. Huge antiques fair as well once a month.

It's connected by train to Florence, is close to Cortona and Chiusi for a day trips - although both of those are train then bus because the train stations are on the flat - and is just over an hour from Siena by bus.

Arezzo seems to have little eat and drink places on every alley way between the big streets that head up the hill. Places like Antica Osteria dell ‘Agania, and Antica Osteria dell ‘Agania are good and traditional. very near the piazza is Antica Bottega Toscana which has the real deal in terms of local produce - cheese still wrapped in hay or seeds - and is very much worth a look. They serve wine by the glass as well eats that go with wine as well.

In Lucca there are many good restaurants - nearly any "famous" restaurant - Osteria dal Manzo, Giglio - will probably require reservations a few days ahead. Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is beautiful and worth wandering through at night but is for tourists not locals. If you want to make that scene Sotto Sotto has the respect of the locals so I'd eat there.
I like Rosticceria Da Nonna Tati on the tiny Via Santa Zita - next to the laundromat in an old bakery location. They are doing new things with Italian food, but not crazy, and it's all really good but unusual given the adherence to "nonna's kitchen" in Tuscany.

Best sandwich place: Ciacco on P.za Napoleone. Also salads as big as your head - not kidding - excellent cicchetti as well.
Second best sandwch place - very different sandwiches - Pan di strada - Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi
Both places have excellent Cicchetti as well

Best gelato; Ele (formally De' Coltelli) and Momo in either location. There are other good places but these are the best - ele for wacky combos and amazing fruit flavors.

Best local pizza experience - Pizzeria da Felice - always packed and spilling into the street outside with little quarter given to tourists. Run the way it always has been with pizza and cecina sold by weight. Try the cecina with the pepper when offered.
Probably better pizza but less of an experience is Itaco across town.

Cheaper local wine store: Vini e Liquori di Ugo Massei Via Sant'Andrea, 19 - owner only speaks Italian.

There are musical performances every night ranging from free to expensive opera all over town. Check the various websites but also look at the fliers around town. The Grapevine magazine calendar is a good place to start: https://www.luccagrapevine.com/
Example schedule: https://www.luccagrapevine.com/february2025/WO.pdf
https://eventi.turismo.lucca.it/en/

Hope that helps, have a great trip,
=Tod

Posted by
3655 posts

Hiredman’s detailed entry about Arezzo reminded me of our stay there many years ago, before my knee replacement. (I feel your pain.). It might suit your needs.
1st of all, it’s pretty flat. We stayed just outside the town, a few minutes drive away. There is a parking lot immediately outside the walled old section.
The art of Piero della Francesco is one of the greatest attractions of the town. Examples can be seen in the cathedral, the basilica of S. Francesco, and in the art museum.

There are some smaller, attractive villages nearby. Anghiari is one that springs to mind. Montarchi also has what is reputed to be the only painting of a pregnant Virgin Mary, the “Madonna del Parto.”

Posted by
2184 posts

We loved staying at Agriturismo Castello di Laura di Spedaletto da Laura. It is close to Pienza which I find charming and quite flat. I use a walker and was able to walk all over Pienza.

Posted by
10 posts

Thanks everyone for the tips! We found a place in Siena with an elevator and parking, but still walkable and closer to green space. High hopes!

Hiredman: Thanks for all the food advice. I’ll definitely check out Pizzeria da Felice—Felice is my grandfather’s, dad’s and brother’s name!

Posted by
269 posts

Wonderful news. You will find many places to enjoy a great meal or just sit, have a drink and people watch. One of our favorite places for lunch or dinner is Osteria IL Palchetto 25/27 on Via de Porrione. For a panini our favorite is Panini IL Cencio right on IL Campo. If you have any specific questions, please send me a PM I would be happy to help. Glad you will be able to enjoy Siena, our second home.