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Piedmont advice

Hello all!

Thanks very much for any advice you can offer. My girlfriend and I are flying into Bologna, and my tentative schedule would give us five nights in Piedmont. I could bring it to a sixth if I sacrificed a night elsewhere in our 16-night trip to Italy. What I've learned so far leads me to think Alba is a good base for five nights, but I'd like to be greedy and spend some time in Courmayeur. We will have a car.

I would appreciate help with these questions:

-Is two nights in Courmayeur and three nights in Alba a silly idea? The next stop would be Florence, and I can be content with five nights in Alba if I'm asking too much of my time.
-How big of a mistake is avoiding Turin? Coming from industrial Bologna (also just went last year), I could skip it.
-I've checked a fair amount into wine tour/vineyard visit options around Alba, and I've failed to find a great option. We can't afford a private tour, I'd like to avoid driving and buses appear infrequent. Has anyone found the silver bullet to drink at vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco?

Much appreciated. Cheers!

Posted by
3812 posts

Turin is nicknamed "the small Paris" and has a square road grid laid down by the Romans. Bologna is "the fat, red Lady" and has a round medieval historic center almost intact. Except for the porticoes you picked two nice, but different cities.

As you'll have a car, note that all the places where you are going to drive have a camera controlled ZTL area.
There is a direct train from Bologna to Turin and another one from Turin to Alba, that has 2 car rental agencies!

Posted by
1090 posts

Italianna is a tour provider who has been on my list to try when I return, but I have to be clear that I haven't taken any of her tours yet. Her website says she can group people with others for a small group tour, so it's worth asking even though it looks like mostly private tours. I've followed her blog for a number of years, she seems both very knowledgeable and friendly. A few years ago, there were HOHO bus tours from Alba with various routes through the region, but it appears they've been discontinued.

I sympathize with you. The day tour I did through the Langhe was with a number of friends in 3 cars. We made multiple stops, but I was driving so I didn't get to taste any until the last stop at the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo. We were staying in the town for dinner, so I allowed myself a little taste. It was a beautiful and fun drive, but not driving is the better option.

Well, my choice would be to skip Courmayeur for Turin and Val di Susa. Try Avigliana or elsewhere in the Italian Alps west of Turin and do a day trip into the city. I would stay in Piedmont as there is so much to see and do. The Langhe wine region, Turin, the mountains, the northern lakes...I'm not done with Piedmont yet. But I do think you don't need to spend 5 nights in Alba.

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you both. Nelly, how would you set up five nights in Piedmont rather than base in Alba? Much appreciated!

Posted by
1814 posts

Turin has some great attraction, but you don't need to stay there. The Egyptian Museum and the Royal Palace / Royal Museum are fascinating. On the outskirts is the Royal 'Hunting Lodge' of Stupinigi that is mind blowing. Alba's not a bad place to stay but it's a little away from many good attractions like Stafford Abbey and it also attracts a lot of tourists. I sent you a PM with a description of the trip we did.

Posted by
5 posts

Hey, thanks very much Mike. That's good to know about Turin - I was looking at it as a visit rather than a home base. Also, interesting about Alba. I'm so torn!

Posted by
11839 posts

We spent three nights in Bra last year, just down the road from Alba. Very much untouristed, at least in October. I would recommend Alba to most people as it is livelier. It is hard to do wine touring without a guide. You might check this site, PiemonteMio for resource and possible tour groups, or just stop by the TI when you arrive to get ideas.

We love Torino for its architecture, food, general vibe. HIghly recommend the National Museum of the Automobile as well as the Egyptian Museum. There are many fine palazzi of the Savoy family, too.

Posted by
5 posts

Thanks Laurel - that's really helpful. I think I'm settled on Alba as a good base for at least part of it. Just debating now whether to spend at least two nights elsewhere. I'd be OK without a tour, as long as I can find reliable transportation between vineyards. That would probably fit better within my budget anyway.

Posted by
1090 posts

I think I would recommend Turin as your other base, since you'll be in the countryside when you’re in Alba. 3 nights each would be good. I don’t know how you could get bored in Turin, but if you want any excursions out of town, I also suggest Stupinigi or Venaria Reale palaces, or a quick run out to Sacra San Michele (1/2 hour by train, then a taxi to the mountaintop monastery.)

Whatever you decide, it will be terrific. Piedmont's my favorite region so far - more regions to explore, but I keep squeezing a bit of Piedmont into each trip. The food and wine are outstanding. Have a great trip.

Posted by
10403 posts

Courmayeur is Valle d'Aosta and far from Turin. It's just a totally different thing from going to Piedmont. Requires at least one change of trains so far as I know.

I'm not sure how you're going to visit vineyards without driving in the Langhe. These kind of rural places, you really need a car. I personally would stay in a smaller place like La Morra or Serralunga d'Alba and go in and out from there, but that's me. It adds to your travel time to/from other villages, but it's so much more charming to be in one of these small places out in the countryside (IMHO).

Posted by
1090 posts

I agree with Laurel about preferring to stay in the smaller villages, but you seemed set on Alba so I didn't want to dissuade you. On our driving tour, we stopped briefly in Alba but decided to move on quickly. I think it might be different for an overnight - a bit more going on for an evening passeggiata, and more restaurant selections, However, La Morra, Neive, or Cherasco are some great smaller choices in the area.

Still plugging Turin for a city break...

Posted by
5 posts

Nelly, you've convinced me on Turin. I'll check out the smaller cities you mentioned, too. I guess I just got set on Alba without giving too much thought. I appreciate the advice!