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Palio di Siena questions

Hello all,

My wife and I are considering Siena for 2 nights of our 8 night trip through Italy. The 2 nights we have available for this option are June 30 and July 1 which is just before the Palio di Siena on July 2. Can anyone tell us about he horse race from their personal experience? How will this change the city and our normal tourist plans? Should we consider just doing Florence instead or is this an event that would be a great experience? Any comments, advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by
1046 posts

The entire week before the Palio is a series of dress rehearsals. The bands, the flags, the horses, the costumes are food for stories years from now. And, until the actual race, the crowds are so much more manageable! But get your reservations for lodging in NOW! Enjoy!!!!

Posted by
30 posts

What will the city be like during 2 days before the main event? Would we still be able to do any of the usual Siena sight seeing or is it better to immerse ourselves in the race preparations?

Posted by
80 posts

Hi, we went to one practice day in 2013 (I think it was June 30), and we loved it so much that we're planning this year's Italy trip around Siena again! We'll be there on July 1- not brave enough to actually be in the crush on the day of the Palio, but we really loved everything about it, and we're looking forward to the experience again. Good luck!

In 2013, we explored a lot of Siena after the morning practice session, so I think it's possible to do both.

Robert in Montreal

Posted by
7042 posts

I was there the day before the Palio about 20 years ago and what I remember is the air of excitement (kind of like Times Square a couple of hours before midnite) and how colorful it was with all the flags flying. I bought a scarf with the symbol of one of the contradas on it as a souvenir and I still have it - it's the seashell one. We were only there for the day but we were able to see all the normal tourist sights - crowded but not cringe worthy. We did not see a practice run but I would have loved that.

Posted by
30 posts

Does anyone have a recommendation for a place to stay? I realize many places will be full by now. I'd also like to hear opinions on staying near the town center vs edge of town possibly with a view of the countryside. I've seen some places "just outside" Siena as well. Are these viable places to stay for a couple without a car?

Posted by
31 posts

We fell in love with Hotel Santa Caterina which is just outside the walls with gorgeous views of the countryside. Siena is fabulous; you can't go wrong! But I agree with fellow posters; book now!

Posted by
243 posts

We were in Siena for the Palio two years ago. I was absolutely wonderful. We were able to go to "regular" tourist sites in the morning and early afternoon before the Palio events began. To answer your question, their is an excitement in the air similar to an American city hosting a professional sporting playoff game. I really do not understand the fear of going to the Palio. I am sure that most people have attended a professional sporting event or major concert in the US. There are a bunch people and there may be pickpockets in the crowds. the only difference is this event is free and it has been taking placing for several centuries.

Try to change your plans so that you can actually be there on race day of the Palio.

Posted by
30 posts

There's no fear of the Palio. Only questions of what it is like and what to expect for staying in Siena during it.
Any recommendations on what to be a part of in the two days before or what to avoid?

Posted by
1054 posts

I was in Siena August 2014 for the Palio and I'm planning to return in 2017. We spent 4 days there for the race a loved it. Go to Siena during your trip.

You can access any sights in the town on those 2 days before the race just like any normal tourist day.

Twice a day they do practice trails that you can go watch for free in the Campo. They do a dress rehearsal the day before which I would say go to that trail when you are in town. I forgot the times of the trails, you can always ask your hotel staff or check the palio website as it gets closer. You may encounter small parades of the contrada (neighborhoods) walking around the streets singing which is nice to see. Also each contrada does a big outdoor dinner, (like a giant block party) the night before the race. You can get tickets for those dinners. I did one and it was amazing. Felt like we were part of the group when we left, and we had a horse to cheer on for the palio. CAn't wait to go back for 2017 Race !!!

After I was there in 2014, I discovered a few years before Kenny Mayne did a piece on the Palio for ESPN. It's actually pretty good and you can get a feel here for the days before the race. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GYvns0ejV4

Posted by
243 posts

I did not intend to imply that you had any fear of attending the Palio, but my experience when I posed similar questions on this site almost had me convinced not to attend.

As far as what it like: We stayed 10K north of Siena and drove to Siena on the day of the Palio. We had no problems finding parking about 11 am at the train station on the northwest side of Siena. It should be noted that you would want to know exactly where the parking lot is so that you do not inadvertently drive through a ZTL. The walk was at least one kilometer and probably a bit longer to get to il Campo.

We spent the morning and early afternoon going to Cathedral and art museum and talking to locals about the Palio. As far as i could see, sights and shops were not closed. Mid afternoon the contrada paraded through the streets. Each contrada features flag bearers, drummers, archers or sword/pike bearers. The entourage is a group of about 10 people dressed in Renaissance costume. This is followed by people or supporters of the contrada with their silk kerchiefs usually singing what I assume is a song of the contrada. This is repeated with each contrada. Each contrada group stops for a Renaissance flag throwing ceremony.
About 5 pm there is a huge parade (~100-200 people) of all contrada and what appeared to be people who symbolized town officials and the church (all in Renaissance costume). This parade leads to the Il Campo where the race is held. Free admission to the inside of the piazza, the line was large, but moved quickly and we had plenty of space to stretch out before the race.
This event is not to be missed. It is something that is truly a local custom/event that cannot be seen anywhere else and probably one of the most memorable things I have done in Europe.